I'm glad you appreciate the info SS. I'm sure you know that everyone, especially me, appreciate all the info you've provided the community. I can't wait to start using CRF's especially after you guys narrow down exactly which ones are the superior recipe for success.
I did notice that this tent was made for a 250w and it's one reason I went with a GLH light w/ similar power. I'm very impressed with your 400w in a DR80. Good job on getting that setup appropriately. I'm rooting for the GLH, which is passing the HID on the last update
I'm even more impressed that the HID girls fit well in there, good job all around. I feel ya on the less hassle with LED. That's the number one reason I went with LED's, didn't want the hassle. This light has been a pleasure to use and producing expected results.
By the way I've been taking a closer look at the outside of light perimeter nugs and they are big, dense, and don't seem to be deterred by the fact that they are in less intensity. This light is providing enough intensity to the entire tent area and I have nugs crawling up the walls. I was considering adding more light to the tent, but I think I will be happy for multiple grows with just the GLH 240. I am still a noobie and getting it all dialed in, so next round should be even closer to perfect results for this light, like 1 g/w production with 4 plants. I have faith that it can easily be done.
One thing I picked up since I want to ensure the best cure was one of those small hygrometers recommended by Irish and I believe you've been using them as well SS.
I'm going to post this for my reference and anyone else that hasn't seen it yet.
This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.
It's a very simple and effective process:
Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.
Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. Then, watch the readings:
+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.
65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.
60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.
55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.
Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:
Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.