Organic Grow

[Blue Planet Nutrients]

I have never used happy frog but astonr420 was using it in his grow and he was having trouble getting it to dry out. If it were me, I would add a little perlite. It makes it sooo much easier to flush if you run into problems.

Hey TCK, I was kind of wondering why you think those leaves are curling inward. Sometimes leaves that look like that are a symptom of over watering. What do you think? Also, Your plants are a pretty good size, you can definitely up the BLOOM if needed.

 

[4twenty4all]

I have never used happy frog but astonr420 was using it in his grow and he was having trouble getting it to dry out. If it were me, I would add a little perlite. It makes it sooo much easier to flush if you run into problems.

Hey TCK, I was kind of wondering why you think those leaves are curling inward. Sometimes leaves that look like that are a symptom of over watering. What do you think? Also, Your plants are a pretty good size, you can definitely up the BLOOM if needed.

I'd normally agree but, if this plant in the back left is a strong sativa it's possible that it could also be a sign of over fertilization. I have found that big pure sativas usually prefer light nutrients. Crimson, can you give an answer? I'm curious.....

Looking great by the way!

 

[Steve McStoferson]

I have never used happy frog but astonr420 was using it in his grow and he was having trouble getting it to dry out. If it were me, I would add a little perlite. It makes it sooo much easier to flush if you run into problems.

Hey TCK, I was kind of wondering why you think those leaves are curling inward. Sometimes leaves that look like that are a symptom of over watering. What do you think? Also, Your plants are a pretty good size, you can definitely up the BLOOM if needed.

happy frog is my soil of choice i swear by the stuff, and I've used a decent amount of soil out there, I for some reason can't get it to stay wet, I generally have to water daily, when they're in 3 gallon pots I water every 2 days so the soil definitely dries out. I've been trying to figure out why the leaves are doing that, I think slight heat stress as they like to stretch and before I know it, it's about 5" from the bulb. I have done some experimenting with this plant as it's in its 3rd generation of clones, and when I don't feed it at all, it still curls, and yellows very quickly. I'm getting better growth than before and no yellowing, so I'm thinking it could be genetic, I've never had any other plants do this, and it does it consistently each generation. I have another SLH seed I might just pop and see if the pheno is better.

I was actually about to up the dosage and I looked at the chart and monster bloom and bloom are the same, with monster bloom having 3ml less G, are you saying I can up the bloom higher than 20ml/gal? I know the wonder woman will love some more, it just takes whatever you throw at it and goes nuts haha

I'd normally agree but, if this plant in the back left is a strong sativa it's possible that it could also be a sign of over fertilization. I have found that big pure sativas usually prefer light nutrients. Crimson, can you give an answer? I'm curious.....

Looking great by the way!

it is mostly sativa, its greenhouses super lemon haze. I agree they like lighter feedings, seem to be more sensitive to nutes, since transplanting them into bigger pots, I'm going to let them explore the new containers for a couple of days before feeding again, see if the curling picks up or not. If they start yellowing, I'll resume feeding.

Thinking again, I don't feel it would be overfed since I'm using all organic nutrients and the highest they have been fed is 550ppm. ph has been stable each time, I double check it. I'll see what happens with some plan water, she will tell me what she wants.

 

[Blue Planet Nutrients]

Ya, you can add more. The feeding schedule is just a guideline. It is very common for folks to over feed so I was conservative when I created the feed schedule.

 

[Steve McStoferson]

nice, I'll kick it up a bit higher tonight when I feed the wonderW's. The buds are looking better than ever at this stage, I can't wait for 7 weeks from now lol

 

[Steve McStoferson]

how will i know when too much is too much? I mean don't organics tend to not burn the plants, or will I be seeing something if I give them too much?

 

[Truth Seeker]

ok sorry I couldn't chime in earlier, I have been studying like crazy, it's finals week!!! anyways, as TCK had pointed out to me earlier, I went straight into a 5 gallon bucket, so there wasn't really enough roots to take the moisture, so you should start off small til the roots take off!!! and if your going to be using BPN, make sure you use the Root Magic, that stuff really works for the roots!!!

 

[Steve McStoferson]

ok sorry I couldn't chime in earlier, I have been studying like crazy, it's finals week!!! anyways, as TCK had pointed out to me earlier, I went straight into a 5 gallon bucket, so there wasn't really enough roots to take the moisture, so you should start off small til the roots take off!!! and if your going to be using BPN, make sure you use the Root Magic, that stuff really works for the roots!!!

this is what I do, step up the container size slowly, and I'm sure it's why my pots always dry out so fast. I have been using the root magic, I see happy frog contains some of it in there, so it can only help

Good luck on the finals man, I've been there too many times before lol

 

[Blue Planet Nutrients]

how will i know when too much is too much? I mean don't organics tend to not burn the plants, or will I be seeing something if I give them too much?

Organics can burn plants but not as fast as chemical fert does. It typically takes time for the organics to be broken down and it may take a while to show up under certain circumstances.
There is a greater risk of burning with the Grow because it contains highly composted high N bat guano, blood meal, and fish meal. All of which have readily available nitrogen and are kind of hot ingredients.

The FP Bloom has almost no N and the main ingredient is fossilized high P bat guano which is composted making it more quickly available for plant uptake but not as readily available as chemical fert. The other P containing ingredients are bone meal, soft rock phosphate, and a little fish meal. The P in the bone meal and rock phosphate is very slow to medium release.
It is tough to burn your plants with high P organics and high levels of phosphate are typically not associated with burning your plants. I recommend really pouring the bloom to the plants during the last 5 weeks of flowering. High P levels can cause Copper and Zinc deficiencies by locking them out but that is rare with organic P fertilizers. I am not worried about over dosing with P, especially during the last 5 weeks. I think it is safe to pour the bloom to it for best results.
I highly recommend keeping the ppm's in your aerated bucket around 1000 ppm for your larger flowering plants and feed about twice a week. That is a good number to keep it at and you can get there by adding fert and/or water to dilute. Follow the feed schedule for the other products but use more bloom to raise the ppms. You can tell if your plant's leaves are getting burned if they start to look kind of cripsy and spotted between the veins and have a kind of rough crispy appearance. If you see this, Flush.

IMO, the greater threat of over ferting your plants is when you have something out of balance like pH or too much salt accumulation in your grow medium and you are pouring the fert to plants which exacerbates the problem because something else is causing the nutrient deficiencies, not lack of fert and crap just builds up in the soil. As long as your soil is healthy and the right pH with no salt build up from chemical ferts or hard water, pour the bloom to it during flowering stage

 

[Steve McStoferson]

you always have the best explanations for why things happen, and I really appreciate you stopping in here to share this information with everyone.

I have a problem on my SLH flowering plants, this issue happens every time, so I'm really stumped, but i feel its related to the clawing leaves. The very top of each tip is starting to yellow in the veins, pretty much on all tips. I raised my light so it's about 12" from the top now, but my wonder woman isn't showing any signs of it, I have to stress this is what has happened to every plant I've flowered from this seed.

I'll be posting some pics in a second.

 

[Steve McStoferson]

Last night I fed the vegging plants, all is going well over there

Flowering plants, not so well.. As I mentioned in the above post, my SLH is forming yellow from the veins, which is typically what I run into with this pheno around this point in flowering, and for some reason can't figure out how to prevent it.

My ph has been spot on with every feed and watering. I will re calibrate my meter tonight just to be on the safe side. I noticed all plants are forming slight rust spotting on older fan leaves. It's very small, but I'm noticing it more. my tap water isn't really that hard, it runs at 150ppm / ph @ 7.5. I always adjust the ph before watering with anything.

here are some pics of it

and the wonder woman plants are doing well, they're getting slight rust spots on older leaves. Not sure if i should worry about that just yet. If anyone has any insight, feel free to share it with me

this one is stacking very nicely

And we go to the veg room where everything is a lush green. It's only been a couple days since the last update, and already they're growing, showing no transplant shock.
13ml g 7.5ml b 5ml m
2.5ml kbud 5ml dark matter 5ml bio juice

left side

right side

Check out the colas forming on the 2 widow plants

this one shows the new tops coming out of the left cola, 3rd round of topping going well

the other widow, only topped once

 

[Steve McStoferson]

I'm very impressed with how these plants are eating, the pictures don't do the plants justice, they're the greenest plants I've ever grown, the stems and the leaves are identical in color, generally my stems are more brown and somewhat striped.

 

[Steve McStoferson]

on further research, it looks like a zinc deficiency? looks like my ph may be a tad too high since its typically around 6.8.. I'm going to try dropping it to 6.4-6.6 and see if that helps any. Anyone run into zinc defs and can confirm if this is or isn't one?

I'm not really sure I'd call it a deficiency though as I've been feeding them the micro with each feeding, and the micro has it, so thats why I'm leaning towards maybe my ph being a tad too high? What is the ph range for zinc to be absorbed, I know iron and mag is below 6.5

 

[HomeMedGrower]

 

[Steve McStoferson]

zinc isn't on there bro judging by the sheet, I do need to drop it to 6.5 though cause iron and mag are probably locked out. I'm no pro, so feel free to correct my assumptions

 

[HomeMedGrower]

Just noticed that it was not on there.

Zinc (Zn) Micro Nutrient and an Immobile element.

Zinc plays a lot of roles in the plants, first off zinc aids in the plants size and maturity as well as production of leaves, stalks, stems and branches. Zinc is an essential component in many enzymes as well as growth hormone auxin .Low auxin levels can be the cause of stunting of the plants leaves and the shoots. Zinc is also important in the formation and activity of chlorophyll. Plants that have a good level of Zinc, can handle long droughts. So that's why Zinc plants an important role how it absorbs moisture.

Zinc deficiencies on some plants will have the Spotting and bleached spots (chlorosis) between the veins first appears on the older leaves first, and then goes on to the immature leaves. It will then start to slowly affect tips of growing points of the plants. When the zinc deficiency happens so suddenly, the spotting can appear to be the same symptoms to that of an iron and manganese, without the seeing the little leaf symptom.
Zinc is not mobile in plants so the symptoms will occur mainly in the newer growths. Having a plant that is deficiency in Zinc can cause small crops, short shoots and have a cluster of small distorted leaves near the tips. Between the veins (Interveinal) yellowing is often combined with overall paleness. Pale or grayish, yellowing between the veins; rosetted weak is the signs of a Zinc deficiency.
With a low level of zinc in your plants, your yields will be dramatically reduced.
Interveinal chlorosis is present in the small, narrow distorted leaves at the ends of really shortened shoots and the shortening between internodes. Leaf margins are often distorted or wrinkled. These nutrients will get locked out due to high pH: Zinc, Iron, and Manganese. These deficiencies will often occur together. Parts affected by a zinc deficiency are young leaves and petioles.

Having an excess of Zinc is very rare, but when it does happen it can cause wilting and in worse cases death.

Problems with Zinc being locked out by PH troubles

High ph, Low organic matter, High Phosphorus levels in the soil, and or lack of nitrogen.

Soil

Zinc gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.5-4.7, 7.5-9.5
Zinc absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 5.0-7.0 (Wouldn't recommend having a soil ph of over 7.0 in soil) Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Zinc Deficiency.

Hydro and Soil less Mediums

Zinc gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 5.7-8.5
Zinc is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.0-5.5 (Wouldn't recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Zinc Deficiency.

Solution to fixing a Zinc deficiency
Any Chemical/Organic nutrients that have potassium in them will fix a Zinc deficiency. (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients or it will cause nutrient burn!)
And any of the following nutrients will fix a zinc deficiency: Zinc sulfate, zinc chelated, or zinc oxides are adequate fertilizer sources for zinc. Or you can bury galvanized nails in the soil. (Make sure you take off the sharp point at the end to prevent roots from being damaged) Garden Manure, which is slow acting. Greensands, Cottonseed Meal are both medium/slow absorption as well.

Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics,( which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) You need to Flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients.

 

[Steve McStoferson]

Thanks for posting that, thats the information I was looking for, I'm a little confused now since it says the best range for zinc is 5-7 in soil, mine is always between 6.3-6.8, more on the 6.8 side of things.

I've been feeding lightly and just worked my way up to full strength, at the same time, I'm still below 600ppm's when I feed. Could it maybe be that these girls are much hungrier than the wonder woman? I really don't think I have salt buildup, I have just transplanted into new pots, the roots look quite healthy, I've been using strictly organics with them, so I really don't think I have salt buildup.

Only thing I can think is my ph tester is out of whack, or I'm not feeding them enough

 

[HomeMedGrower]

Thanks for posting that, thats the information I was looking for, I'm a little confused now since it says the best range for zinc is 5-7 in soil, mine is always between 6.3-6.8, more on the 6.8 side of things.

I've been feeding lightly and just worked my way up to full strength, at the same time, I'm still below 600ppm's when I feed. Could it maybe be that these girls are much hungrier than the wonder woman? I really don't think I have salt buildup, I have just transplanted into new pots, the roots look quite healthy, I've been using strictly organics with them, so I really don't think I have salt buildup.

Only thing I can think is my ph tester is out of whack, or I'm not feeding them enough

Do you have a soil PH meter or are you just checking the PH of the runoff.

 

[Steve McStoferson]

I haven't tested the runoff, I test the solution before it goes into the plants. I will calibrate and test the runoff tonight, if I understand correctly, if theres a significant ph difference in the runoff, that is a sign of excess salts in the medium right?

 

[Steve McStoferson]

and my ph tester is a digital Milwaukee ph600