My First Journal, Kanno 26: I Will Grow 6 Critical Plants From Royal Queen Seeds

Thanks guys, I'm wondering if I should water the flower now or if it's still watering the ingredients for growth and also if they should be watered or not?
Ah, that's a different question, now it's clearer. I would feed veg nutes until you flip then begin to feed flowering nutes. Is that what you're asking?
 
One more thing I need advice from @Azimuth, do I still have girls to cut through or will I let them grow like this when they have vegetables in that week? Thanks for the reply.
Not sure I understand the question. The translator garbled this one a bit.

If you are asking if you should thin the foliage a bit I would say yes. You ultimately want each potential bud site to see the light and not be shaded by another fan leaf and you also want good air flow around each bud site or you'll invite mold and fungus later in the grow.

If, instead, you are asking if you should continue to top each branch, that is a different question. The beauty of quadlining is that there are minimal toppings to be done but still fill your space. Each time you top you set the plant back a bit while it repairs the damage. So generally, you top once at the beginning and then train the remaining four branches out to the four corners of your pot. As they are growing laterally to reach that pot edge you also train the other shoots along that branch to fill in any spaces and give proper air flow, all the while trying to keep everything level.

Once the main branches reach the outer edge of the container you let them turn upward toward the light and they will do so upward and a bit outward so the plant will be a bit wider than your pot. Once they reach about half the height of the space you have, flip them into flower. You only want to let them get to half the height of your space since they will stretch to be about twice as high in flower and you don't want them bumping into the lights. Pure sativas typically stretch more than indicas or hybrids, and they can stretch 3x as much as they were when you flipped them (or so I understand, although I've never grown a full sativa plant myself).

Hope that answers your question. If not, try again with different wording and we'll see if we can get the real question past the translator.

*******
Edited to add: When you're tying branches down and out to the sides and to fill gaps, try to make the canopy as flat as possible. If one branch is left taller than the others, the plant will treat that one as the leader and send a disproportionate amount of the hormones to it, and instead of that we want to keep everything nice and even so all bud sites get roughly the same amount of growth and then flowering hormones.
 
Smile for you @Kanno26 -

for Kanno.jpg
 
Not sure I understand the question. The translator garbled this one a bit.

If you are asking if you should thin the foliage a bit I would say yes. You ultimately want each potential bud site to see the light and not be shaded by another fan leaf and you also want good air flow around each bud site or you'll invite mold and fungus later in the grow.

If, instead, you are asking if you should continue to top each branch, that is a different question. The beauty of quadlining is that there are minimal toppings to be done but still fill your space. Each time you top you set the plant back a bit while it repairs the damage. So generally, you top once at the beginning and then train the remaining four branches out to the four corners of your pot. As they are growing laterally to reach that pot edge you also train the other shoots along that branch to fill in any spaces and give proper air flow.

Once the main branches reach the outer edge of the container you let them turn upward toward the light and they will do so upward and a bit outward so the plant will be a bit wider than your pot. Once they reach half the height of the space you have, flip them into flower. You only want to let them get to half the height of your space since they will stretch in flower and you don't want them bumping into the lights. Pure sativas typically stretch more than indicas or hybrids, and they can stretch 3x as much as they were when you flipped them (or so I understand, although I've never grown a full saliva plant myself).

Hope that answers your question. If not, try again with different wording and we'll see if we can get the real question past the translator.
Hi @Azimuth, thank you for the comprehensive answer that's exactly what I asked. But I plan to have my plant in vegetables for only nine days, which is probably not enough for the technique? What is the ideal time for that? I planned to have them in the vegetables for six weeks, and now the fifth week is over.
 
Hi @Azimuth, thank you for the comprehensive answer that's exactly what I asked. But I plan to have my plant in vegetables for only nine days, which is probably not enough for the technique? What is the ideal time for that? I planned to have them in the vegetables for six weeks, and now the fifth week is over.
My answer above is the ideal, and not letting them get more than half the height is the limiting factor. But that doesn't mean you have to take it that far or long. As long as the plant is throwing alternating bud sites and not opposite ones, it is mature enough to flower. This technique helps you space out the branches on your plant to its best advantage. So, using the LST (Low Stress Training) part of quadlining by tying down the branches as they grow toward the pot edge will help spread things out even if you don't wait for the entire process to finish.

The ideal way listed above ensures you maximize your space by not having any empty spaces that could have a bud in them, but that doesn't mean you have to do it that way or wait for it to finish.

I kind of do what you are proposing. I grow with a continual harvest on a monthly basis. So that means a plant gets harvested and another one gets promoted to the flower room once a month whether they're ready or not :p. And by that I mean, I'd rather have something in flower in the designated space, than screw up the timing of everything else because it would have been more ideal to give a plant an extra week or two in veg.
 
My answer above is the ideal, and not letting them get more than half the height is the limiting factor. But that doesn't mean you have to take it that far or long. As long as the plant is throwing alternating bud sites and not opposite ones, it is mature enough to flower. This technique helps you space out the branches on your plant to its best advantage. So, using the LST (Low Stress Training) part of quadlining by tying down the branches as they grow toward the pot edge will help spread things out even if you don't wait for the entire process to finish.

The ideal way listed above ensures you maximize your space by not having any empty spaces that could have a bud in them, but that doesn't mean you have to do it that way.

I kind of do what you are proposing. I grow with a continual harvest on a monthly basis. So that means a plant gets harvested and another one gets promoted to the flower room once a month whether they're ready or not :p. And by that I mean, I'd rather have something in flower in the designated space, than screw up the timing of everything else because it would have been more ideal to give a plant an extra week or two in veg.
Wow what a great answer Azi! So this:
As long as the plant is throwing alternating bud sites and not opposite ones, it is mature enough to flower.
Did not know that. Very useful and helpful information. Way. Gracias.
I grow with a continual harvest on a monthly basis.

This is exactly the goal I am trying to achieve. I think I have to skill set to manage it that way now. Harvesting something once a month? Yeah I want that. Also takes the pressure off worrying so hard about any individual plant. So I'm curious how long/how many grows did it take you before you could say you successfully harvest once a month, even if it's only one plant?

Thank you sir!
 
That's exactly what I wanted to hear;) @Azimuth, I want to get another tent to do this system. Now I've watered the girls and I'll cut them out a bit and I'll see how they go when it's the worst so I'll extend it by a week it'll like it @Jon :D
You're hilarious Kanno! But yeah, I like it. Lol. Longer you go = bigger the plant = bigger the buds. You got this! And Azi has you in the right place with the training.
 
Wow what a great answer Azi! So this:
As long as the plant is throwing alternating bud sites and not opposite ones, it is mature enough to flower.
Did not know that. Very useful and helpful information. Way. Gracias.
I grow with a continual harvest on a monthly basis.

This is exactly the goal I am trying to achieve. I think I have to skill set to manage it that way now. Harvesting something once a month? Yeah I want that. Also takes the pressure off worrying so hard about any individual plant. So I'm curious how long/how many grows did it take you before you could say you successfully harvest once a month, even if it's only one plant?

Thank you sir!
Given the constraints of my space, this is the way I started out. It just seemed to make the most sense given what I have to work with.

The once a month (or so) harvest is the ideal. Harvesting happens when it happens (i.e. when the trichomes say it's ready) and the rest of the schedule is adjusted meaning a plant fills the vacated space as available even if it could've/should've vegged for longer.

A harvest once a month means each of three flowering plants gets 12 weeks max in the flower space. Most of the strains I grow are 8-10 week strains, but then you also have to add in the transition in the beginning after flip which can add another week or two. It's best to use strains with a maximum expected flower time of 10 weeks (with this schedule at least), so that cuts down on your strain options a little bit.

So, that means a 10 week strain plus another 2 weeks at the beginning for transition equals the 12 week total. Most of my stuff is indica dominant and those have shorter flowering times than the sativas, or hybrids which are dominated by the other side of the ledger.

The continual harvest is great. Much less processing time at each harvest, which means less drying space needed, less storage required, less of a disaster if a particular plant has problems, etc.

I grow in a converted TV cabinet and my grow space has a total footprint of about 5 square feet. It's stacked and each of the two levels is about 3 feet/1m wide by about half that deep.

The veg space is on the bottom and only has about 20" (50cm) of height including lights. The top section is the flower box and is about 3'/1m square (tall x wide). So, as you can imagine my plants are pretty small as each of the three in flower only get 1/3 of the width to themselves. And that also means there is limited space in the veg section since it has to house my propagation section, my seedling and clone section and the next plant that is vegging out before going into flower. There's really only space for one of those, so the continual harvest suits my set-up the best.

This is my first run with this cabinet so I'm still learning it's quirks, but believe it or not, it's actually a bigger total space than I had before. So, not quite a micro grow, bit a mini for sure!
 
Given the constraints of my space, this is the way I started out. It just seemed to make the most sense given what I have to work with.

The once a month (or so) harvest is the ideal. Harvesting happens when it happens (i.e. when the trichomes say it's ready) and the rest of the schedule is adjusted meaning a plant fills the vacated space as available even if it could've/should've vegged for longer.

A harvest one a month means each of three flowering plants gets 12 weeks max in the flower space. Most of the strains I grow are 8-10 week strains, but then you also have to add in the transition in the beginning after flip which can add another week or two. It's best to use strains with a maximum expected flower time of 10 weeks, so that cuts down on your strain options a little bit.

So, that means a 10 week strain plus another 2 weeks at the beginning for transition equals the 12 week total. Most of my stuff is indica dominant and those have shorter flowering times than the sativas, or hybrids which are dominated by the other side of the ledger.

The continual harvest is great. Much less processing time at each harvest, which means less drying space needed, less storage required, less of a disaster if a particular plant has problems, etc.

I grow in a converted TV cabinet and my grow space has a total footprint of about 5 square feet. It's stacked and each of the two levels is about 3 feet/1m wide by about half that deep.

The veg space is on the bottom and only has about 20" (50cm) of height including lights. The top section is the flower box and is about 3'/1m square (tall x wide). So, as you can imagine my plants are pretty small as each of the three in flower only get 1/3 of the width to themselves. And that also means there is limited space in the veg section since it has to house my propagation section, my seedling and clone section and the next plant that is vegging out before going into flower. There's really only space for one of those, so the continual harvest suits my set-up the best.

This is my first run with this cabinet so I'm still learning it's quirks, but believe it or not, it's actually a bigger total space than I had before. So, not quite a micro grow, bit a mini for sure!
Wow. Again, you're turning me into Spock. Fascinating. That is some serious space efficiency. I get what you're saying on the way you do it and thanks for the info. Old TV cabinet? Wow. Now that you say that I wish I still had the old piece of furniture called a TV I had growing up. That thing had a cabinet bigger than a 30 gallon tote. And man, no wonder you're so down on the training - in that setup you have no choice!

Awesome. Gracias.
 
Wow. Again, you're turning me into Spock. Fascinating. That is some serious space efficiency. I get what you're saying on the way you do it and thanks for the info. Old TV cabinet? Wow. Now that you say that I wish I still had the old piece of furniture called a TV I had growing up. That thing had a cabinet bigger than a 30 gallon tote. And man, no wonder you're so down on the training - in that setup you have no choice!

Awesome. Gracias.
Thanks @Jon, I'll see how they benefit;) flower should be 6-7 weeks so it could be just :D
 
Wow. Again, you're turning me into Spock. Fascinating. That is some serious space efficiency. I get what you're saying on the way you do it and thanks for the info. Old TV cabinet? Wow. Now that you say that I wish I still had the old piece of furniture called a TV I had growing up. That thing had a cabinet bigger than a 30 gallon tote. And man, no wonder you're so down on the training - in that setup you have no choice!

Awesome. Gracias.
For me, it's the fun of growing, and the challenge of doing it in a small space. And I just grow for me and don't need a whole lot of product. Most of it goes into my olive oil bottle for use on my salads, but I just got an Instant Pot so I can try @bluter 's vegetable glycerin tincture recipe.

First harvest from this cab is coming up in a week or two and I'm psyched to give it a try,
 
For me, it's the fun of growing, and the challenge of doing it in a small space. And I just grow for me and don't need a whole lot of product. Most of it goes into my olive oil bottle for use on my salads, but I just got an Instant Pot so I can try @bluter 's vegetable glycerin tincture recipe.

First harvest from this cab is coming up in a week or two and I'm psyched to give it a try,
Cool and I hear you. So do you not smoke? Just edibles/tinctures and such?
 
I just got an Instant Pot so I can try @bluter 's vegetable glycerin tincture recipe.


it's delicious. biased opinion though solicited from unbiased folk :cheesygrinsmiley:

imagine all day happy.
 
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