Mars Hydro 5-Gallon DWC Hydroponic System - Continuous Feed?

[Zeefarmer]

How to use nutrients and fertilizers to grow marijuana plants

Nutrients and fertilizers are key for growing cannabis indoors and outdoors. Learn best practices for using them from the experts at Leafly.

www.leafly.com

This was 20+ years ago I was growing hydro and that’s all we used was one bottle for veg and another for bloom. I have not a clue as to what it was called but that was the only thing we even had access to where I lived at the time.

We also had NO idea what we were doing and flew by the seat of our pants, in lore way than one!!!

I enjoy good weed ........ where I live I am forced into growing inside.
I am pushed for space and need to make the most out my grow space . two 4x8 tents and a 4x5 walk in closet. about 86 square feet.
I enjoy growing weed, it is a hobby too.
My DIY hydroponic system and nutrients seem to have slight changes every grow . (Fine tunning )
I am learning more and more and by doing this I am able to buy the right nutrients by bulk or buy another brand.

Above all I want my grow to produce good or decent weed, I want to secede first .

Enjoy the weed you grow.

 

[Ke0ncp]

How to use nutrients and fertilizers to grow marijuana plants

Nutrients and fertilizers are key for growing cannabis indoors and outdoors. Learn best practices for using them from the experts at Leafly.

www.leafly.com

I enjoy good weed ........ where I live I am forced into growing inside.
I am pushed for space and need to make the most out my grow space . two 4x8 tents and a 4x5 walk in closet. about 86 square feet.
I enjoy growing weed, it is a hobby too.
My DIY hydroponic system and nutrients seem to have slight changes every grow . (Fine tunning )
I am learning more and more and by doing this I am able to buy the right nutrients by bulk or buy another brand.

Above all I want my grow to produce good or decent weed, I want to secede first .

Enjoy the weed you grow.

Couldn’t have said it better myself!

I really enjoy growing, even though I don’t smoke that much. I give LOTS of weed away LOL but I enjoy it.

I am most certainly sure that I will mess up during this process, then I will come here and ask questions and figure it out for how it works for me. That’s what’s great about this site is there are some many growers with a ton of experience and willingness to lend their advice

 

[Ke0ncp]

Well hopefully an inline filter will get me below 300.

 

[Ke0ncp]

Actually it settled a bit and 300 shouldn’t be a problem.

 

[Zeefarmer]

My RO water is under 50 PPMs when I get done adding nutrients its about 800 to 900 PPM's which is a little high .
I am using about 50% of what dosage is recommended on the bottle.
300 PPM's is not allot but it will effect the PH and the amount PH up and down you use.

 

[Sativa1970]

Zeefarmer, Have you checked those numbers with a separate EC meter? I had a meter on the truncheon PPM scale that doubled its numbers. Would explain your readings. RO should be 25 displays 50. 1/2 strength should be 350 displays 700. That meter had me running circles till I figured it out. Plant was happily flowering at 3300 PPM AKA 2.35 EC.

KeOncp, .Your water report was on the hanna PPM scale. .62 on that scale is just over 300PPM. Carbon filter will pull the 60 PPM of chlorine right off the top. A basic, single, 5 micron filter should get you below 200PPM or .4 EC. Starting water of .4 + 2.4 of nutrient= 2.8. That leaves .2EC or 100 PPM of wiggle room. That is your target because the res should not go over 3EC because that is maximum saturation.

Visualize your water as a plate. 3EC is the max size of the plate. Starting water EC is what is already on the "clean" plate, taking up space, before adding the meal. Some of the micro minerals already on our new plate are like the vitamins and seasoning we need to add so a good base. Some of it could be like that sprig of parsley. Taking up space with no real nutritional value. Now we add our micros from the recipe, vitamins and seasonings. If our plate started with a bunch of salt and we add more salt it will mess up the ratio some. If we knew our plate had salt we just don't add as much. Then we add our macros. Meat, fruit, veg, and carbs. If your plate is full before you finish getting all of the macros they will just fall off the plate. You will see this as a white powder buildup in the res. If nutrients are falling off/out you won't have a balanced meal. First sign of not having a balanced diet is the PH will shift. A bigger serving of micros results in less room for macros. What minerals you are starting with, in the water, matters just as much, if not more, than how much you start with. Knowing what is already in the water allows you to adjust what you add.

500 scale is Hanna(USA), 640 scale is eutech(EU) and 700 scale is Truncheon(ASIA). There is also another scale from Asia that I don't remember the name of. Truncheon converted to eutech X 2. The reason PPMs were not allowed in school or any green houses, miscommunication.

 

[Ke0ncp]

Zeefarmer, Have you checked those numbers with a separate EC meter? I had a meter on the truncheon PPM scale that doubled its numbers. Would explain your readings. RO should be 25 displays 50. 1/2 strength should be 350 displays 700. That meter had me running circles till I figured it out. Plant was happily flowering at 3300 PPM AKA 2.35 EC.

KeOncp, .Your water report was on the hanna PPM scale. .62 on that scale is just over 300PPM. Carbon filter will pull the 60 PPM of chlorine right off the top. A basic, single, 5 micron filter should get you below 200PPM or .4 EC. Starting water of .4 + 2.4 of nutrient= 2.8. That leaves .2EC or 100 PPM of wiggle room. That is your target because the res should not go over 3EC because that is maximum saturation.

Visualize your water as a plate. 3EC is the max size of the plate. Starting water EC is what is already on the "clean" plate, taking up space, before adding the meal. Some of the micro minerals already on our new plate are like the vitamins and seasoning we need to add so a good base. Some of it could be like that sprig of parsley. Taking up space with no real nutritional value. Now we add our micros from the recipe, vitamins and seasonings. If our plate started with a bunch of salt and we add more salt it will mess up the ratio some. If we knew our plate had salt we just don't add as much. Then we add our macros. Meat, fruit, veg, and carbs. If your plate is full before you finish getting all of the macros they will just fall off the plate. You will see this as a white powder buildup in the res. If nutrients are falling off/out you won't have a balanced meal. First sign of not having a balanced diet is the PH will shift. A bigger serving of micros results in less room for macros. What minerals you are starting with, in the water, matters just as much, if not more, than how much you start with. Knowing what is already in the water allows you to adjust what you add.

500 scale is Hanna(USA), 640 scale is eutech(EU) and 700 scale is Truncheon(ASIA). There is also another scale from Asia that I don't remember the name of. Truncheon converted to eutech X 2. The reason PPMs were not allowed in school or any green houses, miscommunication.

Great info!! And looks like I should be good to go with my tap water through the filter

I need to start playing with my nute calculator to figure out how to raise PPM. I don’t think it has a PPM target in there with a starting PPM value, but I am not sure. More to come on that!

Thanks again for the info @Sativa1970

 

[LKABudMan]

Great info!! And looks like I should be good to go with my tap water through the filter

I need to start playing with my nute calculator to figure out how to raise PPM. I don’t think it has a PPM target in there with a starting PPM value, but I am not sure. More to come on that!

Thanks again for the info @Sativa1970

I'm not sure what nute calculator you're using, but mine (hydr0buddy) allows you to enter your water profile and it adds it to your finished targets

 

[Ke0ncp]

I'm not sure what nute calculator you're using, but mine (hydr0buddy) allows you to enter your water profile and it adds it to your finished targets

Same I just haven’t used it in this way so will need to sit down and focus on that here soon.

Quick update on the res totes, I melted the holes today, whoever recommended that THANK YOU!!

Still not the cleanest of jobs, but no cracked tops or odd cuts will get in there with a file and some sandpaper and clean it up a bit so there isn’t as many spots for nasties to grow

10.5” holes

 

[Zeefarmer]

Zeefarmer, Have you checked those numbers with a separate EC meter? I had a meter on the truncheon PPM scale that doubled its numbers. Would explain your readings. RO should be 25 displays 50. 1/2 strength should be 350 displays 700. That meter had me running circles till I figured it out. Plant was happily flowering at 3300 PPM AKA 2.35 EC.

KeOncp, .Your water report was on the hanna PPM scale. .62 on that scale is just over 300PPM. Carbon filter will pull the 60 PPM of chlorine right off the top. A basic, single, 5 micron filter should get you below 200PPM or .4 EC. Starting water of .4 + 2.4 of nutrient= 2.8. That leaves .2EC or 100 PPM of wiggle room. That is your target because the res should not go over 3EC because that is maximum saturation.

Visualize your water as a plate. 3EC is the max size of the plate. Starting water EC is what is already on the "clean" plate, taking up space, before adding the meal. Some of the micro minerals already on our new plate are like the vitamins and seasoning we need to add so a good base. Some of it could be like that sprig of parsley. Taking up space with no real nutritional value. Now we add our micros from the recipe, vitamins and seasonings. If our plate started with a bunch of salt and we add more salt it will mess up the ratio some. If we knew our plate had salt we just don't add as much. Then we add our macros. Meat, fruit, veg, and carbs. If your plate is full before you finish getting all of the macros they will just fall off the plate. You will see this as a white powder buildup in the res. If nutrients are falling off/out you won't have a balanced meal. First sign of not having a balanced diet is the PH will shift. A bigger serving of micros results in less room for macros. What minerals you are starting with, in the water, matters just as much, if not more, than how much you start with. Knowing what is already in the water allows you to adjust what you add.

500 scale is Hanna(USA), 640 scale is eutech(EU) and 700 scale is Truncheon(ASIA). There is also another scale from Asia that I don't remember the name of. Truncheon converted to eutech X 2. The reason PPMs were not allowed in school or any green houses, miscommunication.

The Blue lab PPM meter will not light up if the PPM's are under 100.
BLue Lab ppm meter ,the light flashing normally is the low scale , If the light on the meter flashes fast its on the high scale .

 

[Zeefarmer]

Same I just haven’t used it in this way so will need to sit down and focus on that here soon.

Quick update on the res totes, I melted the holes today, whoever recommended that THANK YOU!!

Still not the cleanest of jobs, but no cracked tops or odd cuts will get in there with a file and some sandpaper and clean it up a bit so there isn’t as many spots for nasties to grow

10.5” holes

Thats a mistake, how are you to access the pump?
HOW ARE YOU GOING KEEPS THE ROOTS OUT of the PUMP ? the plant in the middle of the tote .
You want the pump as far away from the roots as possible .
IF you get any kind root rot how are going get the roots clean if cannot touch them . and at that time the pump is clogged with dead roots?

The plan is to have healthy plants right up to when you have some kind issue like the power going out or the A/C unit or a chiller failing? and you need access to the inside of the tote.

The big baskets the plant will continuously want to fall over without trellis netting and the tote is to small as in how much water it holds and no access..

 

[Zeefarmer]

Amazon.com

Amazon.com

I have these on all my pumps and I change.and clean these filters allot.
Even heathy roots there is some parts of them coming off and will clog up any sprayers.

 

[Sativa1970]

The reason I recommended the 10 in opening. This is a 2 foot plant being transferred.

I use a 4 x 4 PVC frame. My issue isn't holding the plant up, rather holding it in. I add jute cord if I need to keep the plants separated since they are always at different stages of flower. Same plant after some stretch.

I don't use pump irrigation any more but I do keep a pump in the res. Only time it kicks on is when I am draining the water. I have a 12 inch bar aeration stone between the roots and the pump. The current stops the roots from crossing into the pump end and feeds extra air to res. Have run 6 res in nonstop perpetual grow this way for over 7 years. Roots have never grown into the pump. Never used any root products like hydro guard, not one case of root rot. Did get root rot once, before adding the extra air stones and res got hot.

 

[Zeefarmer]

The reason I recommended the 10 in opening. This is a 2 foot plant being transferred.

I use a 4 x 4 PVC frame. My issue isn't holding the plant up, rather holding it in. I add jute cord if I need to keep the plants separated since they are always at different stages of flower. Same plant after some stretch.

I don't use pump irrigation any more but I do keep a pump in the res. Only time it kicks on is when I am draining the water. I have a 12 inch bar aeration stone between the roots and the pump. The current stops the roots from crossing into the pump end and feeds extra air to res. Have run 6 res in nonstop perpetual grow this way for over 7 years. Roots have never grown into the pump. Never used any root products like hydro guard, not one case of root rot. Did get root rot once, before adding the extra air stones and res got hot.

It's straight from the cloner to the 20 gallon tote's at that time the plants are going into one of two 4x8 tents where they will finish veg and flowering ..
I haven't ever had issue getting the roots through a 3inch hole ..

 

[Zeefarmer]

I use a large air stone and a pump... if one fails then the other is still keeping healthy.
The roots love a 100% RH, I had a aeroponic system the roots/plant grow vey fast with a couple sprayers.
But sprayers are prone to plug up.

 

[Ke0ncp]

Thats a mistake, how are you to access the pump?
HOW ARE YOU GOING KEEPS THE ROOTS OUT of the PUMP ?

I’m not using a pump, if you look at the original product I purchased it explain a little more. It’s an air pump that feeds the res back to the top of the system, I might change that ring out to a blumat ring to help with and clogging

I use a 4 x 4 PVC frame.

This is a good idea thanks!