Micro Grow PC Box

[CriminalJedi]

To me, a newbie, it looks like a little heat stress aswell, you mentioned you had high temps. I read that when the sides of leaves curl up slightly and get more jagged or teeth on them then it's a sign of heat stress. But I could be wrong. Also the burnt tips makes me think heat stress also.

Anyway, good look with it man and let us know how your doing.

Do you have a 30x jewelers magnifying glass to know when it's at its peak window to Harvest?

I recommend one if not. Just google how to harvest at peak Ripeness.

I'm interested to see what your yield will be, mind if I stick Around?

Also check out my first grow journal if you want

 

[DeanoA7x]

Looking at pics for a p def it looks rather similar. It's just the write up for a P def doesn't sound the same.
I think I'm going to have to cut my losses on this one. She's been on water for about a week now. I dont wanna start feeding again to have to wait another 2 weeks and flush..
Or could it be a P toxicity? When i was feeding I was feeding her 3/4 strength bloom nutes (5-4-9) and full strength on pk 13-14. ( but it says 13% (5.6%p) and 14% (11.6%k) )

Criminal. More than welcome to stick around. More the merrier
I did suffer with heat issues yeh. But most of these problems became worse once I had sorted the heat out.

Anyway here's some pics yday of worst affected bud

 

[DeanoA7x]

0

And some of the colas that are going okay

 

[DeanoA7x]

Or can this be the problem?my roots are popping up through the soil....

 

[Kirupiru]

If I remember correctly leaves curling up is a sing of heat stress. It might be compilation of many things. Who knows. Yellowing and burnt tips might be because nutrient burn or there is too much heat.

Do you have any fans inside what moves the air? There was also this one bud what looked to me little gray. I would check for mold and pests especially inside the bud. It might be just a bad picture.

Did you use anything else than soil in your grow medium? 30% perlite in your medium lets the roots breathe more easily. What was your pot size? It might be root bound but I think they would droop more then.

 

[Faic]

Ok, think I'll weigh in here. One thing I noticed very quickly here at 420. When people talk off the cuff with no details, noone makes much of it. When people post details and ask questions, plenty of people chime in with advice. Journals get lots of reading. I read plenty of other boards, but for real advice, I ask here.

I'm not quite sure how you grew outdoors , but how are you managing your pH? Growing indoors is a lot more work than just checking your garden once a week like outdoors.

Amber pistils aren't an indication of ripeness, that's the trichomes. You'll need a 60x loupe or better to check your girl, seed sellers claims I would always take with a grain of salt unless you grow exactly how they do.

And, you want a minimum of 6x 23w cfl's for approx. 10k lumens, within 4-5 inches of each plant. 2 plants = 12 bulbs min. CFL's, never go by watts, always lumens. Plenty of discussion there as well on watts/heat etc, and the consensus seems that the sweet spot for heat/lumens is the 23w bulbs.


Your fans aren't optimal either. Your outake should be in the top of the case, so it draws the hot air up and out, not down and across your girl. You should also hook both fans as exhaust, and have passive intake at the bottom. Your intake fan could be pushing air out cracks since the filter has substantially lowered your exhaust CFM. Rule of thumb I use is half the rated CFM (which is impossible to attain anyway) if you're going to be using a filter. Subtract even more for using muffin fans. Inline fans as well.

As others have pointed out, your soil would benefit from perlite or some other thing like sand even, to break up the soil more, but looks like you have some pH problems going on, heat stress, and autosarcophagy, the biggest worry is why your sugar leaves are all burned up. I've never seen it that bad before.

With no idea what nutes you're using, and, if properly, but when you say she's on plain water now, and you were only using bloom before.... That doesn't sound right to me, but I use GH flora 3part nutes. That's added all three, every time, in different ratios for your phase. There is no need to flush plants, just dry/cure properly.

If you're chasing 'one deficiency' in soil, you're way behind the curve. Once I switched to General hydro nutes and got my pH under control, I had no more issues, that includes calimagic, hydroguard and silica blast. Hit your pH, make sure she has plenty to eat, and all you have to do is watch temps and watch for pests.

At this stage of the game, just try and keep her healthy and get some buds. But your next indoor grow, you'll need to be properly prepared (like having all your testers and other various kit).

 

[DeanoA7x]

Hey man. Thanks for popping in. I really do appreaciate the input. I'll try and answer you in as much detail as I can. At current I cannot test the ph.asdont have a reader. However i have been waiting about 2 weeks now for one to arrive. (Apparently when i ordered one they all of a sudden went out of stock. Waitin for them to come back in) but I can say I was able to test the ph of my water. (Borrowed a friend's before my grow was up and running) and over the course of the week I had the same average of 6.3-6.7 after sitting for 24hrs. Obv I know nutes can fluctuate the ph. So for that reason I suspect it may be slightly high.
I understand the concept that Amber hairs don't indicate ripeness or readiness. I also know that autos are less prone to ambering pistils. The reason why i refer to them more often is because of the lack of tricomes i have. On the 'bad bud' I have I don't see any crystals forming at all. Its just plant matter. Not bud. And on other buds I have a have very little tricomes forming. But they are there. For now anyway. As for the days it suppose to be a 55-70 day strain. But i was expectig it to go 85 days.. because using cfls and what not.
I do have 6 bulbs in there. Along with ONE plant. I have 3 x 23w and 3x 20w.all 1500lms each give or take. I do have a seedling in there and was hoping to harvest this when seedling was 10 days old then it will have the case to itself. But im not actviely growing 2 plants in there . If you get what I mean...
My fans.. Yeh I cottened on to that. When i set up my case I was high Af And ended up putting my exhaust at the bottom. I kept it like that for a while.. while she was small. Then I cut a whole in the top centre of my case ( directly above lights ) and installed 2 80mm fans both set to exhaust. And my fan down the bottom ( my old exhaust ) 120mm fan I've switched now to my intake. ..
My medium. Well it kinda acts like soil but the packet says coco. Mixed in With air stone to keep the medium from clogging and better drainage. . She's in a 6 l container ( homemade - so hard to find a big enough pot that's also small enough to fit inside a of a pc case.) And nutes i have been feeding are 'hydro coco ' range.
Week 1 water
Week 2 1/4 grow
Week 3 1/2 grow
Week 4 3/4 grow 1/4 bloom
Week 5 80% req dose grow and 1/2 bloom
Week 6 1/2 grow. 3/4 bloom and 1/4 pk
Week 7 1/4 grow 3/4 bloom and 1/2 pk
Week 8 3/4 bloom 3/4 pk
Week 9 1/2 bloom 1/4 on
Week 10 water.
That's what I have followed. This is my own schedule. I couldn't find one for the nutes i have..
Details on nutes are as follows:

1) Hyrdo Coco Grow 200ml

10-5-4
N 10
Ureic nitrogen 7.8
Ammonicial nitrogen 2.2
Phosphorus pentoxide 5
Potassium oxide 4

Also contains plant extract with sugar and amino acids, boron, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum, zinc.

2) Hydro Coco Bloom 200ml

5-4-9
Ureic nitrogen 2.7
Ammonical nitrogen 2.3
Phosphorus pentoxide 4
Potassium oxide 9

Same micronutrients.

3) Hydro Coco PK Boost 200ml

Phosphorus pentoxide 13
Potassium oxide 14

Pests .. my case is pest free. I have very fine material covering both exhaust and intake which makes no diff to air flow what so ever. But keeps the little fuckers out lol.

I hope that some of that has shed some light somewhere !! Lol

 

[VladimirPutin]

about 45 Thousand years ago, people had to use pH strips or drops as digital meters were scarce and expensive, reserved primarily for real laboratory work.
Today, thanks to a tiny country called china and the help of western countries sharing their technological secrets, a super cool new pH meter only costs.. $15
They are accurate to within 0.2
I believe it is a staple if you ever want to grow the big buds.

Vlad

 

[CriminalJedi]

about 45 Thousand years ago, people had to use pH strips or drops as digital meters were scarce and expensive, reserved primarily for real laboratory work.
Today, thanks to a tiny country called china and the help of western countries sharing their technological secrets, a super cool new pH meter only costs.. $15
They are accurate to within 0.2
I believe it is a staple if you ever want to grow the big buds.

Vlad

I don't think they needed one 45 thousand years ago because back then, the earth wasn't dying and the ph was probably perfect already.

Imagine a world with no concrete or metal, just dirt and grass and trees and wildlife everywhere.

free cannabis everywhere, haha

Which reminds me, Google a man who changed his name to FREE CANNABIS. when he went to court over marijuana possession offences, it was listed as her majesty the queen vs free cannabis.

He owns a shop with all items made from hemp, a new friend just told me about him today, just thought I'd mention that before I forget.

Anyway, I hope your ladies turn out ok.

PEACE

 

[Faic]

Ok, so you're in coco, not soil. That is a key thing to never not mention. Your pH needs to be adjusted in the hydro range of 5.6-5.8 and not the soil range of 6.4-6.5. Coco is hydroponic growing. Coco doesn't absorb the nutes like soil does, I believe it's only there as a place to hold the roots. But someone with coco experience can shed more light on that. Coco's also pest resistant, but without a way to water it properly, I'd steer clear of coco next run without more info. Coco also needs much more frequent watering than soil. Like multiple times per day? I've only heard of coco used with flood tables or top/drip systems. The good news is that it's really hard to overwater coco. Yeah your pH is probably too high, and your nutes have done their best to correct your mistakes. Your girl looks great for something I would anticipate showing all sorts of deficiencies at this stage without pictures.

Letting your water sit for 24hrs is to let the chlorine dissipate, it's not to stabalize the pH. And nutes will typically adjust mixes down, not just 'fluxuate'. Knowing how your nutes affect the pH is critical to know, so when your 10$ pH testing pen breaks (because it will) you can still adjust your pH properly. As an example, for 1 gallon, mixing takes the pH to 6.4, perfect for soil. 1 pipette of phDown takes it to 5.8. For res changes (I'm running DWC so I change 3gallon nutrient resivoirs weekly per plant) it's 3 pipettes, or 2mils per gallon, of pH down. I start from 7.4pH whole house filtered water (think RO water, void of any plant nutients). There's also buffered nutrients that have additives that are designed to get your mix at the right pH. I won't use these, since I've read plenty of people trying to get the pH to the right level for thier grow, but the buffers are fubaring it.

As far as nutes go, I'd double check if your nutes should be used all together, or individually as you've been doing. Your plant looks like it's got pH issues (your green growth looks a bit shriveled) while your sugar leaves are either heat burned, or nute burned like nothing I've seen. Hard to say why, but pH/watering is a good ballpark to look into first. I found all the number tossing and npk tossing and tea compost tossing, confusing. An effective easy to use nute system is far more worthwhile for a new grower than the best yielding 'hand mixed' super nute. I will say this. Your feeding schedule seems less than optimal to me for a couple reasons.

First, you're in coco, so the soil isn't going to absorb and hold any nutrients. Second, you're growing an Auto, meaning nutes=weight and is more important than on a photoperiod plant, because it grows on it's own schedule. I feed this way: Germ or clone, first week plain pH'd water. 2nd week 1/2 strength nutes. 3rd week into first pot or hydro, full nutes, fourth week till harvest, heavy nutes for the proper phase. Switching lights just follows the ratio change, I never back off from 1200ppm (ppm is used in hydro as a measure of your nutes, basically 'heavy''. Only time I burned my plants was in the begining of my first grow in soil, and I wasn't measuring the nutes properly at all. Of course, take this with a grain of salt and my nutes are not the same as yours. However, increasing your feeding will give her more of an opportunity to reach her biggest size possible for your container.

Regarding autos. I'm not quite sure what you mean by " The reason why i refer to them more often is because of the lack of tricomes i have. " You want to grow autos because you don't like trichomes? I hope that's a typo. The one thing I've realized with autos is that they're better for experienced growers who know the drill already. Short of stunting through stress, the plant will grow and bloom regardless of what you do. Weak lights won't mean a longer grow period, just smaller yeild. Same reason you can't clone autos. The clone flowers on the same exact schedule as it's mother. Only reason to go auto to me is the simpler growth cycle, which is easier only if you know what to do when. Same with nutes. You can't slow or even stop growth by limiting nutes, you only decrease yield.

Heat stress, or clawing is fairly uniform up or down depending on heat or watering. Your leaf tips are turned sideways, which means stress, which probably is due to pH. For a good picture heavy diagnosis thread, you want to google "Diagnose your deficiencies here - EASY Learning table" . The diagnosis thread here has less than great pictures. And the artwork posters from some ancient book are well. So last century. There's plenty of experts here that can diagnose things from images. Just try and get the clearest pics you can of the issue you're raising.

And regarding venting, you want to loose the intake fan. Unless you know for a fact that your exhaust cfm is quite sufficient to accomodate forced air intake, loose the active intake if you're concerned at all about odor. And if odor was an issue, unless I had 10:1 exhaust to intake, I'd stick with a passive intake. I also saw a interesting DIY filter arrangement by this one guy. He had a screen the size of his cabinet mounted above the lights, covered with AC and the exhaust fan over that. Nice arrangement and the 'filter' didn't cut into his vertical room much at all.

Since you're near the end of the road on this girl, get what you can. For your next grow, you definately want to have things cleared up more. How to properly use the nutes you have, or do you want easier to use ones, and if you're going to stay in coco, you must set up a way to easily water sufficiently. One thing I would do is flush her thoroghly to wash out the built up salts in the coco. You don't need to flush to get rid of chemicals (I say this presuming you're using decent nutes and not some ddt derivitive!), just flush the salts build up regularly (every few weeks, and close to harvest) so you don't get what appear to be deficiencies late in the game.

23w lights are 1500-1600lumens, the 20w lights are around 1000lumens I believe. Your light is basically 'insufficient' by several thousand lumens. In a world where people go anal retentive on turning around three times before they dunk thier homebrew nute tea, it's easy to do the math to make sure your plants are getting the accepted 'proper' amount of light. CFLs measure in total lumens 4-5 inches from the plant. Only start talking watts when you're moving to HPS or LED's because the light is so much more intense than CFL's.

Tossing a 10day old seedling into a flowering box isn't a problem as long as it's an auto. You want to avoid doing that if it's a photo plant, because it will muck with her hormones and she might just grow a pair. The one thing you 'can' do with an auto to manage her growth is change the color temps of the lights. She will grow and flower if you keep the lights at 6000k, but her growth will be tighter than if you did 6000/2700 or grew @2700k the whole time. This is akin to smoking weed lowers your risk for lung cancer. It's minsicule, but it's there.

Hum. It's been so long since Eva was battling root rot I can't recall how dismal she looked. High temps and moisture = bad things. I'd get some silica blast or silica suppliment to help buff up your girls in the future. That and hydroguard I will swear by, since it pulled my first grow from the brink to a 1+oz per plant success. But I woudn't be surprised to find some of that on your girl too. Might explain some of the mutated growth.

Yep. Lots to consider and manage indoors vs outside. Thats the major reason I'm running DWC now instead of soil.

 

[VladimirPutin]

What Faic said.

Coco is a neutral medium, it is designed for inorganic water soluble nutes

Vlad

 

[Faic]

Once your pen arrives, for coco just adjust to 5.8 and feed ,since it retains nothing that would affect pH (coco growers correct me if I'm wrong here). For soil or water, I adjust to the low end (5.6~ and 6.4~) and let the pH creep back up as the plant uses up the nutes.

 

[David Bowman]

Hope all is well in your world.

Is this grow still alive?

We would love to be updated with some pictures and info.

How about posting a 420 Strain Review?

If you need any help with posting photos, please read our Photo Gallery Tutorial.

I am moving this to Abandoned Journals until we get updates.

Sending you lots of love and positive energy.

 

[slayer44]

Screen shot your pics then up load them boss trust me