PotChimp's Tangerine Dream Soilless

Try to get it warmed up and drier and they should finish fine. I having same prob with humidity if you can afford a dehumidifier get one they work great!
 
PotChimp said:
Artists are their own worst critics, JBC420. You're talking to a chimp that gets up every morning, looks in the mirror and says to the empty silhouette where a human being once stood, "You know, other than being dead and feeding some animal in the woods with your flesh or being buried afterward and breaking down into compost to feed plants, you are nothing. You would have spend the rest of your misbegotten, unnecessary life constantly working on self-improvement just to work your way up to the level of being meaningless. Brush your teeth, comb your hair and go fill God's heart with another 24 hours of disgust".
I'm thinking that these plants are doing what the rest of my plants have been doing JBC420; not taking in water or nutes because of the cold root temps (hence the yellowing). I stopped nutes previously and because the plant hasn't been taking up water I haven't been able to flush or add any more. After the heated seed mat the pots are finally starting to dry at what appears to be a close to normal rate. They've been affected too severely at a crucial time in flowering to do much more than they've done already, in my opinion.
My best Jacob Marley impression : Learn from my mistakes, JBC420! Don't grow TDs like me! Pay heed before it's too late! :)
(next to Lev Tolstoy, Dickens is probably the best writer there ever was)
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You speak a delicious oath at your mirror, my mirror lies so I ignore it.

I've grown vertcal SoG, but access is always a problem. If I had built my wire cage and automated drip feed & recovery systems on a big HD turntable, I might still have it working. I've used stakes to tie the growth back from the light, and allow access to the back plants. The front ones have to be moved carefully, but it's possible.
In an upstairs room, medium temperatures are no problem. You might build a raised platform, to allow room air to be circulated underneath.
I could probably grow a TD vert, a monster could claim a corner like an Hawaiian Snow did. The light glows below the tops, and they do get the message.

I'm converting to flat SoG for productivity. I won't have to think, that work has been done and I need only follow proceedure. 2 liter SoG perpetual. I enlisted in the BPN army :)
 
All 3 plants were given distilled water with 2 tablespoons of unsulfured molasses yesterday. This will be the last watering. Trichome appearance change has halted; it still stands at about 5-10% on all flowers checked. Yellowing of leaves is 100% except near and out of the flowers, where they are dark green and seem healthy. Pistil color change is approximately 55-60%. I am estimating 3-6 days to harvest at this point.
 
Why are all the leaves yellowing. Is your pH in check to take the nutes?
I'd try give them a bit longer, start the flush if you need, but keep it warm and look after them.
 
JBC420 said:
Why are all the leaves yellowing. Is your pH in check to take the nutes?
I'd try give them a bit longer, start the flush if you need, but keep it warm and look after them.
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After taking the wire grid off of the plants tonight, I saw the damage that pushing it downward on the plants caused. Most of the branches on all the plants had 90 degree breaks in them, and where healing took place over time the broken areas were swollen and bulbous. Soil Ph is 6.4 in all 3 pots, which is what the distilled water averages out at. Shortening the light cycle from 12/12 1st month - 11/13 2nd month - 10/14 3rd month probably shortened the flowering period and between that and stress, the areas above the breaks have given close to all they've got and the leaves are dying off, too. These flowers are showing heavy pistil color change and have areas where there are 100% opaque trichomes. The breaks are all about middle to middle-high on the plants and underneath (also in a few branches in the back that weren't broken) the undamaged buds seem to be right where you are talking about, at approximately two weeks to harvest (but small from being out of the light under the wire grid). I'll cut the dying tops out and dry them when the pistils are mostly brown, and let the undamaged parts of the plants go a while longer.
 
Siscokid said:
:smoke2: Hey mon... bomboclaut..you jus gotta' catch a fire mon and be cool... irie mon...Jah bless :rasta:

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Bomboclaut and Mrs. Bomboclaut and his eight reindeer (I think one of them was Bambiclaut) can all kiss the lint-filled, smelly crack of this chimp's hairy white pimple covered a$$. Only thing up under my Christmas tree this year was shade. And very little of that..... ;)
 
Hope all comes out ok for you potchimp. Have they changed much since last pictures?
Can't wait to hear and see the finished results man.
 
JBC420 said:
Hope all comes out ok for you potchimp. Have they changed much since last pictures?
Can't wait to hear and see the finished results man.
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Yeah, they've changed in appearance a lot. I joke around a lot about smashing a piece of fence down on them. I did push down a bit to get them down to that 1 foot beneath the light safe zone, but I didn't feel or hear the branches crack when I did it. Where the breaks in the 1/4" diameter branches were, the knots where the breaks healed were over 1/2" (they looked like the ends of a chicken drumstick bone). I'm surprised that they even lived with that much damage to their nute pathways. When most of the yellowing leaves fell and I took the wire grid off I saw it clearly.
One good thing, though. I dried and smoked a few buds off it and I like these Haze strains. So much that I ordered some G13 seeds from one of the sponsors here, too (Herbie's Seeds). It looks like I found my up buzz; now singling out which Haze I like best is the next task at hand.
The next bunch going in here (along with a full spectrum CFL 200 watt light increase) is Connoisseur Genetics Grandaddy Purple. The 100 watts/sq. ft. tent I am using will be for Sativas and Hazes and next I am going with Chocolope there (one of its parents is Cannelope Haze).
:peace:
 
UpIn2Clouds said:
Nice. What is the purpose of the screen. I'm an old schooler, but I think my son has mentioned using this before.
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There is a technique called SCROG (screen of green) used to control a plant's growth in order to make the plant flatter (so the light can reach all the flowering tops evenly) by training it under a screen. In my case I was just trying to keep the three plants from growing into the lights because I didn't top the plants. I am relatively new at this and an old schooler myself, and got my idea from seeing screens used like that.
Man, Ed's grow guide was stapled together back then, and there were like 6 or 7 seed strains to choose from. I don't remember anybody but Flying Dutchman Seeds back then either..... :)
 
Wow, I can't believe I read the whole thing. You're quite entertaining and your grow informative. Did you say you were a noob? I wouldn't think so by reading because you seem quite in the know to me. Ok, so have you chopped yet? Since you been nipping on the buds, any smoke report? Or a mini report? Being a chimp, thought you would go with a strain that smells like bananas....just saying, don't throw no poop at me...lol
 
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