PiperPete's White Rhino, Blackberry, and Bubblelicious in Soil, 1/5/2014

Couple more picks. I transplanted them yesterday into 1 gallon pots. A couple of them had issues. Anyobody know what the problem might be? I'm guessing that I gave too many nutes. Sadly, I thought I was supposed to give nutes at every watering.... NOT! Anyway, I let them go, and fed them water only for days, then transplanted. I'm hoping the new soil gives them what they want.

Can someone take a look as the second and third pic and let me know if they agree that its nutrient deficiency? Again, I initially gave too much, then pulled back, that's when the brown spots and yellowing started, about 2 weeks after they came through the soil.

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It looks like a nitrogen deficiency or lockout. Now that they are transplanted it should sort itself out. There is certainly enough food in the roots organic fraction of your veg medium to feed the plant for a couple of weeks without adding anything but plain old water.

Overfeeding little babies is a common new grower mistake. Depending on the medium they're growing in they can go several weeks before they need anything at all. When you feed them strong frets and they are tiny, they can't eat nearly all you give them. With each additional feeding the concentration of nutrients gets higher and higher in the soil - to the point it becomes toxic.

If it was me, I would not feed anything for another week or two and then start with 50% strength feeding and work up to full strength on subsequent feedings.
 
Hi fellow white rhino grower... I have to agree with skunkpilot, back off the nutes for a while, they should have enough in the soil for a few weeks ...nice setup btw :)
 
Ok, so not nutes for a couple weeks. I guess what I need to learn is to give it to them when they ask for it. Water is ok though, right? I'm assuming they will want at least pH'ed water after 3 or so days?
 
As for the overwatering, I'm not sure if that's what they should look like after transplant, but they look perkier now. That pic was about 12 hours after being transplanted (except the one in the back left which was transplanted 36 hours our so ahead of the rest). I'll post a new pick in the AM when I open the tent again. I'm trying not to open it up much 12" inches of snow, single digits, heading down to negative F territory over the next week. Hoping the heaters hold up...... I have them monitored to text my cell if they bang out, and have spares. Also, have an IP cam in the tents so I don't have to keep opening them to check plant distance from lights. That seems to keep the temp and humidity much more stable.
 
My young plants usually go 4-6 days without water.

Sometimes maybe even longer... I've left them dry for 7-8 days on occasion, until I saw a slight wilt.

I soak them pretty well (until I get quite a bit of run-off), and then wait until they're almost completely dry before watering again.

You can tell if they're dry by how heavy the pot is.

Keep a same-sized pot of dry dirt to compare to until you get a good feel for what your dry pots feel like.

When it feels about the same in weight, it's safe to water again.

MJ would much rather have wet/dry cycles than be slightly damp all the time.
 
Here are some more pics from today. The one that was transplanted ahead of the others seems to be doing much better in terms of color and the shape of the leaves, etc.

I intend to transplant them one more time, to a 3 gallon pot. Do I wait, and do that after I have already put it in flower?

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Dresney said:
My young plants usually go 4-6 ....

MJ would much rather have wet/dry cycles than be slightly damp all the time.
Click to expand...


I'll be taking that advice. As mentioned, I transplanted the plant in the last pics I posted, 5 days ago (I call her Carla cause I can't remember numbers on the pots to save my life and can't remember which is which without names). Below is the activity log that I have for her, and I think I was probably feeding it nutes too much. She looked like crap, and I thought she was going to die, which is why I transplanted her first. Well, I figured she was going to die, so I transplanted her first because I have never done it before, and didn't have any help.

Anyway, here is a pic of the feeding log.

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Now that I posted that last pic, don't want everyone thinking I am mental or anything. Its just that I hate making the same mistake twice. With a spreadsheet, I can remember when I fed them, and what I fed them. That and my next grow, I'll know what I did to the different strains to fail or succeed.

Anyway, maybe a bit of OCD, but generally, my work is scientific and I am used to keeping exact measurements and log entries for similar purposes, so I thought why not try the same tracking methods that I do for work.
 
LOL, never mind. I just "invented" this thing called google that found the answer. Thanks for the tip! Love when developers are stoners. They write code that does cool stuff for even pot growers!
 
Hehe, I don't think you're mental.

I have a notebook that I write in everyday... literally a 'grow journal.'

(Mr. Dres says I'm 'old school' because I like using an actual pen and paper.)

I also have over 1,000 pictures saved on my PC covering my grow since October.

It's good to be able to look back and see what works and what doesn't.


As far as transplanting, you do not want to transplant during flower.

I recommend transplanting into your final container at least a week before the flip, maybe even two weeks.

This will give the plant a chance to get over transplant shock and fill its new container with a nice root system.

If you transplant during flower it will impact flower production.


I enjoy reading your journal.

I will admit I cracked a smile going through that spreadsheet. :)

Have some reps for being so organized. :high-five:
 
This is what it looks like when its so damn cold out, that the heat in the house stays on almost constantly, sucking the humidity out of the house. And then, because the humidifier is using 2 gallons of water in 12 hours instead of 1 in 24 hours, the humi ran out of water, and the humidity dipped. Not sure if that's an issue. When it got way down there, I realized it at 4:30am or so, and refilled.

Could have been worse. I usually don't check in the morning. Only checked because I looked at the computer and saw the drop. I'm gonna setup an alert to text my cell so the next time it wakes me up. Kinda like a baby monitor, in a twisted stoner sort of way :tokin:

First one is temp in the tent as well as in the room the tent is in.

Second one is the humidity for the same.

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Here is a pic of that text alert I was talking about. Ran out of water again. Gonna need to figure out a better solution. Without Humidifier, it will drop down into 20% range for humidity, so I think its necessary. What I might do is figure out a better water tank system. The humidifier I have needs to be small, so it only holds 1 gallon of water. I'll put my thinking cap on and figure something out.

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The three Rhinos went into flower last night. Honestly, I put them in because I want to test things out. Of the 7 remaining plants, they are the normal seeds (not feminized), so I'd rather make sure I am doing things right and sacrifice them if I am doing something wrong. With the exception of one of the Rhinos, they are taller than all hell, and have a huge distance between nodes. From all the stuff I have read, I'm am guessing two of the three are males. Of course, I am basing that on research and no real experience, but its fun guessing.

Also, since I just started the first real flower cycle, I noticed some light issues. As stated, I have two tents, a veg and a flower. Both have vents on the side, so air can passively enter when the fan comes on. On the inside of both tents, this vent is covered with a flap that has black material facing outwards, and reflective mylar type material on the side facing inside the tent. In theory, this flap is supposed to let air in, but keep light out. However, when the lights are on in the tents (the veg is always on, even during flower night cycle), you can see a ton of light coming out of the vents. Tonight when the lights come back on, I wasw thinking of taking the Rhinos out of the flower tent, and then close myself up inside it, then turn the lights on outside the tent. I'm hoping that will give me an idea of how much light is allowed in. Of course, my wife will inevitably try and lock me, but oh well.

I know this is always geeky, as it seems like I have focusing on the graphs allot. But, one of the aspects I want to learn is how much it truly costs me per grow, as the seasons change.

Below are three graphs. The first is the graph showing the temp in the two tents, as well as the room that the tents are locked up in. The second is the humidity in all three areas. Lastly, is a graph showing the energy use. This chart shows cumulative energy use throught the first 7pm through 7am Flower Day cycle. This includes the use of the HPS, the Humidifiers, the Heater and the Fans. My electricity is billed at $0.15/kwHour. As an example, here is what I believe is my Flower tent usage for last nights 7pm to 7am cycle:

HPS: 7.5 kw/hr
Flower Humidifer: 2.41 kw/hr
Flower Exhaust: .37 kw/hr
Flower Humidifer2: .10 kw/hr
Flower Heat: .09 kw/hr

Flower Day Time Cost Equals: $1.57

Also, on the temperature and humidity, will the plants care that the temp and humi fluxuate a bit. It bounces up and down as you can seel. Its not allot on the temp side, and not much I can do other than let it run super cold. Anway, thoughts?

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