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Find it hard to believe that it didn't go well with you and your flowering attempt at 1k umols.....
I'd be looking at something other than light
I'd be looking at something other than light
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You're kidding right? The paper I sited came off of the internet? That's a peer reviewed study... You can't tell me a helper in the lighting section of a forum, has a better understanding, equipment, resources, and history in botany than a federally funded government sanctioned op that's been going for many, many years This is a joke right? Even with a peer reviewed scientific paper in front of us, we still believe it's wrong? That's slightly impressive.
then you're not understanding the article at all. You're also not the only one on the forums who's read peer reviewed studies, and there's more than just one. Realize that while it's a good study it isn't by any means perfect either and does have flaws, which was all PGR tried to point out to you.The minimum to get any kind of growth is 500 umols. 700 is WAY TOO LOW for any kind of flowering room. You want as close to 1500 as you can get, trust me I tried with 1000, it didn't go well.
As far as par goes, you either have it or you don't. Par is the light waves your plant needs to live. It's there or it's not. It's really that simple.
I'll need to read this thread in abit see if I can learn about umols more myself
I think once you hit 1800 umols you need to co2 after that if not mistaken?
I read the study, though interesting it's based on vegging plants for a short duration of PPFD exposure at different temperatures and CO2 levels.
If you read about the full grow testing done with flowering plants, you'll find that going above 1200 PPFD without CO2 enhancement will give you a marginal return in yield and cannabinoids.
No where in this study does it say that you can't flower with under a certain level of PPFD, and how could it, not a single flower was present in the study.
Icemud420 said:Flaws:
Only 1 type of cannabis species was tested (mexican variety)
Only red/blue light was used in the test, of specific wavelength, not full spectrum
The leaf samples were only given about 45 minutes of light, where photosynthesis peaks usually right before mid day sun.
The readings of PPFD were only on upper leaves using a closed device/system for measuring photosynthesis, but didn't take into consideration intra canopy measurements, or intensities within the intracanopy.
PPFD results were only measured within the range of 660-675nm. (not even the peak wavelengths for absorption)
Those are the flaws I found upon just quickly re-reading the study... so yes, there are quite a few flaws, but also we have to consider that there are very little light research studies done on cannabis in general, so the data that is gathered from this is useful, to some extent.
and after seeing your second hint, yea, they didn't use Far Red to create the emerson effect which would have influenced the results.
The not so easy to understand parts of the study seems to be like that on purpose to sound clever, rather than being rooted in a profound understanding of cannabis and light.
Funny to read the qoute from Icemud, I was thinking all these things while reading it
Thanks for that Tortured
The not so easy to understand parts of the study seems to be like that on purpose to sound clever, rather than being rooted in a profound understanding of cannabis and light.
Funny to read the qoute from Icemud, I was thinking all these things while reading it
I'm looking forward to seeing some of those 45 minute strains
There are some good side by side grows on RUI
PGR, you seem to know a little something about lights. My first grow I used garbage blurples by necessity - 2 1200 watt Maxisuns. 120 ten watt diodes each. Complete GARBAGE. I just upgraded and am eagerly awaiting delivery of my G8 C3 Enhanced Full Spectrum LED with flower booster. Are you familiar with this light? It's their top of the line and it compares favorably with the Gavita 1700e, which was my first choice. But to have to pay so much extra for the controller and EVERYTHING is sold separately - I couldn't do it. So after much research I decided to try this G8. Their high end blurple garbage was highly rated for blurples and they are an American company with all the right diodes and such. So we'll see. I have a separate post somewhere on here asking if anyone has experience with this light. Anything you may know would be appreciated!Re: Plz help me understand this umol's/par
If you're on a tight budget getting HID is the way to go, you can even find used reflectors and ballasts and just have to spring for a new bulb.
If you're looking for the best the market has to offer at the moment you have to do a DIY build(or kit assembly) with strips/boards using the Samsung LM561C diode or the new Samsung LM301B diode. If you want to learn more about DIY, follow the link in my signature
Also, if you CAN grow with more light, why wouldn't you? Light = dense. Light = yield. Light = EVERYTHING.PGR, you seem to know a little something about lights. My first grow I used garbage blurples by necessity - 2 1200 watt Maxisuns. 120 ten watt diodes each. Complete GARBAGE. I just upgraded and am eagerly awaiting delivery of my G8 C3 Enhanced Full Spectrum LED with flower booster. Are you familiar with this light? It's their top of the line and it compares favorably with the Gavita 1700e, which was my first choice. But to have to pay so much extra for the controller and EVERYTHING is sold separately - I couldn't do it. So after much research I decided to try this G8. Their high end blurple garbage was highly rated for blurples and they are an American company with all the right diodes and such. So we'll see. I have a separate post somewhere on here asking if anyone has experience with this light. Anything you may know would be appreciated!
Thank you so much for this detailed response and for taking the time to respond at all. Us newer growers really appreciate it when those with much more experience are so willing to share their knowledge. And you were right, the article DID answer most of my light questions. But not all. I have some questions regarding the idea of "bringing the lights up slowly to 100%" under various circumstances. And assuming one would usually not run their quality lighting at 100% for early seedling/veg (for example), I am curious about the best way and timing to get from the say 60% power to 100% when bringing the lights "up" as veg progresses. Do you have anything on that? Also, I understand that I am not allowed to specify other specific light brands on your post, which I obviously understand and respect. Regarding the light you reviewed here - The corner drops and side drops on the ppfd chart would be concerning to me. But that is nothing more than a statement from someone who is just now awaiting delivery of their first "legit" light. Is there some place that I can ask you about a specific light comparison without offending anyone? If so I would really like to do that. I also have some strain specific questions to ask about strains I am about to grow for the first time but which I'm pretty sure you will have grown before. What would be the best way to discuss/ask you a few questions about that sort of thing? I am super impressed with your grows, your honestly and transparency, your base of knowledge, and seemingly your philosophy of growing as well. I believe the philosophy part is important.Here is a writeup that I did a few years ago which explains plant lighting the best that I could. It covers PAR, PPFD, DLI and other concepts for plant lighting. Its definitely going to answer most questions you need to know...
Icemud LED Grow Featuring The All New Budmaster COB Technology - White Full Spectrum
So I've had my light much too high for pre flower and start of full flower. I've had it up at about 82cm above the top of the canopy which has been giving me about 650ppfd at canopy height. As soon as I read this I went to the tent and lowered my light down about 20cm . I'll slowly lower it more over the next few days .Re: Plz help me understand this umol's/par
Photosynthetic response of Cannabis sativa L. to variations in photosynthetic photon flux densities, temperature and CO2 conditions
Is one, there are plenty more
Re: Plz help me understand this umol's/par
That's at a height of 24". You can get that light a lot closer than that to get the ppfd up. There's a way to calculate what it would be at 16". At 16" I think it would be around 900 or 1100? Each. Maybe much higher, the inverse square law formula is out there somewhere. The ppfd would also be a bit higher with the overlap of the two lights. I run both of mine at 26" because if they were lower the ppfd would be well over 1500 at 16".