AnimaSola
New Member
Give it a week for the gypsum to work, it should stop getting worse by then.
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- #22
GROWant
Well-Known Member
You can try a nice compost tea.
You can also take the Epsom salts and use it as a foilar spray instead of a root drench. This will be absorbed faster into your plant.
Just remember when you are seeing deficiencies (in most growing mediums) they started about 5-7 days before showing any signs. You will never be able to fix the problem overnight, a few days if you are lucky usually going to take a week or so. We, as growers, have a tendency to overcompensate for problems by not being patient.
I'm not trying to discredit anyone. So far everyone has given you solid advice. I'm just saying you can't apply everyone's advice at the same time. What I mean by this is, if you added gypsum, then fed her with Epsom salts, then used a cal mag supplement. You have added a lot of inputs. When one of these suggested methods would have worked by itself.
My best suggestion would be,
If you have the space I would wait to flower.
I would also transplant to something a little bigger(girls love new shoes). Then add a nice compost tea. After that just give her some time.
I'm quite medicated at the moment so I hope this made sense. Please hit me up if you need any clarification. Take care.
AnimaSola
New Member
I agree, my weekly compost tea always makes my girls happy.
Mr NiceGuy420
Well-Known Member
Emjayd..... it's your lucky day. I litterly created an account today with 420mag (which I should have done long ago anyways) just to answer this issue you are having. When I first started growing full time (which was a year ago although I've always had a plant or two as a novice as well) I had also been growing under T5's (bloom as well believe it or not). I had also used ocean forest. I had also used fox farm grow big/big bloom/tiger bloom trio. Because of that, I believe I know your issue.
Everyone is correct in that this is a Calcium LOOKING problem. They are correct in that is the deficiency.
Let me ask you a few questions.... are these rust color dots YOUR ONLY deficiency? Or is it possible you also have yellow or even brown colors between the veins on each leaf (only some leaves.... could be anywhere on the plant). If so, this would be what is considered a magnesium deficiency. With a YES or NO to that, please read on. Now, if you don't see the Mg deficiency, is it possible on the bottom area of the plant your seeing Browning in the middle of or on random sides of you leaf fingers? (That would indicate phosphorus deficiency- please look for example photos of these on "grow weed easy.com". If you are seeing another of these in tandem with the rusty spots in your photo. YOU HAVE A PH ISSUE.
is see your watering at 6.3 to 6.8 which would typically be perfect in soil....hiwevet I have noticed that fox farm nuts have lasting PH impacts on soil. My ocean forest soil using fox farm nuts trio ALWSYS PhD lower at the run off than what I am watering in.
Let me ask you another question.... did you notice this deficiency about 6 to 9 weeks into your grow (regardless of when or if you flipped to flower)? If you did (even if your not yet seeing the multiple deficiencies) I al.ost guarantee this is your issue because I had the EXACT same problems.
I also tried Ca/mg (by botanicare) first, and saw my issue get worse. SPECIFICALLY FOR THE CALCIUM DEFICIENCY (DUE TO PH) THE CLOSER YOUR LIGHTS, THE WORSE IT WILL GET... AND FAST!!!!!!
I AGREE THAT 6.3 TO 6.8 PH is great..... but if your watering at 6.8 and getting 5.0 PH runoff. Or even 5.5 or 6.0 run off, that means your roots are actually like 4.5ph, or WORSE! You need to Flush your plants with R.O. water mixed with 120ppm of cal mag at a PH of 7.0 ish until you get the root zone back around 6.8ph. From there, you need to test you PH run off EVERY SINGLE TIME YOUR WATERING.
I've noticed when I don't use fox farm nutrients and only use water.....i don't get this issue. However, when I use nutrients when watering.... things look great for a day or three... then this PH issue slowly but surely shows face again as the nutrients slowly great an acidic environment in my soil.
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE TRY flushing your plants completely until you get a run off of 6.8ph, then watch your purple stems turn green again and your tops to begin to develops once more. To ur dead/dying leave WILL NOT RECOVER, so time is important here.
Good luck and happy growing my friend. I'll check back shortly for an update. .
Oh.... and proof that PH is the issue..... look at the soil PH chart on grow weed easy.com and tell me.... what are the 3 macro and micro nuts that don't do well in PH under 6.0????? You guessed it, Calcium/Magnesium and Phosphorus..... ding ding ding.... off and growing again . .
How can you NOT, love this plant, right? Good luck.
Everyone is correct in that this is a Calcium LOOKING problem. They are correct in that is the deficiency.
Let me ask you a few questions.... are these rust color dots YOUR ONLY deficiency? Or is it possible you also have yellow or even brown colors between the veins on each leaf (only some leaves.... could be anywhere on the plant). If so, this would be what is considered a magnesium deficiency. With a YES or NO to that, please read on. Now, if you don't see the Mg deficiency, is it possible on the bottom area of the plant your seeing Browning in the middle of or on random sides of you leaf fingers? (That would indicate phosphorus deficiency- please look for example photos of these on "grow weed easy.com". If you are seeing another of these in tandem with the rusty spots in your photo. YOU HAVE A PH ISSUE.
is see your watering at 6.3 to 6.8 which would typically be perfect in soil....hiwevet I have noticed that fox farm nuts have lasting PH impacts on soil. My ocean forest soil using fox farm nuts trio ALWSYS PhD lower at the run off than what I am watering in.
Let me ask you another question.... did you notice this deficiency about 6 to 9 weeks into your grow (regardless of when or if you flipped to flower)? If you did (even if your not yet seeing the multiple deficiencies) I al.ost guarantee this is your issue because I had the EXACT same problems.
I also tried Ca/mg (by botanicare) first, and saw my issue get worse. SPECIFICALLY FOR THE CALCIUM DEFICIENCY (DUE TO PH) THE CLOSER YOUR LIGHTS, THE WORSE IT WILL GET... AND FAST!!!!!!
I AGREE THAT 6.3 TO 6.8 PH is great..... but if your watering at 6.8 and getting 5.0 PH runoff. Or even 5.5 or 6.0 run off, that means your roots are actually like 4.5ph, or WORSE! You need to Flush your plants with R.O. water mixed with 120ppm of cal mag at a PH of 7.0 ish until you get the root zone back around 6.8ph. From there, you need to test you PH run off EVERY SINGLE TIME YOUR WATERING.
I've noticed when I don't use fox farm nutrients and only use water.....i don't get this issue. However, when I use nutrients when watering.... things look great for a day or three... then this PH issue slowly but surely shows face again as the nutrients slowly great an acidic environment in my soil.
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE TRY flushing your plants completely until you get a run off of 6.8ph, then watch your purple stems turn green again and your tops to begin to develops once more. To ur dead/dying leave WILL NOT RECOVER, so time is important here.
Good luck and happy growing my friend. I'll check back shortly for an update. .
Oh.... and proof that PH is the issue..... look at the soil PH chart on grow weed easy.com and tell me.... what are the 3 macro and micro nuts that don't do well in PH under 6.0????? You guessed it, Calcium/Magnesium and Phosphorus..... ding ding ding.... off and growing again . .
How can you NOT, love this plant, right? Good luck.
Mr NiceGuy420
Well-Known Member
Wow, I also can actually see the phosphorus deficiency in not your last photo.... but the 3 prior to your last photo. I would be 100% surprised if PH at the root is not your issue. All other photos I can only see the ca issue. The reason I used all of Calcium/Magnesium AND phosphorus examples to diagnose is I only had a Phosphorous problem in my "bubba's gift" yet a Calcium problem in my "gorilla glue#4" and only magnesium in my "papaya, but had Ca AND Mg in my "northern lights". Weird how different plants show different signs.
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- #27
Hi Mr Niceguy, thanks for taking the time to help, much appreciated. After reading your posts, I think you may be right about it being a ph issue. The problem is that I have no RO system and just not gonna spend $200 on one. All I can do is take them out to the porch and run a hose through it or mix some 5 gallon buckets to dump through them. Im not sure if flushing with regular water would help or make things worse.
Mr NiceGuy420
Well-Known Member
I think with your combination of suggestions above, your in the right track. If you don't have R.O. water that is ok.... R.O. is just ideal as you control EVERYTHING you add after R.O. strips water to it's basic elements. However, if you are watering with a safe alternative, that should help. The key is you wanna kill three potential birds with one stone (1. "Flush yo shit" for any nutrient lockout potential issues; 2. Replace your known deficiencies (if I remember right that was .Ca in this case); 3. Replace any "buffers" that we may have flushed from your soil over weeks of watering as well as during flush.
In order to accomplish all 3, you'd need to Flush as discussed above with water as clean from Salts as possible and get the PH corrected. Then #2, after root zone appears correct... add one last gallon of water WITH ONLY 1/4 nutrients mixed back to the water ( to ensure the right nutrients and micro life are added back to the pots). and #3, make sure u add the appropriate amount of Gypsum ( or dolimite lime is a great cheap alternative as I believe is has Ca AND Mg..... I think gypsum only has Ca) when doing this last watering. Gypsum or dolimite lime will add you back some buffers for a future "PH safety net".
Although you don't have "perfect" water.... as long as your not using water softener water or something (which would add obscene unnecessary salts [sodium is the first salt absorbed by plants and will destroy the vascular system], then your better off to Flush, than to let things continue on.
You'd know if you have water softener water as you be carrying 80lb bags of salt to your basement monthly.... so we should be good there.
Sounds like ur on the right path. Good luck and keep on growing!
In order to accomplish all 3, you'd need to Flush as discussed above with water as clean from Salts as possible and get the PH corrected. Then #2, after root zone appears correct... add one last gallon of water WITH ONLY 1/4 nutrients mixed back to the water ( to ensure the right nutrients and micro life are added back to the pots). and #3, make sure u add the appropriate amount of Gypsum ( or dolimite lime is a great cheap alternative as I believe is has Ca AND Mg..... I think gypsum only has Ca) when doing this last watering. Gypsum or dolimite lime will add you back some buffers for a future "PH safety net".
Although you don't have "perfect" water.... as long as your not using water softener water or something (which would add obscene unnecessary salts [sodium is the first salt absorbed by plants and will destroy the vascular system], then your better off to Flush, than to let things continue on.
You'd know if you have water softener water as you be carrying 80lb bags of salt to your basement monthly.... so we should be good there.
Sounds like ur on the right path. Good luck and keep on growing!
- Thread starter
- #29
Flushed the plants with 10-12 gallons of water a couple weeks ago and started feeding calimagic and big big bloom every other watering. They are regaining health and are now flowering. Looks like I might actually get a nice yield out of them. Just wanted to leave a quick update and thank everyone for helping out.
