Nutes: What To Use & How To Use Them Tutorial

They started to perk back up. How do I water to fully wet the soil, but not over water?
Am I supposed to water until a little drains out the bottom of the pot? Should I pour the water around the edge of the pot so it runs down the side?
 
If your plants have grown past the seedling stage I would water them until you just see runoff coming from the bottom. Do not let your plants sit in standing water as it can cause root rot. You want to evenly wet the surface of your medium and allow the moisture to gravitate down and wet your medium slowly, ideally you would not have any run down the sides of the pot without wetting your medium. Lift the pots so you get a feel for when they are light and dry and heavy and wet. You can also place you finger 1-2 inches into the soil and feel how moist the soil is. Ideally you will water your plants again before the pots dry and the plants begin to droop but allow enough time for the plant to use what nutrients and water you have provided.
 
25 tomato seeds @ 1.99 I would not mind taking my chances "throwing seeds into the ground and letting nature take its course", cannabis seeds ranging from $4-$30 per 1, seed I will give the seeds every advantage to manage my investment.
 
I am a first time grower I am using the dwc method, and am using wild thing nutes a,b,&m. Just wondering how often and how much nutes are recommended and how often should I change the water?
 
Okay TOTAL NOOB here and I apologize in advance. I am attempting to grow Jack Herer Autoflower from seed in a grow tent. I have the Big Boy Hydroponics system from HTG. I have an 8 bulb T5 Cfl, and I have Fox Farm Nutes. Is there ANY possibility you could give me some sort of starting regiment as far as nutes and ph? I keep reading mixed opinions on PH on here, anywhere between 5.2 all the way to 6.1...it's all so confusing, I swear there is almost TOO much information and choices....HELP! I hope I have provided enough information.
 
Here is the FoxFarm soil nutrient feed schedule

Foxfarm_Soil_Systems_Feeding_Schedule.jpeg



Here is the FoxFarm hydroponic nutrient feed schedule

Foxfarm_Hydroponic_Feeding_schedule.jpg



You want pH 5.8 for hydroponic and soiless (peat moss and coco coir) and pH 6.5 for soil.

Here is a nutrient availability chart

pH_chart7.jpg
 
I add molasses, at 1 Tbsp/gallon, to every feeding and watering. Other growers only add the last 2 weeks before harvest. Anytime inbetween is fine. A warm mist humidifier is preferred if you consistenly need to increase the temps within your grow environment. Likewise, a cool mist humidifier is preferred if you consisitently need to decrease the temps.
 
ColoradoHigh said:
I add molasses, at 1 Tbsp/gallon, to every feeding and watering. Other growers only add the last 2 weeks before harvest. Anytime inbetween is fine. A warm mist humidifier is preferred if you consistenly need to increase the temps within your grow environment. Likewise, a cool mist humidifier is preferred if you consisitently need to decrease the temps.
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Thanks CH !:Namaste:
 
I am at Week 6/5. I started using MGPS from the start without knowing any better. I started six seeds using tap water saturated Jiffy Pellets. They sat on my window sill until stretching far enough that the tops just about touch the soil after bending over. I then transplanted the pellets into two inch Jiffy Pots. I placed the pellets in first and added MGPS to the pot to bury the stem leaving about a half inch beneath the top. Still growing aggressively I put them under lights, CFL's, 500w's 6500k. Once again, after getting 6 to 8 inches high I added the Jiffy Pot's to some 5" round plastic pots. I simply dropped the Jiffy Pots into each pot and filled them again with MGPS. Before I knew it I had a tub full of nice healthy plants.

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Between 8 and 10 weeks I turned over to flowering. Early into flowering I changed pots once more. They are all in 7 inch square pots, well four of them are, I ended up with four females from the six seeds. One plant, the smallest of the six, I moved outside. It hasn't flowered yet, but has the appearance of being a female. So four out of the five, turned out to be female, and one being a male. He showed himself 7 days later in a 12/12 cycle.

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Not realizing anything about using the MGPS and I should have, I add extra doses of MGPF in veg and MGBB in flower. I ended up really toasting on plant.

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After several flushes she came back. From that day I started reading more into it and came to realize what I did wrong. Since then I've only added a 1/4 of the dose of MGBB in week 5.

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I've only added two feedings of molasses at a teaspoon per gallon twice. Today after flushing four plants with three gallons of water I finished with a feeding with molasses at two teaspoons per gallon. From now on it's flushing, followed by more flushing. The pistils are showing signs of retreat and the pollen sacks are swelling. Their sticky and stinky with a nice piney odor, but resembles more of the molasses.
This was my second grow attempt. I learned a lot. I'll be looking for yellow leaves now. Once that begins I'll know the extra flushing's are working. Once that starts I'll back off on the flushing and let the plant do it's own thing. MGPS worked great, but this is all a test. So next time, it's a custom mix soil and a different feeding and flower food regime.
 
my question is . if im using ffof cut with light warrior and lime-rite.. were on the feeding chart do i start if my soil has enough nutrients for the first month . or do i just use the schedule as it reads with lighter doses ..in my first grow i waited almost five weeks before adding nutrients to the soil .. the plants were fine and never showed and issue but i cant help but wonder if they would have been bigger if i would have started sooner .
 
Hey, snooper. I need some help and maybe you can answer a couple of questions for me if you are of a mind to do so. I have almost killed a lot of my plants in the past when I flushed them so I must do it wrong. Can I ask how you flush yours. I know this should be basic knowledge but for me it is not. Any help will be appreciated. Just for information I custom mix all of my growing medium. I use 80% Canadian Sphagnum peat moss, 20 % perlite. Buy the way you have some nice looking plants pics posted here, not the burned up ones but the others. Hope all is well with you and your ladies. Keep it green. Thanks in advance for any info you may be able to pass on to me.
 
devils letuce said:
my question is . if im using ffof cut with light warrior and lime-rite.. were on the feeding chart do i start if my soil has enough nutrients for the first month . or do i just use the schedule as it reads with lighter doses ..in my first grow i waited almost five weeks before adding nutrients to the soil .. the plants were fine and never showed and issue but i cant help but wonder if they would have been bigger if i would have started sooner .
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I would not start to add any nutrients to your soil mixture until your bottom leaves just begin to yellow. When you begin to add nutrients I would start with a 1/4 strength dose and see how your plants react, if you notice any yellowing or browning tips on your leaves that is a sign of nutrient burn and your nutrient strength should be reduced.

You want pH 5.8 for hydroponic and soiless (peat moss and coco coir) and pH 6.5 for soil.

Here is a nutrient availability chart

pH_chart7.jpg



Here is a cannabis leaf deficiency chart

cannabis_leaf-deficiencies31.jpg



here is the Cannabis Plant and Pest Problem Solver and the Plant Abuse Chart

Cannabis Plant and Pest Problem Solver: Pictorial

Plant Abuse Chart
 
greenstuff said:
Hey, snooper. I need some help and maybe you can answer a couple of questions for me if you are of a mind to do so. I have almost killed a lot of my plants in the past when I flushed them so I must do it wrong. Can I ask how you flush yours. I know this should be basic knowledge but for me it is not. Any help will be appreciated. Just for information I custom mix all of my growing medium. I use 80% Canadian Sphagnum peat moss, 20 % perlite. Buy the way you have some nice looking plants pics posted here, not the burned up ones but the others. Hope all is well with you and your ladies. Keep it green. Thanks in advance for any info you may be able to pass on to me.
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When I flush my plants medium I use a plastic milk crate in the bathtub and place the pot on the milk crate to allow the water to drain through the medium. I would use at least twice the volume of pH adjusted water as pot size to flush your plants medium.

Here is my soiless mixture

I use peat moss, perlite, vermiculite and mycorrhizae and bacteria for my plants. I would mix your soiless mixture in a ratio of 60% peat moss, 20% perlite and 20% vermiculite. If you can get Pro-Mix HP you would only need to add 20% vermiculite and mycorrhizae. Vermiculite acts as a catalyst between nutrients and the plants roots as well as retaining moisture.

PRO-MIX_HP_MYCORRHIZAE.jpg




PRO-MIX HP Mycorrhizae - High porosity peat-based growing medium


https://www.hydro-organics.com earth juice rooters mycorrhizae

Pro-Mix HP has 1 species of mycorrhizae added, I add 10 others species of mycorrhizae and more of the strain already contained in Pro-Mix HP. When I transplant my plants to larger size pots I use 1 teaspoon per 1 gallon size pot and 2 teaspoons per 3-5 gallon size pot of additional mycorrhizae granules.
 
KingJohnC said:
I would not start to add any nutrients to your soil mixture until your bottom leaves just begin to yellow. When you begin to add nutrients I would start with a 1/4 strength dose and see how your plants react, if you notice any yellowing or browning tips on your leaves that is a sign of nutrient burn and your nutrient strength should be reduced.

You want pH 5.8 for hydroponic and soiless (peat moss and coco coir) and pH 6.5 for soil.

Here is a nutrient availability chart

pH_chart7.jpg



Here is a cannabis leaf deficiency chart

cannabis_leaf-deficiencies31.jpg



here is the Cannabis Plant and Pest Problem Solver and the Plant Abuse Chart

Cannabis Plant and Pest Problem Solver: Pictorial

Plant Abuse Chart
Click to expand...

thanks for the fast response
 
Hi all, first time post here as I am new to the community. I have been growing for about two years now and just switched my nutrients around from medi one (which I did not like at all) to dyna gro and dyna bloom.I am also using liquid w8 durring the flower stage to add more sugar and crystal formations on the last stage. I have done a ton or reaserch on different nutrients that are out now and have seen and heard both good and bad reviews on the success of each variety of nutirents other growers have used.-

My garden has never had a successful bounty, the medi one we used dropped the pH down to 3.3 and had to use pH up but never had a yeild of more than an ounce per plant. We have two 250watt cfl lights for veg and two 600watt hps for flower and know that we should average 1gm per watt. Now that I just switched to dyna gro products I flushed all of our plants very heavily to get rid of salt build up and am waiting for 3-5 days before I begin the new treatments with dyna gro/bloom as well as the liquid w8 as stated previously.-

If anyone can pass on some other helpful steps or if you have used the dyna gro products I would love to hear what you have to say. Many people recommend fox farms or advanced nutrients but they are a little too expensive for me right now. Thanks all, I'm all ears!
 
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