New City Grower 2.0

Good job broke azz; I stuck the cuttings with the embryonic root hairs into a rock wool cube with some clonex dip; so there is still a chance they wont make it, keeping my DCS membership intact!

Just remember young roots hairs break off very easily...Hope all goes well...some cuttings take longer than others ...size and where they were taken from the plant can be determining factors...Hope they like the rock wool
 
:thanks:all...




This is an old post by Joe. I had blogged it for my notes & forgot all about it. It's a much better version of what I'm doing with my BROKE AZZ CAL/MAG MIX. With the research that I did to come up with my mix and now going back and reading the ingredients here I see it's already mixed with many more beneficial supplements and less than 1% sodium when the epsom salt is sodium packed. That could lead to salt build-up. I guess that's why it's good to keep notes. Thanxx Joe.




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Enfamil newborn baby formula. 1 packed level scoop per gallon of water shake and mix it well. 2 times per vegetation phase 1/2 scoop following week 3 of flowering
 
Just doing a quick peek. That Nurse strain is a beauty. I think she'd make a perfect walking stick if she gets 'big'. But she has great shape and 10 to 1 she's going to have a large main cola seeing she's untopped. I'm not sure if you have a lot of PM or Mite issues in your neck of the woods, but I know from experience that PM and Mites target dead and dying leaves before a green healthy one. They get defenseless to attacks. But if you don't have problems. I won't take a leaf unless she looks like she's drawing more juice than producing. But in that way I'm lucky,, I can just hint about thinning a plant, or lolly popping a plant and my "Old Lady" will have it done before I can around to it. Plants looking like they are coming around. Keepem Green
 
Thanxx Cal. I guess I'm just lucky with my indoor grows. The only bug problem I've ever had is gnats & I have a quick natural remedy for them. But that Fire Escape critter issue has really gotten under my skin; especially when they're only munching on one of the plants out of the two. Any idea what type of bug feeding that looks like?
 
To answer your question about the fire escape plants:

Inspect every square inch of the plant, including the undersides of the leaves. You can also make a nice solution of SNS-203 and spray the foliage, including the undersides, make sure not to spray in direct sunlight.

You can also use the SNS-311 All Natural Surface Wash to remove the pigeon poo residue :thumb:
 
I keep seeing people talking about marigolds like they are an insecticide! This is simply one of the biggest myths in gardening. There is one pest nematodes are aptly able to combat and those are root knot nematodes. However, you have to be very specific with the variety of marigold.

https://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/oc/freepubs/pdf/PD-35.pdf

If anything, marigolds attract spider mites en masse. I would never plant marigolds anywhere on my property, period. I just don't like them, and they don't perform well all summer here.

I don't like to bear this news, but it is true.
 
I keep seeing people talking about marigolds like they are an insecticide! This is simply one of the biggest myths in gardening. There is one pest nematodes are aptly able to combat and those are root knot nematodes. However, you have to be very specific with the variety of marigold.

https://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/oc/freepubs/pdf/PD-35.pdf

If anything, marigolds attract spider mites en masse. I would never plant marigolds anywhere on my property, period. I just don't like them, and they don't perform well all summer here.

I don't like to bear this news, but it is true.

When you have spider mites, It's not a bad idea to add a plant to attract them away from the others, then move the marigolds to a bon fire. :) Ive been feeding SNS209 to 'bug proof' the plants and spraying with SNS217 but with my massive outbreak I doubt I get them all and I figured Id give them a nice home to get comfy in before I set them ablaze.
The roots can kill bad nemetodes (which doesnt matter to me because they are in seperate pots) and the smell repels white flys and such.

Crysanthamums produce Pyrethum which is used in incecticides. Pyrethins actually can cause mosquito's from biting and attacks nervous system of insects.
Pest detterrent and incecticides are far from the same thing and I didnt mean to imply M's and C's would kill every bug ever. Just help you manage them.

Hi Reg :ciao:
Hi Gardenfarie :ciao:
 
I've used mums and marigolds for years as insect control; as per wikipedia:
Because chrysanthemums contain pyrethrums, they are used as companion plants to repel pest insects from nearby crops and ornamental plants.[4] They are thought to repel aphids, bed bugs (Cimex lectularius), leafhoppers, spider mites, harlequin bugs, ticks, pickleworms, and imported cabbage worms, among others, in gardens and farms. For example, they are planted among broccoli plants for protection from several common insect pests.
 
The plant itself does not repel insects. The Pyrethrum flower has to be processed to be effective. The pesticide is in the flower, not the foliage and it must contact the insect in order to kill it. There are a few varieties used specifically for pesticide usage: Chrysanthemum cinerariifolium and Chrysanthemum coccineum. There are about a thousand varieties and cultivars of chrysanthemum. Using these specific strains is not something a home gardener can easily do.

Wikipedia is not a valid, fact based medium. Most pages may/can be valid, but it's not a place I go to for the final word. For people who don't know me or who are new, I was a professional grower for many years. I managed garden centers and greenhouse growing under certified organic conditions and I went through the three year process it takes of impeccable record keeping to qualify for Certified Organic for operations I ran. I do not know everything and I ask big dumb questions here on a daily basis about growing pot. With gardening in general, and organics, I know what I'm talking about. Not in a braggy way, but I do have some confidence in my ability in this area.

Gardeners have always used many differing methods to grow plants of all kinds. There is evidence for the nematode management using a few different varieties of Tagetes, but you will not find those varieties anywhere being grown for sale in nurseries. Generally, they are not all that fancy. You can probably get these varieties from Johnny's Seed dot com.

When choosing a pesticide you think is organic, make certain you know terms for the different active ingredient. In market items with a chemical called pyrethroid, which is not natural should never be used. Ever. Being certain about pesticides is very important if it is going into your lungs. Our lungs are an incredible delivery vehicle directly into our nervous system. When I say things about organics, my only motivation is to protect people from themselves. There are a lot of new growers and a lot of amazing marketeers out there in lala land. Just because a product calls itself "natural" does not mean anything. The only products you should trust to be organic are those which specify certified organic or OMRI. Everything else is full of crap. Period.


I do always revert back to the old adage that, if it works for you, by all means use the method. Share the findings, but where I get a little concerned is when people make definitive claims to something which simply does not always work. Maybe never work. I can assure you one thing, marigolds are spider mite magnets. Planted across the garden from the plants you are protecting can never hurt, but if your plants are in stress, have any nutrient deficiency or is wilting on a regular basis from poor watering practices, you will have spider mites no matter how many marigolds you plant! :)
 
Thanxx Everyone. I appreciate all the good info.

To answer your question about the fire escape plants:

Inspect every square inch of the plant, including the undersides of the leaves. You can also make a nice solution of SNS-203 and spray the foliage, including the undersides, make sure not to spray in direct sunlight.

You can also use the SNS-311 All Natural Surface Wash to remove the pigeon poo residue :thumb:

I think I'll try Lester's recommendations first as I have SNS products on hand. And now...





A QUICK UPDATE​
June 18, 2014​






NURSE BETTY (Royal Medic) Day 51 / Day 13 under 12/12




The first sign of pre-flower. Can you see the little itty-bitty pistils?




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And using one of Smoker Joe's ideas I made a little purchase at the supermarket on the way home.




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:thanks:all...




This is an old post by Joe. I had blogged it for my notes & forgot all about it. It's a much better version of what I'm doing with my BROKE AZZ CAL/MAG MIX. With the research that I did to come up with my mix and now going back and reading the ingredients here I see it's already mixed with many more beneficial supplements and less than 1% sodium when the epsom salt is sodium packed. That could lead to salt build-up. I guess that's why it's good to keep notes. Thanxx Joe.


Hey there. Glad to have been of help. Your logic is why I started using this formula. If you dont want to buy it go to a obgyn and they usually have free samples out on the counter.
 
"...With the research that I did to come up with my mix and now going back and reading the ingredients here I see it's already mixed with many more beneficial supplements and less than 1% sodium when the epsom salt is sodium packed. That could lead to salt build-up. I guess that's why it's good to keep notes. Thanxx Joe...."

Once again I hate to be the bearer, but Epsom salt does not have sodium in it. It is magnesium sulfate.
 
I would also be worried that the ratio of nutrients provided by a human baby formula is not the same ratio of nutrients that my vegetating or flowering cannabis plant would need.
 
By increasing and decreasing and doing some math its not hard to get what you need. I have done plants with and without with every other condition the same and it does make a difference of about 13 % which I suppose isnt terribly sgnificant but if you are talking 13% multiplied by 10 plants and now you are talking a net gain of 1 whole plant worth of yield plus anoth 1/4th of a plant. To make sure it was indeed 13% gain I did a additional harvest with the same conditions except the powder. In other words it was the same lights the same cycles the same nutrients the same temps the same training methods the outlier plants were 11.8 and 14.1% which I contribute to naturally better genes in certain seed or more viable. I didnt cull any plants from the garden even if they were stunted. So naturally some were closer or further from the light. To keep the test fair I didnt move the smaller plants closer to the light in order to get the expected result. This was done with a total of 28 plants. 15 the first grow 13 the second. The plants were numbered so there would be no chance of mixing any of the results. I used 1 level scoop of powder per 64 oz of water. Weeks 2 and 6 of flowering. Thanks.
 
Once again I hate to be the bearer, but Epsom salt does not have sodium in it. It is magnesium sulfate.
Livestrong.com
Epsom salt is the common name for the compound magnesium sulfate, or magnesium sulfate heptahydrate. According to SaltWorks, Epsom salts were first discovered and named after the town of Epsom, England in the early 1800s. It is thought that Epsom salt was termed a salt because its crystalline structure resembles that of table salt,
Once again you're right Brooklyn
but that's good news. I had never read that it had sodium in it but another member said it would eventually cause salt build-up in my medium & I never questioned it because of the name of it.
By increasing and decreasing and doing some math its not hard to get what you need. I have done plants with and without with every other condition the same and it does make a difference of about 13 % which I suppose isnt terribly sgnificant but if you are talking 13% multiplied by 10 plants and now you are talking a net gain of 1 whole plant worth of yield plus anoth 1/4th of a plant. To make sure it was indeed 13% gain I did a additional harvest with the same conditions except the powder. In other words it was the same lights the same cycles the same nutrients the same temps the same training methods the outlier plants were 11.8 and 14.1% which I contribute to naturally better genes in certain seed or more viable. I didnt cull any plants from the garden even if they were stunted. So naturally some were closer or further from the light. To keep the test fair I didnt move the smaller plants closer to the light in order to get the expected result. This was done with a total of 28 plants. 15 the first grow 13 the second. The plants were numbered so there would be no chance of mixing any of the results. I used 1 level scoop of powder per 64 oz of water. Weeks 2 and 6 of flowering. Thanks.
That's basically what I needed to hear Joe. But now that I know the only thing I really was worried about in my Broke Azz Cal/Mag Mix is nothing more than a misunderstanding that Epsom salt is a derivative of salt. I'll continue to use it on my healthiest plants. I'll try the Enfamil on my test/mercy grow plant KUMIKO IV




I have Growology also Lester but I'm really concentrating on Broke Azz ways to grow weed. In the end I would love to have a Broke Azz list from A-Z; How to grow with great results by traveling the unbeaten path & not making any or close to no major purchases.

So far I have:

1] The Broke Azz Cal/Mag
2] The Broke Azz Gnat & Larva cide

Both already proven to work by me personally


And a work in progress:

3] The Broke Azz Soil mix




A lot of members think I'm some kind of nut but I believe if you find something that works why not share it. When I introduced the Skim milk & Epsom Salt idea for a cal/mag supplement I heard everything from the milk will sour & cause all types of bad bacteria in your soil to (of course) the epsom salt will cause salt build-up. Recently Brooklyn has cleared up both myths & it's brought nearly my entire Bloom tent back from disaster.

And when I tell members about the Hydrogen Peroxide & Dish Detergent application to rid your grow of gnats it's usually ignored but every member that's tried it says it works.

I guess that's just human nature; If it cost more & everyone's using it, it's better.
 
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