Musik's Indoor DWC ClosetGrow 400w HPS

Onthe420Train- I went and got a pic. I think that I burned the tap root that was coming out when i added the nutes. Thats what I was thinking. after I added nutes the roots touching the water got slimey. when I noticed this(on the 7th) I also noticed more roots shooting down and they look great. Good luck on your clones I can't wait to get to that point. lol I really want to SCrog/NFT. We'll see what happens when I get there however.

Doctor Dread-lol it does seem easy...so far! lol

Tortured Soul-Thanks for the info on the PH/temp tester, Im definately ready for one of those and thats about what im looking to pay for them. They can be spendy.
AK-48 IS an autoflowering strain and I don't know much about them...so im gonna do some research. Regardless if thats true or not I was planning on puttin my HPS on a flowering schedule and leaving it there. Eventually putting up a rail for the 400w to move across the closet and light up the entire 16 sq foot space. Having a perpetual harvest. Thats probably how it finishes in 48 days like they advertise huh? lol

The picture was fuzzy :thedoubletake: but its AK-48 that just popped today.
ak-48_seedling.JPG


Here's the picture of the messed up root, its the orange looking one thats longer than the rest, I really wasn't sure if I should try and hack it off or let nature take its course. My thoughts were if its something wrong with the water the other roots should exhibit the same symptoms. Like as if algae was present in the water.
roots001.JPG


Thanks for stopping by Y'all. I am currently contemplating when the right time is going to be to move the next set of plants into the flower area. When really I only have one right now that I'd consider. But in about a month If I wanted im sure I could either move the seedlings I have currently down there, or maybe have a few clones from the current plant I have in vegetation.(The one I sort of have a timeline on in my previous post.) I really wanna try my hand in cloning. So im going to :grinjoint:

Musik
 
High musikgenman.

Might I suggest a little hydrogen peroxide to keep the nasties away. I use it right from the word go in my tubs and regularly throughout the grow. Still have nice clean roots after 92 days without a nute change.

Nice note about the pre-flower ID. After all these years I still wait for a hair or two. lol +rep

I'm going to take a very close look at my two Kali babies and see if I can pick 'em right.

Thanks.

:peace:
 
Now I can't sleep, grumble grumble grumble (lol). Ramble on...

musikgenman said:
Anyhow one of the biggest lessons so far that I've learned is that:
Relative Humidity is NOT humidity.
Relative Humidity is much more important than humidity.
Relative Humidity is hardly understood.
Relative Humidity can be the difference between a good grow and a bad grow.
Relative Humidity is easily overlooked by noobs.
Click to expand...

? Humidity is how much moisture is in the air. RH is the amount of moisture in the air as a percentage, with 100% being how much moisture that air can hold at that temperature. Or something like that. Then there's dew point, why RH goes up as temperature goes down (all other factors being the same, that is), and why some nights it doesn't frost even though it was colder than the night before (when it did).

Now I've gone and confused myself!

AND managed to delete the other quotes that I'd multi-quoted.

I don't know that I'd try to double your coverage with a light-rail. Maybe more like 150%? YMMV. Guess it depends on what you're growing; sativas seem to like a lot of light, like 102 watts (of HPS) per square foot, minimum, while indicas seem to be perfectly fine with less. People used to ask me why the #@%! I had so much light in tiny little spaces, then they'd turn around and want to know how I managed to produce bigger, denser bud even though I had 1/2 their light (Answer: Because mine was in a small closet and theirs was in a fairly large bedroom?). They did seem to harvest more bud, but I liked mine better (as did they, when they ran out:ganjamon:). Oh well, different smokes for different folks, ya? There's more than one way to skin a joint.

Did you set the net pot with the colored roots down on something while changing your reservoir, by chance? Maybe it's simple damage or contamination instead of some kind of disease or the like. I don't see any "live" supplements in your nutrient mix, so I'm guessing that's not it. Is your reservoir light tight or only "shady?" If not, and you've got one to swap it out, do so and paint it('s outside) black. Most of the nasties that can grow in it - besides roots - will do so in the presence of light.

Also, you can never get too much DO in your reservoir. Well, you can, but it's highly unlikely in real-world gardening conditions, lol. You want it oxygenated to the point where if a mouse were to fall in, it'd take it all weekend to get about the business of drowning.

You know what I just realized? I have never actually used a net pot. Most of the time I just drilled so many 1/4" holes into those giant red Solo cups that you couldn't fill one to the brim with a fire hose. They always worked great for me, although the combination of the hydroton, the massive growth of roots (that always managed to just fill the reservoir by harvest day), and the TREE pushing upwards into the screen tended to utterly destroy the cups, but by then they were truly living in the res and were well-past noticing. Still, you CAN grow a tree (if it's got a trunk, I'm calling it a tree) in a plastic cup. Just don't expect it to stay in one, lol.

Time keeps on slippin... Old-school. Have to throw out a REP for that reference if I can. Got a few beautiful tunes on that old album. Think that's the one with the hash-oil stains on it. Ahh, memories (that I can't seem to remember):grinjoint:.

Noticed you've got 280ppm water. How much of that is from calcium? If it's not because of that, should you be using the Hardwater Micro? I'm thinking the difference is that it's got a good bit less of that in it than the regular, that that's the main (only?) difference. But I'm not positive, anyone know for sure?

Speaking of GH HM, someone who didn't filter their water told me that they let it sit in open containers for 12 hours to evaporate the bleach I mean chlorine (they pack it in here, sick people can't even hold it down), then mixed following proper procedure (ALWAYS Micro first), then areated that solution for an additional 12 hours before doing any required pH adjusting and putting in their reservoir. I got the feeling that they were saying that if they used it right after mixing that it would not have stabilized yet. I'm afraid I didn't put much effort into learning what they meant because I was using 10-15ppm water at the time. Wish I'd paid more attention. They live in Denmark now, AFAIK, and I no longer have contact info.

Anyway, what (exactly) is your mixing/feeding process? I assume you use clean syringes, pipettes, or whatever to draw from each bottle - GH is pretty much at the saturation limit and a goof like cross-contaminating the micro bottle (or even allowing it to get close to freezing) can cause things to precipitate out of solution. What's his name at GH told me once that it's like liquid fabric softener, in that if it did freeze you could mix it with an equal amount of hot water (and then double your mixing amount from there forward) but that if it precipitated due to contamination that I'd want to toss it and grab another bottle. Well, jug.

Like LabRat mentioned, H2O2 is beneficial in most DWC setups. Both because it can control or prevent growth of certain baddies, and because it's yet another source of O2 in your solution as it breaks down. A win-win as long as you do not add it in toxic amounts.

There was something else - and it was why I decided to post this message - but I can't remember what it was. Maybe after I (hopefully) sleep for... an hour and 11 minutes <UGH!> I'll think of it? I've got to quit PWE (posting while exhausted) - but then I'd never be able to post.
 
High TorturedSoul. I had my son bring me 3-1gal jugs of AN nutes from the west coast. When we took them off the truck they were frozen solid. That was in 2004 and I'm almost out of bloom. Maybe the problem is with GH nutes? :rofl:

It's true! I swear on a stack of High Times. :bong:

+Rep for all the good stuff in that post.

:peace:
 
I finally gave up on sleeping. Who needs it, sleep is for turtles, right? 'Course, that's probably how some of them manage to live upwards of 500 years, but...

Going to have to try AN one of these years, I've heard good things.

You got five plus YEARS out of a set of gallons?!?

Man... Going to HAVE to try AN one of these years...
 
Thanks TorturedSoul :grinjoint:

I pretty much agree with everything you've posted there. LOL Even MJ needs sleep lol

I'll try my best to cover your concerns and questions.
I've done so much research on relative humidity just trying to be able to put it in lamens terms. Fyuck that!!!(Fyuck is fuck + yuck at the same time)
The most specific I can actually come grammatically is relative humidity measures water vapor pressure.(Which is basically the relationship of dewpoint to the temperature called relative humidity{% of water vapor in air versus how much water vapor the air can hold}) You got it, at least said it fairly right lol
What amazes me is how much our lives are affected by how relative the humidity is. LOL
About the orange root under the net pot. That was the tap root, just one root growing down with a bunch of hairs on it. When it was in just plain water for a couple days it was fine. I then added nutes and I think I added too much to fast. Although I had already been feeding that plant 1/4 strength before moving to the bucket. I'm pretty sure that I didn't set the pot down on anything, I dont like to pull them out except for just to look. Anything else I just lift the lid of the tote. I'm not sure anyone will know why that root got slimy and turned orange for sure(I have to assume root rot due to something) but at least its documented for future reference lol
My tap water. Yes I label it at 280ppm. Ok its time to be completely honest. I have read about ppm being lower in cold tap water and being higher in hot tap water. I tested this theory. I didn't record actual numbers at certain temps but I will tell you this. With my tap on hottest i can get it, running for a few minutes...the ppm read 500 or higher(different times of day seemed to alter the ppm) with my tap on the coldest i could get it, running for a few minutes...the ppm read 240(this stays the same all times of day). After it gets to room temp it ups to 280ppm. What I haven't done is get a mineral fact sheet from our water company. They will tell you what the ppm is and what is in it.
Now our house has a water softener, but it is bypassed at the moment, I can tell you that Calcium and lime buildup like crazy on our faucets and showerheads. I am just finishing up the regular micro, and actually have yet to crack the hardwater micro. I have however looked up the mineral content of both bottles and its just calcium and magnesium i think that the hardwater is lacking.
Now the last two grows I didn't use Superthrive. This time im using Superthrive. I used Superthrive on my first grow, ran out of superthrive and didn't use it until i just got some new. I can say that I contributed the success of my first grow to beginners luck, but I think the Superthrive might have had a hand in it so im gonna try it again and see what happens. LOL i know this had nothing to do with your post Tortured, just my highass thinking shit and thinking its relative.
Dang Tortured I thought thats what the journal is for? Ok well ill be quick.
Sterilize everything with Clorox bleach.
Run tap water for a few minutes(get as low as a ppm as possible)
fill up 8-10 water jugs-let sit open for 48 hours
fill buckets with water-add airstone line and pump
put ph below but close to 7(liquid drop test kit-will have ph meter soon
mix nutes, always mix micro with water first
ok for feeding, in veg I keep it under 1000ppm(i think my ppm meter is .5 conversion) i change the nute solution when i begin flower, I am trying a modified lucas method. 6ml micro/9ml bloom throughout grow veg and flower
give regular nutes for a couple weeks for the stretch
give bloom nutes after couple weeks
I haven't changed my reservoir once flower begins. So far I have not understood a logical reason to do so.
on this grow I have tried to do an 'add back' using equation from lucas formula
on previous grows i just mixed nutes per gallon on every gallon and added that back when water level lowered in reservoir I didn't let the ppm get above 2,000ppm if it did then i gave the reservoir plain ph'd to 7 water.
I wanna try the addback formula so i'm not doing this:
adding small amount of nutes-testing ppm
adding small amount of nutes-testing ppm
adding small amount of nutes-testing ppm

Yeah Tortured I pretty much agree with what your saying. I am blessed you stopped by. This is the first grow that I have recorded ppms and ph fluctuations, so Im hoping to right now just compile data. I was gonna post that stuff on here as I went along but I think that would be too tedious to do right now. Maybe i'll transfer the data I have on paper to computer and keep track digital...lol I haven't kept track of it everyday but when I do check i been writing it down, I gotta ease into this hobby...toke toke

Anyway Tortured I hope you are relieved....some. 4th grow and I'm rocking it...I think. just look at those bushes man I have no idea the strain but I think so far they look Indica(which is good for me) and they seem to so far all be of the same strain, just which strain is it. Who cares!!! LOL lets get some big danky budz on them.(make sure to check out the ones in my flower chamber, 5 gallon buckets)

p.s. I just wanted to add that I at first thought the root got attacked by algae so I did dump an almost full bottle pint of H202 into the container. Since doing that I have read that it is great for DWC. Its like Hydrogen Peroxide is overlooked, why havne't I read this before...Zillions of hours of reading through zillions of journals/sites LOL could be just me. I remember the exact moment I discovered what fiber was. It was like once I learned about it I found it everywhere...my parents did lots of drugs LOL my only excuse

Musik :peace:
 
High again Musik. I posted this in my thread to your question about whether or not to change nutes. I'll save you the trip and post it here too. As I still haven't changed nutes in 92 days I've done a lot of thinking on the subject. Here's some of it.

I'm pretty sure you don't need to monitor each nute separately. Understanding the plant's needs at the various stages of it's development should allow you to feed the plant what it needs at the time it needs it. My first grows using hydro nutes, the nutes came in dry salt form in ziplock baggies with a basic recipe for tomatoes. I'd like to get back to those kind of nutes. It would be easier for me to control a few more aspects of my plants feeding.

As to changing nutes, I plan on writing a synopsis of my whole grow with details of my plans to run my next tub grow with maybe one full nute change. with these plants I'd do it at about the 4th or 5th week of flowering. As it is now I start my clones or seedlings at 300-500 ppm and leave it there until the girls are rockin'. A week before I want to flower them I bump the ppm up to ~850 with a heavy dose of bloom and regular grow and micro. Then switch to 12/12 and in 3-5 days I've got hairs. I only vegged for 12 days in the tubs with these ones. The stretch period needs lots of everything and if you've got bud boosters now's the time to get max flower formation. If not extra bloom and micro with a little grow, ppm ~1500. If you know how long your stretch is going to be letting the plants eat the nutes down to ~650 at the end of stretch is about perfect. Then you can tweak the nutes with later stage bloom enhancers and some more, but not too much bloom, mic and a dash of grow so the ppm ends up ~12 - 1400. The plants feeding will slow drastically as soon as the stretch ends and remain pretty steady with gradual slowing to the end unless there are growth spurts or a change in their environment. If you take regular ppm readings like I usually do you can almost tell when a growth spurt is coming by a more pronounced drop in the ppm over a few days. Adding more lights or CO2 can increase feeding as well. This is a good thing and probably better for your yield than throwing a pile of fancy, expensive bling at them!

This was going to be a 3 or 4 line response but I got carried away like usual. lol If this is any indication my synopsis will likely end up a freakin' thesis. :laughtwo:

C'ya L8r.

:peace:
 
I still remember the moment that made me think twice about it. During my first grow... I had been changing the reservoirs every 10-14 days. I ended up having a 5 gallon that i dont think got changed. I didn't notice until I pulled up the airstone and it wasn't clean like the others. The water of course had the same reddish tone it always has when full of nutes. But the plant was nuts, bigger than the rest greener, definately had a better shine than the other plants. I was kinda stunned. I remember I didn't change the reservoirs anymore on my first grow and only did them sparingly when I thought they needed it(one of my airstones clogged from salt buildup and wasn't oxygenating the water and the roots darkened, i changed the airstone, nute solution and roots became white again, smoke was good from that plant)
Ever since that moment tho from my first grow I just can't get myself to change the reservoir as often as I've initially thought it was necessary.

LOL RoorRip :bong:

Musik :yummy: :ganjamon: :yahoo:
 
Reservoir change - and whether to flush and if so, how much - is one of those questions that is unanswerable on its own merits.

Depends greatly on other factors. Are the girls getting what they need - but not too much? Do you keep the pH in the range that what you are feeding them is able to be used instead of just sitting in the tank? Do you see much (any?) salt buildup on your media? And so on.

Truth be told, I suspect that a lot (not saying all by any stretch) changes/flushes ARE necessary simply because a grower either got lazy or just hadn't learned to "read" his/her grow & plants. If you approach harvest day and you've got a layer of salt crust everywhere, your plants are still being burned by over-fertillization, if the girls look like they've been fed for another six weeks of life, yeah, that's going to take a little work if you don't want to harvest an infamous crop of "fireproof" bud (happened to a friend - and he was growing in DIRT (admittedly, nothing that we'd honor with the term "soil," but you get the picture), lol. Stuff would be crumbly-dry and you'd have to pass the lighter with the joint every time.

But I've also seen grows where you'd wonder HtH the plants made it to harvest because it seemed like they dropped their last leaf the night before harvest, the media (with the exception of root-matter) could have passed for new almost, the guy just went in and said, "Yep, timed that 'pretty good'," and started cutting. A dry and a 28-day short-cure later and... Could it have tasted better? Who knows, but the stuff would burn until you put it out, the ash was white as could be and you didn't need to knock it off the end with a hammer, and NOBODY puked from tasting it (coughed up a toenail or two, but...).

So (luck notwithstanding), I'd say...

It all depends, lol.

BtW: (Wanted to type this this morning but by the time I gave up on trying to sleep I had to get ready for work.) Saw where you took TDS readings of hot and cold H2O from your tap. How's the TDS meter? A good auto-temperature-compensating one? Did you try letting the hot cool to room temperature and the cold warm to same and check them both again?

Not saying your results would have been any different; I'm just a curious little sh*t.

Oh, someone mentioned "component salts" as feed (LabRat?) If one had such, and a good dosing system, including monitors for as many of the component parts as possible (they're out there but NOT cheap; $$$ like the dissolved oxygen meter I looked at), then I'd expect that reservoir changes and flushes would be not nearly as important.

Still gettin' into the journal!
 
well I run different system but I change my res out entirely every 2 weeks. I load it up with about 25 gals - keep it topped with fresh then readjust ppms after a week. Then after the 2nd week I should end up with under 5-10 gallons of the nutes left. I'm actually changing to pure salts very soon so I can get away with changing my reservoir much less often.
 
TorturedSoul said:
I finally gave up on sleeping. Who needs it, sleep is for turtles, right? 'Course, that's probably how some of them manage to live upwards of 500 years, but...

Going to have to try AN one of these years, I've heard good things.

You got five plus YEARS out of a set of gallons?!?

Man... Going to HAVE to try AN one of these years...
Click to expand...

I'm Scottish so I'm stingy with my nutes and I only do a couple of grows a year like the one I'm doing now.

I haven't used any different nutes really but I like AN as my pH is really stable and the plants sure seem to like it.

The nutes in the tub are still crystal clear after 92 days without a change and are like that when I toss them out.

I stick with stuff I like. Heinz ketchup, Tide, Appleton Estates Jamaican rum and Chevys are just a few. lol

C'ya

:peace:
 
yeah i've never dumped cloudy nutes, always clear and reddish(from the GH micro) I wonder if adding the Peroxide and what not help out. I know for sure that things go bad quickly if the water isn't oxygenated enough. I experienced that when one of my airstones was fairly clogged. Gonna go look again at what all you put into the res before you add the plants LabRat420.

Musik :grinjoint:
 
Gonna post my recordings thus far of PPM's and noticeable events. I was originally recording PH also. That was too tedious a task translating the color code on the liquid testing bottle LOL to something understandable. Once I get a PH meter with pinpoint accuracy I will pick back up that habit.
My goal with this grow is to harvest 15 oz from 3 plants. I have the 400w closer to the tops than i have ever let it get before. With the air cooled reflector I think its time. Anyways I'm no expert on heat damage but so far i do not see any damage, and the light is about 9-10 inches from the tops of the plants. I'm one week into flower and I have thought real hard about topping or fimming to stop the main stem from growing for a short time while the rest catches up. Because I'm not hooked up on a Recirc DWC I can't put a screen down. I'd love to otherwise. I have only grown regular plants so far...gotta start somewhere lol but if I could somehow flatten the grow I can continue to keep the light spread even on more colas. The first thing I gotta decide is how im gonna stop the main stem from growing up.
With that said the tops are exploding, I have been pulling the stems down everyday really lightly but down as far as possible, I have been pushing the big fan leaves down and trying to get the stems access to more light, i figure that the fan leaves are so big they don't need full light, the branches on the fan leaves are almost as thick as the stem LOL you can tell that fan leaves can't lift themselves up but i understand why the stems are so big.... transporting a ton of food and water LOL Anyhow I want these plants to finish before 4/20 so im not so sure that topping or fimming is exactly a great idea, if i have to I'll just harvest partial plants. Might not be cured in time but should be smokable, I'll roll up a few blunts FO SHO, hit the vap...life is good LOL anyhow on to the data.

So I haven't been the best scientist...i haven't been on top of gathering my control data. I'm working on that. Tough when your busy doing other things in life like looking for a job LOL but even so I can tell that Im gonna learn a few things doing this so It will be good for me

Ok A straight copy and paste from my records. Its a single record that actually breaks off into 3 records once I separate the plants into 5 gallon buckets. Plant A. Plant B. Plant C.

Sunleaves TDS Pen assuming that conversion is at .5 not exactly sure.

tap is 240-280ppm, im going by the high end
when i say i ph'd my water, I ph my tap water from 5.5 to 6.0, and 4 ml of ph down after nutes always brings the ph where I need it so I just add 4 ml of ph down to every gallon now and check one every once in a while to make sure its still working. Another reason to pick up a ph meter soon.

4 Plants with 6 gallons water in ten gallon tote to start, will be moving any females to 5 gallon buckets and moving the tote to veg area to get more plants ready
using 6 ml micro/9 ml bloom per gallon
ph 5.5-6.0

Date Nutes
1/24 632-280=350ppm
1/26 865-280=600ppm
1/31 840-280=580ppm
2/2 740-280=460ppm
2/3 776-280=496ppm
2/4 776-280=496ppm
2/5 700-280=420ppm
added 1 gallon of ph'd tap water, 6 hours later added nutes
2/5 845-280=565ppm
2/6 795-280=515ppm
culled one male, moved the 3 female plants to 5 gallon buckets, gave them an increase in food and switched to 12/12-3 new seedlings
2/8 1000-280=720ppm A. This is the vigourous plant
970-280=690ppm B. This is 'control plant' normal
980-280=700ppm C. This plant had flexline at first, changed to airstone much better
2/10 1030-280=750ppm A.
960-280=680ppm B.
1030-280=750ppm C.
One new seedling totalling 4 and AK-48 popped. Added almost a gallon of ph'd(5.5-6.0) water to each 5 gallon bucket
2/11 700-280=420ppm A.
750-280=470ppm B.
750-280=470ppm C.
Moved 4 seedlings under T-5 in ten gallon Tote, ph'd water and superthrive
AK-48 popped surface of rockwool.
2/13 550-280=270ppm A. vigorous plant moved to plant B's spot
790-280=510ppm B. smallest moved into plant C's spot,
720-280=430ppm C. medium sized one moved into plant A's spot
Added 20ml/30ml micro/bloom to A. Added 14ml/21ml to B. Added 15ml/22ml to C. Checked PPM after about 20 minutes.
1060-280=780ppm A.
990-280=710ppm B.
1020-280=740ppm C.
2/14 960-280=740ppm A.
1030-280=780ppm B.
1120-280=840ppm C.

So when I moved the plants from the tote to 5 gallon buckets they got their reservoir change. That's the only one I plan on doing unless the leaves all start falling off too early.
I was looking over the data thinking of a few ways to improve, like if I had a worksheet like teachers used to give that would be awesome. LOL Guess i'll have to make my own. But I could definately jot down times im testing solution, and check the solution twice a day lights on and lights off. I can do times from now on but twice a day is gonna be rough LOL

Before I hit the submit button i been looking over the data thinking to myself that I gotta definately check the ppms twice a day for a week, cause If im not mistaken it looks like two plants are either adding ppms to their reservoirs or only drinking water, Plant A. which is the largest, is eating nutes like a mofo. While the other two plants seem to be gollilagging. Well I moved the plants around so that those two are getting the most intensive light for now.

Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!!! :yahoo: :grinjoint: :bong: :peace:

Musik
 
Looks pretty good but leave the 280ppm of your tap water in your final value - don't take it out. The total count of dissolved solids is what counts. If you want an EC of 2.0 and you rap is .56 (like yours) you would only add 1.44 of nutes not 2.0 on top of the tap, so the ppm reading with the 280 in it is the one you want to look at.
 
musikgenman said:
My goal with this grow is to harvest 15 oz from 3 plants. I have the 400w
Click to expand...

A gram per watt? An admirable goal, but not easy. Pretty much requires you to hit the sweet spots in root-zone oxygenation, nutrient uptake (and availability - IOW, not being out of the correct pH range), light (including using every lumen by making sure that you're not lighting any area where the plants aren't), heat, humidity, etc. - and keeping things that way.

musikgenman said:
Because I'm not hooked up on a Recirc DWC I can't put a screen down.
Click to expand...

Meaning that you've got to be able to pull the buckets to access your nutrients? If you've got an area that is lower than the bottom of your buckets, you can do quite a lot with a hillbilly gas pump (rubber hose). And there are those little hand "pumps" (siphon with a squeeze-bulb) that people buy for a couple bucks in Winter to transfer kerosene from a fuel can to their heater's tank. But yeah, it'd suck to set up a screen, have your plants growing into it - and your buds growing through it - and suddenly realize you've got to get a plant out of there for some reason.

musikgenman said:
if I could somehow flatten the grow I can continue to keep the light spread even on more colas.
Click to expand...

Word.

musikgenman said:
I was looking over the data thinking of a few ways to improve, like if I had a worksheet like teachers used to give that would be awesome. LOL Guess i'll have to make my own.
Click to expand...

A decent office suite (spreadsheet, database, etc.) is pretty useful at times. There's a free one called OpenOffice. There are probably others.
 
Onthe420train, Tortured - great advice.

I kinda thought 1 gram per watt was the norm and getting .5 gram per watt was on low end. With that said im thinking a 600w would have been better with my set up size and space might be almost overkill but with the awesome ventilation the plants can get within inches of this HPS without burning. I understand that I wont be able to get them as close with a 600w but I realized, that with the 400w light and the space I have it doesn't really matter how many plants I have at Maximum Potential of Light vs space its the same amount of bud. D'oh click clack clank Duh!

One of my thoughts/ideas/considerations is a light mover. Now my space is 6.5 feet long by 2.5 feet wide. More of like a rectangle. The 400w illuminates 60% of the space...9 sq ft...its 7 more sq feet i'm trying to reach and a light mover will move the light back and forth illuminating the entire 16 sq ft. I understand I'll probably get a little stretch, but once I'm cloning and even now. I can fit more plants and get more bud. Its something I'm probably gonna do. I only need the light moving back and forth about 3 feet to get all the plants some light intensity.

So would one consider .5 gram per watt decent? I'd say its a great start that I would love to see if I could make a few small improvements to increase that. At this point I really think training to flatten and even out the canopy is the only way considering my light and space.... fellow grasshoppaZzZzZzZ

I love realizations but I hate when they make you feel stupid lol
1st grow 2 plants harvested 7 oz+
2nd grow destroyed
3rd grow 3 plants harvested almost 7 oz
4th grow 3 plants...too be continued-goal 15-when I wanna land on the moon I shoot for stars!

OpenOffice-I'm there!

Musik :ganjamon: RoorRip :peace: :thankyou:
 
Ok, A month may be a bit too long. The pics I will deliver today won't be the grandest of plants anyone has ever seen but a month definately delivers a quite of bit of time for things to grow :grinjoint: With all due apologies, I finally got a camera. Obviously I must borrow one, and one has not been available to me to borrow and I'm not the richest guy on earth. So without any further delay....Enjoy! :ganjamon: :peace::bong:



6wks1.JPG

huge.JPG

001334.jpg

002368.jpg
003341.jpg

004330.jpg

So there is 3 plants, I think i can up the ppm of the solution. I can't believe how different these plants are. This new program I am trying out seems to be working fine, but I am unsure. The pinks and purples, yellow leaves. Almost seems as If its hungry, But everything else about the plants are healthy.

Now below are veggin pics, I am very pleased with the results so far. Plenty of clones once I have everything I need to do so. Sorry about the dim light, The only plant that has shown preflowers is the plant in the 5 gallon pale. I was hoping to rid this area of a few males but I may have to wait a week or so.
veg001.JPG

veg002.JPG

veg003.JPG

veg004.JPG

veg_005.JPG

veg006.JPG

veg007.JPG

veg_conditions.JPG
 
Back
Top Bottom