Mars-Hydro LED Grow Light Discussion

Haha, Mike, it's not strange only different. :circle-of-love:
not sure to understand what you are trying to say ..... what i have to say is ... when you start a grow area, you want the max light output for that area ... not going that way is not very wise i think (at least in my strange head and logic lol)
 
5X reflector 144X5 will be amazing light for that area! 4X maybe not bad too.

2X mars2 1600W will be good. 8X mars2 400W will be better.



Thank you for responding sara! What would you think for a 4ft x 9ft x7ft tall tent cause my buddy and i are going to buy that size and planned on putting 2 144 x 5w but seeing that wouldnt be enough for the 5x5 i wanted what would be good for the 4x9?
 
:popcorn: :smokin:

Better abit more overrange for light than under, and dont have to upgrade in case of.

Use 1000w led(mars2+reflector) for 2x3 feet area(4 plants) and isnt too mush, the girls :adore: it.

Was advised to go with the mars2 400w but changed mind :),and didn't regret took the 700w instead. :surf:

Temperature stays good, humidity bit high but ventitalion helps alot. :grinjoint:

Cola's becoming 0.5L beers and getting more dense. :Namaste:
SAM_6647.JPG
 
:Namaste: haha, you are welcome. To cover 4'x9', you'd better to take 2pcs MarsII1600w, which will cover 10'x5' at the height of 2'. 2pcs 144x5w will cover 6.6'x4.4' at the height of 2'. :circle-of-love:
Thank you for responding sara! What would you think for a 4ft x 9ft x7ft tall tent cause my buddy and i are going to buy that size and planned on putting 2 144 x 5w but seeing that wouldnt be enough for the 5x5 i wanted what would be good for the 4x9?
 
I :adore: the girls... They are so hot lying upon the pole.:circle-of-love:
:popcorn: :smokin:

Better abit more overrange for light than under, and dont have to upgrade in case of.

Use 1000w led(mars2+reflector) for 2x3 feet area(4 plants) and isnt too mush, the girls :adore: it.

Was advised to go with the mars2 400w but changed mind :),and didn't regret took the 700w instead. :surf:

Temperature stays good, humidity bit high but ventitalion helps alot. :grinjoint:

Cola's becoming 0.5L beers and getting more dense. :Namaste:
SAM_6647.JPG
 
:)thank:hugs:you, I will put it down.:high-five:
please test it on many spots .... not only in the middle just under the panel ... minimum 1 foot each side and more please (and even more wide for bigger ones)
 
with all the money you are making with use mars hydro ,...... im sure you can buy a spectroradiometer instead of a quantum meter (spectro are very more precise but very more expensive)

pfffff ...... lol
 
nice buds ganjaz!! very nice!

Thanks, grow is going better than expected, :rollit:

Can only hope will continue this way and with next grow. :goodluck:

I find harvest timing not that easy to be determined, 2weeks ago cut 1st part but obvious way too fast.

Saw few amber trichs on sugar leaves and it was last week flower normally, now extended with 1-2weeks, could be the cause of many times defol.
(also stopped too early with nutes through that)

Another lesson learned, :)

And realy need a very good microscope to check trichs,
 
you dont need a micro .... just wait for 66% of the "hairs" or pistils to become dark .... minimum 50%

it is not perfect, but reliable for most of strains
 
you dont need a micro .... just wait for 66% of the "hairs" or pistils to become dark .... minimum 50%

it is not perfect, but reliable for most of strains

yeah, i know, but pistols looked couple weeks back over 50% dark and than buds start swelling and still do(i think)

Want to harvest at highest THC, and more CBN, therefore good microscope for accuracy.

Couple days earlier - later can make difference maybe.

Looks like halfclear/cloudy to me or more cloudy? and few amber, cant get sharper image.
Closeup grapefruit(same plant previous photo)
SAM_65962.JPG
 
Don't go to all that effort, spend all that money and not invest in a $15 dollar 50x microscope, if you're going to be growing a few times it should be part of the standard kit.
If you're after the CBD then it helps heaps more because hairs are usually already turned but trichomes could still be milky not amber.
 
me i have Blueberry, MNice Shit, OG kush and Northern lights .... all are very good to go by the hairs ... the microscope i bought was only to confirm that going with hairs is really not bad. since i dont use it anymore.
 
ganjazz I got my loupe off of Cramazon for about $5... It took it a while to get here but it came from China and works great.... From your pics you look to be still a bit clear and going to cloudy but I don't think you are quite there either.... I do think under these LEDs the breeder info is a bit short and usually takes a week or 2 longer than they suggest... at least to get to 30% amber... I like couch lock...:blushsmile: I do know some folks that go by the swelling of the calyxes and when the pistols turn down and brown in color... but it is not as telling as the loupe and ambers.... I love my M-H 's and I'm a real person...:yahoo:....:circle-of-love:
 
:cheertwo: Here is our PAR test machine.:cheertwo: do you guys have any suggestions... how do you want us to test it... :)
Par_.jpg

Hey Sara,

I would like to make a suggestion for how you do your PAR readings. These are some of the better layouts that I have come across.

I would suggest making a 4'x4' grid and doing readings every 6" out from the center of the light, 2' each way for a total spread of 4'x4'. I would suggest for each light making a 4'x4' grid for different heights, most common I see are 12", 18", 24", 30" and 36".

See this photo... (these charts are from growers house, and only posted for a reference to sara of a good layout format.
SolarStormTestInfographicReviewFootprint.jpg



Another really nice feature to add to the charts I have only seen done by Osram but it really helps give a visual of the output at different intensities. I would suggest having areas shaded in different colors like red, orange, yellow, green...etc... each color represents a intensity... for instance the area shaded red would be >1500uMol/m2/s-1, Orange would be >1000uMol/m2/s-1, Yellow would be 500uMol/m2/s-1 and green would be 250uMol.

You also could label them in a color index like this.

For Cannabis and sun loving plants
RED= Peak Photosynthesis Saturation Point (>1500uMol/m2/s-1)
Orange= Optimal Flowering Intensity with added CO2 (>1000uMol/m2/s-1)
Yellow= Optimal Flowering Intensity without added CO2 (>500uMol/m2/s-1)
Green= Optimal VEG intensity for >=18hr daylight schedule (>250uMol/m2/s-1)

Osram did a nice job with their chart on this aspect, but the number layout is a bit confusing which is why I though the first photo has a better 4'x4' chart. (Again, photo is posted only as a suggestion for Sara, and in no way meant to be an advertisement, as I have no affiliation with any of these companies) :)
upload_2015-8-4_14-39-26.png



Anyhow, I hope this helps give you an idea of what would make a good layout. By doing it this way, not only are growers able to correctly chose their LED lights for their grow area, but also based on light schedule and also plant species. It also will give a very accurate plot of the actual footprint which is ideal, at multiple heights eliminating the questions of "how high should I hang it" or "what size do I need for my grow area".

Awesome Li-Cor!!! I'm just slightly jealous ;)
 
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