Hi ya’ll. My two girls are 4’ tall in a 3x3x6’ tent. Burn marks are appearing on the upper 1/3 of them. I cannot raise these lights higher. I received my Atreum lights the other day. I can dim them. Should I swap the lights? Still have til early December to complete this grow. I HAVE placed parchment paper under my non dimable LED’s. I could place another layer of parchment also. What do all you professionals think? Thank you.
Switch lights 3 weeks into flower?
- Thread starter Finnicki
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If possible you need to do some LST, i.e., bend the plans down to get them away from the light. Hopefully the "stretch" will be over soon. Dimmable lights might help. Be careful of fire with the parchment paper! Also that kind of a barrier will block a lot of the light wavelengths that your plants need.
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Looking at the plants, I don't think you'll get more than a few inches more in height, they look to have done most of the "Stretch". Good looking plants!
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I have both new LED lights in tent now. Temp inside has dropped to 70 from 75 and humidity has go up to 50%. I stopped the dehumidifier overnight in the basement, not just in the grow room. How do you believe the plants have stooped their ‘stretch’? I have the lights at 50 or 1/2 their full wattage.
My guess would be that @Phytoplankton is looking at the size of the buds and that the distance between nodes has decreased a lot.
Can you get a close-up photo or two of the burn marks that have started to appear?
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Doesn't look like light burn, looks like nute burn. The leaves are pretty dark, might cut back on your Nitrogen a little and maybe increase the P&K, also don't forget the calmag.
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Seems that 8oz of Bloom is for one cubic yard of growing medium. And there is no way I have a container that is 3’x3’x3’ for the girls. I have a 7 gal airpot that isn’t even full of soil. So less is needed. I watered them tonight and forgot the CalMag. I won’t water them now til Tuesday am. Will try to remember then. Just lay off the edibles til then...
I am thinking that all the yellow along the edges of the fan leaves, especially in the first of those two photos, is a good sign that more Potassium (the 'K' in the marco nutrients listed on the front of just about every package of fertilizer) is needed.
If someone has the charts that show the way nutrient deficiencies look on the Marijuana leaves maybe they can post it.
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So I searched online ( it’s safe right, gospel truths spoken here ) & found that banana peels will do. I sliced up one side o’peel and put several small pieces atop the soil in both pots. I’ll water with CalMag in am. How soon might I see results? Thanks for the tips.
There are several. One is Langbeinite (0-0-22 approx.). The other is Kelp Meal (1-0-2 approx.) from Ascophyllum Nodosum and not just any plain old seaweed. Either or both can be used as an ingredient when mixing up a batch of soil or added in at the last minute when filling a pot before the last transplanting.
The Langbeinite will be water soluble and provides the Potash plus Magnesium and Sulfur. I have a bag of this from Down To Earth but it has not been opened. Squeezing the bag feels like it is finely ground up, almost like a flour. The Kelp Meal provides pretty much a mild dose of Potassium and is ground up dried seaweed. The Kelp is available from several companies, is often rated as Organic and can be sold in a dry form or a liquid concentrate.
I do on-line searches all the time. It what lead me to this web-site. Look up "Kelp Meal Tea" and one of the top results should be a link to a Kelp tea recipe from Build-A-Soil. Then do an 'Advanced Search' here for "Kelp Meal Tea" or "Coot's Kelp Meal Tea" but the thread I am thinking is the best for the current discussion is this one:
https://www.420magazine.com/community/threads/instant-kelp-meal-tea.498339/#post-5269044
The tea in the thread means grinding up the Kelp Meal even more than Down To Earth or MaxiCrop does for their product. Either can be used to make a tea but I settled on the basic method recommended in the thread linked above. I grind up a cup's worth at a time of dried Kelp in a small kitchen grinding appliance and store it in a canning jar. Then when wanted I put two tablespoons into a gallon jug and add water leaving a inch or so of head-space which makes for better mixing. I let the jug sit overnight with occasional shaking. Recommend keeping it in the kitchen, bathroom or any place where you will walk by it often enough to notice it is there so you can shake the jug.
@bobrown14 pitched in with suggestions, etc in the thread mentioned above.
There are liquid concentrate products (usually 0-0-2 or 1-0-2) made from Kelp Meal. They are easy to use; just add a tablespoon or so of the stuff to a gallon of water and shake then water. This is the easiest to use, relatively inexpensive, and no waiting overnight, etc. If you are not happy it can be mixed up and used to water potted flowers on the patio, etc or given to another gardener.
There are several threads on the use of banana peels, usually as an ingredient in a tea, on this 420magazine message board. In order to get the Potassium from the peels more time is needed than just putting it into a tea mix or on top of the soil. @Emilya played around with several tea recipes several years ago and I have either read or skimmed through every one of them at one time or another. Last I remember is that she recommends banana peels be mixed into a fermenting sort of tea instead of a standard sort of brewing organic tea. Maybe try the 'Advanced Search' function here for Banana Peel Tea and using her name in the appropriate field.
Very possibly there can be a decrease in the yellow edges on the fingers of the leaves and better overall green color returning to the plant in a week to 10 days. I am saving a plant with the same sort of problem right now and that is the time frame I have noticed. The Kelp Meal mixture is mild enough that some growers will use it on a weekly or bi-weekly basis.
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Not worried about ink. I have plenty of electrons left and more show up constantly from the electric company.
Yes, a weakened plant is not as productive. Will the gardener notice, maybe not unless it is really bad.
Possible. Add finding several versions of Mulder's Chart to your list of things to do, along with the charts that show how plant leaves look when there are nutrient deficiencies and excesses. The Mulder's Charts show the interaction between the macro-nutrients and the micro-nutrients.
All the versions of the charts I have on the hard-drive show that excess Nitrogen will have an effect on the Potassium so I figure that contributed to the problem.
Incidentally, I think that cell phones are not the best way to look at these charts since they need to be somewhat large to see what they are showing. Letting you know so you can be prepared in case you have to use a cell to access the internet.
The Cannabis plant is such a heavy feeder once it goes into flower that many plants grown in pots show deficiencies unless that container is really large, like 15 gallons and larger and the grower works at it.
But, I have seen some of the growers show photos of their plants at the last week or so before harvest and everything is green.
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I have kelp meal coming tomorrow. Friday am would be the first chance to apply. I go online with my iPhone. Quicker. Only use pc to play with the photographs. Make the fish look bigger and the pot plants larger.
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