Rqs says this:Once soil temperatures drop below 12°C, a cannabis plant's metabolism starts to slow down considerably. As it does, the plant will struggle to take up water, nutrients, and oxygen from its soil, and many of the enzymatic processes needed to fuel its growth will come to a standstill.Dec
Same here more or less
Im thinking about harvesting this weekend.
Plants are growing faster in the vegetating stage. More leaf, stem and root growth. Once into flowering the development of new roots slows way down as does the growth of new leaves. Stem growth pretty much stops after the 'stretch.
Nope.
The leaves turning brown and dropping off the plant. Not the branches drooping and bending over from the weight of the buds.
The container starts to cool off as soon as the air surrounding it drops in temperature. Real good chance that the entire pot of soil is the same temperature as the air before sunrise. Then it will take several hours for it to warm back up. I have tested this with my indoor tent and noticed that the soil is the same as the air temp just before the lights turn off and them the same temp as the air by the time the lights come on 13 hours later.
Yes, the buds look good as do the trichomes. But, the plant looks like it has the classic signs of an ongoing overdose which is why some of us made the suggestion to show photos of the entire plant. When we see just samples of a few leaves and buds it is harder to tell what is happening since often it will look like typical Potassium deficiencies.
You're flushing to remove the accumulated salts from the chelated fertilizer, if you don't do this no amount of fertilizer will help, as the nutrients are locked out. Flush the salts out (3x pot volume of water), then go back to feeding as you have been. I would never recommend flushing to remove nutrients and then stop feeding until harvest..
"eal good chance that even through those leaves are very brown they are not crispy and might feel soft and sometimes wet."As mentioned in the earlier post I have been playing around with overdosing my plants as part of seeing just how far down the hobby rabbit-hole I want to go. What I see in your photos is the same as I have found on my plants.
The first photo below is one of yours from those you posted earlier today. It is a copy of the one you posted with the file number ending in 5703.
Circle #1 shows dead leaves and stems located close to the very bottom of the plant. Real good chance that even through those leaves are very brown they are not crispy and might feel soft and sometimes wet. The stems are dying or already dead but will not snap off. Any smaller buds inside this area have died. Once started this kind of damage can slowly work its way up into the newer or younger plant leaves and stems. I see what looks like the stems shrinking as the damage moves closer to the main stem. Same sorts of damage I have seen on my overdosed plants.
Circle #2 shows that the older and smaller fan leaves sticking out the bud have died back. Most of us accept some browning of the tips of the sugar leaves and most of the time we will be able to cut them off. Those brown sugar leaves might be brown all the way into the bud. Good chance that if you can follow the leaf Petiole (the stalk that joins a leaf to the stem) you might notice that where it meets the plant stem it is still thick and looks alive. But the closer the Petiole is to the brown leaf the skinnier it has become since it has shut down and is dying.
Circle #3 shows something that looks like a dead bud but I cant tell for sure. It could also be a bunch of dead leaves. If it is a bud that died I doubt that there are any tricomes left.
Then this photo below is one that was cropped out of your photo that ended in the file numbers 5610. Those little small white or gray dots on the sugar leaves do look like the typical damage done by Mites. I get the same sort of thing happening on sugar leaves. Thoughts are that this is caused by younger mites which are small and very hard to see which is why we do not notice them when we look at the tops and bottoms of the bud's sugar leaves.
Also the typical mite we experience on our plants, the 2-spotted mite, will survive down to freezing. I have read that most of them will tolerate below freezing if they are protected by going into the soil or under fallen leaves or into small spaces or cracks in the stems of a plant.
No, just that leaf growth slows down and stops, stem growth slows down and stops. Fertilizing still has to go on because once in flowering the plant is now growing flowers instead. And, flower and fruit growth is very demanding so the plant still needs the nutrients from the fertilizer mixes.
The damage is on the newer leaves. All those little dots are where the mites were chewing on the leaf surface so they could start to feed on the plant juices.
Im confused to what should i do next grow?
deficiency and overfeeding basically look the same sometimes
Yes. When looking through the Mega Crop website there are several times when the company mentions allowing 2 to 3 weeks for any changes in the dosage of fertilizer to have an effect. If we can spot an issue as it is first starting to show then we can change dosage or add a nutrient to the feeding schedule and have a good chance that there will be a change for the better. If we wait too long then there might not be enough time to fix a problem.
Yes, that can become a problem. Some of the messages on page one mention "lock-out". A lock-out is often an overdose of one or more nutrients causing what looks like the deficiency of another nutrient. This other nutrient is in the fertilizer but the plant cannot use it so it can look like a deficiency even though is enough in the growing medium.It ain't that easy
Are you measuring the Mega Crop by weight (grams) or by volume (US teaspoon)? The numbers you mention in the first message are right for the age of your grow but I was wondering if there is a bit more MC being used by mistake.
You can consider doing a journal and inviting the other Mega Crop growers to check in. And invite other outdoor growers, especially those who grow in a container. If these growers are checking the journal every now and then they might notice something starting to go wrong with the dose or on the plant before it becomes a problem.
