- Thread starter
- #21
Kapncannabis
Well-Known Member
Thanks Bo. That sheds a little light. The last grow I tested run off with strips,pool test kit and cheap pen. It indicated 5-5.5 and I thought it was low. I was skeptical about the runnoff being concentrated so Purchased blue lab pen to confirm my previous results. It did. I have tested everything around here since The pen appears spot on in both liquid and soils. My soil mix is definitely lower than my vegetable pots. My well water is pushed through limestone but religiously stays at 8.2. Giving me a sort of calibration check before my testing. Oyster shell,maybe the ticket. Yeahow are you testing your soil pH?
Unless its lab tested your results are NOT accurate.
pH is a logarithmic scale = a little off is way off.
That and plants have the ability to change the pH at the Rhizosphere and how they uptake nutrients by regulating the pH in the root zone/Rhizosphere in harmony with microbes and fungi.
You well water pH is high. I have the same issue - its actually alkaline. pH and alkalinity are related but not the same. It's complicated but the reason for your high pH in your well water is from the rocks the water percolates thru and is likely limestone.
I decided long time ago to use an RO filtration system as the ppms and pH of our well water fluctuate hourly... and it can go way up to 10pH. This will kill plants IN CONTAINERS regardless of your soil pH in about 2-3 weeks you will see signs of plant issues.
For soil pH - you can do a slurry test - look up how to do it and that test is not accurate enough to do something or make changes.
You cannot add lime to soil with a plant in the container and expect any changes other than possibly killing your plants. Farmers lime fallow fields in late fall or early spring. That should be a clue that adding lime to a potted plant with a plant in there is bad practice and wont do what you want it to do as you have already found out.
So do nothing - pH adjust your water if you need to bring it down and you should - try getting some Vitamin C (ascorbic ACID) powder - a jar will last several years and cost WAY less than a chemical in a bottle.
As an aside to above:
I use peat moss in my soil mix. When I mix my soil several weeks before planting in it I add oyster shell flour ( 96% calcium carbonate) - this will offset the acidity of the peat moss. Then I add more Ca in the form of Gypsum - which will not change the soil pH over time. As a liming agent you can use gypsum with a growing plant to add Ca not to change soil pH.
Soil you should look at it as a living organism. A natural balance of all your amendments in a living soil. I mix my soil and let it grow. I grow micro-organisms and fungi..they in turn grow the plants. So I'm very mindful of what I add to soil in containers. Outside in the ground its still living but you can mess up BAD and its buffered so you have a lot more leeway. In a container a very small amount of anything can be detrimental.
Hope that helps