Thank you! This is very helpful to see how this is being done.I'll just toot my own horn here 'cus the pic is fresh!
Not strictly supercropping in the way Shed has defined here (I pinched, but didn't bend), but the resulting structure - the knot/knuckle - is the same:
Hows & Whys Of Supercropping
- Thread starter InTheShed
- Start date
little kitten
Well-Known Member
Beautiful!!!!!Anyone interested in a bit on supercropping? Here is my introduction to the technique. I don't deal so much on the actual way to perform a supercrop, but the reasons and places to do it:
DISCLAIMER: This is high stress plant training and I do not recommend it for an autoflower plant. Not that you won't see people do it to theirs, I just don't recommend it. It definitely slows down the plant while it recovers.
Supercropping is a technique where you bend the stem at something close to a 90º angle, snapping the internal fibers of the plant in the process. It can be done in flower, though it's usually performed in veg. There are loads of videos on how to do it so I won't go into a detailed description. Generally, you squeeze the stem where you want the bend to be until you feel the plant's tissue give way, and then lay the upper part of the branch over at a right angle.
With thinner or woodier stems that are harder to crush, I rock them back and forth over my thumbnail until they soften enough to lay over.
The stem eventually forms a "knuckle" at the bend, and it increases the nutrient pathways to the top part of that branch. That's not usually why we do it, but it's another positive result. And if done early in flower (like at the end of stretch when you know who are the leaders), it can result in larger buds on that branch.
Now let's talk about why we supercrop our plants. The traditional reason is that it keeps the plant canopy level, making all your potential bud-sites the same distance from the lights. In this instance, the leaders are bent at the level of the rest of the canopy, usually toward the outside edge of the tent so as not to cover lower growth.
But there are other reasons to use this technique, for both indoor and outdoor growers (who don't need a level canopy).
Besides leveling the canopy, here are two additional reasons to supercrop.
First, to greatly increase the number of bud-sites. Every time you flatten a branch, everything that would have been larf can now become a new top. Here is where I bent an AK-47 branch:
And here is how many new tops were created by that one bend:
All of that lower growth will now head directly toward the light.
[Note that when you are thinning your undergrowth, keep the supercrop option in mind. If you strip everything underneath there will be no shoots to grow new tops. So if you plan on supercropping, thin with the future in mind.]
And second, supercropping to make room for other supercropping! In this example I bent branch that has no lower branches to grow up, but I've bent it away to clear room to bend a different branch that does have lower branches that I want to expose. (Read the boxes in numbered order so it makes sense.):
If I had just bent the top branch it would have covered the bud-sites on the lower branch, so I bent that out of the way first.
And I will often bend a branch into the middle of a plant so the plant doesn't get too wide, as long as there is an empty spot to fill in, or some weak growth below you will be pruning at some point anyway. You can see an example of that here:
Top left was supercropped inward to keep it within the existing outer circle of the plant, and middle left was cropped outward to fill in the space.
One last trick, for those crops that refuse to stay down, attach a small binder clip to a paper clip and hang that from the branch (you can just make out the paper clip at the arrow):
Two final pics. This is an AK-47 where I used all these techniques:
6.3 ounces and Plant of the Month!
Questions welcome.
little kitten
Well-Known Member
Very good read!Anyone interested in a bit on supercropping? Here is my introduction to the technique. I don't deal so much on the actual way to perform a supercrop, but the reasons and places to do it:
DISCLAIMER: This is high stress plant training and I do not recommend it for an autoflower plant. Not that you won't see people do it to theirs, I just don't recommend it. It definitely slows down the plant while it recovers.
Supercropping is a technique where you bend the stem at something close to a 90º angle, snapping the internal fibers of the plant in the process. It can be done in flower, though it's usually performed in veg. There are loads of videos on how to do it so I won't go into a detailed description. Generally, you squeeze the stem where you want the bend to be until you feel the plant's tissue give way, and then lay the upper part of the branch over at a right angle.
With thinner or woodier stems that are harder to crush, I rock them back and forth over my thumbnail until they soften enough to lay over.
The stem eventually forms a "knuckle" at the bend, and it increases the nutrient pathways to the top part of that branch. That's not usually why we do it, but it's another positive result. And if done early in flower (like at the end of stretch when you know who are the leaders), it can result in larger buds on that branch.
Now let's talk about why we supercrop our plants. The traditional reason is that it keeps the plant canopy level, making all your potential bud-sites the same distance from the lights. In this instance, the leaders are bent at the level of the rest of the canopy, usually toward the outside edge of the tent so as not to cover lower growth.
But there are other reasons to use this technique, for both indoor and outdoor growers (who don't need a level canopy).
Besides leveling the canopy, here are two additional reasons to supercrop.
First, to greatly increase the number of bud-sites. Every time you flatten a branch, everything that would have been larf can now become a new top. Here is where I bent an AK-47 branch:
And here is how many new tops were created by that one bend:
All of that lower growth will now head directly toward the light.
[Note that when you are thinning your undergrowth, keep the supercrop option in mind. If you strip everything underneath there will be no shoots to grow new tops. So if you plan on supercropping, thin with the future in mind.]
And second, supercropping to make room for other supercropping! In this example I bent branch that has no lower branches to grow up, but I've bent it away to clear room to bend a different branch that does have lower branches that I want to expose. (Read the boxes in numbered order so it makes sense.):
If I had just bent the top branch it would have covered the bud-sites on the lower branch, so I bent that out of the way first.
And I will often bend a branch into the middle of a plant so the plant doesn't get too wide, as long as there is an empty spot to fill in, or some weak growth below you will be pruning at some point anyway. You can see an example of that here:
Top left was supercropped inward to keep it within the existing outer circle of the plant, and middle left was cropped outward to fill in the space.
One last trick, for those crops that refuse to stay down, attach a small binder clip to a paper clip and hang that from the branch (you can just make out the paper clip at the arrow):
Two final pics. This is an AK-47 where I used all these techniques:
6.3 ounces and Plant of the Month!
Questions welcome.
- Thread starter
- #144
little kitten
Well-Known Member
Chicken!!!!? I don't believe that with all the good looking plants you've put on here! lol
little kitten
Well-Known Member
Turned out really well!!!!Hi Shed and folks. I’m dropping back to update on this supercrop and bend on the pure sativa just entering flower - Purple Satellite.
It had a very compromised veg period, growing up during the apocalypse and I’m pleased to report that it has recovered brilliantly. Here’s some pics taken since the supercrop day on Feb 5 (pictured above), up until yesterday.
I was primarily aiming to trigger 2 lower side shoots (front and back) into a bit of aciton and they responded very well, the back one reaching higher that the 2 previously main branches and some of the other lowers coming up to join the party as well. I’m super happy with the shape now - I think it looks beautiful and rangey, just how I like ‘emSo it’s taught me something about the shape of this plant before flower and what happens to it.
The heavily supercropped branch.
Also the supercropped branch.
and yesterday... because the light was niceIt’s 6-and-a-bit weeks into flower.
Nexrt year same but bigger!
Grreat read!
- Thread starter
- #148
Thank you DRey! Always glad to offer up what I can here 
.
.little kitten
Well-Known Member
Very Good Read!!!!!!!Thank you DRey! Always glad to offer up what I can here
Hi there
I took a clone off a plant who had endured quite a bit of stress tbh. In fact it was very unwell. It’s the Journal called Lucky’s Edition, if you have time for a look.
My question is, if you take a clone from a plant, what would cause it to instantly go into flower? The main plant is happily vegging, but the clone who has had the same conditions growing is flowering.
I took a clone off a plant who had endured quite a bit of stress tbh. In fact it was very unwell. It’s the Journal called Lucky’s Edition, if you have time for a look.
My question is, if you take a clone from a plant, what would cause it to instantly go into flower? The main plant is happily vegging, but the clone who has had the same conditions growing is flowering.
- Thread starter
- #151
Is this an auto or photo? If it's a photo, did you change the lighting schedule at all when trying to get the clone to root?
Thank you for replying.
I’m not sure what a photo is, but it is definitely not an auto. And when I say definitely, I’m 89% sure. Old mate said it was a Female Gorilla Glue. But if I judge his intelligence based on his grow style, he wouldn’t be able to tell the difference between shit and chocolate.
And yes ever so slightly. I have an area in my yard that has gentle sun. The sun strength here is like it has been beemed straight from the devils arsehole.
I struck it the exact way I have struck every other clone. Approx 14 hours of light for 7 days.
- Thread starter
- #153
An auto plant flowers on its own regardless of the lighting schedule, and a photoperiod plant needs a lighting change to go into flower. And 89% is still iffy!
Gentle sun is good for clones.
Is that 14 hours a day or 14 hours total? Also, what happens at the end of 7 days?
14 hours per day.
At the end of 7 days I mix 12 hours sun, 6 hours faux Mars sun. Which gives that total of 18 hours which I have been advised is best for veg.
- Thread starter
- #155
If you go from 18 hours/day of light to 14 hours/day it will send a photo period plant into flower.
Oh I see. I’m just going to keep her in the 12:12 room. She’s got next to nothing to work with so I’ll be interested to see what she does.
- Thread starter
- #157
She'll flower!
can this be done outdoors?Anyone interested in a bit on supercropping? Here is my introduction to the technique. I don't deal so much on the actual way to perform a supercrop, but the reasons and places to do it:
DISCLAIMER: This is high stress plant training and I do not recommend it for an autoflower plant. Not that you won't see people do it to theirs, I just don't recommend it. It definitely slows down the plant while it recovers.
Supercropping is a technique where you bend the stem at something close to a 90º angle, snapping the internal fibers of the plant in the process. It can be done in flower, though it's usually performed in veg. There are loads of videos on how to do it so I won't go into a detailed description. Generally, you squeeze the stem where you want the bend to be until you feel the plant's tissue give way, and then lay the upper part of the branch over at a right angle.
With thinner or woodier stems that are harder to crush, I rock them back and forth over my thumbnail until they soften enough to lay over.
The stem eventually forms a "knuckle" at the bend, and it increases the nutrient pathways to the top part of that branch. That's not usually why we do it, but it's another positive result. And if done early in flower (like at the end of stretch when you know who are the leaders), it can result in larger buds on that branch.
Now let's talk about why we supercrop our plants. The traditional reason is that it keeps the plant canopy level, making all your potential bud-sites the same distance from the lights. In this instance, the leaders are bent at the level of the rest of the canopy, usually toward the outside edge of the tent so as not to cover lower growth.
But there are other reasons to use this technique, for both indoor and outdoor growers (who don't need a level canopy).
Besides leveling the canopy, here are two additional reasons to supercrop.
First, to greatly increase the number of bud-sites. Every time you flatten a branch, everything that would have been larf can now become a new top. Here is where I bent an AK-47 branch:
And here is how many new tops were created by that one bend:
All of that lower growth will now head directly toward the light.
[Note that when you are thinning your undergrowth, keep the supercrop option in mind. If you strip everything underneath there will be no shoots to grow new tops. So if you plan on supercropping, thin with the future in mind.]
And second, supercropping to make room for other supercropping! In this example I bent branch that has no lower branches to grow up, but I've bent it away to clear room to bend a different branch that does have lower branches that I want to expose. (Read the boxes in numbered order so it makes sense.):
If I had just bent the top branch it would have covered the bud-sites on the lower branch, so I bent that out of the way first.
And I will often bend a branch into the middle of a plant so the plant doesn't get too wide, as long as there is an empty spot to fill in, or some weak growth below you will be pruning at some point anyway. You can see an example of that here:
Top left was supercropped inward to keep it within the existing outer circle of the plant, and middle left was cropped outward to fill in the space.
One last trick, for those crops that refuse to stay down, attach a small binder clip to a paper clip and hang that from the branch (you can just make out the paper clip at the arrow):
Two final pics. This is an AK-47 where I used all these techniques:
6.3 ounces and Plant of the Month!
Questions welcome.
- Thread starter
- #159
Absolutely! All the pics I've posted this thread were of plants grown outside in pots, and it will work just as well on those in the ground.
AdaminCO
Well-Known Member
@PennJ This is what I was talking about earlier.Anyone interested in a bit on supercropping? Here is my introduction to the technique. I don't deal so much on the actual way to perform a supercrop, but the reasons and places to do it:
DISCLAIMER: This is high stress plant training and I do not recommend it for an autoflower plant. Not that you won't see people do it to theirs, I just don't recommend it. It definitely slows down the plant while it recovers.
Supercropping is a technique where you bend the stem at something close to a 90º angle, snapping the internal fibers of the plant in the process. It can be done in flower, though it's usually performed in veg. There are loads of videos on how to do it so I won't go into a detailed description. Generally, you squeeze the stem where you want the bend to be until you feel the plant's tissue give way, and then lay the upper part of the branch over at a right angle.
With thinner or woodier stems that are harder to crush, I rock them back and forth over my thumbnail until they soften enough to lay over.
The stem eventually forms a "knuckle" at the bend, and it increases the nutrient pathways to the top part of that branch. That's not usually why we do it, but it's another positive result. And if done early in flower (like at the end of stretch when you know who are the leaders), it can result in larger buds on that branch.
Now let's talk about why we supercrop our plants. The traditional reason is that it keeps the plant canopy level, making all your potential bud-sites the same distance from the lights. In this instance, the leaders are bent at the level of the rest of the canopy, usually toward the outside edge of the tent so as not to cover lower growth.
But there are other reasons to use this technique, for both indoor and outdoor growers (who don't need a level canopy).
Besides leveling the canopy, here are two additional reasons to supercrop.
First, to greatly increase the number of bud-sites. Every time you flatten a branch, everything that would have been larf can now become a new top. Here is where I bent an AK-47 branch:
And here is how many new tops were created by that one bend:
All of that lower growth will now head directly toward the light.
[Note that when you are thinning your undergrowth, keep the supercrop option in mind. If you strip everything underneath there will be no shoots to grow new tops. So if you plan on supercropping, thin with the future in mind.]
And second, supercropping to make room for other supercropping! In this example I bent branch that has no lower branches to grow up, but I've bent it away to clear room to bend a different branch that does have lower branches that I want to expose. (Read the boxes in numbered order so it makes sense.):
If I had just bent the top branch it would have covered the bud-sites on the lower branch, so I bent that out of the way first.
And I will often bend a branch into the middle of a plant so the plant doesn't get too wide, as long as there is an empty spot to fill in, or some weak growth below you will be pruning at some point anyway. You can see an example of that here:
Top left was supercropped inward to keep it within the existing outer circle of the plant, and middle left was cropped outward to fill in the space.
One last trick, for those crops that refuse to stay down, attach a small binder clip to a paper clip and hang that from the branch (you can just make out the paper clip at the arrow):
Two final pics. This is an AK-47 where I used all these techniques:
6.3 ounces and Plant of the Month!
Questions welcome.
@InTheShed told me I was doing everything wrong me first grow. Lol!