New to hydro couple questions?

[Olie]

If you can stay in the low 50's you should be ok.
You have a lot af plant matter gassing of moisture in a small area and it might be difficult at times.
Lots of air circulation under the canopy helps.
Everything looks great my friend.


Stay safe
Bill284

Yea tell me about it can’t keep it under 60% with fan running at 100 percent. I Had to keep tent doors open to get it in the low 50s hunidity spiked in the last week. Might remove some leafs one last time. I’m on day 21 bloom.

 

[Bill284]

Yea tell me about it can’t keep it under 60% with fan running at 100 percent. I Had to keep tent doors open to get it in the low 50s hunidity spiked in the last week. Might remove some leafs one last time. I’m on day 21 bloom.

Usually by day 21 stretch has pretty much finished.
I’d try and remove everything under the canopy.
Once those buds thicken up no light will penetrate anyway.
Reducing plant matter not needed will be your only hope of controlling rh.
They just keep draining the bucks and releasing moisture.
Keeping that process going depends on rh in the room.


Stay safe
Bill284

 

[Olie]

trimmed her up and humidity is a lot more stable. Not touching her any more gonna ride it out. Switched to bloom nutrients and burned plant little bit but I’m at low ppm I’m guessing for bloom. I’m only at 690ppm is it normal to start out this low? Veg nutrients a was around 850ppm when I switch to bloom no deficiencies as of now only burnt tips very lightly and some leaf stems turning purple.

 

[Bill284]

trimmed her up and humidity is a lot more stable. Not touching her any more gonna ride it out. Switched to bloom nutrients and burned plant little bit but I’m at low ppm I’m guessing for bloom. I’m only at 690ppm is it normal to start out this low? Veg nutrients a was around 850ppm when I switch to bloom no deficiencies as of now only burnt tips very lightly and some leaf stems turning purple.

Just marvelous
Hope your having a good my friend.


Stay safe
Bill284

 

[Olie]

This is nutrient burn right?

 

[Bill284]

This is nutrient burn right?

Yes.
Nothing to worry about.


Stay safe
Bill284

 

[Olie]

Little update ppm are at 400 as of now if I go higher they burn the tips lol. Is it normal to be so low at week 4 bloom? I’m using Athena nutrients blended line.

 

[Wastei]

If you're in veg, neem oil is much better than citric acid for powdery mildew. It will both kill and prevent PM.

Once there are pistils I switch to citric acid, but at a much reduced strength than that link. Go with .25% rather than 1%.

I would personally never use Neem indoors, nasty stuff! It might help the plant and work well but it also smells like death. Silicate and having a healthy plant overall will protect well against PM.

I would'nt spray anything in flower but that's just me. Keeping the environment in check is key to prevent PM. The only time I ever really had PM was on weak looking cuttings from outside source. They barely survived.

 

[Bill284]

Little update ppm are at 400 as of now if I go higher they burn the tips lol. Is it normal to be so low at week 4 bloom? I’m using Athena nutrients blended line.

No that’s not typical in cannabis growing.
My veg formulation is 950 ppm.
Week 1 to 4 of flower is 1150 ppm Remo Nutrients.
Your girls look green and healthy though.
I’ll check those nutrients.


Stay safe
Bill284

 

[BeanTownFan420]

Feeding your plant till tip burn slightly is exactly how most of our plants look it is normal when feeding salt based nutrients just be aware if it gets worse. Mine as example.

20240317_154925.jpg

• BeanTownFan420
• Mar 17, 2024

 

[Bill284]

Yeah they are the exact same 1150 ppm.
I’d bring it back up to the proper range.

 

[InTheShed]

It might help the plant and work well but it also smells like death.

It does help the plant and it smells like death to soft-bodied insects and PM. Some say it smells like victory!

 

[Olie]

I bumped up nutirents and leafs perked right up. Does that mean she was hungry? Looks like burned tips also but just little bit.

 

[Bill284]

I bumped up nutirents and leafs perked right up. Does that mean she was hungry? Looks like burned tips also but just little bit.

I'd be at 1100 ppm right now. In coco.
But color and shape look great, praying away.
I wouldn't skimp personally.
Not with that incredible garden.


Stay safe
Bill284

 

[Wastei]

Little update ppm are at 400 as of now if I go higher they burn the tips lol. Is it normal to be so low at week 4 bloom? I’m using Athena nutrients blended line.

Keep doing what you're doing. I would raise nutrient strength slightly to 500-800ppm and keep track on pH and call it a day. Many strains finish well under 500ppm/1.0 EC in DWC. How often do you change out the reservoir?

You should hardly see any burns in DWC under 800ppm, that's only on very sensitive long flowering sativa's. What do you feed them?

Cheers!

 

[Olie]

Keep doing what you're doing. I would raise nutrient strength slightly to 500-800ppm and keep track on pH and call it a day. Many strains finish well under 500ppm/1.0 EC in DWC. How often do you change out the reservoir?

You should hardly see any burns in DWC under 800ppm, that's only on very sensitive long flowering sativa's. What do you feed them?

Cheers!

Hi, I change my reservoir ever week to two weeks tops. Today I’m changing water after two weeks. Going to go around 600ppm see how she reacts. I feed them Athena blended line of nutrients.

 

[Olie]

how much do you guys let the ph fluctuate before a justing it with either ph up or ph down?

 

[Delps8]

I use a doser to keep pH at 5.8 most of the time.

Re. nute levels - I typically don't go over 1.6 EC and I have seen insufficiency when I let my res drop to 300-400. That was a temporary situation and I wasn't surprised to see that there were issues.

If you are seeing damage to the plant, in the form of tip burn, necrosis, or discoloration, that means the plant has one or more chemicals in the toxicity range.

Plants take in nutrients via a few mechanisms, the one that draws in the largest volume of chemicals is when water is taken up (transpiration). If your grow environment is too dry/hot, the plant will draw in a lot of water to cool off but might not be able to handle the amount of chemicals that are coming in with that water.

Best way to avoid that type of nutrient burn is to keep your temps + RH range. That can be referred to as "vapor pressure deficit" or VPD for short. It's similar to the feels like temperature for humans. This site is a good source of info on VPD.

This video is short and I consider the presenter a reliable source (Ph D in botany or somesuch).

But drop "what happens to cannabis when VPD is too high" in the YT search bar and you'll get a flavor of what it's all about.

Re plants "perking up" when you add nutrients - rather than look to increase nutrient levels, which would tend to be manifested by a change in color or the appearance (or disappearance) of a nutrient imbalance, I would suspect that there was a change in light levels and/or the amount of water being drawn in.

Re how often to change a res - "Where you sit depends on what you see.", right? If you work for a company that sells nutrients, you will advise customers to change their res frequently. The goal is to ensure that the customer has the best experience with your product. Is that "necessary"? Some growers get satisfaction that they're doing the best for the plant and are happy to spend their money.

On the other hand, the sufficiency range is fairly broad so, as far as the plant is concerned, a given res may last three weeks veg but only a week in early or mid- flower.

When I started growing again in 2021, I posed a question about how often to change a res. The answer, of course, is "it depends". Two good sources of information are attached.

I'm a firm believer in the "add back" process discussed on the Canasta's page. What took some time to get my head around was that it's OK for a res to drop from, say, 1.4 EC to 1.0 EC. The plant is not starving — It has taken up the nutes and is using them for growth. Read the Bugbee paper on "mass balance" and the light will go on.

My practice is to add back until the amount of RO water that I've added back is about 50% of my res. At that point, my doser will be adding Up fairly frequently and that tell me that it's time to do a new res.

One issue - if is perfectly normal for the pH of a res to drop in flower. There are a couple of versions of a hydro chart floating around that tell you that if pH starts dropping, swap out the res and replace it with a res with lower EC. I followed that advice and it was a complete waste of time and nutrients.

The diagram below explains why pH will change and pH is dropping is completely expected. I ran around with my hair on fire trying to fix something that wasn't broken and it wasn't until another 420 member sent me a PM that I got back on track.

Check out YouTube for "cation exchange capacity". Lots of good info.

This is a simple intro to the topic.

 

[Olie]

Thanks guys for the help about to enter week 8 of flower. Still a lot of white hairs tho.

 

[Olie]