Need help identifying issue

[Gee64]

A microbe only tea can never hurt ever. As long as it doesnt lead to overwatering. A teas first goal is to introduce more microbes. Start with that. Just proper phing perked your gals right up so I would guess your soil still has loads of nutes. Any good soil will go right thru veg and a month into flower. Add an earthworm casting/ molasses tea to start. bubble it for 24 hours and coincide it to be added right after your next watering. Use the watering to get nutes in and drench the soil. Then add the tea and the extra microbes will maximize your nutes getting to your plants. If you havent used a tea yet its your microbes that are lacking which means most of your soil hasnt been used up yet as it needs microbial life to use it up. I would get at least 2 microbe only teas into your pots over the next 2 waterings and then see if you need to add any nutes to the teas. You will be amazed. Your plants will really start to grow fast and get a very rich color to them.

 

[Gee64]

im not sure about that calmag. It may be organically good or not. I use general organics calmag plus but any will work if its fully organic. The rest looks great. Keep your eyes out for a product similar to the link im going to send. Its deep sea seawater minerals. You use it every 4 weeks or so just it and water phed and no fertilizers. It gets over 70 minerals and all essential amino acids into the plants. Its extremely strong stuff and you cant use it very often but it makes your plants really healthy and super strong.

Organic Fertilizers : Sea Minerals Fertilizer

also on that website is a product called EM...Effective Microorganisms.
Its similar to Mammoth P in that its a phosphorus eating microbe in condensed form. It really helps in bud. Its Canadas version of Mammoth P. If your in the US then just try to get some Mammoth P. Its expensive but its microbes so you dont add it that often and it goes a fair ways.

 

[Gee64]

Also heres a good rule for cannabis....
You grow your roots in veg to use them in flower.
What that means is in flower the more roots you have the more nutes you can take in and in flower weed is an unbelievable pig. Roots however wont grow alot once your in flower mode. So..... When you uppot to smart pots plan on at least 2 more weeks in veg, 3 is better to grow your roots fully into the new pots to have more roots to use in flower. This may let your plants become too tall so you may have to bend or top or scrog or whatever but on your next grow you can plan out the uppotting better so your roots are good for flower and your plant isnt too tall.
Lesser roots in flower isnt bad, it just means a smaller harvest of still great quality bud.

 

[Gee64]

Good news they perked back up within hours!!! The back left one looks bad but it's back to its full size!!!

When you get good ph and a feeding schedule you are comfortable with and a tea schedule you are comfortable with you will experience this kind of joy after every single thing you do so about every 3 days you will find yourself saying "Holy !@#$ I cant believe how much they just grew!" Then when you get your climate controlled it will make every one of those experiences greatly magnified. Weed responds really quickly to what you do. Keep learning. Next grow you will really impress yourself

 

[jpemberton1]

Alright everyone! Finally got this baby delivered and installed last night still not running yet because i need to find a dedicated outlet for the fan!

 

[Gee64]

Nice JP! On lower speed it wont draw alot. For me its the heater that draws the most.

 

[jpemberton1]

Nice JP! On lower speed it wont draw alot. For me its the heater that draws the most.

Perfect! And I have mine running on an eco setting so technically speaking it shouldn't be drawing too much either!I can't believe how powerful that fan is! I ran it for about two minutes last night! Now I have a new hairdryer that baby pulls out some serious air! I just hope it won't pull all of my heat out though

 

[Gee64]

Its a balancing act now. Mine is in a 5 x 5 tent on lowest and that covers 90% of my needs. Some days after watering the humidity gets too high and I set it halfway to medium. As for heat I heat the room to 72 and my light gets the tent to 76. When I have to crank the fan up a bit to vent humidity the heat drops a degree or 2 but the lower heat cant hold as much humidity so it balances itself out fairly quickly.

 

[WCJ11]

Hey can you guys help me out. I'm growing some AutoMazar DP and I'm about 38 days in from germination. The plants were growing pretty fast until I noticed some yellowing a couple days ago... here's what I'm talking about... I don't know what it is, what do you guys think?

 

[Gee64]

Thats a bit of an odd symptom. I see burnt tips although not really bad so a bit of overfeeding. Have you used a spray on them in the last week? Those spots almost look like droplets burned into the leaves. Are they on the whole plant or just lower leaves? And are you in soil or coco?

 

[Gee64]

But I have never grown an auto so my knowledge is very limited here

 

[WCJ11]

Thats a bit of an odd symptom. I see burnt tips although not really bad so a bit of overfeeding. Have you used a spray on them in the last week? Those spots almost look like droplets burned into the leaves. Are they on the whole plant or just lower leaves? And are you in soil or coco?

Just the lower inner leaves and I'm in soil. No spray, I added a small bit of fertilizer once flowering started but since seeing those spots I've stopped. You recommend flush for a week or so?

 

[Gee64]

I would do a full heavy watering with some organic CalMag in it. Mix it and then ph it to exactly 6.5 unless of course an auto in soil likes a different ph but I would guess 6.5 is good. If no new problems arise then you likely fed it too strong. You are in smart pots so overwatering wont hurt so yeah.... Do a big flush with some CalMag but mix the CalMag as per the directions for a light feeding. It sort of looks like a Cal thing but not really. It looks like water burn on the leaves. Plus it looks like a slight touch of overfeeding on the leaf tips.

 

[Gee64]

If that seems to work stick with it til your about 3 weeks into flowers showing. Thats generally when soil starts to run out of nutrients so then feed more, unless autos are different. Sorry autos are foreign to me. Gonna try some next grow.

 

[jpemberton1]

Okay so we have transplanted into 5 gallon smart pots! Holy roots!!! I couldn't believe my eyes when I got them out! They literally rooted the entire container they were in. The last 3 pics are the very top of my plants I transplanted. Do they look okay sex wise?

 

[Gee64]

I cant tell a girl from a boy til the lights go out but the one really hurting plant in the back is really recovering now and the rest look very healthy. Them are definitelt some roots! They will love the new pots. Give them at least a couple weeks to really root in before you flower and your yield will really increase. I would guess your whole problem was just ph because your roots look good. Well done!

 

[Gee64]

You can also take opportunity right now before the roots spread to use a piece of bamboo and poke 4 holes from top to bottom in the new outer ring of rootless dirt. Wiggle the bamboo around to widen the hole to about the diameter of your pinky. Then mix up some dry bat guano some feather meal some steamed bone meal some bulb food (3-8-8) ish, and dome kelp meal. Use 1 part each and 2 parts guano. Each hole will hold about 4 tablespoons so 1 cup per pot total. Fill the holes. Its a hot mix but if it goes in before the roots get there then as it decomposes which wont take long if you use teas, the plants will eat it up. It will help alleviate the 4th werk of flower deficiency syndrome that can happen in soil. After about 3 weeks start adding about a half cup of the same mix to the top of the pots every 2 weeks or so until your about 3 weeks from finish. It will make most deficiencies never show up. If you have never added any oyster shells to your soil then use your CalMag every watering mixing it at the light feeding ratios in the instructions. If you cant find feather meal replace it earth worm castings. Its a nitrogen additive.

 

[jpemberton1]

You can also take opportunity right now before the roots spread to use a piece of bamboo and poke 4 holes from top to bottom in the new outer ring of rootless dirt. Wiggle the bamboo around to widen the hole to about the diameter of your pinky. Then mix up some dry bat guano some feather meal some steamed bone meal some bulb food (3-8-8) ish, and dome kelp meal. Use 1 part each and 2 parts guano. Each hole will hold about 4 tablespoons so 1 cup per pot total. Fill the holes. Its a hot mix but if it goes in before the roots get there then as it decomposes which wont take long if you use teas, the plants will eat it up. It will help alleviate the 4th werk of flower deficiency syndrome that can happen in soil. After about 3 weeks start adding about a half cup of the same mix to the top of the pots every 2 weeks or so until your about 3 weeks from finish. It will make most deficiencies never show up. If you have never added any oyster shells to your soil then use your CalMag every watering mixing it at the light feeding ratios in the instructions. If you cant find feather meal replace it earth worm castings. Its a nitrogen additive.

I have that whole list of tea ingredients im ordering Wednesday! So unfortunately I don't think I'll have time! Plus I ran out of soil so I need to go get some tomorrow!

 

[jpemberton1]

Update! Got all 6 of the babies transplanted into 5 gallon smart pots! All the roots i looked at today looked just as healthy as last night's batch! Very happy about that!! Here's the top of that one plant i was asking about last night! Hopefully this one is better for you guys! (Tea ingredients are getting ordered tomorrow first thing and should be in by Friday!)

 

[jpemberton1]

A microbe only tea can never hurt ever. As long as it doesnt lead to overwatering. A teas first goal is to introduce more microbes. Start with that. Just proper phing perked your gals right up so I would guess your soil still has loads of nutes. Any good soil will go right thru veg and a month into flower. Add an earthworm casting/ molasses tea to start. bubble it for 24 hours and coincide it to be added right after your next watering. Use the watering to get nutes in and drench the soil. Then add the tea and the extra microbes will maximize your nutes getting to your plants. If you havent used a tea yet its your microbes that are lacking which means most of your soil hasnt been used up yet as it needs microbial life to use it up. I would get at least 2 microbe only teas into your pots over the next 2 waterings and then see if you need to add any nutes to the teas. You will be amazed. Your plants will really start to grow fast and get a very rich color to them.

So I officially am starting the tea brew tonight! Would you suggest using all of the ingredients i have bought? Also should I only brew then for 24 hours? I've read and heard anything over that you start losing bacteria quickly