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- #661
My First Journal, Kanno 26: I Will Grow 6 Critical Plants From Royal Queen Seeds
- Thread starter Kanno26
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- #663
I think you have good advice, but if I'm very happy I'll be happy to pay you back
Hi Kanno.
Does these foliar symptoms still exists?
For me it looks like a typical (K) Potassium deficiency. As Bubbakush suspected Magnesium deficiency, yes it looks a bit Mg deficient because of the chlorosis (yellowing) and brown spots on the leaves. Potassium and Magnesium deficiency sometimes go hand in hand.
I'd guess the plant is just getting old and they then often become even more picky by then. Thats totally normal, almost everyone faces it sometimes and there is really no ways to prevent it.
You could simply test out if theyre still hungry for Potassium - give an increased dose of your Bloom nutrient.
If/as you're in middle of the 6th week of the flowering you'd still have an easy two-four weeks to ripen them.
And trust me, you're in middle of the most crucial phase right now. Now they begin to gain weight.
You'll see very fast swelling if you got the nutrition dialed in - my advice is to increase your CalMag dosage just slightly and if you've got PK Boosters available now it's a good time to put them in use! If not, then just increase your Bloom dose or if any other Potasium supplements are in use. It's important to follow their needs right now for the real success.
Also you seem to have a good light fixture. But your day time temperature is a bit high if we take VPD in account. It's important to get the nutrition right, but it's also required that plant can properly transpire for better use of nutrients and ”better” rate of photosynthesis.
You definitely could dim your light for a bit and that already could solve the heatness. Also if possible I'd aim for 40% RH so then you've got no worries about mold! AND in a bit more dry environments the plants tend to have better flow of carbon hydrates, amino's aka plant sugars. And these have an affect on the size of the buds and their flavor.
For example check this VPD chart and try to aim somewhere between 1.3-1.5kPa.
Anything between 35-45% RH and tempertures ~22-27C would be an ideal.
I assume you never bought or assembled any kind of exhaust and or filtering system? I guess the outake is passive? Fortunately it doesn't seem to be a problem. Temperatures and humidity could become tricky.
Anyways the ladies looking great.
Keep it up and they'll reward you very well later! - Verb
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- #665
Hi @Verbalist, now at the last watering I added a calmag of 2ml so I'll see what it will do to support the flower getting Green sensation and classic Bloom. It raised my temperature by adding a humidifier to the tent and it raised my temperatures by about 4-5 degrees during the day and overnight, so I have the higher temperatures. The light I think doesn't keep the temperature down so much and my air supply is passive. Thanks for the tips and the table, but won't the compiler translate what the table is about?Hi Kanno.
Does these foliar symptoms still exists?
For me it looks like a typical (K) Potassium deficiency. As Bubbakush suspected Magnesium deficiency, yes it looks a bit Mg deficient because of the chlorosis (yellowing) and brown spots on the leaves. Potassium and Magnesium deficiency sometimes go hand in hand.
I'd guess the plant is just getting old and they then often become even more picky by then. Thats totally normal, almost everyone faces it sometimes and there is really no ways to prevent it.
You could simply test out if theyre still hungry for Potassium - give an increased dose of your Bloom nutrient.
If/as you're in middle of the 6th week of the flowering you'd still have an easy two-four weeks to ripen them.
And trust me, you're in middle of the most crucial phase right now. Now they begin to gain weight.
You'll see very fast swelling if you got the nutrition dialed in - my advice is to increase your CalMag dosage just slightly and if you've got PK Boosters available now it's a good time to put them in use! If not, then just increase your Bloom dose or if any other Potasium supplements are in use. It's important to follow their needs right now for the real success.
Also you seem to have a good light fixture. But your day time temperature is a bit high if we take VPD in account. It's important to get the nutrition right, but it's also required that plant can properly transpire for better use of nutrients and ”better” rate of photosynthesis.
You definitely could dim your light for a bit and that already could solve the heatness. Also if possible I'd aim for 40% RH so then you've got no worries about mold! AND in a bit more dry environments the plants tend to have better flow of carbon hydrates, amino's aka plant sugars. And these have an affect on the size of the buds and their flavor.
For example check this VPD chart and try to aim somewhere between 1.3-1.5kPa.
Anything between 35-45% RH and tempertures ~22-27C would be an ideal.
I assume you never bought or assembled any kind of exhaust and or filtering system? I guess the outake is passive? Fortunately it doesn't seem to be a problem. Temperatures and humidity could become tricky.
Anyways the ladies looking great.
- Verb
@Verbalist is so strong on helping people out it's insane, what a post, and he's absolutely correct in every word of it as far as I could tell. He laid that chart on me too and I immediately downloaded it from the net cuz it's essential once you get it. He'll explain I'm sure, so I'll listen. But I did think you set your new dehumidifier to it's lowest setting right away, didn't you? What is the RH in there? If I put the unit anywhere below the canopy in open space I read 38%, if I read it with it's business end smashed into the canopy the canopy reading itself is usually around 42-44%. It only takes the amount of time it takes to water with the doors open for the RH to rise to 55! So it's continually running, and I am right in the correct range of this chart on all counts. They grow a lot more effectively when you are in range.
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- #667
Hi @Jon, I don't quite understand the table. The dehumidifier is set to 40% and I can reduce it to 30% and I can still increase the fan, so I will try to set it and see what it will do. The dehumidifier shows me a humidity of 41% and a thermometer that is about 30 cm higher shows 48% RH. So I'll try to make it stronger. What do you think?
Awwe I blush soon
Thanks.Well gotta admit I've learnt a lot from here and how would I say it, self-read
Even wifey says that I became a green thumb botanist because I appear to tell her when her plants and orchids needs ferts.
But yeah @Kanno26 - VPD is Vapor pressure deficit.
VPD in short words is kinda like a sum of the temperature and humidity. Tweaking your VPD you can get a better control of your tent environment.
VPD is often overlooked because people think it's too complicated thing.
The following chart I posted is an usual demostration of different VPD values which should be followed.
On the left you see C/F degress and then RH scale of 90-0%
And the rule or thumb is usually if your tent temp is for example 27C then your leaf offset temperature is around 1-2C lower.
If you're interested to learn more about VPD then I'd recommend to google about it. There is lots of pages where the whole thing is explained, guides for plants VPD tweaking and even simple calculators to calculate ideal VPD for you.
For example these two pages will give you a good general idea about it, plus these sites have a calculators included.
Especially Cannabis related VPD explanation
10min read - includes everything you need know 101
As you don't have an exhaust system assembled so you'd have to do the tweaks by adjusting your dehumidifier and your light intensity.
And about this; keep adjusting your dehumidifier until you get your tent at around 40-45% RH. Forget all the numbers on the dehumidifier screen. Use your sensor to scale it down. The sensor was saying you've got an avg 50% RH even tho dehumidifier is set to 40%. Or if you set the dehumidifier down to 30% are you getting 40% humidity inside the tent then?
If you reduce your RH down to 40%, then you'd have to reduce your temperature also.
I'd aim somewhere between 25-27C. Over 27C might trigger your plants later to start foxtailing, which is most common symptom of heat stress during the flowering.
Hope this helps
- V
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- #669
If I took the dehumidifier to stand in the room where the tent is, do you think I'll help? It will definitely lower the temperature by some 4 degrees but the humidity will probably rise. Maybe it won't have that news effect?Awwe I blush soon
Well gotta admit I've learnt a lot from here and how would I say it, self-read
Even wifey says that I became a green thumb botanist because I appear to tell her when her plants and orchids needs ferts.
But yeah @Kanno26 - VPD is Vapor pressure deficit.
VPD in short words is kinda like a sum of the temperature and humidity. Tweaking your VPD you can get a better control of your tent environment.
VPD is often overlooked because people think it's too complicated thing.
The following chart I posted is an usual demostration of different VPD values which should be followed.
On the left you see C/F degress and then RH scale of 90-0%
And the rule or thumb is usually if your tent temp is for example 27C then your leaf offset temperature is around 1-2C lower.
If you're interested to learn more about VPD then I'd recommend to google about it. There is lots of pages where the whole thing is explained, guides for plants VPD tweaking and even simple calculators to calculate ideal VPD for you.
For example these two pages will give you a good general idea about it, plus these sites have a calculators included.
Especially Cannabis related VPD explanation
10min read - includes everything you need know 101
As you don't have an exhaust system assembled so you'd have to do the tweaks by adjusting your dehumidifier and your light intensity.
And about this; keep adjusting your dehumidifier until you get your tent at around 40-45% RH. Forget all the numbers on the dehumidifier screen. Use your sensor to scale it down. The sensor was saying you've got an avg 50% RH even tho dehumidifier is set to 40%. Or if you set the dehumidifier down to 30% are you getting 40% humidity inside the tent then?
If you reduce your RH down to 40%, then you'd have to reduce your temperature also.
I'd aim somewhere between 25-27C. Over 27C might trigger your plants later to start foxtailing, which is most common symptom of heat stress during the flowering.
Hope this helps
- V
BubbaKush909
Well-Known Member
Good morning/afternoon Kanno! I just want to second what @Jon said, that's awesome info @Verbalist! It's tougher to control the environment in my room, temps and RH jump around like crazy. The colder it is outside the more I have to turn up the a/c unit in the room, it makes no sense. I really need to watch this chart closely. I always thought foxtails were an extra flowering bonus lol! Thanks for all the great info here and have a great day!Awwe I blush soon
Well gotta admit I've learnt a lot from here and how would I say it, self-read
Even wifey says that I became a green thumb botanist because I appear to tell her when her plants and orchids needs ferts.
But yeah @Kanno26 - VPD is Vapor pressure deficit.
VPD in short words is kinda like a sum of the temperature and humidity. Tweaking your VPD you can get a better control of your tent environment.
VPD is often overlooked because people think it's too complicated thing.
The following chart I posted is an usual demostration of different VPD values which should be followed.
On the left you see C/F degress and then RH scale of 90-0%
And the rule or thumb is usually if your tent temp is for example 27C then your leaf offset temperature is around 1-2C lower.
If you're interested to learn more about VPD then I'd recommend to google about it. There is lots of pages where the whole thing is explained, guides for plants VPD tweaking and even simple calculators to calculate ideal VPD for you.
For example these two pages will give you a good general idea about it, plus these sites have a calculators included.
Especially Cannabis related VPD explanation
10min read - includes everything you need know 101
As you don't have an exhaust system assembled so you'd have to do the tweaks by adjusting your dehumidifier and your light intensity.
And about this; keep adjusting your dehumidifier until you get your tent at around 40-45% RH. Forget all the numbers on the dehumidifier screen. Use your sensor to scale it down. The sensor was saying you've got an avg 50% RH even tho dehumidifier is set to 40%. Or if you set the dehumidifier down to 30% are you getting 40% humidity inside the tent then?
If you reduce your RH down to 40%, then you'd have to reduce your temperature also.
I'd aim somewhere between 25-27C. Over 27C might trigger your plants later to start foxtailing, which is most common symptom of heat stress during the flowering.
Hope this helps
- V
- Thread starter
- #671
Hi @Jon, @Verbalist, so I made some adjustments today, I released the dehumidifier at full and 30% RH, I raised the lights a little and reduced them to 75% power and I already got to 28 degrees Celsius and 43% humidity, so we'll see maybe it will help them. I'm still thinking if I put the light in and you let it go 100% so it might work what you think about it, thanks to everyone for your insight and for the advice.
.
Dehumidifier outside the tent wont do much. Especially because you had passive air flow.
If possible to modify - I'd try to attach 5" tube on it, and route the tube in from the tent intake air hole.
Some strains tend to produce foxtail looking ”eruptions”, but usually it's due the heat stress. Actually as we were talking about the VPD - increased VPD value has an impact. Because of the high heat at the tips of the buds plants are "forced" to transpire more etc etc. don't really know the exact science behid it.
On the leaves it usually shows up as a Potassium/Magnesium deficiency and leave edges taco up because opening and closing stomata does not function right.
Gret work! Pretty sure they'll thank you. I'm just little worried about your air being stagnant inside the tent. So a better VPD will definitely help them least for a bit. But as mentioned earlier it doesn't seem to be a problem. Now just ensure that it won't become to the problem during the final stretch …As you've got VPD under the control now
- V
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- #673
Thanks @Verbalist, I'll try to think about it but right now I have no hose but I'll see. It will monitor VPD and I will inform you, thanks for the explanationDehumidifier outside the tent wont do much. Especially because you had passive air flow.
If possible to modify - I'd try to attach 5" tube on it, and route the tube in from the tent intake air hole.
Some strains tend to produce foxtail looking ”eruptions”, but usually it's due the heat stress. Actually as we were talking about the VPD - increased VPD value has an impact. Because of the high heat at the tips of the buds plants are "forced" to transpire more etc etc. don't really know the exact science behid it.
On the leaves it usually shows up as a Potassium/Magnesium deficiency and leave edges taco up because opening and closing stomata does not function right.
Gret work! Pretty sure they'll thank you. I'm just little worried about your air being stagnant inside the tent. So a better VPD will definitely help them least for a bit. But as mentioned earlier it doesn't seem to be a problem. Now just ensure that it won't become to the problem during the final stretch …As you've got VPD under the control now
- V
.
Good Morning @Kanno26 - I can't improve on what @Verbalist already said or what you reported, that's great news. I will reiterate Verb's point about stagnant air. In a perfect world you want negative pressure in your tent, so that it looks a bit like an hourglass when it's sealed up. This results in the volume of air in the tent being recycled/replaced like every 45 seconds or something. This is what you want, and I would go as far as to say need. You need an outflow fan to create that. It will make your environmental control efforts WAY easier. A filter/fan combo is ideal, and I would recommend to you a 6" AC Infinity fan/filter combo would serve you quite well, it's excellent gear. Most everyone here uses them. And the filter will help a ton with your stealth. Rarely will a tent smell overwhelm a 6" filter.Thanks @Verbalist, I'll try to think about it but right now I have no hose but I'll see. It will monitor VPD and I will inform you, thanks for the explanation
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- #675
I forgot you rigged that up @Kanno26, sorry about that. Well, that's good, but I'd still consider investing in the real thing. If nothing else it will consolidate that long pipe and all that and everything would be inside the tent.
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- #677
@Kanno26 - what I mean is that a fan/filter combo inside the tent eliminates the need for your long black hose out to the window. What's that hose connected to? A fan? If so okay, you have the fan. Why not get a filter to attach to it? Then the exhaust air won't smell like weed and you can eliminate the black hose to the window?
But he'd still be venting into the room, keeping the warm moist air recirculating back into the tent.
By shoving it out the window he gets rids of some of that.
By shoving it out the window he gets rids of some of that.
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- #680
I have a hose sticking out of the window, I have two oscillating fans in the tent and a passive air supply, are you talking about that? I'm a little high so I'm stubborn