Need help identifying issue

[Gee64]

These are at day 41 of 70 and the couple small buds with heavy sugar are the Durban Poison sativas that will go about 84 days so they will fill out later. The ones with the dark background are Green Crack. The ones with orange hairs are OG Kush. These pics are a few days old. Today I got home and all the calyxes are starting to swell alot. The weight goes on quick now. I had to tie 5 heads up as the added weight of the bulked calyxes has them flopping.
Soon you will be here. Exciting times in your future JP!

 

[Gee64]

oops my bad. the very bottom pic is OG Kush too

 

[Pondo7011]

i seen these for the first time today, ithese are ina 4x4 grow tent 1000W led about 2feet above plant, there are 3 plants taller than this one, and also a few shorter. This is the only one i have seen like this, I searched many pics and havent found anything exactly. I use an organic liquid fertilizer which has neem in it. I took a few clones off in past few days.

 

[Pondo7011]

Though \i have looked, \i have no idea what this might be. Any ideas?

 

[Gee64]

At a glance that looks like a boron deficiency. Deficiencies are rarely actual deficiencies usually in soil grows they are a nutrient lockout due to incorrect ph. Boron locks out when ph is too high. You need your ph at 6.5 for soil. Thats the sweet spot in soil. It can also get locked out under extremely dry conditions. If you regularly dry your soil to the point that your plants wilt and/or if your humidity is 30% or less boron will lock out. First thing is always do a really heavy watering with perfectly phed water. Make sure your pots have really good drainage. You cant have enough holes in the bottom. You dont want any pooling water in a pot. It will immediately start drowning roots. Roots breath air. We can breath in the shower but not underwater in a bath. Roots are the same. After 2 hours of full runoff hit them again with another heavy full perfect ph watering. Your not flushing your soil just fully saturating it twice. JP can vouch for the value of this. Hopefully in 2 days you will see a drastic turn around. The burnt leaves will never heal but you should see new healthy growth out the top. Those look like 5 gal buckets. You want at least 50 small holes in the bottom. 1/4 inch drill bit size is max. any larger and your soil will rinse out. 3/16 is better.

 

[jpemberton1]

These are at day 41 of 70 and the couple small buds with heavy sugar are the Durban Poison sativas that will go about 84 days so they will fill out later. The ones with the dark background are Green Crack. The ones with orange hairs are OG Kush. These pics are a few days old. Today I got home and all the calyxes are starting to swell alot. The weight goes on quick now. I had to tie 5 heads up as the added weight of the bulked calyxes has them flopping.
Soon you will be here. Exciting times in your future JP!

Beautiful pictures gee! I certainly envy your babies in the best of ways lol. If mine turn out half that good I'll be ecstatic! Started brewing a new batch of tea last night and I checked on it this morning and it seems to be foaming more than the first batch! I'll be using that tea tomorrow night for watering again gee, thank you for all your help I would be nowhere close to where I am today without your insight!

 

[Gee64]

JP Im glad its all on the right track. Im just giving back to the group as you will as you gain experience. Now lets watch your girls turn into BudMommas!

 

[jpemberton1]

JP Im glad its all on the right track. Im just giving back to the group as you will as you gain experience. Now lets watch your girls turn into BudMommas!

Thank you gee! I Do have another question for you...should I be cutting or primping my plants at all? I've read and heard a decent amount about it. But I haven't touched mine!

 

[Gee64]

Heres one more giant post for you on Mycorrhizae and microbes as they go hand in hand and they ARE what makes organics organic. Ill dummy it down because you dont need to know the technicalities of it just how it works in general.

-Almost all plants need myco to eat properly.
-Marijuana needs endomyco (not ectomyco)
-Myco is a fungus that attaches to the roots and slowly grows outwards into the soil. Its a symbiotic parasite.
-myco just like a plant can move water and nutrients throughout its body
- myco needs sugars to survive
-plants need nutes to survive
-as a plant grows its needs change but gradually as in veg to flower is buffered gradually in the stretch period where the nitrogen needs lessen and the phos and potass needs go up

So..
The myco wants the sugars from the plants but the plants want the microbe digested nutes from the myco. A plant can tell myco "Hey I need some phosphorus because I can only pull nutes from a half inch away and Im out so no sugar for you til i get some phos. Myco can get phos from the other side of the pot and move it quickly throughout itself to the root site so...
Myco learns in general what a plants needs are and farms, grows and nurtures the kind of microbes that release the plants main needs. Over time in veg myco ups the nitrogen microbes in the soil. Over time in flower myco ups the phosphorus microbes in the soil.
Myco grows a bit slow so the sooner it attaches to your roots the better. It cant sprout in the soil until it comes in contact with a live root. It needs the roots bioslime to sprout from spore.

Now to microbes...
EWC contains tons of beneficial microbes but the wider variety of microbes you have the better selection myco has of what to nurture for nute production.
All composted steer manure does is broaden the spectrum of microbes. Many people will knock steer manure for a ton of reasons but if its properly and fully composted and organic steer manure its safe. You dont need the steer manure microbes but your grow will be better with them. EWC is the main one tho, its a really good source of weed friendly microbes.

Recycled soil...
When a plant dies myco knows its going to starve to death too so it spores out. It seeds itself into the soil. If you recycle your soil and add a bit of new nutes such as rock phosphate or dolimite lime etc to replenish what your plant used andyou leave the roots in the soil and you keep the soil fairly damp the microbes will survive, and they are the hand picked kinds that myco was growing, by eating and decomposing the rootball. In about 30 days the roots will be composted and the new added nutes will be partly digested and active in the soil. So when you recycle your soil (If you choose to) you keep it alive and as soon as your new grow sprouts roots you have microbes ready to go and myco spores waiting for new roots. You still dust the rootball with myco at transplant but the soil is full of it too so as the roots grow out the myco is waiting for it. When myco dies it leaves its spores in its dead roots so dont pull them out let the microbes free the spores. Every grow your soils life system gets better.

The Golden Rule...

Never disturb the soil of a pot with a live plant in it unless you have to. After top dressing the top layer will crust up. Its ok to use a hand rake to break it up but dont go over 1 inch deep. If you hack up the myco it cant transfer nutes throughout the pot because you ripped it into pieces. When you harvest let the pots die down in the roots for a couple weeks so myco can die and spore out before you break them up to recycle them. You can pull the rootball out of the pot and set it in the tub to reuse the pot but dont rip the myco apart for a couple weeks til it dies on its own. Lightly water the dead rootball with ph water just to keep the microbes alive.

 

[Gee64]

If you add a cup of basmati rice to the dirt when you break the rootball up it will easily feed the microbes for 2 months until you need that soil in your big pots for flower again

 

[Gee64]

Myco is really just hydroponics for soil

 

[Gee64]

people who try and fail at organics generally dont understand that myco is everything. Just add microbes and water and KaBoom... you get a great plant. I just cater to my myco and keep its microbes alive when its dead until its kids can take over the microbe farm. Ive never had a deficiency in any type of plant Ive grown ever. Just ph your water and put the right kind of stuff in your soil so the microbes can chew it up for the myco to give it to your weed to get its sugars. Thats the full soil circle of life. Its been going on for hundreds of millions of years til humans messed it up.

 

[Gee64]

This works for anything you grow. Trees mainly need ectomyco and annuals and flowers need endomyco. Other than that everything works the same for endo or ecto

 

[Gee64]

When you grow outside in a garden you can now see the value of cutting your plant off and leaving the roits to decompose over the winter. It frees the myco for next years seedlings.

 

[Gee64]

Oh 1 more note on myco
Phosphorus is the holy grail. Its really hard to get out of soil and plants love it. If you use a fertilizer with a higher phosphorus number than 10 the plant thinks it doesnt need the myco and everything gets out of balance. The end result is phosphorus will get locked into the soil unavailable to your plant because it works backwards down the foid chain and myco stops farming phosphorus microbes. I use bio bud fert. Its about 0.5-0.5-1 i think and I add it to every wateting. Its not high in phos but plants actually dont need much phos the problem is that its locked up in a really tight biological container so we as humans figure if we throw tons at it then we can compensate. It does work but its very short sighted in organics. Low steady sources of phos are more than enough to keep your plants happy. Its balance that you need. When the plant needs more phos the myco just raises more phos microbes and the percentages change at the roots biospheric level.

 

[Gee64]

You will constantly see good growers say things like "I use quarter strength nutes of what the bottle recomends" Thats because they understand this.

 

[Gee64]

most "super-bulk-your-flowers-up" nutes are about 35 to 40 on the phos number so just use 1/4 or 1/5 strength and your good to go

 

[jpemberton1]

Awesome! I will definitely keep that in mind! I say i probably have another week or 2 of vegging left, then its game on! Is it an issue that i never topped any of my plants?

 

[Gee64]

Awesome! I will definitely keep that in mind! I say i probably have another week or 2 of vegging left, then its game on! Is it an issue that i never topped any of my plants?

no not at all but... theres always a but.... and this is purely your choice not a rule.....
an untopped plant has most of its growth hormones in the main top. The side branches contain growth hormones too but not as much and thats why they are underneath the top in overall height from the ground.
Your light diminishes quixkly as it gets farther from the bulb so as your main cola can be allowed to get too close to the lught you have to adjust your light to its height thus giving the lower branches weaker light.
If you top at a young age it grows 2 tops and they get equal growth hormone. If you top each of those you get 4 tops all of equal growth hormone. So its easier to keep all the tips at the same height by topping young and growing the tips up however.....
If 1 main cola gives you x amount of bud 2 tops give you slightly more than x but each top is only slightly bigger than half of 1 main. So your overall yield goes up alot by topping to 4 or 8 but your main colas are smaller as the plant has to support 4 or 8 main tops. Light is a plants number 1 nutrient so dividing the tops up to get better light increases your yield but again only to a point. I divided each plant to 16 tops this grow. That was 4 toppings. 16 colas should give me more yield but they got too crowded and light became the punch point. Next grow I will only top to 2. Then again to 4. Then again to 8 and go with 8.
To top healthily wait til your plant has 5 levels of real leaves above your fruit leaves. Then pinch the top 2 off leaving 3. Then pinch again when each top is 2 leaves high taking one off and leaving the other. If you want to top again to 8 repeat the process.
ai strip all side branches from layers 1 and 2 so after all my topping is done the only side branches come from my colas above the last topping. That keeps the growth hormones equal in all tops. Light or lack of it can still cause runty tops or huge tops but its so much easier to control an even canopy by topping.

 

[Gee64]

if you SCroG thats all out the window as scrogging is far different. Google plant training and you will see 3 or 4 mainly used techniques all simple but different. Mainly they adapt to diffetent grow tent sizes to maximize yields