Nutes: What To Use & How To Use Them Tutorial

I got another good question for u. I've researching a product of mycorrhizae by biotabs called mycortex. They also have a product called bactrex. . I've read up on both products but can't really see the difference in the two. They both seem to have beneficial microbes and fungi. What's the difference in the two? Im sure I can't go wrong supplementing ff happy frog soil with these two products right. Any suggestions will help
 
"Bactrex is a dry, water-soluble powder containing a high number of beneficial bacteria for the roots (including 6 stains of Bacillus spp.), Fungi (Trichoderma), and actinomycetes. These ingredients have been carefully selected for their favourable effect on the structure and fertility of the substrate.

Rhizobacteria are "packaged" in a soluble Yucca extract and organic catalysts to ensure rapid and vigorous colonization of roots."



"Mycortex is a granular biological inoculant containing a synergistic blend of fungal and bacterial species together with biostimulants. It is incorporated into the soil at the time of planting to generate a beneficial microclimate in the root zone.

The spread of microorganisms in MYCORTEX is derived from Biotechnica’s unique Bactolife culture which contains over 20 strains of beneficial bacteria in proper ratio to populate the soil and re-establish bio-activity. The blend includes Bacillus strains, Rhizobia, Azotobacteria (nitrogen fixers), Sacchoromyces and other natural strains. All contribute to the health of the soil and crop. There are no pathogens."

Bactrex is a dry, water-soluble powder that can be watered in, Mycortex is granular best used at time of transplant in soil mixtures. Both are mycorrhizae products that do not list their formulas, it is not possible to discern which is superior.
 
Concerning acidity during growing, what is the best method decrease acidity. I've read that dolomite is Ph neutral and will decrease acidity but takes a couple months to see affects. What is a more immediate or quickermethod to correct acidity problems of soil during a .
 
Yikes!!! I may have done a horrible thing...I might have time to stoop it if someone will tell me what's can happen here!!! I have blindly poured flower nutes in my little veg girls...Is this going to cause huge problems?...Anyone???...
 
superskunk61 said:
hopefuly not if u didnt add alot,remember take ur time,less is more,u can fix those problems,just slopwly lower ur ph in waterings,:goodluck::tokin::peacetwo:
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Thanks Punkin!!! I just sat and waited a couple of days and VOILA...No damage(that I can see)...I am a great big subscriber to the old less is more policy as well so I think we all got lucky this time! I have rinsed them since and looks like all that happened was they got a little darker...we shall see...Never did THAT one before! Thanks for the advice!:thanks:
 
i have to use RO water because my well water has so much salt in it. What problems should I expect from using RO water?
Thank you for your input.
 
thebizz420 said:
Hey king john what's a quicker way to correct Ph problems in my soil that's faster acting than dolomite lime
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I would use both Gypsum or calcium sulfate and Glacial Rock Dust to amend soil mixtures with a calcium and mineral pH buffer.

If you find that when you measure the pH of the first runoff liquid when you water and the pH of your medium is not in acceptable range I would flush your pot with at least twice the volume of pH adjusted liquid as pot size.

You want 70°-90° Fahrenheit and 50%-70% humidity for vegetative growth and 30%-50% humidity for flower.

You want pH 5.8 for hydroponic and soiless (peat moss and coco coir) and pH 6.5 for soil.


Here is a nutrient availability chart

pH_chart7.jpg



Here is a cannabis leaf deficiency chart

cannabis_leaf-deficiencies31.jpg



here is the Cannabis Plant and Pest Problem Solver and the Plant Abuse Chart

Cannabis Plant and Pest Problem Solver - Pictorial

Plant Abuse Chart
 
Toxxxic420 said:
i have to use RO water because my well water has so much salt in it. What problems should I expect from using RO water?
Thank you for your input.
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If you will be using Reverse Osmosis water for your plants you will also require a calcium and magnesium supplement to add back what the water is lacking.

I would introduce a calcium and magnesium supplement containing calcium nitrate and magnesium nitrate Such as Botanicare's Cal-Mag Plus after 2 good weeks of vegetative growth from a seedling. Cal-Mag Plus and CaliMagic are synthetic calcium and magnesium supplements. If you are using a natural source of calcium and magnesium based calcium and magnesium supplement such as General Organics CaMg+ you can start to add at the start of vegetative growth. I use Botanicare's Cal-Mag Plus at 5-8 milliliters or 1-1 1/2 teaspoon per gallon as a calcium and magnesium supplement for the majority of my cannabis plants.

(Click on the photographs for direct links to the products)







 
Hey king john I'm looking into buying some grow lights but wonder why slot of these packages cone with a 600w hps and another Mh bulb. Which one is used for vegetative and which one is for flowering
 
When using High Intensity Discharge we use Metal Halide light bulbs for vegetative growth and High Pressure Sodium light bulbs for flowering. Metal Halide light bulbs produce more blue spectrum in the 4200- 7500 Kelvin range useful for vegetative growth than High Pressure Sodium light bulbs which produce more red spectrum in the 3200-3700 Kelvin range and are used for flowering.
 
KingJohnC said:
If you will be using Reverse Osmosis water for your plants you will also require a calcium and magnesium supplement to add back what the water is lacking.

I would introduce a calcium and magnesium supplement containing calcium nitrate and magnesium nitrate Such as Botanicare's Cal-Mag Plus after 2 good weeks of vegetative growth from a seedling. Cal-Mag Plus and CaliMagic are synthetic calcium and magnesium supplements. If you are using a natural source of calcium and magnesium based calcium and magnesium supplement such as General Organics CaMg+ you can start to add at the start of vegetative growth. I use Botanicare's Cal-Mag Plus at 5-8 milliliters or 1-1 1/2 teaspoon per gallon as a calcium and magnesium supplement for the majority of my cannabis plants.

(Click on the photographs for direct links to the products)







Click to expand...


Thank you very much. I have heard when using RO you should use weakers strengths of nutrients because they are easier to absorb. I am growing autoberry ( soil w/20% coco coir, 80% fertilome basic potting soil, 600 watt metal halide for first 5 weeks . HPS until harvest) and the problem I am having is that as the plant gets about 4 weeks old the earliest fan leaves turn yellow within a week and die. Then the tips of the rest of the leaves curl and burn. I am using 3/4 strength nutrients except cal mag + and that is 1 1/2 tsp per gal. My plants are between 24 - 35 1/2 " the buds are very dense and very grapefruit citrus. I have yet to taste any blueberry..... Lol
 
How far above your plants is the High Pressure Sodium light hung? The cause of your yellowing and browning leaves may be from too low of nitrogen or your plants may be too far from the illumination source. Plants that are being fed Reverse Osmosis water have the same nutrients requirement as tap water, the pH must be correct as the last step before watering. Can you please post some photographs of the leaves on the plants and close up of the damaged leaves? Here is everything you should need to know to post full size photographs.

Photo Gallery Guide: How to Resize, Upload & Post Photos

Here are some chart that may help you

You may be able to lower your light. Place your hand underneath the light bulb to the point you can not feel any heat and move the light above your canopy to that height, raise the light as your plants grow.

Here are some lumen versus distance charts, they do not take heat into account

Metal_Halide_chart.jpg



HPS_chart.jpg



High_Intensity_Light_Coverage.jpg



grow-room-light-distances.jpg



HPSGraphPAR.jpg



You want 70°-90° Fahrenheit and 50%-70% humidity for vegetative growth and 30%-50% humidity for flower.

You want pH 5.8 for hydroponic and soiless (peat moss and coco coir) and pH 6.5 for soil.


Here is a nutrient availability chart

pH_chart7.jpg



Here is a cannabis leaf deficiency chart

cannabis_leaf-deficiencies31.jpg



here is the Cannabis Plant and Pest Problem Solver and the Plant Abuse Chart

Cannabis Plant and Pest Problem Solver - Pictorial

Plant Abuse Chart
 
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