Looks like some great amendments there Reave.
Reave's Perpetual Grow
- Thread starter Reave
- Start date
I will be doing a 1 plant organic outdoor/greenhouse in late April or May. Its kind of overwhelming finding a good recipe. I need to decide on something as it will need to cook.
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- #803
Reave
Well-Known Member
Post from last page so it doesn’t get lost. I’m going to need help with that soil eventually.
Post in thread 'Reave's Perpetual Grow'
Reave's Perpetual Grow
Post in thread 'Reave's Perpetual Grow'
Reave's Perpetual Grow
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- #804
Reave
Well-Known Member
Thanks I saw @bobrown14 , recommend what is called Coots mix I believe. I have the components of that and am going to try and make it work
Does the dry additives need to cook to? Or if my compost is already ready I can just mix it up? Bout to find out how noob at TLO I am. Never done gardening before cannabis.
More questions than answers at this point but we will worry about that when the supply’s arrive.
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- #805
Reave
Well-Known Member
Update Flower Tent:
Alaskan Purple:
Starting to look real pretty.
White Og
Getting close:
I dialed back the mega crop and added 1ml per litre of Awesome blossom. Girls looks like they could use more PK and I’m hoping this helps they get sticky icky. Ewwwwweeeeee.
Alaskan Purple:
Starting to look real pretty.
White Og
Getting close:
I dialed back the mega crop and added 1ml per litre of Awesome blossom. Girls looks like they could use more PK and I’m hoping this helps they get sticky icky. Ewwwwweeeeee.
Hell yeah!! Let’s do it!Been doing some reading into TLO growing and decided to start my own soil this spring.
I ordered the following:
I have access to some strong compost with the following properties:
Still need to purchase some Canadian spahgnum and peat moss , some rice hulls( not sure where to get these yet), I have some perlite already, and some EWC.
what you guys think? This will get me started?
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- #807
Reave
Well-Known Member
Oh you know it bud. Taking the training wheels off.
Diatomacious
Well-Known Member
Make sure you are using enough glacial rock dust... this will provide trace elements normally found in actual dirt. Peat moss and perlite have zero trace element in them so you will have to provide them. Other than that I would just say to try it as an experiment on the side in case of fail. Organics are a little harder than water soluble chemicals just because you have to blend the fertilizer into the dirt and not just dissolve it in water so if you mess up that part it will haunt your whole grow (can't be flushed).
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- #809
Reave
Well-Known Member
Thanks I’m following someone else’s recipe I’ll post it after I find it.
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- #810
Reave
Well-Known Member
I understand Coots mix is very good and not a hot mix so it doesn't need the amount of 'cooking' that a mix like SubCool's needs. 3 years ago my current mix started out as my approximation of SubCool's as I couldn't find all his ingredients locally, but since then I came across the approach of Coots and have added in his ingredients, as well as some others like Bio-char as I liked what I read about it.
I don't think it matters whether dry or wet, some amendments still need cooking but others, I and think the Coots mix is not a hot mix and is good to go quite quickly. But my feeling is a soil mix can benefit from being left to settle/cook for a little while to let the biology acclimatise and get set up, so if time isn't pressing letting soil cook/settle for a period I feel can only be a good thing, particularly if you have inadvertently been heavy handed with any of the ingredients!
If you have never done gardening before cannabis, the way your buds and plants look, you've easily made up for lost time, Looking great Reave!
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- #812
Yes I would think so.
A while back I read of someone who after harvesting was keeping the root mass with it's clinging soil and letting it dry and then chopping it up for the purpose of recovering the mycorrizhae content that had developed within the roots He wa then using it to add to his new plant roots when up potting. I haven't done that, a bit lazy, I figure if I am re-useing my soil each grow then hopefully there should be a reasonable amount of mycorrizhal spores existing in it anyway but I very much liked the idea.
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- #814
Reave
Well-Known Member
White Og:
Putting in some serious weight, the flowers are starting to lean over. She’s still not ready yet though.
Alaskan Purple:
Flowers are starting to build and color is stating to come in. I think she might be real pretty
The Scrog:
Putting in some serious weight, the flowers are starting to lean over. She’s still not ready yet though.
Alaskan Purple:
Flowers are starting to build and color is stating to come in. I think she might be real pretty
The Scrog:
Diatomacious
Well-Known Member
Can't wait to see how it turns out.
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- #817
Reave
Well-Known Member
I have started my own compost but that will not be ready for some time, in the mean time this is what I will be using for EWC and Compost portions of the Coots mix I am making. These look like some good quality products that will hold me over while my own compost starts this summer.
For the compost we have Sea Soil Compost:
For Worm Castings we have:
I already have perlite so Im thinking of skipping the lava rocks, I also have clay pepples so we can line those at the bottom of the pots.
Most of what I have been reading suggest this Coots mix should be done in larger containers, but I am confused about starting and up potting still. Does not matter yet though we are still in the making the soil stage. I have asked bb if I can use the promix bales I have left over in the mix instead of buying pete, but the pete is a lot cheaper so I might just save the pro mix bales for a rainy day.
Thanks for stopping by,
Reave Out.
For the compost we have Sea Soil Compost:
For Worm Castings we have:
I already have perlite so Im thinking of skipping the lava rocks, I also have clay pepples so we can line those at the bottom of the pots.
Most of what I have been reading suggest this Coots mix should be done in larger containers, but I am confused about starting and up potting still. Does not matter yet though we are still in the making the soil stage. I have asked bb if I can use the promix bales I have left over in the mix instead of buying pete, but the pete is a lot cheaper so I might just save the pro mix bales for a rainy day.
Thanks for stopping by,
Reave Out.
That sounds good Reave. Some folk are quite particular on their up-potting for root building purposes. While I like the idea, I have found it a pain doing the up-potting. In my current grow, I tried to be clever and plant the germinated seeds in concentric pots which didn't work out as I intended. With the starter pot enclosed in it's intermediate and final pots, instead of forming a nice root ball, their tap roots just shot down thru the base of their pot, thru the material of the landscape liner and down into the next pot. It was a hopeless attempt,
and one that I rapidly got pissed off at myself for messing it up so stupidly. To remedy it, I took them out and up potted the little seedlings straight into their final pots. The Godfather's tap root got torn off when I removed it from it's starter pot as it had grown thru the landscape fabric lining the pot, and the Strawberry Cough seedling got momentarily totally buried under soil as I re-potted her in her final pot as she hadn't yet developed any sort of root ball only a few wispy roots. But the point I am getting at here, is in spite of making a total mess of my seedlings and re-potting them into their final pots without a proper rootball having been developed, they still have developed into reasonably good thriving plants. And plus, in nature there is no up-potting. I don't know how much better my plants would have been if I'd been able to up-pot properly. I think the main thing is just develop your soil and if possible give it some time to settle and let it's biology get underway.
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- #819
Reave
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the input. I’m not it too much of a hurry so we should be able to let it sit a couple weeks to a month.That sounds good Reave. Some folk are quite particular on their up-potting for root building purposes. While I like the idea, I have found it a pain doing the up-potting. In my current grow, I tried to be clever and plant the germinated seeds in concentric pots which didn't work out as I intended. With the starter pot enclosed in it's intermediate and final pots, instead of forming a nice root ball, their tap roots just shot down thru the base of their pot, thru the material of the landscape liner and down into the next pot. It was a hopeless attempt,
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
I wish to have you research out this idea before you do it. It is a common belief that putting rocks in the bottom of the container helps with drainage. In actuality, this is false, the rocks actually manage to keep that area wet down there and really don't help with the drainage of the soil at all.
Soil has a dynamic that is built into the mix, called its flow through ability. This is the ability for water, because of gravity, to flow through the soil from top to bottom and if there is too much for the soil to be able to hold (the water retention rate) it will flow right out of the soil and down through the drainage holes. Soil should need no help draining, if it is well designed. Compare a typical soil to a clay, to visualize the difference in flow through rate. Clay might be able to hold a lot of water, but it doesn't go anywhere.
The other problem with the rocks in the bottom is the amount of extra surface area with all the new structures down there. Because of capillary action between the sides and the bottom and those rocks, that area remains wet long after the soil above has dried out. This area is ripe for the cultivation of bad microbes... no oxygen, dark and stagnant water... it is a recipe for failure. Find a planter that has used this method, and lift the mess out of there so you can smell what is down there. That stink... that nasty smell, is bad microbes, algae and other nasties. I recommend putting a thin layer of aged compost down there... not too much or you stop the flow through... but enough to give the roots something to enjoy when they find it down there. Other than that, put that soil all the way down to the bottom and let the flow through do its thing.