Skybound's Journal

ilikemsticky said:
that's a good looking plant you no im not that experienced to give advice about your situation most of mine look that way do you no @conradino23 he has a great understanding of these plants he grows all organic high brix if you could get a little better pic of those and show it to him he can tell you if theres a problem hes really great!
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Until I break down and spring for a GoPro, the shitty phone cam is all I have. As to help, I am just seeking more input about plant language and everyone researches stuff, so if you have any suspicions, please share. If I can more accurately diagnose, I can adjust the feed accordingly then observe. I'll wait a few hours to see if @conradino23 gives feedback here before I begin stalking him on his journal, lol.
 
It’s something to do with light spectrum. Outdoor I saw it very rarely, but indoor practically every plant in flowering has them. It doesn’t influence photosynthesis negatively and has nothing to do with phosphorus imo.
 
conradino23 said:
It’s something to do with light spectrum. Outdoor I saw it very rarely, but indoor practically every plant in flowering has them. It doesn’t influence photosynthesis negatively and has nothing to do with phosphorus imo.
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When in your out vs indoor experiences, were you in the same soil comps? Thanks for this feedback, it's exactly what I'm searching for.
 
Yep the same soil.
 
Skybound said:
When in your out vs indoor experiences, were you in the same soil comps? Thanks for this feedback, it's exactly what I'm searching for.
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hey sky what d you think are you a little more comfortable with your grow conrad knows his shit hes been growing a long time and this is the kind of stuff hes good at if you have questins about cloning and ferts and things like that then go see @Norcaliwood hes been growing a long time to between them two theres more experience than will ever have lol!
 
ilikemsticky said:
hey sky what d you think are you a little more comfortable with your grow conrad knows his shit hes been growing a long time and this is the kind of stuff hes good at if you have questins about cloning and ferts and things like that then go see @Norcaliwood hes been growing a long time to between them two theres more experience than will ever have lol!
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I don't mean to exalt myself but I believe what I'm doing with nutes is something of a pioneer, at least as far as 420 is concerned. Most other growers I've read on that are into hydro rely on a brand of nutes, and all though some modify the feed charts, from what I can see it's little more than guess work, and considering the way brands mix certain elements, it's rare the end user can alter one thing only without also altering something else. CalMag for example, try to give more calcium only? You can't w/o also giving more Mag as well, yet the range for calcium acceptability is very wide, whereas Mg is not so forgiving, so in an effort to bump up the Cal, most would then begin a Mg toxicity which in turn would lock up other elements and begin a cascading effect.

By learning to use Hydro Buddy, users can isolate certain elements to augment w/o affecting others for the most part. This can be done with Hydro Buddy and pretty much and brand of nutes on the market so long as the label has a Guaranteed Analysis printed. I've found that there are still restrictions when augmenting nute brands, but still, just adding Hydro Buddy to the equation, the user has WAY more flexibility with the nutes they are invested into. For me though, there is unlimited freedom in using salts and my restrictions are reduced insanely low.

So it is this ability that would allow me to take feedback from seasoned vets like Conrad and Woody about plant language, then I can tweak my feed based on their feedback. For instance if Con said my N looks too much, I can reduce it by whatever factor he suggests, or increase it. My end goal is to serve the plants, not the nutes and if it will grow me more bud of better quality, I will add whatever else I gotta to achieve that goal. As is now, I found the cheapest materials that affords me the most control to produce the most customized line of nutes that is very close to being absolutely perfect for cannabis whereas every other brand of nutes targets all crops. I only care about the cannabis.
 
ilikemsticky said:
I want to say this if I was a hydro grower I would want to be your apprentice because I want whats best for the plant to it makes perfect sense healthy plant better bud its a nice thing to have those seasoned growers around to learn from ive already learned a lot from them!:)
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I'm little more than a novice myself, fresh out of prep school if you will. This type of info isn't easy to locate, and all I was able to uncover was enough to get me pretty close. I was able to advance that somewhat, but I'm not yet one that could have apprentices lol. Mixing nutes isn't as hard as you think, it's the same concept as mixing an ACT except nute mixing involves using a scale to measure weights instead of volumes. All of the magic is done in the math (in Hydro Buddy). Elemental PPM is exactly that, but our imperial measures of gallons complicate the hell out of the system, but when comprehended in metric, it's brainless. In metric, 1 ppm equals 1mg per liter. 1 liter of water is 1 million milligrams, so to have 1ppm of say iron, you'd take away 1mg of water and replace it with 1mg of iron. Easy peasy, really!
 
Skybound said:
I'm little more than a novice myself, fresh out of prep school if you will. This type of info isn't easy to locate, and all I was able to uncover was enough to get me pretty close. I was able to advance that somewhat, but I'm not yet one that could have apprentices lol. Mixing nutes isn't as hard as you think, it's the same concept as mixing an ACT except nute mixing involves using a scale to measure weights instead of volumes. All of the magic is done in the math (in Hydro Buddy). Elemental PPM is exactly that, but our imperial measures of gallons complicate the hell out of the system, but when comprehended in metric, it's brainless. In metric, 1 ppm equals 1mg per liter. 1 liter of water is 1 million milligrams, so to have 1ppm of say iron, you'd take away 1mg of water and replace it with 1mg of iron. Easy peasy, really!
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that's cool you can do it that way if I need a little iron I throw in some molasses!
 
ilikemsticky said:
that's cool you can do it that way if I need a little iron I throw in some molasses!
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I just used iron as an example element. I was just trying to outline how easy it is to understand PPM.
 
The leaves on your PC look so good compared to my PC. I think I will have to get HBuddy and start running my nutrients though it- see if I can come up with anything because right now I think I’m just flailing around in the dark with the Monsanto bottles.
Can you show a few pics of your actual process in the laboratory with the ingredients? I’m wondering what the process looks like for mixing, going from (I think) some powdered stuff in a container to something the plants can access. . Or maybe you have already shown that somewhere?
 
Here is my collection of salts. In the box is Iron DTPA, Zinc EDTA, Copper EDTA, Manganese EDTA, Sodium Molybdate and Boric Acid. Those 6 make the micro blend which is the absolute base part. Once mixed to my specs, it will make up 1000 gallons of reservoir, so for me, 100 ten gal resses. Outside the box is a food preservative that prevents algae from forming in the micro blend. Maybe at less of a concentrated state, but at a 1000:1, I didn't want to take the chance, so bump up my $160 estimate by the cost of this tub. I couldn't find a small qty of it, but if can, do so. It's called Sodium Benzoate, and there's a very good explanation HERE. Also in the micro grouping is a 0.00 scale. To weigh up the required amount of molybdenum for the 1000 gal mix, less than a half gram is needed and honestly, the math requires a 3 decimal scale, but I could only afford the 2 decimal scale, so I round up. Small solo shot cups are great for weighing everything except the Iron. Manganese is pushing it if memory serves me well.

The other group is 4 lb jugs of CalNite, MagNite, MKP. There's a bag of Epsom, and a bag of Potassium Sulfate I found on Amazon for like $6. The little tub is Potassium Silicate, but my next order I'll get the 4lb tube so it lasts. These are all the macros and secondaries (technically micros) Everything on this side of the table is always mixed at the same weights for them all. 1 gram of salt weight to every 10ml of liquid volume. This makes it so you can dial in your targets on Hydro Buddy and easily resolve the liquid volume from the returned weight given by the app. So if for instance the app tells me I need 0.927grams of solution X, I just need to shift the decimal over one and realize that as 9.27ml of liquid volume. It is preferred to mix weekly res changes from a liquid base because a respirator or paper mask is not needed when working with liquids.

to mix 1 gallon of Macros, add 378.54 grams
to mix a half gallon (what I make), add 189.27 grams.
I use the 0.0 scale for this and also round up. All of this rounding up of course decreases my accuracy by that much, but I assure you, my doses are still more accurate than everyone else's as I am then only slivers away from numbers I want versus points away from numbers a brand aims to com close to.
I use the same scooper for retrieving weights. That 2 gallon bucet back there is used with that printed liquid paddle in a drill to mix the salts into each solution and all tools are thoroughly rinsed between mixtures so not to cross contaminate. If you don't have a printer, you'll need to use a paint paddle, though I have reservations with using metals in with my nutes. When water is added, the salts will lock together and not liquefy, so thorough agitation is a must.

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When mixing salts to water, it is important you first pour some of that pure water into a side cup to make room for what comes back as even though the salts are soluble, it still accounts of space in the volume of the jug. To get the most into the mix, I end up with 2 cups of salts per mixture due to the limits of my scale, but regardless, pour a little bit of water in the bucket, then all of the salts and swirl around. then with the still pure water, pour it into the cup(s) to wash out any powders and essentially clean the cup(s) before adding in the rest of the water. Agitate till all salts are dissolved, or with some, won't dissolve any more, then transfer the mixture it's respective jug. Use the side water to fill the jug the rest of the way and what you don't used was originally meant to have spilled all over the table as overflow, lol.

Here is my concentrates next to my ACT station that is currently brewing one up to be used tomorrow. I used to have 8 jugs as one had a fulvic/humic blend in concentrate that turned stinky. I also experimented with fulvic/humic/kelp blend concentrates in past months, but they all seem to turn, so I tossed the jug and will now mix that in weekly as a powder. Grow rates are just too noticeably more vigorous to stop using again, but it doesn't seem concentrated organic acids is an option either, so it will only be the 7 bottles of nutes with a 1 part powder additive.

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And that's all I have to say about theyyyyyyyyy 'attttt!
 
I got most of the nutes from CustomHydro, but Greenway has some stuff too. TBH though, I only got some of the chelated metals from Greenway, but didn't like that the stuff came in a bag. Shortly after, I found that I was able to locate all of the chelated metals in smaller QTYs at CustomHydro as well, but the way they have their site setup, certain products are kept buried in sub categories and is difficult to locate which is strange, but still, they ship quick and discrete, plus it's nice to source everything from the same seller. I am near certain that all of these products can be located in most every country anyways, especially if any brand of nutrient is made in said country. Before the topic comes up, sulfate micros don't make concentrates w/o everything oxidizing and falling out of the solution. metals need strong chelators to keep them away from everything else.
 
My buddy got some pineapple chunk clones from a friend of his. He doesn't have much info on them. So I told him about your two pheno's. His are both going to be outside. He's hoping for thick stems
 
Dankman_420 said:
Oh boy my head is spinning after thinking about your process :oops: But it's interesting as hell. I'll maybe try hydro someday. But for now I'm just too much of a lazy bastard :laugh:
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It's not so complicated, I think the word "hydro" to an organic grower is sold similarly as Reefer Madness was. I remember when I first started, and even more so prior to then, it was widely believed that hydro should only be left to experienced growers blah blah blah, yet hydro is much easier than I was lead to believe, and once into hydro, and only being able to get close enough, I thought it was a no brainer taking full control of what is fed. For me, the hardest part was learning how to use Hydro Buddy. I failed at that shit for years and it wasn't until I learned what Jack's 321 was. After I learned Jack's 321, I joined RIU and learned how to make 321 better, then learned why it needed to be made better in the first place. That was a fun tangent to investigate and learn.
 
Dankman_420 said:
My buddy got some pineapple chunk clones from a friend of his. He doesn't have much info on them. So I told him about your two pheno's. His are both going to be outside. He's hoping for thick stems
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@Weaselcracker suspects he also has a thin branch, but would you mind posting some pics so we can compare? Generally though, thin stems is leggy, taller and grows faster. Thick stems grows slower and shorter, but stacks way better and I'm fairly sure yields better.
 
Here's some pics of the last run of Triple Cheese. Aside from the visible leaf damage of Ca deficiency, I also see the leaves are definitely on the dark side and I do keep the N fairly high well into bloom. This elevated N did seem to affect the Cheese more than the PC, and I will also see how that plays out with the other strains, by then I'll know if I should lessen the N sooner in bloom. I feel cutting it too soon will affect bud development, but I'll have to read more about N to make a better informed decision. At any rate, I personally am going to miss this Cheese. She is a great yielder, smells like a sweeter version of Boo Berry cereal. I will have to lock away a small quantity for myself to enjoy this summer.

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