Re: sappermans super sweet 2nd grow M3 soil, organic, water only, originally sour die
My two cents - that are worth about two cents.
When you flush the lower the PPM of the water you use to flush, the better. The pH will be low if the PPM is low. It is the stuff that is dissolved in the water that changes the pH.
When you flush you are using the very simple chemistry principal of diffusion. Things move from higher concentration to lower concentration until they reach equilibrium, right? Very simple stuff. Water will run out the drain holes before you ever reach equilibrium. This will fix pH issues. The less PPM the water has when it goes in the more effective it will be in removing the things you want to get out.
There is an over-emphasis on pH hereabouts with soil growers. So long is what goes in is between 6.0 and 7.0 in soil you don't have much to worry about. What soil growers need to understand is that nutrients do not move naturally into the roots. They are all ions and are helped by protein transporters. The same transporters move more than one thing. If there is too much of one nutrient or all nutrients they compete against each other for transport. The transporters move what is easiest to grab onto. If there is one thing that is there in great abundance, or everything is in too much abundance the transport proteins only move the things that are easiest to grab and move. I call it too much traffic on the highway. A traffic jam.
What I'm talking about is competitive inhibition. One thing outcompetes the others for transport... The best way to fix this problem is with a good flush.
Strains are different. One may be fine in a traffic jam, and others won't.
That soil you use seems to be good stuff, Sap. It has given you great results. Why would you add cal/mag? Cal/mag is putting more traffic on the road! Did you use it last go around? The results last time were pretty impressive...
I like this pH chart much more than the one that is commonly circulated...
