Michigan MM - Super Lemon Haze - From Seed

[Truth Seeker]

Soooo, Day 50/30 (W7/5).

Today I made a new Light, getting ready for flowering soon. (I want my plants to be about 5ft.)
I need someone to tell/show me how to transplant. I have no effn clue. What do I do with all the dirt. The roots? GUH!

Anyways, today was project day. I built my flowering light im going to use.
It's a 1200W CFL. Filled with x12 100W CFL's - (100W-2700K(x5) 100W-3500K(x5) 100W-6500K(x2))

Hey man, just wondering if you have 100 watt light bulbs or if you are running 26 watt bulbs with the equivalence of 100 watt??? those bulbs look way to small for them to be 100 watt, the 55 watt ones are huge!!! just wondering man???

 

[Jack Dos]

Hey man, just wondering if you have 100 watt light bulbs or if you are running 26 watt bulbs with the equivalence of 100 watt??? those bulbs look way to small for them to be 100 watt, the 55 watt ones are huge!!! just wondering man???

They are 26W CFL's @100W Replacement/Equivalence, yes.

 

[Truth Seeker]

OK cool just checking!!! also are you in veg or in flower, i noticed that you said you made the fixture for the flowering room??

 

[Jack Dos]

OK cool just checking!!! also are you in veg or in flower, i noticed that you said you made the fixture for the flowering room??

-Still in veg. I could induce flowering but the flowers are way too small at this stage. I want them to be about 24in.

They say tipple the size, but I think thats about 10in, in overstatement. Very rough estimate. But, then again. How the hell would I know, yah?

So, im going for a rough 24in. That way they should be, 5-6ft?. But, im only inducing one to flower. The other two are going to be mothers.. But will go into motherhood at 24in as well..

 

[Optimus PrimeBud]

Hey bro you're doing a good job for your first grow I think we all stubble a bit our first time mine were about your size at a month mainly due to bad soil (NEVER USE MIRICLE GROW) and I never checked my Ph, but thanks to help format he fine people on the site my grow turned around and made it to harvest!.

I would suggest if at possible to try and get some FoxFarm Ocean Forest soil and pick up form Grow Big and Tiger Bloom nuts that will really help out your grow. Also god job on the LST I was nervous my first time thinking id snap the stem but they are strong plants. You can probe bend your plants down a lot more then you have it wont hurt them. Anyway I'll be stopping by time to time to see how things are going. If you ever have issues with your plants or need help, feel free to contact me and I'll asset in any way I can.

 

[Jack Dos]

Hey bro you're doing a good job for your first grow I think we all stubble a bit our first time mine were about your size at a month mainly due to bad soil (NEVER USE MIRICLE GROW) and I never checked my Ph, but thanks to help format he fine people on the site my grow turned around and made it to harvest!.

I would suggest if at possible to try and get some FoxFarm Ocean Forest soil and pick up form Grow Big and Tiger Bloom nuts that will really help out your grow. Also god job on the LST I was nervous my first time thinking id snap the stem but they are strong plants. You can probe bend your plants down a lot more then you have it wont hurt them. Anyway I'll be stopping by time to time to see how things are going. If you ever have issues with your plants or need help, feel free to contact me and I'll asset in any way I can.

I did an inert about MG. How there are two kinds. (The second is by scott brand actually.) Nonetheless, i try and stay as natural as I can. Nothing synthetic, nothing man made. I have a lot of beneficial bacteria, the guy at the garden store suggested bat guano, but I dont know many bats that just sh¡t on or around cannabis flowers lol.

So im still skeptical, but im sure ill talk myself into something.

Thank you for the LST comment, i didnt even know what LST was, then I googled it. I just wanted them to all be the same size, and just was like, 'hey trees grow around or on fences, im sure this does too.' - sure enough lol.

Ill keep updating as much as I can, more on video now than anything, so we can all look back at it, and see mistakes ect..

Thank you again and Look forward to more comments =D

 

[Truth Seeker]

you should have more 6500K's in there!!! remember Blue spectrum (6500K) for the veg stage!!! and the orange and red spectrum (2700K) for the flowers!!!

oh and also yes, they do about double their size, I got my WW going into flowering at about 14 in. tall and she got to 26in. in the matter of a week!!!

 

[Jack Dos]

I thought the offset I had with 6 out of 12 at 50% of 6500K was enough, you think I should add more?

 

[Truth Seeker]

for veg you should really only concentrate on having the blue!!! when you go to flower, 1 6500K to every 2 2700K, the blue is still needed for the leaves to stay green!!!

 

[Jack Dos]

wow. ok. so now i need to know the ratio to 1200K CFL. for veg and flower.

so x12=1 : 1 :1 for the *3spectrum. to 12 lights veg
and x12=1 :1 :1 for the *3spectrum to 12 lights for flower

pretty please =D

 

[Jack Dos]

for veg you should really only concentrate on having the blue!!! when you go to flower, 1 6500K to every 2 2700K, the blue is still needed for the leaves to stay green!!!

UPDATED TO MORE 6500K LIKE REQUESTED!
LOOK AT WHAT THIS GIRL DID, WITH JUST ADDING MORE BLUE.. LOOK CLOSELY AND LET THE TEMPERATURE BE YOUR GUIDE, OR JUST LET IT GO TO THE END AND LOOP BACK, AND THAT WILL GIVE YOU THE ANSWER FASTER.

GO CFL! GO a420!!

*(PS; I STILL WANT TO KNOW THE RATIO TO LIGHTS FOR CFL 3 SPECTRUM x1200W)*

 

[Jack Dos]

What I did today:
Watered with "tha mix'' and sprayed top with reg. water.
Took some x40 micro-picks of trichomes.
Read about trichomes and thc,v, ect..

Posting it all for you to see/reference!

HERES MY TRICHOMES;

Sorry so small, But these figures above try to denote capitate-stalked trichomes with green arrows, the bulbous trichomes with yellow arrows & the red arrows mark the capitate-sessile trichomes. Cyan arrows denote cystolith hairs.

Sorry so small again, But these figures above try to denote pistols coming off the main stem, showing signs of a female if there are no white or hardened spots protruding from the main stem between the pistols and the stem itself. Which the red arrow shows there is just stem no white means no signs of seed growth, so should be female.

Although cannabis resin glands called trichomes are structurally diverse, they come in three basic varieties:

Bulbous:
The bulbous type is the smallest (15-30 micron). From one to four cells make up the "foot" and "stalk," and one to four cells make up the "head" of the gland. Head cells secrete a resin - presumably cannabinoids, and related compounds which accumulate between the head cells and the cuticle. When the gland matures, a nipple-like protrusion may form on the membrane from the pressure of the accumulating resin. The bulbous glands are found scattered about the surfaces of the above-ground plant parts.

Capitate-Sessile:
The second type of gland is much larger & is more numerous than the bulbous glands. They are called capitate, which means having a globular-shaped head. On immature plants, the heads lie flush, appearing not to have a stalk and are called capitate sessile. They actually have a stalk that is one cell high, although it may not be visible beneath the globular head. The head is composed of usually eight, but up to 16 cells, that form a convex rosette. These cells secrete cannabinoids, and related compounds which accumulate between the rosette and it's outer membrane. This gives it a spherical shape. The gland measures from 25 to 100 micron across.

Capitate-Stalked:
Cannabinoids are most abundant in the capitate-stalked gland which consists of a tier of secretory disc cells subtending a large non-cellular secretory cavity. During flowering the capitate glands that appear on the newly formed plant parts take on a third form. Some of the glands are raised to a height of 150 to 500 micron when their stalks elongate. These capitate-stalked glands appear during flowering and form their densest cover on the female flower bracts. They are also highly concentrated on the small leaves that accompany the flowers. The male flowers have stalked glands on the sepals, but they are smaller and less concentrated than on the female bracts. Male flowers form a row of very large capitate glands along the opposite sides of anthers.


When to harvest your trichomes
There are several schools of thought as to when it is the time to harvest. I shall attempt to explain how you can determine the harvesting time that will produce the most favorable psychoactive effect for your individual preferences.

We are most concerned with the capitate-stalked trichomes, as these contain the overwhelming majority of the psychoactive cannabinoids (THC, THCV, CBN). Different cannabinoids affect the high in a multifaceted manner.

THC:
delta-9-tetrahydrocannabinol & delta-8-tetrahydrocannabinol - THC mimics the action of anandamide, a neurotransmitter produced naturally in the body, which binds with the cannabinoid receptors in the brain to produce the ?high? associated with marijuana. THC possesses high UV-B (280-315 nm) absorption properties.

THCV:
tetrahydrocannabivarin - prevalent in certain South African and Southeast Asian strains of cannabis. It is said to produce a ?clearer high? & seems to possess many of the therapeutic properties of THC.

CBD:
cannabidiol - previously believed to be psychoactive, or to contribute to the high by interacting with other cannabinoids, conversely the most recent research indicates that CBD has negligible effect on the high, it is however a strong anti-inflammatory, and may take the edge off some THC effects, such as anxiety. CBD as a non-psychoactive cannabinoid appears to be helpful for many medical conditions. CBD biosynthesizes into cannabinol (CBN) & tetrahydrocannabinol (THC).

CBN:
cannabinol - a degradation product of THC, produces a depressant effect, ?fuzzy? forehead.

CBC:
cannabichromene - non-psychoactive , a precursor to THC.

CBG:
cannabigerol - non-psychoactive, hemp strains often posses elevated levels of CBG while possessing only trace amounts of THC.

Heavy trichome production is not necessarily an indication of a potent plant. Some hemp strains have moderate layers of trichomes yet pack only a strong headache. In a drug strain, a thick layer of trichomes is a symbol that it may well posses an elevated potency level, but it is certainly not a guarantee.

What defines a cannabis drug strain is the plant's ability to produce THC & THCV.

A small 25x or stronger pocket microscope, which can be picked up inexpensively at an electronics store like Radio Shack, works well for getting a closer peek at your trichome development. We are examining are the capitate stalked glandular trichomes, the coloration of these gland heads can vary between strains and maturity. Most strains start with clear or slightly amber heads which gradually become cloudy or opaque when THC levels have peaked and are beginning to degrade. Regardless of the initial color of the secretory cavity, with careful observation you should be able to see a change in coloration as maturity levels off.

Some cultivators wait for about half of the secretory cavities to go opaque before harvesting, to ensure maximum THC levels in the finished product. Of course nothing tells the truth more than your own perception, so try samples at various stages to see what is best for you & the phenotype your are growing. While you may be increasing the total THC level in the bud by allowing half of the glands to go opaque, the bud will also have a larger percentage of THC breakdown products such as CBN, which is why some people choose to harvest earlier while most of the secretory cavities are still clear.

Indica varieties will usually have a 10-15 day harvest window to work with. Sativas and Indica/Sativa hybrids often have an extended period to work with.

Hope this helps everyone help me =D

 

[Truth Seeker]

whats good alt!!!
Hey man glad to see that you got those 6500K in there!!! your ladies will much appreciate them!!! Now the only problem I can see here from the videos backtracking and watching the live feed is that your temps are to high!!! your ladies will not grow taller if there is to much heat or at least you won't yield max!!! you want to shoot for a temp of 72-75F with lights on 80 will be pushing it, and 85F is just to much!!! what kind of exhaust do you have going? I know you have the air coming in from outside but do you have anything that is pushing the air back out?? air circulation!!! very important to keep temps down!!!

Now for your ration question! as far as I know for Veg you want to give as much Blue spectrum as you can. When you grow with HPS, more than likely you will use a MH for the Veg, that's because the MH give out a hell of a lot of Blue spectrum!!! and then when you switch to flower, you would use a HPS because it has very little blue spectrum and has all kinds of Red and Orange spectrum!!!
as a personal experience, I had used nothing but 6500K for the white widow grow for the veg, and then when I switched over I put all 2700K then I was told to put in some 6500K cus it is still vital for the plant to stay green. Even right now I have all 6500K x 8 bulbs, now when i go to flower, I am going to have 6 2700K and 2 6500K in my setup!!! still thinking about putting in a stake light with another 6500K in it at flower, for all the lower branches but because I will be doing LST, I wont know til I see the bushes that the ladies have!!!
I hope this clears things up for you!!! but lets get them temps down first now!!! maybe try adding a couple of frozen bottles of water in 2 litter bottles, set them in there in front of the fan so the fan can blow cool air around!!! just make sure you watch the RH!!!

 

[Truth Seeker]

also about your picture, can really see any calyx yet, when you see them you will know, they shoot out 2 and only 2 little tiny pistols that form a V shape coming out of it!!! they will be really really tiny at first but after a week you can see them clearly without a magnifier!!! here is my Afgoo, when she said hey look under my skirt!!! LOL

see the V

 

[bozzo420]

I see you have bought liquid ladybug, great stuff. spray each week befor you get mites .
lots cheeper if you buy 5 gal at a time $200. at $35 a quart ,thats $700. for 5 gal.once you have mites......you have them.I used live ladybugs and liquid.....don't want to wait till you get spiderwebs. Starts with small spots on leaves. no matter what, spots on leaves not good thing.i'm also from mich, hi bro

 

[Les Doodess]

Bump for update

 

[Jack Dos]

Sorry everyone been out on "vacation" hanging with Jalen Rose. Just got home last night... sooooo... its going to be about 36 hours and everything should be updated. You will all be amazed, and hopefully I have to never go back to that vacation spot again.. me and Jalen. Stay Positive.. -out.

 

[Jack Dos]

Ok,

Day 71/51/15

I finally figured out how to share, so the plant's radio station is up, click the link in my sig. We added a couple of UV lenses on the camera so the picture is more clear. I wanted to have sound, so you didnt have to have the radio separate but, the ftp server wont allow it, dumb.

Anyways,
I over watered one plant. You can see it got struck my Iron. Little day sprays shall clean the soil a little as well as high heat so the amount of water is drying up well.

Almost done with the germination / mother sections. Should be done tonight or tomorrow

Let me know what you think since ive been gone, how things are coming back into focus. Thank you all, god bless.

 

[Jack Dos]

So, over watering 2 days ago occurred. This has left flower #5 one of the strongest ones I had, wilting and has spots on the leaves from shock.

Possible Causes;
Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather. - In my case its been the cold weather we've been having. (I believe)

Also, it could be due to;
Magnesium

Magnesium is a component of the chlorophyll molecule and serves as a cofactor in most enzymes.

Magnesium (Mg) deficiency.

Magnesium deficiency will exhibit a yellowing (which may turn brown) and interveinal chlorosis beginning in the older leaves. The older leaves will be the first to develop interveinal chlorosis. Starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins. Notice how the veins remain somewhat green though as can be seen in figure 15.

Notice how in Figure 16 and 17 the leaves curl upwards like they're praying? They're praying for Mg! The tips may also twist.

This can be quickly resolved by watering with 1 tablespoon Epsom salts/gallon of water. Until you can correct nutrient lockout, try foliar feeding. That way the plants get all the nitrogen and Mg they need. The plants can be foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water). When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil.

If the starting water is above 200 ppm, that is pretty hard water, that will lock out mg with all of the calcium in the water. Either add a 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of epsom salts or lime (both will effectively reduce the lockout or invest into a reverse osmosis water filter. -Although I don't believe this is my problem because my older leaves are doing well its the new'er leaves, so...

I think it might be this;
Sulphur (S)

Sulfate is involved in protein synthesis and is part of the amino acids, cystine and thiamine, which are the building blocks of proteins. It is active in the structure and metabolism in the plant. It is essential for respiration and the synthesis and breakdown of fatty acids.

Sulphur (S) deficiency

The initial symptoms are the yellowing of the entire leaf including veins usually starting with the younger leaves. Leaf tips may yellow and curl downward. Sulfur deficiencies are light green fruit or younger leaves with a lack of succulence. Elongated roots and woody stem. Although it's hard to see in figure 19, the upper stems of this plant are purple. Although many varieties of cannabis do get purplish stems, the trait generally extends the entire length of the plant's stem, and not just near the top as in this specimen.

Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients. - As to where my new leaves are effected, and doing exactly what it says they are doing, curling, turning yellow/brown, then falling off.

Comments, Suggestions, Please =D

I may have to go on 'vacation' again for another 6 days... we'll see.. hopefully not. But hopefully this girl pulls through, and comes back.

 

[Truth Seeker]

looks like a major nute burn or a pH problem