- Thread starter
- #701
Mmmmick
Well-Known Member
thanks C5R, it's a smooth smoke in the pipe. Hoping the cure will bump the taste up a little.
Mmmmick 1st Scrog 3 strains 90w LED closet
- Thread starter Mmmmick
- Start date
thanks C5R, it's a smooth smoke in the pipe. Hoping the cure will bump the taste up a little.
- Thread starter
- #702
Mmmmick
Well-Known Member
hi sonzor, good to see you, thank you. I always appreciate your comments.
- Thread starter
- #703
Mmmmick
Well-Known Member
The Lurker
New Member
Nice job, Mmmmick! Congrats and best of luck for your next run. Sorry to see you had to cut early, but what you did get is better than you might have, all things considered. You should have no problems breaking that next go around if you want.
Would love to see your next grow with a 90 degree lens, as you know...
I'm probably going to go the custom route myself when I do order. At $1-1.50/watt including shipping, this becomes very cost effective for most folks, and I have no problems ordering from the same factory everyone else is using anyway - unless I start to see superior results with a homegrown product with truly unique R&D. I think we can do just as well if not better on our own, at this point. The 3W units just don't impress me, also - lower lumens/watt than the 1W, I'll stick with those, thanks.
And if there are any problems with the units, we know exactly who to contact for the proper resolution...
Apart from some IR (which I think is a good idea) and the usual blue/reds, I'd also try to cover the accessory pigments for chlorophyll (Phycoerythrin and Phycocyanin) which peak around 565nm and 620nm respectively, if possible. While ideal, you dont *have* to hit those peaks exactly; 10-15nm to either side of that should be more than sufficient (i.e. efficient enough). There are a few others that (having at least a small portion of) a wide(r) spectrum light would help out with.
While the orange ~610-612nm may be helpful for the latter (and you can cover partly using a 630nm red), I still think using *some* whites to accomplish the same thing is perfectly acceptable, even with some reduced efficiency from the phosphor - if you have space in your board. Check out the graphs for each:
3000K LED (warm white)
6500K LED (cool white)
A few 6000-6500K and 3000K whites would cover those two pretty well, in addition to also adding more blue and red. With mine, I'd keep it under 10%, probably around 8% with my current mockup, half warm and half cool (4% each). Maybe 2-3% for any stragglers (orange or near violet, etc.) I wanted to throw in, and no more. The better CRI from the whites is simply an added benefit, not a primary reason - i.e. a 'nice to have'.
Or, take the whites out of the board and just use some CFLs. In my case, I'd want an all-in-one light, and since I know I'll be using a larger board and not filling it anyway, I'm ok with spending a few extra $ by using LED instead of CFL for that purpose.
That doesn't necessarily mean I wouldn't employ additional CFL (or even CCFL) on the sides/bottom as supplemental, however... (have done that with HPS before and it works rather nicely) I just want a few illuminating from directly overhead as well, and in order to do that, gotta put 'em in the board. K.I.S.S. and all that. Can always add extra lights as and when needed...
So that's probably how I'd design my own board. Hope that's useful info 4 u 2
. I must be getting excited about the mod thing, I'm writing enough about it lol!
Anyway, that's my story, and I'm sticking to it!
Regards,
-TL
Would love to see your next grow with a 90 degree lens, as you know...
I'm probably going to go the custom route myself when I do order. At $1-1.50/watt including shipping, this becomes very cost effective for most folks, and I have no problems ordering from the same factory everyone else is using anyway - unless I start to see superior results with a homegrown product with truly unique R&D. I think we can do just as well if not better on our own, at this point. The 3W units just don't impress me, also - lower lumens/watt than the 1W, I'll stick with those, thanks.
And if there are any problems with the units, we know exactly who to contact for the proper resolution...
Apart from some IR (which I think is a good idea) and the usual blue/reds, I'd also try to cover the accessory pigments for chlorophyll (Phycoerythrin and Phycocyanin) which peak around 565nm and 620nm respectively, if possible. While ideal, you dont *have* to hit those peaks exactly; 10-15nm to either side of that should be more than sufficient (i.e. efficient enough). There are a few others that (having at least a small portion of) a wide(r) spectrum light would help out with.
While the orange ~610-612nm may be helpful for the latter (and you can cover partly using a 630nm red), I still think using *some* whites to accomplish the same thing is perfectly acceptable, even with some reduced efficiency from the phosphor - if you have space in your board. Check out the graphs for each:
3000K LED (warm white)
6500K LED (cool white)
A few 6000-6500K and 3000K whites would cover those two pretty well, in addition to also adding more blue and red. With mine, I'd keep it under 10%, probably around 8% with my current mockup, half warm and half cool (4% each). Maybe 2-3% for any stragglers (orange or near violet, etc.) I wanted to throw in, and no more. The better CRI from the whites is simply an added benefit, not a primary reason - i.e. a 'nice to have'.
Or, take the whites out of the board and just use some CFLs. In my case, I'd want an all-in-one light, and since I know I'll be using a larger board and not filling it anyway, I'm ok with spending a few extra $ by using LED instead of CFL for that purpose.
That doesn't necessarily mean I wouldn't employ additional CFL (or even CCFL) on the sides/bottom as supplemental, however... (have done that with HPS before and it works rather nicely) I just want a few illuminating from directly overhead as well, and in order to do that, gotta put 'em in the board. K.I.S.S. and all that. Can always add extra lights as and when needed...
So that's probably how I'd design my own board. Hope that's useful info 4 u 2
. I must be getting excited about the mod thing, I'm writing enough about it lol!Anyway, that's my story, and I'm sticking to it!
Regards,
-TL
- Thread starter
- #705
Mmmmick
Well-Known Member
Nice job, Mmmmick! Congrats and best of luck for your next run. Sorry to see you had to cut early, but what you did get is better than you might have, all things considered. You should have no problems breaking that next go around if you want.
Would love to see your next grow with a 90 degree lens, as you know...
I'm probably going to go the custom route myself when I do order. At $1-1.50/watt including shipping, this becomes very cost effective for most folks, and I have no problems ordering from the same factory everyone else is using anyway - unless I start to see superior results with a homegrown product with truly unique R&D. I think we can do just as well if not better on our own, at this point. The 3W units just don't impress me, also - lower lumens/watt than the 1W, I'll stick with those, thanks.
And if there are any problems with the units, we know exactly who to contact for the proper resolution...
Apart from some IR (which I think is a good idea) and the usual blue/reds, I'd also try to cover the accessory pigments for chlorophyll (Phycoerythrin and Phycocyanin) which peak around 565nm and 620nm respectively, if possible. While ideal, you dont *have* to hit those peaks exactly; 10-15nm to either side of that should be more than sufficient (i.e. efficient enough). There are a few others that (having at least a small portion of) a wide(r) spectrum light would help out with.
While the orange ~610-612nm may be helpful for the latter (and you can cover partly using a 630nm red), I still think using *some* whites to accomplish the same thing is perfectly acceptable, even with some reduced efficiency from the phosphor - if you have space in your board. Check out the graphs for each:
3000K LED (warm white)
6500K LED (cool white)
A few 6000-6500K and 3000K whites would cover those two pretty well, in addition to also adding more blue and red. With mine, I'd keep it under 10%, probably around 8% with my current mockup, half warm and half cool (4% each). Maybe 2-3% for any stragglers (orange or near violet, etc.) I wanted to throw in, and no more. The better CRI from the whites is simply an added benefit, not a primary reason - i.e. a 'nice to have'.
Or, take the whites out of the board and just use some CFLs. In my case, I'd want an all-in-one light, and since I know I'll be using a larger board and not filling it anyway, I'm ok with spending a few extra $ by using LED instead of CFL for that purpose.
That doesn't necessarily mean I wouldn't employ additional CFL (or even CCFL) on the sides/bottom as supplemental, however... (have done that with HPS before and it works rather nicely) I just want a few illuminating from directly overhead as well, and in order to do that, gotta put 'em in the board. K.I.S.S. and all that. Can always add extra lights as and when needed...
So that's probably how I'd design my own board. Hope that's useful info 4 u 2
Anyway, that's my story, and I'm sticking to it!
Regards,
-TL
Thanks Lurker, always appreciate your comments.
Yes it should be a better run next time around, assuming of course I don't kill them early, lol.
I think the 90 degree lens would provide optimal coverage for a small screen ala mmmmick style, but HGL wanted to see the 60 degree lens demo'd and I agreed to use that model. The 60 seems to restrict the meaty part of the light cone to a smaller area than I like, but the human eye is easily fooled so I'll let the plants determine how the 60 works.
I hope to get the clones under the 126w this weekend but company tonight and it sometimes goes very late. I may be less than productive tomorrow. Coming soon though.
$1-$1.50 a watt would be a great price for a custom unit. I could see going that route. You are doing a great job compiling the wavelenghts our favorite plants would appreciate basking under. Props on the effort you are putting into the scientific side of the wavelengths that would be of use in these custom units. Very much appreciated.
I would forego the cfls if acceptable leds could be found to contribute the wavelengths supplied. Although the abilitity to move cfls to the sides or lower areas of the plants would be of benefit. Have to ponder that one for a while.
Whats your take on the addition of a little UV for parts of the grow cycle?
great post btw, I like the way you handle yourself on this forum.
Scooby_Snacks
New Member
420 Product Development brings you it's first product, The Lurker LED!
I love it. Thanks for the info TL!
I love it. Thanks for the info TL!
Nice job, Mmmmick! Congrats and best of luck for your next run. Sorry to see you had to cut early, but what you did get is better than you might have, all things considered. You should have no problems breaking that next go around if you want.
Would love to see your next grow with a 90 degree lens, as you know...
I'm probably going to go the custom route myself when I do order. At $1-1.50/watt including shipping, this becomes very cost effective for most folks, and I have no problems ordering from the same factory everyone else is using anyway - unless I start to see superior results with a homegrown product with truly unique R&D. I think we can do just as well if not better on our own, at this point. The 3W units just don't impress me, also - lower lumens/watt than the 1W, I'll stick with those, thanks.
And if there are any problems with the units, we know exactly who to contact for the proper resolution...
Apart from some IR (which I think is a good idea) and the usual blue/reds, I'd also try to cover the accessory pigments for chlorophyll (Phycoerythrin and Phycocyanin) which peak around 565nm and 620nm respectively, if possible. While ideal, you dont *have* to hit those peaks exactly; 10-15nm to either side of that should be more than sufficient (i.e. efficient enough). There are a few others that (having at least a small portion of) a wide(r) spectrum light would help out with.
While the orange ~610-612nm may be helpful for the latter (and you can cover partly using a 630nm red), I still think using *some* whites to accomplish the same thing is perfectly acceptable, even with some reduced efficiency from the phosphor - if you have space in your board. Check out the graphs for each:
3000K LED (warm white)
6500K LED (cool white)
A few 6000-6500K and 3000K whites would cover those two pretty well, in addition to also adding more blue and red. With mine, I'd keep it under 10%, probably around 8% with my current mockup, half warm and half cool (4% each). Maybe 2-3% for any stragglers (orange or near violet, etc.) I wanted to throw in, and no more. The better CRI from the whites is simply an added benefit, not a primary reason - i.e. a 'nice to have'.
Or, take the whites out of the board and just use some CFLs. In my case, I'd want an all-in-one light, and since I know I'll be using a larger board and not filling it anyway, I'm ok with spending a few extra $ by using LED instead of CFL for that purpose.
That doesn't necessarily mean I wouldn't employ additional CFL (or even CCFL) on the sides/bottom as supplemental, however... (have done that with HPS before and it works rather nicely) I just want a few illuminating from directly overhead as well, and in order to do that, gotta put 'em in the board. K.I.S.S. and all that. Can always add extra lights as and when needed...
So that's probably how I'd design my own board. Hope that's useful info 4 u 2
Anyway, that's my story, and I'm sticking to it!
Regards,
-TL
aodhan911
New Member
Mmmmick
that's some pretty awesome bud dude...enjoy de fruits of your luving
AODHAN911
that's some pretty awesome bud dude...enjoy de fruits of your luving
AODHAN911- Thread starter
- #708
Mmmmick
Well-Known Member
Mmmmick
that's some pretty awesome bud dude...enjoy de fruits of your luving
Thanks aodhan, I'm trying to let it cure a bit before i get too carried away with it. Company last night so we had to sample some. It went over well with a couple of friends.
I kinda like the Afi a little better tho. I think I'm going for an Afi #1 in my seed order. A friend is going to order with me when the time comes. So far we have Afi#1, Big BUddha Blue Cheese, Ak47 and whatever fourth strain he decides on. Tending toward the WW.
Alright my friend now keep your hands off em and let them cure.
That's the real hard part
That's the real hard part
Grooster
New Member
Heyhey, whats going on!? I finally caught up on the grow here. Took me 3 or 4 days of stoned reading but here I am. I think I missed everything though. Saw some nice harvests there. Well done fo shure. I read in your last post your gonna order some AK47s...very cool, I just happen to be growing that strain meself.
Anyways, it was a great read and I learned a lot along the way as well. Way to help pioneer the newer tech thats out there. I will be sticking with HID for a while yet but I really like what you are doing with LEDs. They are so promising but a bit un-ripe for the less savvy of us. I love the energy savings, temperature, and longevity they offer. Looking forward to your next series of plants. Are your going to post a new journal for the test your doing on the 60deg panel? Keep the knowledge flowing, I will keep absorbing.
L8ER
Anyways, it was a great read and I learned a lot along the way as well. Way to help pioneer the newer tech thats out there. I will be sticking with HID for a while yet but I really like what you are doing with LEDs. They are so promising but a bit un-ripe for the less savvy of us. I love the energy savings, temperature, and longevity they offer. Looking forward to your next series of plants. Are your going to post a new journal for the test your doing on the 60deg panel? Keep the knowledge flowing, I will keep absorbing.
L8ER
- Thread starter
- #711
Mmmmick
Well-Known Member
Alright my friend now keep your hands off em and let them cure.
That's the real hard part
Hi OMM, I'm trying. It's a little easier when there's something in the jar already.
- Thread starter
- #712
Mmmmick
Well-Known Member
hi Grooster, thanks for taking the time to read up on what I'm doing here. I'm improving a bit from grow to grow and hope to do a little better in round 3. Yeah AK47 will be one of the strains altho I think the first AK run will be by my friend. He's planning to do the WW and AK and I'm planning on the Afi and Blue cheese. We'll swap a few clones as well so I should have some AK's going some time in the next couple of grows. Good luck with yours.
I'm happy to hear the journal was of some value to you. I don't think hids are threatened by leds but it's good to have another option for growers in certain circumstances. I just enjoy playing with them to see where they stand and I think they've improved considerably in the last year or so.
Yeah I plan on doing a journal on the 126w grow, actually had hoped to be on the way already but this time of year brings so many other obligations. Every time I get close to a start time something comes up. I should be started before the coming weekend, with a little luck. I hope you find the time to check it out once I'm up and running.
The Lurker
New Member
You're welcome, Mr. Snacks! (for some reason, that makes me smile...I can see you in the office, hard at work at your desk when your admin pipes up over the intercom: 'Mr. Snacks, phone call on line 2!')
I think you're giving me too much credit, bro...this would be a collaborative effort from everyone involved, I certainly wouldn't put my name on it lol!
I'm more interested to hear what folks like you, Mmmmick, irish, and others who have actually used these lights have to say than anything I would. I have the luxury of time to put together what works for me, not everyone's as fortunate. Though I'm starting to get antsy--! I do (did) have a background in some of the sciences, so I try to put some of that to use in the garden when I can.
Thanks Mmmmick, back atcha my friend! I try to add where I can without subtracting from it when I shouldn't, if you know what I mean.. hopefully I've been at least partially successful at that...
Regarding the use of UV, I haven't employed UV lights in the garden specifically myself, so I will defer to those who have in terms of growing. There are a couple of good discussions on their use elsewhere; oldmac's on IC comes to mind. I will probably give it a go myself at some point...
---------------------
In terms of scientific (experimental or empirical) evidence, most of the (sparse) actual research and journal papers I've seen appear to show that UV-A has little to no effect on plant processes. The use of UV-B, however, can degrade THC (some would call it 'ripen', but that's probably not the most accurate term) into its other forms after exposure. UV-B tends to pass through clear trichome heads mostly unabsorbed; cloudy heads, though, absorb those frequencies rather well, speeding up the eventual degradation.
So an early-season flowering plant with UV-B added won't necessarily ripen overnight, but once the trichomes get cloudy, adding UV-B appears to turn many of them amber fairly quickly.
Plants aren't too fond of UV-B, and the chloroplasts in the leaves (which are partially motile) will actually turn from their normal flat profile to a side/edge orientation in order to minimize the surface area exposed to its absorption, in laboratory tests. This has a side effect of thickening the leaves as well, when exposed over time.
----------------
If you've got a long-flowering plant strain that has stopped adding weight but just won't turn, it appears some UV-B might help during the last couple weeks flowering, at least. I'd watch the trichomes pretty closely (1-2x/day) once you do that. A number of Medi users have tried that, saying it helps produce more of your typical medicinal, couchlock buzz - and that the plant can turn pretty quickly, so keep an eye on it. Some have added UV-B the whole cycle and claim it helps; I'd like to see more formalized trials on that.
For keeping the grow room clean, there are a few folks I've seen using UV-C sterilization lamps for ~15-20 seconds 1x/day to eliminate predators (bugs, and mildew, etc.). They claim it works quite well, no pest problems since adding them...
Obviously with UV-B and especially -C, you don't want to be in the garden when they're on - put 'em on a separate switch or timer to avoid skin and eye exposure.
As to whether UV has any effect on THC content either + or - whatsoever, I haven't seen any conclusive results yet, just anecdotal evidence both for, neutral, and against. Until I see multiple assays run on statistically significant sample sizes using clones and testing for % content using both a baseline and on UV-enhanced gardens, the jury's still out for me. I would want to see that done on different strains to determine whether indica or sativa genetics influence any outcome.
-----------------
If you're talking about LEDs, the UV-Bs are very expensive right now, and I probably wouldn't put them in the main board. The best and cheapest sources are the terrarium style flourescent lamps, easy to add to the garden, giving you more options as to when, where, and how you could add them.
Once I have more time, I'll start going through the laundry list of experiments I want to do for myself, too...
Regards,
-TL
- Thread starter
- #714
Mmmmick
Well-Known Member
I've only read (Cervantes Grow Bible, I believe) of one grow where the effects of UV are considered by the grower to be evident. A higher altitude grow of the same strain produced more trichs/resin and less weight than a lower altitude grow. The difference was attributed to the higher UV levels at altitude. This was by no means scientific. There were probably many variables which could have been responsible for the differences in the two crops. I would like to see a more controlled grow done to consider the possibility of benefit from UV exposure.
I've considered the idea of UV in my hot air ducting to help deal with any mold issues but required exposure times/UV level requirements convinced me to substitute better filtration levels as an alternative.
I'm still struggling to keep my plants healthy. I shouldn't be considering any exotic tweaks to
my environment until I've managed a healthy crop. But it certainly doesn't hurt to continue to absorb as much info as possible, in the meantime. Your scientific background will most certainly help us in our travels toward a LED design that covers the wavelengths we need.
UV appears to be of possible use during a brief window. If proven beneficial I would add it as a separate unit when needed but not as an onboard component of the ultimate led design. I've seen some limited discussion concerning the addition of reptile lights as a UV source, but haven't followed those journals to see the final result, for numerous reasons.
Thanks for the info.
MI-grower
Well-Known Member
Great job Mmmmick,
Looks like you got a very decent havest from her. Smoke 1 for me bro... lol
Looks like you got a very decent havest from her. Smoke 1 for me bro... lol
- Thread starter
- #716
Mmmmick
Well-Known Member
Great job Mmmmick,
Looks like you got a very decent havest from her. Smoke 1 for me bro... lol
Thanks MI, she treated me pretty well. I'll smoke a couple for ya, heheh.
Retired Three
New Member
Mmmmick how do you like the scale?
I have been thinking about getting one to weigh my harvests.
ya i was thinking of buy that scale also but the 600w one. any chance a pics with the weight plate forum when u get time? dose it seem to be real accurate?
- Thread starter
- #719
Mmmmick
Well-Known Member
Mmmmick how do you like the scale?
I have been thinking about getting one to weigh my harvests.
Hi JC, it works great but the tray is a little small for piles of bud, anything over 20 g's or so and you must bag it to keep it on the scale. I'd suggest a scale that'll take a bowl to hold bud, this is rated for 100g but it would be awkward to get 100g's to stay on the tray. I guess a light bowl would fit on the tray but a bigger scale would be the best idea. Great for hash tho, or small crops.
I've had it 4 or 5 years and still on the first set of batteries.
- Thread starter
- #720
Mmmmick
Well-Known Member
Hi irish, it's accurate to a 1/10th g. Calibrates and zeros fine.I'd suggest a bigger model than the T2.
Is this what you wanted for pics?
A bic will span the tray side to side, being a stoner I didn't take a pic, lol. Pardon the debris all over it, I was using it just before pic time.