Hey buddy!
What about if I want to run 2 should I wire them in series or parallel?
2280mA what voltage do they run?
What about if I want to run 2 should I wire them in series or parallel?
2280mA what voltage do they run?
Rider's first foray into LED strip lighting: Samsung H Series GEN3
SOG001
Well-Known Member
I've been rethinking what I need to replace the SS400s and I would need four of the FB22Bs to get to 600W thanks for the input and gettin me back on track lol.
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- #383
Rider509
Well-Known Member
Either/or. Depends on the driver you use. They run at 46V typ.
Agreed. You don't want to push the forward voltage limits of your driver too closely. I'd stay at least 2V under. There can be some voltage variance in the modules plus voltage drop across wires. You could end up in a situation where it isn't full on and then as LEDs warm their forward voltage drops and it would get brighter. You could end up with an unstable intensity as lights warm up and temperatures in the room changes.
However putting things in series balances modules better just make sure you have some overhead.
Also a note on COB. Load of junk science in this industry about people getting all in to chip on board. It was developed by the industry as a low cost solution to light bulbs to just mount to a heatsink with a driver underneath in say a PAR30 or can light or something. Instead of designing a circuit board and assembling LEDs to it you just make one big LED.
The downsides on the LED side are less efficient, lower lifetimes, and a higher chance to screw up the thermal heatsinking. Downside on grow is it is a bigger point source meaning a higher heat spot and not as good penetration as spreading it out. Light manufacturers started using these to make less expensive products and since some worked, people got all fired up on "COBs". Same thing as a module just more dense with worse performance. Also those aftermarket heatsinks can be more costly than a u-channel or extruded fin from local metal shop.
What CCT is everyone using for veg? I see 5000K a lot but I've also seen warmer. Any anecdotes?
Tunkers
Well-Known Member
Lookey what just came in the mail...
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I hope they don't sell out or I'll be stuck buying baby boards...
SOG001
Well-Known Member
Thanks Rider for the reply I have decided to run the HLG600H-48A driver and wire in parallel
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- #388
Rider509
Well-Known Member
Very cool. You can see from my grow that the plants dig the lights. And the driver barely gets warm driving four of the strips to 2280mA each. Even driving the strips hard to around 3400mA the driver doesn't approach max temps, but the strips get uncomfortably hot. And if someday you add two more you'll have six strips running @2000mA each, which is the same output as an HLG550 system at a fraction of the cost.
Lookey what just came in the mail...
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Tunkers what CCT did you get? I assume this is for flower.
Also everyone had good success with 5000K for veg or anyone suggest anything else?
Thinking about doing my first DIY go at this.
Tunkers
Well-Known Member
I just stuck with 3500K. Was nearly going to do 2 x 3000K and 2 x 4000K but decided to keep it simple, stupid. Is there a right answer to that question though? Seems everyone has an idea for perfect Kelvin
What do ye guys think of a 6000k cob as supplement lighting for an hps system?
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- #392
Rider509
Well-Known Member
What would be the purpose? More blue light? I don't know that it'd make much of a difference, especially with just one COB.
It's 2 50 watt cobs. Super bright. . I am just wondering whether the 6000k temperature will actually do any good for the plant? Maybe even as a little flower corner in a tent for the first couple of weeks of flower? What do you think? Any help would be appreciated.
PurpleGunRack
Well-Known Member
Just plowed through the entire 27 pages(and 2,78548 spliffs) super valueable information and nice builds 
I like the QB288's I have, but I think they're too diode dense, and I'm going into research mode while saving up to replace the blurples in my secondary tent, which then would become my primary tent.
I'm gonna do a little test build with the Samsung Q series strips soon and use the (hopefully functioning) results as supplemental lighting
Would it be possible to mount the strips to a heatsink with small bolts screwed into pre-drilled holes in the heatsink alligned with the little indentations in the strips?
I like the QB288's I have, but I think they're too diode dense, and I'm going into research mode while saving up to replace the blurples in my secondary tent, which then would become my primary tent.
I'm gonna do a little test build with the Samsung Q series strips soon and use the (hopefully functioning) results as supplemental lighting
Would it be possible to mount the strips to a heatsink with small bolts screwed into pre-drilled holes in the heatsink alligned with the little indentations in the strips?
Just plowed through the entire 27 pages(and 2,78548 spliffs) super valueable information and nice builds
I like the QB288's I have, but I think they're too diode dense, and I'm going into research mode while saving up to replace the blurples in my secondary tent, which then would become my primary tent.
I'm gonna do a little test build with the Samsung Q series strips soon and use the (hopefully functioning) results as supplemental lighting
Would it be possible to mount the strips to a heatsink with small bolts screwed into pre-drilled holes in the heatsink alligned with the little indentations in the strips?
Q series are the best performing modules for lm/w but aren't your best value of lm/$ and you can't drive them as hard. I'm looking for my first test of doing F series Gen 3 which is the LT-FB22B 3500K SI-B8U521B20WW . I've used the Gen 2 extensively for work and like the metal core. Gen 3 went back to CEM pcbs I think because of the improvement of die junction to ambient going from the LM561B+ to LM561C.
Just for fun I looked at taking 2 of your Q series 4ft in parallel and driving max @ 900ma ea (2x900ma = 1800ma) vs 1 F series at full 1800ma and then adjusting for same temperature since they have different sorting temperatures and added 92% efficiency for a Meanwell ELG or HLG driver and the result was @3500K
Q setup (2x4ft) = 14564lm , 87.3w , 167lm/w , $46.42
F setup (1x4ft) = 13605lm , 93.7W , 145lm/w, $26.51
So for nearly half the price you only lose 959 lumens and add 6.4 watts (price for modules only from DigiKey)
Check out samsungs calculator . Super good.
Engine Calculator | SAMSUNG LED | Samsung LED Global Website
PurpleGunRack
Well-Known Member
Thanks for your reply
I know the F series are a lot more cost effective, so are the Bridgelux EB series Gen 2, and both are certainly still in consideration for the final build.
I live in a country where electricity is quite expensive so getting the highest efficiency sometimes pays off in the long run, 15% more efficient using 6,8% less power is not merely a marginal difference, but I must admit that it's mostly to try the top dog(though they rarely stay on top for long in this game)
Since the final build will be mostly for flowering, I will be using 3000K and if I'm lucky enough to come across it, 90 CRI
Very nice to have someone with your insight here, super appreciated
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- #397
Rider509
Well-Known Member
I'm glad you're her too, LEDXpert! Now I don't have to answer the questions. I get to sit back and watch. LOLVery nice to have someone with your insight here, super appreciated
PurpleGunRack
Well-Known Member
@Rider509 Do you have some info on the bin used in the F-series?
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- #399
Rider509
Well-Known Member
My understanding is they are S6 bin, with the lower bin chips being sold off.
PurpleGunRack
Well-Known Member
Thanks
I can't find any info on it, certainly something that can affect my final build decision, for now I have 10 of the 1' Q-series strips on the way for a little test build