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cbdhemp808
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This is a 20+% CBD called Blue Magnolia. Looks to be terpinolene dominant...
Blue Magnolia. photo: iHEMPx
Blue Magnolia. photo: iHEMPx
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Whoa !!!Holy shmoly! Look at these numbers...
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Our Cultivars How We Choose Our Cultivars Genetics Every December the family convenes to discuss what genetics we will grow the following season. We arehorncreekhemp.com
Wow... !This is a 20+% CBD called Blue Magnolia. Looks to be terpinolene dominant...
Blue Magnolia. photo: iHEMPx
I have learned a lot following this discussion. Thanks.
As for CBD and mold resistance I can tell you that I have one strain (individual) that stands out. I believe it to be CBD Shark Shock from CBD Crew.
I bought a whole bunch of stuff from Top Tao thinking it would be mold resistant. (Maybe for an arid climate?)A few years ago a friend ordered their "Indica Mix Pack" which was an assortment of their varieties that grow out to "1:1" ratio. Well, he planted the whole package at once and then didn't know what to do with them so he asked for help and I grew a couple. I took cuttings and have/keep clones.
Nice!Based on what CBD CREW was selling for "1:1" plants and their descriptions, I am fairly sure that one is CBD Critical Mass and the other is CBD Shark Shock.
I have preferred the CBD-Critical Mass and had some tested last year. I haven't gotten too close to the CBD-Shark Shock since it is stinky as hell;
but it grows reliably and is a large rounded bush of dark green and, in flower, it makes large solid colas and buds that smell to high heaven. It was described as " a skunk sitting in a garlic patch" by someone.
I think CBD Shark Shock is a high CBD plant crossed to Shark Shock which was a White Widow x Skunk #1. I don't know what makes it mold resistant; I will probably get around to having it tested when I have fresh buds this fall.
There is a lot to fungus/plant interactions. Friends or foes? Emerging insights from fungal interactions with plants
I am no expert on this but..... maybe there IS a way to clone autos ;-) Below I will link a paper I found about using Night Interrupt lighting to reset the Phytochrome clock and have the plants think they just had a very short night = a very long day as WE think of it. According to this article autos are simply photos with a VERY long day (short night) requirement to stay vegetative - a situation that does not occur naturally. But adding only a little light in the middle of the dark period accomplishes the task. In Florida and the southern US they can use this to allow autos to veg longer and get to a larger size before flowering, or keep photos vegetative. I don't know why this wouldn't work to allow cuttings of autos to stay vegetative and root. This whole past winter I kept my normal photos in a sunroom at 42N and had a "60W" LED bulb (9W actual) come on for 10min in the middle of the dark period and they stayed veggie just fine. (Growth was weak with dim winter natural light, but that is OK because I just want the mothers to make it to April to kick off some shoots to clone for summer gardening.) So... if you have autos, maybe it doesn't have to be a one shot thing. I have no autos to test this with.I bought a whole bunch of stuff from Top Tao thinking it would be mold resistant. (Maybe for an arid climate?)
They send a zillion free "Top Tao Auto Mixes". I do not know what to do with them. Some are 0.5m bushes, and some are 2m bushes, and you do not know until you grow. And with an auto, there is no way to clone...
I am no expert on this but..... maybe there IS a way to clone autos ;-) Below I will link a paper I found about using Night Interrupt lighting to reset the Phytochrome clock and have the plants think they just had a very short night = a very long day as WE think of it. According to this article autos are simply photos with a VERY long day (short night) requirement to stay vegetative - a situation that does not occur naturally. But adding only a little light in the middle of the dark period accomplishes the task. In Florida and the southern US they can use this to allow autos to veg longer and get to a larger size before flowering, or keep photos vegetative. I don't know why this wouldn't work to allow cuttings of autos to stay vegetative and root. This whole past winter I kept my normal photos in a sunroom at 42N and had a "60W" LED bulb (9W actual) come on for 10min in the middle of the dark period and they stayed veggie just fine. (Growth was weak with dim winter natural light, but that is OK because I just want the mothers to make it to April to kick off some shoots to clone for summer gardening.) So... if you have autos, maybe it doesn't have to be a one shot thing. I have no autos to test this with.
Exactly!-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
How supplemental lighting can be used for outdoor cannabis cultivation
As outdoor cannabis cultivation spreads across the U.S., growers are learning that supplemental lighting is necessary even with outdoor grows.mjbizdaily.com
How supplemental lighting can be used for outdoor cannabis cultivation
By Allison Justice
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(About using NI lighting to enable growing cannabis down in Florida where the days are too short and plants flower immediately. Also, days >17hr, or NI, can be used to keep Autos vegetative and growing to a larger size before flowering. (but then, why grow autos???))
Cheers!
I actually uncovered in my research that CBD Shark Shock is high in terpinolene, so thanks for the confirmation that it's mold/fungus resistant.I have learned a lot following this discussion. Thanks.
As for CBD and mold resistance I can tell you that I have one strain (individual) that stands out. I believe it to be CBD Shark Shock from CBD Crew. A few years ago a friend ordered their "Indica Mix Pack" which was an assortment of their varieties that grow out to "1:1" ratio. Well, he planted the whole package at once and then didn't know what to do with them so he asked for help and I grew a couple. I took cuttings and have/keep clones. Based on what CBD CREW was selling for "1:1" plants and their descriptions, I am fairly sure that one is CBD Critical Mass and the other is CBD Shark Shock. I have preferred the CBD-Critical Mass and had some tested last year. I haven't gotten too close to the CBD-Shark Shock since it is stinky as hell; but it grows reliably and is a large rounded bush of dark green and, in flower, it makes large solid colas and buds that smell to high heaven. It was described as " a skunk sitting in a garlic patch" by someone. I think CBD Shark Shock is a high CBD plant crossed to Shark Shock which was a White Widow x Skunk #1. I don't know what makes it mold resistant; I will probably get around to having it tested when I have fresh buds this fall.
There is a lot to fungus/plant interactions. Friends or foes? Emerging insights from fungal interactions with plants
Yeah, I've been using night interruption for years and it works great. This is specifically for photoperiod plants, and prevents them from going into flower. This technique will not stop true autoflowering cannabis from flowering. Yes, there is a strange category called semi-autoflowering which I actually don't fully understand. To me, it's a latent trait in which a photoperiod plant will show a tendency to go into flower, but perhaps not fully into flower, even though it's flowering hormones are "reset" by lighting. This may occur in one pheno of a strain and not another pheno. I've actually seen this in my grow.I am no expert on this but..... maybe there IS a way to clone autos ;-) Below I will link a paper I found about using Night Interrupt lighting to reset the Phytochrome clock and have the plants think they just had a very short night = a very long day as WE think of it. According to this article autos are simply photos with a VERY long day (short night) requirement to stay vegetative - a situation that does not occur naturally. But adding only a little light in the middle of the dark period accomplishes the task. In Florida and the southern US they can use this to allow autos to veg longer and get to a larger size before flowering, or keep photos vegetative. I don't know why this wouldn't work to allow cuttings of autos to stay vegetative and root. This whole past winter I kept my normal photos in a sunroom at 42N and had a "60W" LED bulb (9W actual) come on for 10min in the middle of the dark period and they stayed veggie just fine. (Growth was weak with dim winter natural light, but that is OK because I just want the mothers to make it to April to kick off some shoots to clone for summer gardening.) So... if you have autos, maybe it doesn't have to be a one shot thing. I have no autos to test this with.
For now, I'll end this line of inquiry here...
terp profile for Island Sweet Skunk (pheno)...
I happened across the Phylos cannabis genetics database again, and found that indeed Skunk #1 and Northern Lights #5 are classified as having mostly skunk genetics. (Skunk #1 is considered the Original Skunk, "created in the late 1970s from Afghani Indica, Acapulco Gold Mexican Sativa and Colombian Gold Sativa"). Afghani has mostly skunk genetics. Orange Velvet and Trainwreck have prominent skunk genetics. Add to these, Cinderella 99, White Widow, and Jack Herer – all have mostly skunk genetics, especially Cinderella 99. Skunk #1 has the lowest level of genetic variation, by far, indicating that it's a stable breeding line.OK, so I've just realized that Skunk #1 and Northern Lights #5 are very similar – they are both crosses of Afghani indica and sativas from Mexico and Colombia. Both of these could be called "skunk" genetics. You could add to that as well, Orange Bud and Orange Velvet. All are "skunk", and it seems this is how terpinolene wound up in the early indica hybrids. And there are countless hybrids that have in their lineage these skunk genetics. (Trainwreck is another one based on Afghani and tropical sativas, although it's not known as "skunk". Perhaps part of the reason the name "skunk" took hold is because landrace Afghani indicas are known to have a skunky odor, which is from thiols and not terpenes.)
I just harvested my CBD #9, which is a 10% CBD variety of Cherry Blossom (THC < 1%). I would say this is a 50/50 hybrid, indica dominant. I have never had my single pheno tested for terps, however I've seen a terpene profile that shows high amounts of myrcene and pinene, but not terpinolene. I've done multiple harvests of this plant over the past few years, and there's always some bud rot. This time I grew in a 10 gal. pot (instead of 5 or 7 gal), for the first time, and the plant grew very tall and I topped at 8 ft. to fit in the greenhouse. The top buds were some of the best buds I've ever harvested – big and dense. Basically zero bud rot in those top colas. There was some bud rot, especially lower down, but it was very isolated. ...I was kind of blown away.
Next up... I found out some exciting new information about Harle-Tsu CBD, terpinolene, and cutting-edge high-CBD type 3 cannabis. And seeds are available!
Unfortunately, that won't bring up an answer directly. You can try: "CBD strains" "terpinolene dominant" (with quotes like that). I just tried that and a terpene company website came up, claiming...
"Terpinolene is typically found in sativa-dominant strains high in THC. There are virtually no high-CBD strains with a substantial degree of Terpinolene content."
That's the first I've heard that high-CBD strains don't contain significant amounts of terpinolene. I don't know if I even believe that. I can imagine, though, that's it's rare, because high-CBD is usually associated with indicas, and high terpinolene is typically not found in indicas, although there are exceptions as I've found recently. Seedsman 30:1 CBD could be one that contains terpinolene, because I noticed sativa effects from it, and it had a piney scent.
A general challenge here is that it's often not easy to find reliable terpene profiles for a given strain, and if you do find one or more, you are also dealing with phenotypic differences, which equate to terpene profile differences. It's complicated. And then with CBD strains (chemotype 3), they haven't been around for nearly as long as THC strains, so it's often very difficult to find terpene profiles. Add to that the irritating tendency for seed sellers & breeders to not provide terp profiles for the phenos of the seeds they are selling. Often the only way to get a reading on the terps is to grow out the seed, select the best phenos, flower them out, and get the buds tested.