Starting A Continuous Harvest Grow - Need Advice

Hey your a mega crop user ? which one are you using ?

pretty much the original. have had the same bag for 7 yrs. it's only pennies a grow.


i was with a one part but that was about year ago and they have changed the ratios since so have gone with their recent two part with the bud xplosion pk boooster, how do you find it ?

it's super easy but not for everyone.


also the veg dose give me 1200ec


gonna assume you mean ppm because that ec would have the ground on fire. do you know if you are on 500 or 700 scale?


 
i have the blue magic wand ec stick thats every where so the read out is cf12 - EC1200 - PPM500 or TDS =600 ppm and finally 700 or ECx700 = 840ppm thats what i call an EC of 1200 or 1.2 , the highest it goes with recomended doses is EC2700 which would be 500 = 1300ppm and 700 = 1820ppm
thats 60 grams of part a and 50 grams of part b and then 30 grams of bud explosion pk boost , the leaves start turning yellow with the increase in PK and reduction in nitrogen . its pretty good and love it, and what size bag did you get ? i know you dont have to use much but 7 years ? 1 or 2 plants ? unless the bag was one of the large 15kg "ish" bags if your growing one or more plants lol.
 
Hey your a mega crop user ? which one are you using ? i was with a one part but that was about year ago and they have changed the ratios since so have gone with their recent two part with the bud xplosion pk boooster, how do you find it ? i think its spot on for an all in one compared to buyig nthe different bottles from other brands and with it been powder its easir to store and measure too. i do have a seaweed addative thats from multimite as a booster if aminos and micro nutrients and also other good stuff although its not really got an npk ratio thats very high if at all i add 500ml to 100litres of water currently putting om 200-300ml as my system holds abhout 60litres about 3ml per litre the product says you can use quite a lot up to 10ml per litre depending on the application.

also the veg dose give me 1200ec on water thats 100 to start with and the flower ration gives me above 2000ec so i have reduced the flower dosege to bring it back down to 1400-1800 ec when in flower . i went on chat gpt put in contents of each part a and b with ratios and the outcome then asked it to give me a mix it thought would give me the EC i wanted lol. currently in flower started off at 1800 ish ec and its gone down to 1300ec so plants have been taking more nutrients than water as they get down the 60 litres to about the last 20 to 30 litres of water runnning through the system ( i dont top up uinless the ec starts rising as that says there is too much nutrients ). so could probably add a bit more nutrients maybe bring it up to 2000ec next time .
I bet blueter knows all about the mega crop,I never used it before but alota people either love it or hate it,not sure why it's safbn. Mm N
 
I bet blueter knows all about the mega crop,I never used it before but alota people either love it or hate it,not sure why it's safbn. Mm N
i love it and recomand it it was my last grow started on the frist bag i had and it got wet and went all slimy and clumped together and couldnt ge tit to dry out again so just to be safe i got some more but had to get the two part as the one part i had they dont do anymore and thats what i gave the last plant during the last weeks of flowering and all my clones are growing in the veg dose pretty well. and the new flwoering plants are doing well in it so far they have shot up about 4 incvh from when i put them in roughly 2 weeks ago and doing well. buds have started to show and form all the first signs of white pistils are forming. well they look like pistols as their all white not green like leaves. like they all start multiplying and then form a solid bud .
 
I also know I could end up having to reveg clones so it's a touchy process
Revege isn't touchy, just time consuming. In perpetual grow adding reveg to the short veg help balance the long flower times.

reflected light from the underside is bad for the plant.
How would it be bad? I have the same thing floating around the grow room. Haven't used them since switching to LED and getting temp controls sorted. Small amount of light hits the foil. A bit of that bunces back off it. The bottom of leave take up a small fraction of what light hits it. It has little to no effect but not bad.

it was something i thought about instead of paying through the nose for nutrients

You have to look at what you are buying. A lot are just marketing. Supper canna mega bud with cartoon plant on the label NPK ,cost more than flowering nutrient with the same NPK. Splitting macro/micro into 6 bottles gives you more control but for more $. You can not push nutrient growth. The plant will only use what it can use. I have a cabinet full of boosters that the local hydro shop gave me. Without a deficiency they are all completely useless. I have use Dynagrows foliage pro and bloom complete all in one synthetic nutrients for years. Use Tbs per gallon of water, nothing else needed. Around $20 a quart or $55 a gallon.

the nutrient line is organic but cannot be classed as organic for various reasons scientific reasons . some peole say dwc is not organic cause of growing in water

All nutrients come from organic source. If microbes break off the carbon bonded to N it is organic. If carbon was chemically stripped off the N it is synthetic. Either way the plant needs the carbon stripped and only absorb the N. Organic the plant is relying on microbes and synthetic the plant relies on the grower. DWC is the media. I have grown organic and synthetic DWC. Root rot and nutrient problems are more common in organic DWC.

i wouldnt say it was neciseraly the air that prunes them but the lack of water in that area prunes them as they will tend to want to grow back in towards the pot where its moist.

There are three types of roots. Air, water and nutrient. Air roots toward the surface( in the net pot), water roots grow out as thick tap roots searching for water and nutrient root tips grow out of them. Tap roots are also the anchoring roots. Media and availability determines how many of each are needed. In "soil" all three are constantly growing to meet the needs. One reason why trees next to a water source are first to blow over in a storm and will often have exposed air roots. DWC grows few tap and air roots since they are abundant. Focuses almost entirely on nutrient root hairs.
The only issue light has is growing alae on roots.

Assuming you are on a .000 EC scale so 2000EC is actually 2.0EC. Pushing much past 2.0 ec will start causing over feed issues.
 
Revege isn't touchy, just time consuming. In perpetual grow adding reveg to the short veg help balance the long flower times.


How would it be bad? I have the same thing floating around the grow room. Haven't used them since switching to LED and getting temp controls sorted. Small amount of light hits the foil. A bit of that bunces back off it. The bottom of leave take up a small fraction of what light hits it. It has little to no effect but not bad.



You have to look at what you are buying. A lot are just marketing. Supper canna mega bud with cartoon plant on the label NPK ,cost more than flowering nutrient with the same NPK. Splitting macro/micro into 6 bottles gives you more control but for more $. You can not push nutrient growth. The plant will only use what it can use. I have a cabinet full of boosters that the local hydro shop gave me. Without a deficiency they are all completely useless. I have use Dynagrows foliage pro and bloom complete all in one synthetic nutrients for years. Use Tbs per gallon of water, nothing else needed. Around $20 a quart or $55 a gallon.



All nutrients come from organic source. If microbes break off the carbon bonded to N it is organic. If carbon was chemically stripped off the N it is synthetic. Either way the plant needs the carbon stripped and only absorb the N. Organic the plant is relying on microbes and synthetic the plant relies on the grower. DWC is the media. I have grown organic and synthetic DWC. Root rot and nutrient problems are more common in organic DWC.



There are three types of roots. Air, water and nutrient. Air roots toward the surface( in the net pot), water roots grow out as thick tap roots searching for water and nutrient root tips grow out of them. Tap roots are also the anchoring roots. Media and availability determines how many of each are needed. In "soil" all three are constantly growing to meet the needs. One reason why trees next to a water source are first to blow over in a storm and will often have exposed air roots. DWC grows few tap and air roots since they are abundant. Focuses almost entirely on nutrient root hairs.
The only issue light has is growing alae on roots.

Assuming you are on a .000 EC scale so 2000EC is actually 2.0EC. Pushing much past 2.0 ec will start causing over feed issues.
thanks for all the info and yea i didnt like the EC pushing EC2700 this time i mchanged the water i have managed to get iot roughly at 1800ec and i just checked and half the water is gone and the ec is at 1300 ish so its taking more water than nutrients so i could possably increase the ec to as you say 2000 so the ec and water stay the same as the water goes down till next water change. i used to top up but i tend to change the water know and only top up if i see the nec rising as they drink the water. yea algea is a big problem in my 5 litre seedling buckets i have got some silver refelctive tape to cover the bucket sides and lids . the seedlings will ove the extra light bouncing back under neath the leaf goiving more penetration through the leaf ( not by much but its there ) .
 
How would it be bad? I have the same thing floating around the grow room.

can cause weird hotspots. i used the reflectix, same stuff i have on my walls - it's only just acceptable on the walls.
before here i got burned on some grows before it was pointed out to me. hermies in the bottom half was the first clue. i was blaming genetics, or anything else but me .... lol

got told to use the non-shiny side of tin foil, or duct tape, and it quit.

i haven't done active hydro since i got here, it was about a decade ago and i was under a mix of more primitive led, mh, and hps. i'm sure it has a part.



A bit of that bunces back off it. The bottom of leave take up a small fraction of what light hits it. It has little to no effect but not bad.

ever try side lighting? it rocks if you can. i would love to add side lighting. 180 degree is good but they get stressed with 360.

the lighter side of the leaf is not conducive to photosynthesis. leaves turn the back side and taco to avoid excess light/heat.


Assuming you are on a .000 EC scale so 2000EC is actually 2.0EC. Pushing much past 2.0 ec will start causing over feed issues.

@Sativa1970 does this track for you?

500 scale measures nacl
700 scale measures kcl
500 scale = tds most places globally

500 scale is used more in eurozone
700 scale is a north american standard
ec is universal measure

ec is a measure of electrical conductivity (duh lol)
ec measures conductive ions in the water

tds measure both conductive ions and neutral material - ppm measure - parts per million, makes no distinction between conductive and non-conductive material.

pretty much how i've always understood the differences between the two scales, tds, and ec. my dad used to travel all over the place taking water samples for his job.

edit: i always express ec as decimal or value and decimal for clarity. ie - 0.5 or 1.2
 
can cause weird hotspots. i used the reflectix, same stuff i have on my walls - it's only just acceptable on the walls.
before here i got burned on some grows before it was pointed out to me. hermies in the bottom half was the first clue. i was blaming genetics, or anything else but me .... lol

got told to use the non-shiny side of tin foil, or duct tape, and it quit.

i haven't done active hydro since i got here, it was about a decade ago and i was under a mix of more primitive led, mh, and hps. i'm sure it has a part.





ever try side lighting? it rocks if you can. i would love to add side lighting. 180 degree is good but they get stressed with 360.

the lighter side of the leaf is not conducive to photosynthesis. leaves turn the back side and taco to avoid excess light/heat.




@Sativa1970 does this track for you?

500 scale measures nacl
700 scale measures kcl
500 scale = tds most places globally

500 scale is used more in eurozone
700 scale is a north american standard
ec is universal measure

ec is a measure of electrical conductivity (duh lol)
ec measures conductive ions in the water

tds measure both conductive ions and neutral material - ppm measure - parts per million, makes no distinction between conductive and non-conductive material.

pretty much how i've always understood the differences between the two scales, tds, and ec. my dad used to travel all over the place taking water samples for his job.

edit: i always express ec as decimal or value and decimal for clarity. ie - 0.5 or 1.2
Hot spots with high pressure bulbs and high gloss makes sense.

I use side lighting in veg and flower. That's how I keep my sativas "short" and wide. Tried underlighting with 120wats LED. No change in the plant, good or bad. Just wasted equipment time and energy.

Your break down on meter readings is good. Never considered TDS was 500PPM scale. TDS is an EC reading that uses a math equation to estimate total solids. PPM is supposed to be the actual number of solids measured by the tool. Doesn't matter what metric or scale you use. Just looking for comparison and trends within your grow room. EC is preferred for comparing between growers because it is universal.

When I was referring to the EC scale I was referring to the meter display. Showing 2163 EC is simply not displaying the decimal point because it is .XXX scale. It should be read as 2.163 EC. Or asking if it was supposed to be 2163PPM.
 
Hot spots with high pressure bulbs and high gloss makes sense.

I use side lighting in veg and flower. That's how I keep my sativas "short" and wide. Tried underlighting with 120wats LED. No change in the plant, good or bad. Just wasted equipment time and energy.

Your break down on meter readings is good. Never considered TDS was 500PPM scale. TDS is an EC reading that uses a math equation to estimate total solids. PPM is supposed to be the actual number of solids measured by the tool. Doesn't matter what metric or scale you use. Just looking for comparison and trends within your grow room. EC is preferred for comparing between growers because it is universal.

When I was referring to the EC scale I was referring to the meter display. Showing 2163 EC is simply not displaying the decimal point because it is .XXX scale. It should be read as 2.163 EC. Or asking if it was supposed to be 2163PPM.
Yea it does say ec is 1.2 in veg and goes up to 2.4 in flower and higher withj added pk boost , i have emailed the meg crop support team and they say the ec is ok up to 2.4EC . but since i dont have O2 suppliment i think i can lower the ec to more acceptable levels , So having an ec of 2.4 as you say over there ( over here i would know between an ec of 1.2 and 1200 as we read both engilsh and american material . i beleiev the english standerd for ppm is the ppm 500 value and the ec can be either put as 1.2EC or 1200EC but looking at my stick as it has all 4 measuremnts cf reading would be 1200 not 12 as it states amd the ec is as you say 1.2 which i interpret as 1200EC but should be 12CF or 1200CF ( thats my mistake ) or 600 ppm

here is my stick i am sure most of you all know which one it is .


i know from reading material ec is measured in either decimal or the thousands eg 1.2 or 1200 depeding on where you come from and ppm can be measured in either the 500ppm scale or the 700ppm scale i normaly go by the 500ppm scale and the ec of 1.2 but interpret it as 1200ec which i trhink is wehat the CF rating is it says 12vf but i think its ment to mean 1200CF eg i should read it 1.2ec and 1200cf not 1.2ec and 1200ec as i have been doing as its confusing people so i will try put a decimal in there from now on.

copyed and pasted from google

28 Mar 2024 — EC Value: 1.5 to 2.2 mS/cm (1,500 to 2,200 µS/cm) is recommended for leafy greens, indicating an ideal nutrient concentration. pH Value: 5.5 to ...

you would have to put 1.25EC i could put 1250EC which is the same i read in uS/cm not mS/cm i beleieve the higher the number the more exact you can make your ratio eg 1.254 i can put 1254 i already have the digit there to add the value . either iether will do for me


chat gpts take on the whole thing

Ah, you're absolutely correct! The phrase "eye-ther or ee-ther" (often said as "either or either") is a playful way of highlighting the two accepted pronunciations of the word "either." It's frequently used to express that both options or pronunciations are equally valid and interchangeable, as in:

"You say 'eye-ther,' and I say 'ee-ther,' let's call the whole thing off!"

This comes from the famous song "Let's Call the Whole Thing Off," where similar playful contrasts like "to-may-to" vs. "to-mah-to" are sung to show differences in pronunciation that ultimately don’t matter.

So, while there's only one correct spelling, the dual pronunciation of "either" (eye-ther/ee-ther) embodies the concept of flexibility you're describing!.

someone didnt want to use all those numbers so he shortened it down with a decimal point taking 2000 to 2.0 its either or either ( i spell it either or iether to make a differnt spelling when both should be spelt as chat gpt has given them ee-ther and eye-ther )

as you all know in the usa you have far more dialects and accents than the uk has someone can say "out" up north in newcastle and i wouldnt understand what he said his pronounciation of the word is completely different they pronounce it like uoot take the r off of root . you get uoot .

i will try put 1.2 and 2.4 when i mention ec in the future as this is a mainly USA based website


i also have these https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07FD21D2B?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1 . plus another ph meter that cost £40 and my blue stick below

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Sorry was a typo I didn't review my post was distracted n hit post lol. So why the divide on the mega crop,? Why so many hate megacrop? I also was thinking about my continuous grow and I was thinking what if I added a reveg to my cycle ? Only 3 cycles are rooted at any given time,3 stages of growth,the earliest being the clones. What if I added a reveg to the cycle? I could skip a clone cycle and just add the reveg ? What's the average time of a reveg?. Also Sativa1970 where did we have the talk about clone phases ? Want to link the convo to another thread? ?
 
Ladies hit the bottom of the hygrometer ....
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This is Paisley she really stretching out ...
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This Luna she is changing the most,larger fans very thick secondarys n getting darker and she stretching quick....
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This Soliel the one that got burnt,she the new runt and is very thin,smaller leaves but stretching also....
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This is the clawing girl Lyra,her secondary branching is the furthest behind,she has double serrated leaf edges and 9 plus fingers on mature leaves. Stretch slowly
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looking good , i dont haave any clones in at the moment i am waiting for the 4 in the small tent to veg so i can take clones of them and then keep them till the clones have taken hold and then bin them and start veging the new clones ready for transfer in to the flowering tent once this set of 4 flowering are finished in about 6 to 8 weeks. dont think i am going to mess with the timer on this grow pricess on electric are said to be going up so every once of electrici can save is better . the light is a 720watt and its on a ballast that is 200w,400w,600w and a 660w boost . i have the light low but at 400w and still getting decent par level at the canapy of 700-800ppfd . hopefully 400watt will do a 4x4 as alot of lights are around 500-600watts amd the recomended for a 4x4 is 500 watts so i am only 100watts off that , i was thinking of getting UV for the flowering tent bring up the wattage abit with different light i can get a set of UV lights for £80 and already have a spare timer. do you have UV in flowering side ? i do recall you saying but didnt know if that was in clone side or veg/flower side.
 
@Digipro Just trying to confirm I was correctly reading what you said, not start a whole side tangent. EC is a universal metric base scale, US or Europe. US, contrary to common belief, dose use metric, but only in science related measurements. mS is Millionth scale and µS is micro scale not US scale. 1000µS = 1 mS. I was just confirming 1200 was ECµS not typo meant to be PPM. Less accurate but faster to round off to the 1.2ECmS scale. Like 1 compared to 1.000 trades speed for accuracy. Use either one you want now that I know it is definitely EC.

When you are told 1.8 to 2.4 first you have to be on the same scale. Second you have to be in the same grow. You have a different environment and a different plant so you have a different number needed. Reason you get a rough range. Your plant knows the correct number. When the water is used and the EC is unchanged you have found the number your plant wants. That is the only correct number. Plenty of Canadians on here too. When they come Uoot we know what they are talkin a boot. Fortunately they have a sense of humor a boot it too. lol.

@4our8ighty0 It isn't just mega crop. Some have issues with any, all in one mix. Simple but it limits flexibility of adding each nutrient as needed. Personally, I use an all in one without issue. If I need N in flower I just add a bit of the veg formula for example. A few people have had obscure micro nute deficiencies with mega crop. Most are simply user error.

I could skip a clone cycle and just add the reveg ?
Yes you can just reveg, but it will be slower more risk and more work. Farther you are into flower the longer the reveg. From 1 day up to 4 weeks of hormone induced mutant leaves before true leaves begin to grow in again.

With a veg clone, the leaves use stored nutrients to start the roots. Roots then send more nutrient to the leaves to make more glucose to make more roots. Growth is exponential. 6 inch cutting to 6 inch veg plant is around 3 weeks.

Monster crop clones are cutting from early flower. Same as veg clone but they have natural flower/root hormones. Rooting starts faster but veg growth is delayed by reveg. Roots may grow a week faster but reveg could delay veg by 2-3 weeks. 6 inch cutting to 6 inch veg plant is around 3 to 5 weeks

Monster Cropping a plant is when you reveg after harvest. The plant has vary little stored energy or leaves to make more glucose. The few leaves must maintain the plant stems and roots while providing a surplus to build more veg. It is a slow uphill process. Takes longer to regrow as it would to grow from seed. 6 inch MC to 6 inch veg plant may take 6 weeks but it will grow slower than the clones for the fallowing 2-3 weeks.

Think you already found it, but the thread with Phillybonker? This what you were referring to?

When do clones start vegging?​

 
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