Rosin Press: Information Thread

I was thinking of the best way to help you, but I realized it will be difficult since there is nothing standard or universal about what we are doing. My build and controller could be very different from one that suits your situation. See if this helps any:

Young Yoda said:
I do have a few more questions!

Don't you get conduction to the steel plates or the rest of the press when the heaters are on?
What exactly is that top piece you have mounted onto the ram called? (buying everything new here)

Yes. Some heat goes into the steel plates but no biggie. I have way more heat than needed to keep the plates hot. There isn't so much heat as to be a problem. My build for the top plate is: aluminum plate, next is the steel plate, then a piece of MDF (wood), and finally an EMT connector with set screw (used for rigid steel conduit into a junction box). The EMT fitting is from the local big box hardware store for about $2. My choices of materials were based on what I had available or could be found locally for cheap.


Also, I would call myself electrically challenged so the wiring and PID/heating thing and probes is all a complicated subject for me to understand. I did see your directives on buying a PID but they probably aren't enough for me..:scratchinghead::biglaugh: Can you help me figure out what I'm looking for?

This is the toughest part. Cheap PIDs usually work just fine but the documentation for them is garbage at best. You can spend 2x-3x as much for the same functionality in order to get a real users' manual printed in English and some customer service/tech support. I can't offer specific wiring instructions because each PID can be wired differently and offer different setups and options. Basically, the PID needs: power (115V or 220V A/C), a 'K'-type (for our purposes) thermocouple used for the temperature probe, and a device the PID turns on and off (heaters in this case).

Along that vein, what exactly is the plug that connects to the cartridge heaters? You mean a 115V plug like a 3pronged wall outlet plug? that you spliced to the heaters?

Yes. The heaters plug into 115V or 220V A/C. You can use any method of connecting them you like. I did use a standard wall plug because I use this PID for different things and wanted to keep it standard. You could hardwire the heaters directly to the SSR without any kind of plug. Speaking of SSRs, I used one because the PID I bought only handles a max of 3 amps. I wanted the ability for more. It turns out the SSR I bought was 15A, not 10A (stoner memory). Some PIDs have an SSR built in and can handle enough current to not need an external SSR. It all depends on the PID and the amount of power you want it to control.

The high5 cartridge heaters seem to have a round recessed plug which I was expecting to plug right into the PID.. Am I wrong?

No. You are correct. High5 used an oddball connector to keep it proprietary so they can charge $30 for a $4 heater. Again, you can hardwire the heater(s) and thermocouple so you don't need any plugs or sockets. I used the standard plugs and sockets only so my PID is universal for a variety of tasks and with a variety of devices (BBQ smoker, crock pot/slow cooker, grow room heater, rosin press, and souse-vide.

Maybe you could drop more photos of the electronics for me?

Thanks big time for the help! I did see your other posts, I've been following your work! Well done, and thanks for sharing! :Namaste:
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Dunno if this gets you any further along. I'd be glad to offer more photos or explanation but since each PID is a little different, it is hard to give any general wiring, capabilities, or settings. The PID I bought is a REX-C100. I did have to open it up, de-solder a diode and add a jumper to make it work with the external SSR.
PID considerations:
How much current can it switch on/off (does it need a SSR)?
Is it 115V or 220V?
Does it read in both centigrade and Fahrenheit?
How is the documentation/support?
What type of thermocouple(s) will it accept?
What temperature range does it offer?
How much $$$ is it?
 
Major PITA said:
Dunno if this gets you any further along. I'd be glad to offer more photos or explanation but since each PID is a little different, it is hard to give any general wiring, capabilities, or settings. The PID I bought is a REX-C100. I did have to open it up, de-solder a diode and add a jumper to make it work with the external SSR.
PID considerations:
How much current can it switch on/off (does it need a SSR)?
Is it 115V or 220V?
Does it read in both centigrade and Fahrenheit?
How is the documentation/support?
What type of thermocouple(s) will it accept?
What temperature range does it offer?
How much $$$ is it?
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Oh this is terrific major..

I'm lost when you fix the PID for use with the SSR. I'm seeing that very model being sold with an SSR for 15$.. 40A btw. So shouldn't they just work together?.. lol

Also, could 3A be enough for this purpose?
 
Young Yoda said:
Oh this is terrific major..

I'm lost when you fix the PID for use with the SSR. I'm seeing that very model being sold with an SSR for 15$.. 40A btw. So shouldn't they just work together?.. lol

Also, could 3A be enough for this purpose?
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Yes - If the version you buy actually handles a 40A load, you are all set w/o an external SSR. If you have a link to it, I'd be glad to take a look at it and see if I can verify. Likewise, a PID with 3A capability may be adequate. I devalue the published rating by 15% to be safe. If all the heaters combined (or other devices) you use are below 3A, it will work w/o the SSR. I wanted more flexibility in what I could plug into it, and didn't want to push my luck.
 
Major PITA said:
What temp do you like BK??? :high-five:
Is your rosin room temp or cooler when you collect it?
Honestly, this process is so fast, I'm not sure I'll switch. If I gethered up all the rosin I've left on all the parchment pieces I've used so far, I'm sure it would be less than a couple of tenths of a gram. For me, that's not worth spending much extra time or effort on. I just gave away a bunch of bud and still have pounds down in the garden I'll never harvest. My goal is to turn one pound of bud into about 2.5 oz. of rosin as quickly as possible.
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I'm pretty stoked on 210 for flower squishes, I think the sweetspot is nearby. Too long will get u dark color but just on the short side of time and it will still come out golden, less temp and I feel the yield suffers and leaves product behind. More than 210 doesnt seem to up yield.

As far as collection temps, I usually try to throw my product under an icepack right after it comes out of the press so as to instantly stop any further decarboxylation or other processes of degradation...usually this makes the product brittle and shattery, I like to actually warm it back up to 85-95f (put it between my hands) before I try to collect it, otherwise it just bounces and shatters like sand instead of collecting (there are tiny bits of rosin all over my desk...keyboard..mousepad...my wife thinks its really cute...).

As far as collection efficiency goes, sounds like you have great problems lol.

I've been having so much fun with this that I'm blowing thru an alarming amount of "not extra" buds, so I've put a pause on it a little, trying to solve a way to get trim product under the press. I've been keeping a shake bag with a boveda in it, and I'm able to pre puck this shake. It does seem a little darker and dirtier than a straight nug press, but it also has been working surprisingly well.

More than likely Ill be doing a combo of pressing bubble hash and kief.....eventually....hopefully at temps closer to 170....
 
Thanks BK!
I pressed a few yesterday at 215, so I'm getting close. I'll try 210.
 
I operate between 210 and 220 as I have also found that to be a good yield with great terps. BK I hear ya, this has become my go to method of intake. You find yourself gauging certain strains by how good their yield is. I have a jar full of popcorn I use that is dedicated to this purpose but sometimes it's nice to squish an 8th of primo bud and have a wonderful terps session. To those here that have tried the hair straightener version it doesn't compare to some 210F extracted rosin. You need to be trying some. It is like trying herb for the first time in both flavor and effects. I keep us on bonghits and vape as well to not keep my tolerance too sky high!
 
I looked through a bunch of REX C-100's, but I don't see any that handle more than the usual 3A. One thing to realize, with any 10A - 40A SSR, you should have a heat sink for the SSR or it can easily overheat. That's why I'm skeptical there is a REX model that will do it. There isn't room inside the PID for an adequate heat sink.

I'm seeing the PID alone for under $11.
I also see the PID with a 'K' thermocouple, 40A SSR, and heat sink for $15 including free shipping. Helluva deal! All you need is some wire and a box to mount it all in.
 
ShiggityFlip said:
I operate between 210 and 220 as I have also found that to be a good yield with great terps. BK I hear ya, this has become my go to method of intake. You find yourself gauging certain strains by how good their yield is. I have a jar full of popcorn I use that is dedicated to this purpose but sometimes it's nice to squish an 8th of primo bud and have a wonderful terps session. To those here that have tried the hair straightener version it doesn't compare to some 210F extracted rosin. You need to be trying some. It is like trying herb for the first time in both flavor and effects. I keep us on bonghits and vape as well to not keep my tolerance too sky high!
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The product from the hashiest of my strains definitely presses the best in terms of yield and color, but my "junk stash" is mostly sour tangie. While I don't love smoking this strain, it has a really exotic orange juice smell and terpene profile, and a great sativa high. Its perfect for this medium.

I've also noticed that whatever "effect" the particular strain has, its delivered on a freight train and the next stop is several hours away. Another box ticked for the Tangie on that one. Any Indica or hybrid with a little indica can easily become a day-ender vis a vis couchlock lol.

Full blown sativa la la land is like.....right....there...doink...

Also Major, I wonder what the tolerances for the temps of our individual units are. I don't understand the science of the PID's and whatnot (mostly magic and gremlins no doubt), but I would assume that without a seperate source to check temps, there is little reason to assume that 210f on my PID = 210 on yours. I'd have to imagine that across 10 units there is a 10 degree sway or so.
 
Major PITA said:
I looked through a bunch of REX C-100's, but I don't see any that handle more than the usual 3A. One thing to realize, with any 10A - 40A SSR, you should have a heat sink for the SSR or it can easily overheat. That's why I'm skeptical there is a REX model that will do it. There isn't room inside the PID for an adequate heat sink.

I'm seeing the PID alone for under $11.
I also see the PID with a 'K' thermocouple, 40A SSR, and heat sink for $15 including free shipping. Helluva deal! All you need is some wire and a box to mount it all in.
Click to expand...

Yea you found what I was looking at, sorry I wasn't clear.

I was however, looking at ones without the heat sink, glad you mentioned that.
So, it's specifically for the SSR?

Also, still thinking about the details, do you plan on replacing that MDF? As in, you expect it to squish/warp?
 
BrixKlinger said:
Also Major, I wonder what the tolerances for the temps of our individual units are. I don't understand the science of the PID's and whatnot (mostly magic and gremlins no doubt), but I would assume that without a seperate source to check temps, there is little reason to assume that 210f on my PID = 210 on yours. I'd have to imagine that across 10 units there is a 10 degree sway or so.
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Agreed. I thought about this. I feel confident in my temperature readings because I have used this setup for a couple of years and have checked the reading I get with a variety of thermometers and with boiling water as a reference. But I agree, my 215 might be the same as someone else's 210 or 220.

Young Yoda said:
Yea you found what I was looking at, sorry I wasn't clear.

I was however, looking at ones without the heat sink, glad you mentioned that.
So, it's specifically for the SSR?

Also, still thinking about the details, do you plan on replacing that MDF? As in, you expect it to squish/warp?
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The heat sink is for the SSR alone. It handles all the power. You should consider an inline fuse to protect everything. Your home's electrical circuit won't supply 40A, but even 5A - 10A could start a fire if there is a short or component failure.

I won't replace the MDF unless I have a reason. It doesn't get very hot (I can hold onto it after I'm done pressing and the heat is still on). It gets no stress from the press. The MDF has a hole drilled in it so the press' ram/arbor passes through the MDF, hitting the steel plate only. Otherwise the press would destroy it - probably upon first use.
 
Major PITA said:
The heat sink is for the SSR alone. It handles all the power. You should consider an inline fuse to protect everything. Your home's electrical circuit won't supply 40A, but even 5A - 10A could start a fire if there is a short or component failure.

I won't replace the MDF unless I have a reason. It doesn't get very hot (I can hold onto it after I'm done pressing and the heat is still on). It gets no stress from the press. The MDF has a hole drilled in it so the press' ram/arbor passes through the MDF, hitting the steel plate only. Otherwise the press would destroy it - probably upon first use.
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Ok, do you mean something like a car stereo circuit breaker? Where in the circuit would that get hooked in?

Wait, so why is the MDF there, I thought it was to prevent conduction to the rest of the press??
I know I sort of asked this already but, wouldn't the whole press get to 220 if you leave the PID on long enough?
Would there be problems if the MDF was sandwiched between the steel and aluminum?
 
Young Yoda said:
Ok, do you mean something like a car stereo circuit breaker? Where in the circuit would that get hooked in?

Wait, so why is the MDF there, I thought it was to prevent conduction to the rest of the press??
I know I sort of asked this already but, wouldn't the whole press get to 220 if you leave the PID on long enough?
Would there be problems if the MDF was sandwiched between the steel and aluminum?
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I'd place the fuse or circuit breaker at the beginning - off the power cord before it is wired to anything. Coming off the fuse would be two connections: one wire will deliver power to the PID, the second wire will supply power to the SSR.

The MDF is not needed. I used it because it is much cheaper (free in my case) and easier to work with than metal. It is not designed to be an insulator although it offer a little of that capability. My use of the MDF was just to make it easy to mount the plate to the press and to hold the aluminum and steel together in alignment. You could go without anything: place one steel plate down on the press, next stack the bottom aluminum plate on it, now comes the herb puck and parchment, next on top of the stack is the top aluminum plate, and finally the top steel plate. Now press it. The aluminum is hot and all needs to be kept in alignment so moving things around is a Major PITA. My solution was the three bolts going through the MDF and steel, into threaded holes in the aluminum so I can screw it all together into a sandwich that stays put.

In theory, the entire press could get hot if you left it on long enough. The reality is, there is so much mass in the press, it will dissipate any reasonable amount of heat and stay cool to the touch. I've had mine on for a max of about 1/2 hour at a time and I can touch any part of it except the aluminum and steel plates. Even those aren't crazy hot. Remember, we are only working in the low 200's. It can burn you, but it's not like we are using a cutting torch or arc welder. My MDF is slightly larger than the metal plates so it acts as a bit of a shield when placing more parchment/herb packs into them. You can hold onto the MDF while at full heat. It is warm but not hot. The steel plates take a long time to soak up heat and do a decent job of dissipating that heat. My usual amount of time using the press is only about 15 minutes and that includes the warm up time. After I'm finished, I turn it off, and unplug it. I can easily handle or touch anything except the aluminum.
 
I don't want to derail or SPAM this topic but I drew out a quick block diagram for potential wiring of a DIY PID. I used a 20A fast blow fuse for additional safety and marked where I would wire in an optional SPST power switch. The 115V A/C out goes to the heater(s) or other device being controlled by the PID.

PID1.jpg
 
Far from a derailment that's exactly the type of post that we need here. Reps!

Edit: must spread reps around ...
 
is anyone pressing kief? what are u doing for prep vis a vis paper folding tech and container/filter?

HALP! Seems like these 25micron bags are too tight, stuff doesnt like to come out of them, i just have blowouts of both paper and filter, hours of work and product down teh drain......FML>.....
 
I have been pressing keif with anything from 37-90
I think 25 could be the issue but I've also had issues with not enough heat but get this!
Purple Dream is super super frosty

Fantastic hybrid strain to smoke and vape but it blows to press

Nothing is created equal and it's Oil characteristics are such that you have to use to much heat to get it to flow out of the bag

I've also picked up some paper tea bags to test
I'll let you all know in a day or two how they worked
I picked them up in an attempt to quit spending so much on nylon mesh bags!!

Does anyone have a URL for a place I can pick up a roll of nylon mesh? I've got a super sewing machine and wouldn't have a problem making my own

I'd sure rather give the extra $$$ to a children's hospital than one of these overpriced company's

Hope that helped


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