Seedlings stunted, help?

[Emilya Green]

I have recently found a way to summarize my watering methods in one phrase... Garden Like A Boss! You have the ability as the gardener to tell the roots exactly where to go and how dense to get. By taking advantage of this unnatural human ability, you can make this plant much better producing than one that is naturally or lazily grown. By using specialized watering techniques designed to grow a dense rootball in every container you put your plants in, you will drastically increase the plant's ability to produce, simply because the output you get has everything to do with the roots you are able to force the plant to create in the early days of veg. Everything in the grow is cumulative.

Especially when starting out in a large container, you must be smarter than your roots and very clearly show them where to go. Watering incorrectly can cause disaster and watering without purpose will not build that rootball.

In my very last posting, just today, in my major watering thread, I show pictures and give a description of an advanced watering technique designed just for that purpose that I call watering around the edges. Check it out! Watering around the edges

 

[Bill284]

I have recently found a way to summarize my watering methods in one phrase... Garden Like A Boss! You have the ability as the gardener to tell the roots exactly where to go and how dense to get. By taking advantage of this unnatural human ability, you can make this plant much better producing than one that is naturally or lazily grown. By using specialized watering techniques designed to grow a dense rootball in every container you put your plants in, you will drastically increase the plant's ability to produce, simply because the output you get has everything to do with the roots you are able to force the plant to create in the early days of veg. Everything in the grow is cumulative.

Especially when starting out in a large container, you must be smarter than your roots and very clearly show them where to go. Watering incorrectly can cause disaster and watering without purpose will not build that rootball.

In my very last posting, just today, in my major watering thread, I show pictures and give a description of an advanced watering technique designed just for that purpose that I call watering around the edges. Check it out! Watering around the edges

Thats the trick right there. Water the outside edges of any plant not in its final container. Roots will go exactly where you tell them. You have all the controls in your watering can. Its so simple but rookies miss this fact.

 

[Nunyabiz]

Gotcha. Will try to save, if nothing but for the practice. Started germinating new seeds though. Any tips to avoid repeating my mistake?

Well what i would suggest as a pretty for sure way to grow it, the easiest IMO you're probably not going to be interested in.
But my suggestion would be to get seedling soil which is light and fluffy with minimal nutrients.
Fill a standard red solo cup to the brim with the seedling soil, water that soil good in the cup 24+ hours before you plant the germinated seed into it.
Use a little aloe vera and or yucca extract in the water.
Germinate your seed until it just cracks open and the little tap root is just barely showing, then plant about 1/16th to 1/8th inch deep tap root down and a few drops of water to water it in.
In about 10 days the roots will be at bottom of solo cup and leaves will be hanging over the lip of cup, thats when I know she's ready to transplant.

Now this first part I would do no matter what way you chose to actually do for the final grow.

IMO the easiest way is to use a 10 gallon fabric pot, fill to the brim with a high quality Clackamas Coots soil recipe that you can just buy in the bag.
My preference is either the Buildasoil V3 or the Oly Mountain Modern Mix 2.
The V3 will be water only no need for any nutrients as long as you use at least a 10 gallon fabric pot for an autoflower 15+ gal for a photo-period.

FILL the pot with the V3 soil, then add about an inch of Colorado Worm Company castings on top.
Cover with a thick layer of barley straw and inoculate with mycorrhazae.
As you fill the pot with soil do it in layers, add an inch or two of soil then water with fresh dechlorinated water with a little Yucca Extract added to it until the soil is moist, not soaking wet but what is referred to as "field capacity" which is grab a handful and squeeze tight you only want just a few drops of water to drip out. If you get a steady stream you watered a little much if you get nothing or maybe a single drop then add just a tiny bit more.
Just want soil hydrated top to bottom so there are no dry hydrophobic spots.

Dig a hole dead center just a tiny bit larger than the cup.
Dust the hole with mycorrhazae powder, lightly mist the powder with water and aloe vera.
Transplant autoflower to prepared hole and lightly water in with aloe vera water.
Add the barley straw on top for mulch.

Water only as needed to keep soil moist, not wet, never ever dry, but just a constant moist.
And thats it, that should give you the best chance and easiest possible grow to a successful autoflower.
I would still suggest a photo-period for your first grow and 15+ gallon fabric pot.

 

[buffygrows420]

Well what i would suggest as a pretty for sure way to grow it, the easiest IMO you're probably not going to be interested in.
But my suggestion would be to get seedling soil which is light and fluffy with minimal nutrients.
Fill a standard red solo cup to the brim with the seedling soil, water that soil good in the cup 24+ hours before you plant the germinated seed into it.
Use a little aloe vera and or yucca extract in the water.
Germinate your seed until it just cracks open and the little tap root is just barely showing, then plant about 1/16th to 1/8th inch deep tap root down and a few drops of water to water it in.
In about 10 days the roots will be at bottom of solo cup and leaves will be hanging over the lip of cup, thats when I know she's ready to transplant.

Now this first part I would do no matter what way you chose to actually do for the final grow.

IMO the easiest way is to use a 10 gallon fabric pot, fill to the brim with a high quality Clackamas Coots soil recipe that you can just buy in the bag.
My preference is either the Buildasoil V3 or the Oly Mountain Modern Mix 2.
The V3 will be water only no need for any nutrients as long as you use at least a 10 gallon fabric pot for an autoflower 15+ gal for a photo-period.

FILL the pot with the V3 soil, then add about an inch of Colorado Worm Company castings on top.
Cover with a thick layer of barley straw and inoculate with mycorrhazae.
As you fill the pot with soil do it in layers, add an inch or two of soil then water with fresh dechlorinated water with a little Yucca Extract added to it until the soil is moist, not soaking wet but what is referred to as "field capacity" which is grab a handful and squeeze tight you only want just a few drops of water to drip out. If you get a steady stream you watered a little much if you get nothing or maybe a single drop then add just a tiny bit more.
Just want soil hydrated top to bottom so there are no dry hydrophobic spots.

Dig a hole dead center just a tiny bit larger than the cup.
Dust the hole with mycorrhazae powder, lightly mist the powder with water and aloe vera.
Transplant autoflower to prepared hole and lightly water in with aloe vera water.
Add the barley straw on top for mulch.

Water only as needed to keep soil moist, not wet, never ever dry, but just a constant moist.
And thats it, that should give you the best chance and easiest possible grow to a successful autoflower.
I would still suggest a photo-period for your first grow and 15+ gallon fabric pot.

Thank you!! Does this still apply to growing in coco coir or would I need to modify? I also read that it's not great to transplant auto, but rather plant them in their final container.

 

[Emilya Green]

Thank you!! Does this still apply to growing in coco coir or would I need to modify? I also read that it's not great to transplant auto, but rather plant them in their final container.

You can't believe everything you read... especially on the internet. Only some of what I write about applies to coco, but the part about water chasing the roots is universal, even in hydro.

 

[Nunyabiz]

Thank you!! Does this still apply to growing in coco coir or would I need to modify? I also read that it's not great to transplant auto, but rather plant them in their final container.

No quite a bit different for coco.
Need bottled nutrients designed for coco, water daily, 1/4 strength nutrients, can add some worms castings and in coco I personally would just plant straight into a final 5 gal fabric pot, just water carefully the first few days.

 

[NuttyProfessor]

Try letting them dry a good 50% between feeding this time