Supercropping - a tutorial

Smokin Moose

Fallen Cannabis Warrior & Ex Moderator
Supercropping is a term given to a group of techniques that, when used in conjunction, will produce greatly improved yields over untreated plants. Various methods can be used when supercropping, and they are outlined below.
You can use one or all methods of supercropping, modified to your individual needs. The end result is an increased yield.

Crimping
Crimping is an advanced technique whereby you break the inner herd of the plant without damaging the outer, which is where all the plants strength comes from. Break open the stalk of a cannabis plant and you'll notice immediately the hard, outer herd. This is where textiles come from. The soft inner, lighter colored material is pure cellulose - the phloem and xylem.

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In vascular plants, phloem is the living tissue that carries organic nutrients, particularly sucrose, a sugar, to all parts of the plant where needed. In trees, the phloem is the innermost layer of the bark, hence the name, derived from the Greek word φλοιος (phloios) for "bark". The phloem is mainly concerned with the transport of glucose and starch made during photosynthesis.

The plant passes water and nutrients cell to cell through this network of cellulose. Breaking the plant's inner walls will cause it to rebuild. But it rebuilds these networks better than they were before; it rebuilds so fast (under good growth conditions) that 24 hours later the plant is using the new highways and it's increased capacity for moving water and nutrients.

This technique can begin as early as the seedling stage. Twisting the plant gently, using both hands so you don't pull on it's roots. Work each of the plants branches every 2", up to once week. Do this by grasping the spot to be treated with two fingers of each hand. Use one hand to stabilize, while the other gently, slowly twists. Or you can twist with both hands in opposite directions, slowly until you feel a slight snap. When the plant's get heartier you will actually be able to hear it.
On smaller branches, you do not need to twist, as firm finger pressure will rupture the herd.

BENDING
Plants naturally bend towards the light. They do this for their benefit, trying to better get into position to receive more light. Why wait for plants to evolve, use your smarts to bend plants into positions that are beneficial. Bending the tip of a branch over into a position where there's no vegetation will speed growth for 2 reasons:

First the branch tip you moved is now getting more unobstructed light by moving it to an area free of vegetation. Second, the area you moved the branch away from is also receiving more light than before. So those parts of the plant also benefit from the move. Potential for growth is increased.

TYING
Forceful confinement or the use of string, twist-ties or a brace of some kind may be required to keep bent branches from simply growing back to their original position. Massage the bending point of the branch with the fingers of one hand while slowly bending -- only intuition will tell you when you've reached the breaking point. Some branches don't have a breaking point, you can tie them in a knot a they'll still grow. Others will snap as soon as you try to bend them. It will take practice and a few broken branches before you learn how far, if at all, any given branch can be manipulated.


TOPPING
Never top an unhealthy plant. Topping is a simple technique of cutting the tip or top of a branch off using sharp scissors. It doesn't matter if it's the main(stem) top or the tip of a side shoot, the resulting effect will be the same. Instead of one top or tip resulting in a single bud, the treated shoot splits and produces 2 or more tips.

It is debatable whether or not this practice will actually increase or decrease the size of buds or overall yield. A healthy plant generally thrives under careful stressing and physical manipulation. This is not something you want to overdue, start slowly and increase the frequency and intensity of your pruning practices over consecutive crop cycles. Gain some experience so you can recognize when you have overdone it.
 
Good info here, I never knew you did it every so often on the plant, thought it was just at the bottom.
 
makes a big diference ,yeild is increased big time.been doing it myself for over 10 years ,an i preach it to my fellow growers here in NS.theyb say the same,big buds!!!!!
 
very interesting, ill do it for shure but i just want to know if i do it during vegetation or at the start of the flowering ? thanks in advance
 
Has anyone compared supercropping to lsting? I've tried lsting and it works great, but I am going to try SC instead. Seems like it would be a lot easier than lsting. I'm constantly adjusting the lines i use so i spend a lot of time on it. Looks like this would do the same job with a lot less work. Plus you don't have to worry about the lines getting in the way of bud growth when in flowering.
 
makes a big diference ,yeild is increased big time.been doing it myself for over 10 years ,an i preach it to my fellow growers here in NS.theyb say the same,big buds!!!!!
I agree, but there are those out there that say it makes no difference, and that a plant will produce a certain amount, no matter what. But i think that's a crock, especially inside !! More light penetration, more bud !!:popcorn:
 
Last grow , I used a modified LST method where I Pulled down and over as many of the branches as I could, keeping them down with bent coat hangers(smart pots). This did produce some massive buds . This grow I have supper cropped, my growing buddy came over and we whacked away about 40-50 % of each plant, all above the second nodes.He(long, long time grower) claims that with 14-21 days they will have grown back with double or more branches and growth, and if I need or want to, I can do that again... and then go right into 12/12.. I will let ya know later!

I wanted to train them to all grow around the pots, but that didn't happen, they got to huge to remain in that small of an area(7 gallon) I did keep them low and bushy and am looking forward to this grow.. I do expect double my last yield!
 
That's a very important tutorial. Thank you.
 
I'm so impressed with this site. Until a month ago, I never used a computer until I needed to be educated a little on growing, found this site and.....Ta Da! Now I spend every possible second reading, asking questions, and educating myself from all of the brilliant people here. I appreciate the courtesy here also along with the people. I cannot say the same for a few other"Education sites" on the same subject! All I got was a bunch of arrogant assholes and know it all's refusing to share info with a noobie like myself....Thank you to everyone here and now I think I'm ready to get my grow on!!!
 
Ha this poped up under my subscribed threads, read the entire first post, then shortly realized I have already ready it. . .
 
Just checked the mail and YAY!!! Got my seeds finally. I'm within a week or so of setup so everyone wish me luck....I will keep posting when I start..........
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, but stabbing the stem above each node will cause the plant to push out more resin in a last attempt to collect pollen from a male before it dies. I've also heard of tearing the stalk in certain places as well, but am not very familiar with how exactly to go about it... I was told these are also considered super-cropping techniques, but don't quote me on that.
 
I agree, but there are those out there that say it makes no difference, and that a plant will produce a certain amount, no matter what. But i think that's a crock, especially inside !! More light penetration, more bud !!:popcorn:

Right on Slowpuffer. It only makes sense that the more tops exposed to the light without upper buds and leaves getting in the way the bigger the yield. Also knuckles form at the bends and are reservoirs for extra water and nutrients. If you think a plant will produce a predetermined amount then you would be missing out on all the ways to maximize your yield. Get the plants as close to the light as possible and this is one way to do it.
 
If you don't use any techniques to improve yield the marijuana plant has no choice but to yield a certain amount. I have used all the techniques and found that yield is increased. If you let a pumpkin plant do it's own thing it will basically produce a certain size pumpkin, but as we all know a 750 pound pumpkin is far more of a yield than if left it alone. Use the different techniques like supercropping, bending, tying, topping or femming to compare with a plant you just let grow like a Christmas and I guarantee you will see the difference. Of, course any of these techniques can be researched so anybody who says they don't work haven't done it.
 
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