Method 420-s1ing gets waxy

Not sure man, but I'm living vicariously throughout your experimentation. Too bad those guys at extr@ctionEksperts don't pony up and become site sponsors. Though by the time they'd get in here, we'll have our very own resident extraction expert, aka s1ingblade.

s1ing, is your setup a closed loop/reclaim system?

Not yet, thanks for the kind words

Don't worry about picking up any chlorophyll. I do my soaks for 10 to 20 mins. I even did an overnight soak once. Plant material / chlorophyll is a very polar substance, and water is the most polar of all solvents, so water is the biggest culprit in pulling chlorophyll. Butane is a very non-polar solvent, so it has little effect on the plant material. But the thc heads are very non-polar and are easily melted in the butane. Alcohol as a solvent is pretty much middle of the road in world of polar and non-polar, therefore it is always recommended to freeze the material prior to alcohol extraction because it will pull chlorophyll out of the plant material. Hope this helps.
If you want I could share my method of soak, extract, and cleaning of the oil.
Yes please! feel free to post away
Good explanation Wattsaver.

No Doubt!

Thanks for the time and effort watt
 
Wax on, Wax off...
 
This was a tutorial I posted a yr back on a site that doesn't exist anymore.

Clean Butane Extract Without Heat or Purge

I’m a person who will exchange time for labor, but won’t accept inferior product.
I have in my possession a few blasting utensils, and a good purge pump, which hasn’t run except for science projects for my grandson for the past yr.

There is no instant gratification with my method; it will take a full 2wks to finish a run maybe more if your ambient humidity is high.

First I never exceed 90 degrees in the process my goal is not to exceed 80 but I’m sure I run past this occasionally. This leaves more of the flavor trepenes and many other low temp trepenes.

Second I’ve switched from blasting to the thermos method, you get equal if not larger yields with less butane, and IMO is much safer. With the thermos method you are just filling a stationary container on a solid surface, not trying to control a frozen tube and a can of butane over a target pan. And a 2oz run in a jar takes no more time than a 1oz run. I have some ½ gal jars which would do a ¼ lb but haven’t tried it yet.

Third Winterizing; You can read about the benefits in several threads. And with re-melting of the oil with alcohol it will release any remnants of the butane. I personally believe that re-melting is just as good if not better than purging. I do take it an extra step and melt it twice; the second (last) will be winterized.

I start with 2oz of broken up bud in a 1 qt wide mouth jar. Place in freezer with butane overnight, It takes just a little more than 3 cans of butane.
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GO OUTSIDE, I like to do my runs at first light when it’s cool to cold outside. Butane boils at 33 degrees, if it’s pressurized the temp goes up. The whole idea is to soak in liquid butane. If it’s warm out I fill and soak with the jar in a pan of ice water. These photos were taken last fall temp was 30 F when I started. There are 2 holes in the lid, one for butane in and the other to vent. Fill with the hole near the rim it is more solid there. Place the jar on a solid surface and fill jar one can after the other till the fluid level is a ¼” above the bud. DO NOT TAPE OVER THE HOLES - LEAVE UNBLOCKED and let it vent
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I’ve let the jar set from 20 seconds to overnight, results have varied, but from an hr on you pick up more waxes. I’ve settled on 20min, not sure if this is the optimum time but it seems the best to me. (Gives me time to have breakfast) I now change the lid to one I’ve punched a bunch of holes in it.
**Note: punch holes from the inside of the lid.** I put a coffee filter between the lid and the jar, do not stretch the coffee filter tight it will break during draining. I press down on the filter to get it to slack at least ¼” down before tightening down the lid. Now you can shake hard during draining to get as much as possible out of the jar.
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Insulate your hands from the jar with gloves or a towel. Drain into pre-frozen pyrex pan. I wrap the pan with saran wrap to keep moisture out and freeze for at least 30min. If the pan is cold there is far less splatter, this is true when blasting also.
I then cover the pan with a kitchen towel and let is set outside for ½ a day or more depending upon the outside temp. No heat is added, I pop all the bubbles with a pen, if you dip the pen in ISO first it will not pick up much oil.
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I’ll take the pan inside now and add just enough Everclear to melt the oil down, it only take 3 or 4 shots. This pan I’ll cover in the kitchen towel again and put in a cupboard for 5 to 7 days. The alcohol will now be evaporated. Next I’ll add everclear again and re-melt it, I’ll pour this into a glass and cover it with saran wrap and place in the freezer overnight. You’ll notice the cloud of wax that has formed in the glass; this is strained through a coffee filter back into the Pyrex pan, covered and let sit for another wk. I never believed in winterizing bh o until I tried it, I promise you’ll see the difference. I’ve seen better results winterizing with everclear at 95% than with 99% ISO. I always use everclear now, for one thing everclear is food grade plus I think the extra water helps with pulling the waxes out of solution.(no science there, just my observations & opinion)
You can see the wax in the filter, the flash distorted the color to the white you see.
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Scrape it up. I end up with a very stiff, fairly easy to handle, fully translucent, bubble free, and very tasty amber oil


So if you’re willing to put in the time, you can eliminate adding heat and purging. And end up with a better product IMO. It just takes a large serving of patience.
 
I'll try my best to place the pics in proper order.
YEsterday I finally got a chance to blast the new closed column pressurized extractor. It's a 150 Gram model and I know I used less than 120 grams. Final outcome was 21.6 grams and it took three and a half 300 ML bottles of ultra pure butane.
It's a real trip blasting this way as Im used to a lot of butane coming out from the very beginning. I was told to inject a half a bottle aprrox. 150 mls and close the bottom valve, than finish putting as much butane in as possible, wait a minute and VERY SLOWLY (or else) open the bottom valve and I was unaware that the oil would come out before the butane. I am almost positive I could close the valve once the tane starts coming out. The oil was like a yellow foam and once the liquid fuel start roaring out it went from yellow to clear very quickly. Next time I will try stopping it a few secs after liquid flows and then put it into the vacuum chamber. YOu must close the top valve before you switch to another can or when your done.
OK heres the pics
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https://www.420magazine.com/gallery/data/

PLEASE anyone attempting to copy what I am doing spend the researching the topic and how dangerous it can be. You can blow up your house, your face and your family if you don't observe some basic common sense practices like NEVER INDOOR, NO SMOKING, DOnt F with a lighter in your pocket, IN FACT NO LIGHTERS IN YOUR POCKETS. It's not funny its actually scary and a bit sad knowing that every single day some uneducated fool blows his $hit up because he didn't spend a couple hours researching the right way to do it.
Anyone and everyone is welcome to PM me if they have a question re: if there setup is safe. I am not sure Ill know but I will be honest and tell you if I would do it that way.
OK hope you enjoyed the pics
Have a smoking weekend ya'll
 
Sick setup and sick results s1ing. I'd dab a shard of dat. :goodjob:

I've stayed with solventless hash-making for the most part, though I reclaimed some oil with iso a few times. However, I've a good friend that does quality blasting, and he's proof to me there should be no underestimating the value of really good equipment and the knowledge to use it properly. Doing so makes a better product and does it safer. He's got a couple tubes and a nice vac chamber and is finally starting to hit his stride with some very fine quality as well. Even so, he's constantly on the hunt for better, more efficient, cleaner methods. Lol, he gets so geeked whenever he's got a new piece of gear to put into the rotation and every one he adds has increased the quality in clarity and flavor.

Keep up the good work man. :bravo:
 
Sick setup and sick results s1ing. I'd dab a shard of dat. :goodjob:

I've stayed with solventless hash-making for the most part, though I reclaimed some oil with iso a few times. However, I've a good friend that does quality blasting, and he's proof to me there should be no underestimating the value of really good equipment and the knowledge to use it properly. Doing so makes a better product and does it safer. He's got a couple tubes and a nice vac chamber and is finally starting to hit his stride with some very fine quality as well. Even so, he's constantly on the hunt for better, more efficient, cleaner methods. Lol, he gets so geeked whenever he's got a new piece of gear to put into the rotation and every one he adds has increased the quality in clarity and flavor.

Keep up the good work man. :bravo:

I haven't tried ISO or Qwiso but I've seen it done. I've got some utilsens that are caked from my bubble bag runs and I'd love to wash them and turn it into something but not sure if it works that way, I think it does but not sure.

I am looking into CO2 as I am curious if it works as well as they say it does re: CBDs
Anyone blast with CO2 yet? I know some do with Liquid Propane but I'd a$$ume (hate doing that lol) co2 would be cleaner tasting?
I'd like to be able to take a tank to the welding shop and have them refill it as needed instead of buying bottles of butane. Nothing like having 20 bottles of tane (empty of course) in the trash for others to see
 
Hey sl1ng buddy

Why won't you review your trimmer wand publicly? I'm curious as I was looking at that same product.

I'd love to try some of your wax man. It looks great. I still have my concerns about chemical residues that are hard to let go. Ice water just seems so much more benign. :blalol:

I can't really do this outside at my place. My backyard is only fenced with chain link. There aren't any good places for me to do this stuff outside. I'll just live vicariously through you in the meantime. Thanks :)
 
Hey s1ing,

Just going through your last update with the closed chamber extraction. I don't remember if you explained before, but could you tell me your experience on transferring your muffin from the Teflon to the parchment paper. Any tips to minimize loss?
 
Hey sl1ng buddy

Why won't you review your trimmer wand publicly? I'm curious as I was looking at that same product.

I'd love to try some of your wax man. It looks great. I still have my concerns about chemical residues that are hard to let go. Ice water just seems so much more benign. :blalol:

I can't really do this outside at my place. My backyard is only fenced with chain link. There aren't any good places for me to do this stuff outside. I'll just live vicariously through you in the meantime. Thanks :)

Sorry guys I kinda forgot.
The trimmer works great and does save time once you get the hang of it but for me it chops up the trim so much it releases something probably chlorophyl and makes my BHO greenish.
Other than that and having to take apart once an hour to clean out some of the build-up its a good trimmer.
For a grower who doesn't make extracts I can honestly say it will do you right, if your into working with the trim and a green product isn't acceptable don't get one.
If anyone wants to know more please don't hesitate to Private Message me
thanks HIKER
Hey s1ing,

Just going through your last update with the closed chamber extraction. I don't remember if you explained before, but could you tell me your experience on transferring your muffin from the Teflon to the parchment paper. Any tips to minimize loss?
I tried using another piece of the "PTFE" teflon paper to flip it back and forth and even some of the "no Goo" type non stick pads but both didn;t please me a bit. I use the teflon paper to blast into and I will also leave the oil in the paper and put it straight out of the heat bath and into my 5 gallon vacuum chamber but at about an hour in the chamber I will use a piece of parchment paper and place it right on top of the patty, then I flip the patty inside of both pieces of paper and flip it over. The first flip always seems to be the hardest , I use one hand to slowly pull one corner of the paper and the I then use my index finger on the other hand to kind of put pressure and go from one edge to the other until it falls off or releases.
Sorry I can't think of better terms right now, too much BS on my mind.
If that doesn't help PM and Ill try harder to explain.
 
for me the hardest part of the run was the first flip, getting the super sticky BHO off of the "PTFE" teflon paper and onto parchment isn't the easiest of things. It seems like the smaller or thiner patties are harder, its like gravity helps a little bit when the patty is thicker/heavier.
I am looking into blasting with CO2, any ideas?
 
A 10%+ yield is really good and totally dependent upon strain once you've got your system down...and it appears you do. My buddy is looking into CO2 as well. CO2 extraction with bubble bags has WAY too much plant matter in it for my liking, but a CO2 blast tube system is intriguing.
 
A 10%+ yield is really good and totally dependent upon strain once you've got your system down...and it appears you do. My buddy is looking into CO2 as well. CO2 extraction with bubble bags has WAY too much plant matter in it for my liking, but a CO2 blast tube system is intriguing.

Im not finding much info on blasting w/co2 but I did hear some chatter about not being able to create clear shatter type extractions??
Any feedback would be greatly appreciated
 
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