Dada254
420 Member
What is the problem here does my plants need more calcium and nitrogen??? Are did I give to much I’m also seeing yellow leaves
Need help
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Sueet
Well-Known Member
Doubtful that it needs nitrogen this deep into flower, but I think you nailed it wanting calcium.
Sueet is correct its magnesium deficiency quick fix is the use table spoon of Epson salt in gallon water and feed or you can spay it on plant. I would recommend feeding so not to run risk of water on plant by spaying causing light burn. Veg time is best for spraying you can do before lights come on sense your in flower feed would be best in my opinion .
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Before you start dumping stuff on the plant, lets get some more details. Are you adjusting the pH of your incoming fluids? What nutrients are you using and are you supplementing calcium and magnesium by using calmag? Are you using RO water? Are you in soil? Are you under LED lights? All of these things need to be considered before you start spraying and dumping.
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Dada254
420 Member
I’m in fox farm ocean forest soil using the trio fox farm nutrients keeping ph around 6.2 to 6.7 using vivosun led lights with a light distance of 2 ft through out the entire grown I’m on week 4 of flower growing gorilla glue and blue haze
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Dada254
420 Member
And I’m also using cal mag and some boast for Potassium
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
another couple of questions then... lots of people miss this and are even advised against doing it. Did you do a 3x flush to clean the soil as you transitioned to the bloom nutes? Also, tell me how it is that you are ranging between 6.2 and 6.7 pH??
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
what potassium boost are you using?
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Dada254
420 Member
Yes I’ve flushed before switching to flower I’m using big bud for boast and ph up ph down to control my ph level with a vivosun ph meter also I check ppm with a vivosun ppm meter I was thinking about doing a flush now to get the problem in control but sometimes that brings more problems when in middle of flower stage
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
When I ran FF nutrients, I flushed 5x throughout the grow... at the end of veg, 2 weeks into flower, at the end of open sesame and the start of beasty blooms, week 6 at the start of ChaChing and then again at the very end. Nowadays I know better than doing the one at the very end, but the others I would still do.
I am confused though, Big Buds is part of the trio is it not? How would it be a boost when it is part of the base formula? Are you going by the soil feeding chart and properly mixing the trio per the week of the grow that you are in?
More questions... please don't take offense, I am just trying to understand... you are using a good pH meter... so how come you can't water at 6.3 pH exactly, every time? Why are you checking ppm? Again, the soil feeding chart gives you dosages in tsp/gal... why would you then check the ppm as if you were calibrating a hydro grow?
I am confused though, Big Buds is part of the trio is it not? How would it be a boost when it is part of the base formula? Are you going by the soil feeding chart and properly mixing the trio per the week of the grow that you are in?
More questions... please don't take offense, I am just trying to understand... you are using a good pH meter... so how come you can't water at 6.3 pH exactly, every time? Why are you checking ppm? Again, the soil feeding chart gives you dosages in tsp/gal... why would you then check the ppm as if you were calibrating a hydro grow?
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Dada254
420 Member
Yes there is also a big bud in the trio but I’m using a boast also called big bud by Advanced nutrients I always check my ppm of my run off no matter what because I like to keep a eye on how much nutrients my plants has in its soil I never go by the charts because there basically always to much so I usually do half of what the chart says and I don’t always use the same 6.3 ph I let it go up and down up until 6.8 because scientifically fact using the same pH throughout the plants grow can cause major problems because the plant takes in different nutrients at different ph levels so it’s always a good thing To let let it fluctuates
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
With this you have given me the final clues so I can advise you as to what you need to do. Based on what you just wrote, you won't believe me, so I will post this as the final advice that I am able to give you, and then you will be on your own with your preconceptions about how this all works.
Fox Farms is a scientific grow "system" and if you carefully follow their exact instructions, it is amazing what these nutes can pull out of a plant. I grew some beautiful plants using the Fox Farm grow system, and I was using the 3 solubles along with the trio that you are using.
The problem is, you can't guess and make this system work. You can't get by with only giving a portion of the needed dosages per week of the grow. You also can't cross product lines and expect good results... another company's juice could easily lock out things needed in this system. But you never go by the charts, and that is not going to work, no matter what ... I have seen these types of grows fail 100's of times. My advice has always been, follow FF advice to the letter, and it will work. Those who follow my advice to simply follow the directions seem to always be surprised when they see how well it works.
Lastly, you are driving an automatic by using the shifter on the column, as if it couldn't shift on its own. The pH of your soil is set high, to 6.8 or so, so that when you water with a 6.3 fluid, there is an interaction and a drift upwards all through the usable pH range in soil. While you are coming in at a different pH each time, varying it up to get different slices of the range, you are missing out on part of the range and part of the nutrients. When you water at 6.6, the drift still grabs you and the pH slides between 6.6 to 6.8 or so... you just missed out on any nutrients most mobile at the low end, 6.2-6.6... its as if they aren't even there. The soil is buffered, so that you can use it as a tool, so that you are able to come in low, and slide through the entire usable range, not just picking up each nutrient as it is most mobile, but also staying within the usable range for the maximum amount of time. The soil was designed this way... and you are trying to drive it manually and disable some of these features.
I wish you the best of luck, and maybe there is a way to use these nutes other than as recommended, but I don't know it, and you are on your own as far as how to adjust your way out of this. Hopefully you will figure it out soon and can let us all know what you have learned.
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