Osmocote Plus Plant Food: Discuss Its Use With Cannabis Here!
- Thread starter Munki
- Start date
So DOC just for clarification, is OC+ with Perlite the best you would recommend for hempy? Is so in what ratio? I am thinking of buying some 3gallon buckets soon wiht the OC+ and perlite but also remember you saying FFOF works good too. What would you personally recommend for the first time hempy guys?
Hempy buckets must use perlite. They won't work in soil!
Remember the Hempy comprehensive instructions;
Get a damn bucket, drill a pencil sized hole 2 inches from the bottom, fill it with perlite, and you're good to go.
If you follow the comprehensive instructions, as listed above, you'll be fine. This is friggin easy. Just do it.
OC+ is better than regular OC, because of the micronutes. You could use regular OC and add the micro's if you wish. There is a product called "Micromax" that is made by Scott's...same as OC.
To BIG to hide
I planted 2 plants which i topped at about a foot to keep them small amongst my tomatoes. I used Osm+ for the nutes on all. My tomatoes are about 6 ft tall and the best looking plants on the block however my MJ is about 7 ft. At first you could hardly see the MJ cause the tomatoes were so bushy. I supercropped the 4 tops of the MJ to keep them at the same hight of the toms. But now the toms are starting to near the end of their life and dying off and the MJs are branching out and sticking out like a sore thumb. There are branches galore I am assuming from the supercropping. It broke my heart but I had to pull one of the MJs to lessen the appearance of the MJ dominating the garden. You could see more MJ than tomato. It was only from bag seed that was good smoke. I'm not sure if I will leave the other one in there much longer. Depends on how much longer the toms last. And my neighbors are not what I would call "cool".
Bottom line I think it was the Osm+ that made my whole garden do so well.
I planted 2 plants which i topped at about a foot to keep them small amongst my tomatoes. I used Osm+ for the nutes on all. My tomatoes are about 6 ft tall and the best looking plants on the block however my MJ is about 7 ft. At first you could hardly see the MJ cause the tomatoes were so bushy. I supercropped the 4 tops of the MJ to keep them at the same hight of the toms. But now the toms are starting to near the end of their life and dying off and the MJs are branching out and sticking out like a sore thumb. There are branches galore I am assuming from the supercropping. It broke my heart but I had to pull one of the MJs to lessen the appearance of the MJ dominating the garden. You could see more MJ than tomato. It was only from bag seed that was good smoke. I'm not sure if I will leave the other one in there much longer. Depends on how much longer the toms last. And my neighbors are not what I would call "cool".
Bottom line I think it was the Osm+ that made my whole garden do so well.
I get the hole part 
just trying to figure out how much OC+; is it one tbsp per gallon of perlite? I have the drill ready just need to place an order for pots and the perlite/OC+ THink Im going to try using cfl's @ first.
just trying to figure out how much OC+; is it one tbsp per gallon of perlite? I have the drill ready just need to place an order for pots and the perlite/OC+ THink Im going to try using cfl's @ first.
Grower Z
New Member
This seems ridiculously obvious after reading it and perhaps explains why Docbud had more success with the Osomocote over the AN.
Maximizing Fertilizer Use and Minimizing Runoff
So who is going to be the first try OC+ in an ebb and flow table?
It seems as if the Scotts marketing people only knew what they had their hands on, they could blow the doors off of every liquid "nute" company in the country and change the very nature of the "hydro-store" business.
Maximizing Fertilizer Use and Minimizing Runoff
Use fertilizers that release low levels of nutrients in the runoff. Typically, a greater percentage of the nutrients in controlled-release fertilizers are absorbed by the plants and not lost as leachate. The nutrient efficiency (retention) of greenhouse irrigation systems was increased if 50 or 100 percent of fertilizer was supplied by controlled-release fertilizers as compared with 100 percent constant liquid fertilization. Fertilizing with 100 percent constant liquid fertilizer caused higher concentrations of nutrients to be released to the environment with no increase in growth or quality (pictured on page 36). The nutrient retention of controlled-release fertilizers was greatly increased with the use of ebb-and-flow irrigation, which produced large, high-quality plants and released small volumes of runoff with low nutrient content.
So who is going to be the first try OC+ in an ebb and flow table?
It seems as if the Scotts marketing people only knew what they had their hands on, they could blow the doors off of every liquid "nute" company in the country and change the very nature of the "hydro-store" business.
Re: To BIG to hide
Yeah, as you learned, if you're planting outside in a garden for stealth purposes, it pays to train the plants right down to the ground. I hope that you've determined the sex of the plants - it would suck to have pulled a female and left a male.
Does the plant appear to have much sativa in its genes? If so, it might be one of (if not THE) last thing in your garden that's green and healthy at the end of the growing season. Many strains finish in October or November. And some strains that are mostly sativa can get really tall. I once saw a plant that was around 21' tall (owner wasn't very bright and did not do any training). It probably would have finished around the end of December, had it not been seen (and had it been planted in Southern MEXICO, lol).
If you can pin it down to a manageable height, maybe you can cover it with something that is lightproof for 12 hours every night until some time after the Autumnal Equinox (September 22nd, I believe)? At that point, the day/night lengths will be the same but you might need to go a little longer if it is not completely dark where the plant is.
That might be one good reason to consider autoflowering strains - they are not photoperiod dependent as far as when they start to flower. Many will finish around 70 days from the time they break ground. Most of them don't get very big (or produce much) at all, but as you've already seen, a plant that might produce over a pound isn't helpful if you've got to pull it for security reasons. But with autos, you might have been able to plant several here and there. Find a strain that's low-odor (or one that smells like anything but the traditional skunk cannabis smell) and add several aromatic herbs to your garden and many people wouldn't notice if they were in your backyard.
Yeah, as you learned, if you're planting outside in a garden for stealth purposes, it pays to train the plants right down to the ground. I hope that you've determined the sex of the plants - it would suck to have pulled a female and left a male.
Does the plant appear to have much sativa in its genes? If so, it might be one of (if not THE) last thing in your garden that's green and healthy at the end of the growing season. Many strains finish in October or November. And some strains that are mostly sativa can get really tall. I once saw a plant that was around 21' tall (owner wasn't very bright and did not do any training). It probably would have finished around the end of December, had it not been seen (and had it been planted in Southern MEXICO, lol).
If you can pin it down to a manageable height, maybe you can cover it with something that is lightproof for 12 hours every night until some time after the Autumnal Equinox (September 22nd, I believe)? At that point, the day/night lengths will be the same but you might need to go a little longer if it is not completely dark where the plant is.
That might be one good reason to consider autoflowering strains - they are not photoperiod dependent as far as when they start to flower. Many will finish around 70 days from the time they break ground. Most of them don't get very big (or produce much) at all, but as you've already seen, a plant that might produce over a pound isn't helpful if you've got to pull it for security reasons. But with autos, you might have been able to plant several here and there. Find a strain that's low-odor (or one that smells like anything but the traditional skunk cannabis smell) and add several aromatic herbs to your garden and many people wouldn't notice if they were in your backyard.
Doc,
How should I mix the oc+ into my promix, and at what times/durations during the cycles?
Do I feed every time I transplant? Feed once, then again when in final container? Can I simply sprinkle the OC right on top of the soil as needed, and water in?
Thanks. SS I think I pm'd you on this, if your reading.
Thanks Doc, and everybody else for their input!
-Go
How should I mix the oc+ into my promix, and at what times/durations during the cycles?
Do I feed every time I transplant? Feed once, then again when in final container? Can I simply sprinkle the OC right on top of the soil as needed, and water in?
Thanks. SS I think I pm'd you on this, if your reading.
Thanks Doc, and everybody else for their input!
-Go
I would incorporate it into the top 2/3 of the media. Use the max dose.
The prills will last 2-4 months, depending on the temp in your grow room. Just keep an eye on things, and if the plants look like they're not getting enough food, put another Tbsp on top. Don't worry about working it in, etc. Just water thoroughly....no one gets hurt.
Or...if you want you can put off of it on top....as long as you water thoroughly each time you water, the plant will get everything it needs.
I know of two local outdoor grows using OC+ and both growers are very happy.
If you see Big Mike, from AN, make sure you let him know how much you like OC+
i cant just have the OC+ on top of my perlite mix and it will still feed my plants i dont have to mix it all the way down towards my damn hole? i wanted to feed my girls now with some OC+ but dont want to dig around and mess with the roots.
Ive been looking all day today for some cheap plant food but at the end the OC+ seems to be the best. i found most dont have cal/mag or other micro's. one of the food i found had a nice NPK and all the good stuff but it was bone meal and alfalfa and other organic stuff that wouldn't probably do good in hydro.
1 tbsp per gallon right? Is that the general rule at this point?
Thanks for your input Doc! Muchly appreciated!!!
I can't wait for the OC, I have 3 jugs en-route! Also some new stuff to replace my expensive as hell iguana juice. Which I can use in conjunction with the OC, I have a thread somewhere about it. I think in the products forum area. I cant' remember...
Nobody has responded yet though. lol
Thanks Doc!
Thanks for your input Doc! Muchly appreciated!!!
I can't wait for the OC, I have 3 jugs en-route! Also some new stuff to replace my expensive as hell iguana juice. Which I can use in conjunction with the OC, I have a thread somewhere about it. I think in the products forum area. I cant' remember...
Nobody has responded yet though. lol
Thanks Doc!
That is what I am gathering from him Irish. I think SS is doing it as well, so you can hit him up on that too. Doc seems to be in the know, considering his starting with the OC+.
I say go for it bro. Just a matter of how much. I tend to be cautious.
-Go
That is what I am gathering from him Irish. I think SS is doing it as well, so you can hit him up on that too. Doc seems to be in the know, considering his starting with the OC+.
I say go for it bro. Just a matter of how much. I tend to be cautious.
-Go
na SS told me different that it should be mixed in threw out the medium. not just on top.
Grower Z
New Member
I just transplanted 14 blueberry seedlings into 2 gallon Hempy buckets.
A 60/40 coir/perlite mix. All 14 were amended with 2 tablespoons of Gypsum (for Calcium). Seven were amended with OC+ and the other seven will be fed with Peters Hydro + Calcium Nitrate + Epsom salts. My tap water has very low alkalinity - 45 ppm.
A 60/40 coir/perlite mix. All 14 were amended with 2 tablespoons of Gypsum (for Calcium). Seven were amended with OC+ and the other seven will be fed with Peters Hydro + Calcium Nitrate + Epsom salts. My tap water has very low alkalinity - 45 ppm.
That sounds ideal Irish. I would run with that then. I will remain firm that sprinkling on top, most likely at a later date, wouldn't hurt, if in fact there was a deficiency. To each their own though, ya know? That's what makes the world the world. Each one of us can do just what the hell we want. We all work towards one goal, but that doesn't mean there is only one road to get there.
Keep us updated, as some roads are better than others! lol!
Peace bro.
-Go
Keep us updated, as some roads are better than others! lol!
Peace bro.
-Go
Sure, just add it to the top and make sure water washes over it when you water. It'll work just fine.
I read some studies that showed that it works better when mixed evenly throughout the medium, but it will still work if you top-dress it, just not quite as well.
Yep. Not quite as efficient, but with enough water and prills, the plant won't know the difference.
what would you guys says enough? ill dump the whole thing on top.lol.
na i just dont want to mess with my roots, i am trying to figure out if i should just stick to my maxi bloom or use some OC+?
what about the food i was talking about on my grow the MG shake and feed contuios feed bloom food. the only bad thing is that it dosent have any cal/mag i would have to add some. but you think that would work better for top dressing?
HorseBadoritz
Well-Known Member
Irish, I'm not saying this is the way but it's a way...
I water in one spot opposite the damn hole. When I've added more OC, I just wallow out a little perlite there, drop in a scoop, and cover it up. When I just put prills on the top, watering would bounce them all over the place.
