Maggie: A Pot For Pot Grow Kit, Mars Hydro TSW2000 LED, Approximately 6x6’ Greenhouse In My Room, Zkittlez, Green Crack, Northern Lights, 2021

Krissi1982 said:
Found you!

Maggie, household humidity may be too low for your young seedlings, they prefer up to 70% now and down to around 45% during flower. I would definitely grab a humidifier until you get set up or at least a hydrometer to see where you're at. Do you have any kind of grow light at home to use where you could stick her in a closet, perhaps?
Nutrients...huge role! Please check out @Prescription Blend, they are very easy to use with soil and have amazing results although I have heard good things on your choice.

Spacing lights and temperature controls. See what kinds of vents you are working with inline system, exhaust. Seedlings like 24-30 inches generally from an LED. I use @Mars Hydro also in there FC4800 unit. I'm sure they would love to welcome you here and chime in!

Please lmk how I can further help you get set up, now knowing you are a fellow grower and in a tent (soon) with Mars Hydro, we have a lot to talk about! Good luck and glad I found your journal, now you just need to link it to your signature so everyone can see it, too!

Edit...just saw they were 5 weeks old already! Do you have pics?
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I’ll be posting some today.
 
Maggiep409 said:
I haven’t got an RH meter or anything. I just started looking into them. Do you have one? Would you recommend it?
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For years and years I worried about pH, RH, VPD, CO2 and so many other things, and I accumulated meters for measuring pH, PPM and others... so I essentially worried all the time.

Then I went organic, and gave all of these worries over to the microbes to deal with. Now using Geoflora, I never measure pH, or PPM and the only measurement I make is when scooping out 2/3 of a cup of geoflora to dump on the top of the soil. Growing pot is not supposed to be hard... it is a weed. Geoflora finally made this easy... any basic soil will work, and tap water will work just fine without removing chlorine or treating it in any way. Don't stress... you got this.
 
Emilya said:
For years and years I worried about pH, RH, VPD, CO2 and so many other things, and I accumulated meters for measuring pH, PPM and others... so I essentially worried all the time.

Then I went organic, and gave all of these worries over to the microbes to deal with. Now using Geoflora, I never measure pH, or PPM and the only measurement I make is when scooping out 2/3 of a cup of geoflora to dump on the top of the soil. Growing pot is not supposed to be hard... it is a weed. Geoflora finally made this easy... any basic soil will work, and tap water will work just fine without removing chlorine or treating it in any way. Don't stress... you got this.
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Hi @Emilya, so if I'm hearing you correctly, the Geoflora in soil works with the microbes which makes the pH of tap water a moot issue? I'm not using Geoflora in my grow but MC and it seems that balancing my pH was necessary as my tap water was too alkaline.
 
@Bill284 @Renaissance Man @Krissi1982 @Carcass @Emilya @Tokin Roll 1st (smallest boy) is Green Crack. 2nd is Zkittlez (biggest boy). 3rd is Northern Lights. They’re all quite small for their age, considering I haven’t had them under consistent light, but I think they can bounce back once I get my light and nutrients.
 
Maggiep409 said:
I haven’t got an RH meter or anything. I just started looking into them. Do you have one? Would you recommend it?
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Eventually you will need one.
I was just curious as you mentioned a humidifier.
If you don't know your rh you don't know if you need a humidifier.
A dome or plastic bag will work fine at first.
Just didn't want you wasting money.

Stay safe
Bill
 
Maggiep409 said:
@Bill284 @Renaissance Man @Krissi1982 @Carcass @Emilya @Tokin Roll 1st (smallest boy) is Green Crack. 2nd is Zkittlez (biggest boy). 3rd is Northern Lights. They’re all quite small for their age, considering I haven’t had them under consistent light, but I think they can bounce back once I get my light and nutrients.
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O.M.G. they are adorable for 5 weeks! Yes definitely behind because of the homing and light situation but they seem pretty healthy regardless. How long again? Saturday?
 
Renaissance Man said:
Hi @Emilya, so if I'm hearing you correctly, the Geoflora in soil works with the microbes which makes the pH of tap water a moot issue? I'm not using Geoflora in my grow but MC and it seems that balancing my pH was necessary as my tap water was too alkaline.
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MC does not use salt chelation so it does not have the same pH requirements as traditional salt based synthetic nutrients and the range that it is readily available is in the wide range of 9pH - 4 pH. As far as nutrient bioavailability goes, if you are anywhere in that range, you probably don't "have to" pH adjust. Some have found a slightly better uptake when getting the pH near the internal pH of the plant, or 6.1 pH, but my experiments showed that this was not necessary in order to use MC.

Geoflora enjoys roughly the same wide pH range, basically not base enough to cause alkaline burning and not acid enough to cause acidic decomposition, because it all has to do with the microbes... and as long as they are not damaged by the pH, they keep right on working, breaking down the raw nutrients into forms the plant can use, and then carrying those nutrients to the plants roots.

The other worry with tap water is the chlorine. Normally in an organic grow, you want to help preserve the life of the microbes, so using chlorinated water is frowned upon. Although it takes swimming pool like concentrations of chlorine to actively kill off the microbes and fungi, the smaller amounts in our tap water can over time start to kill off the microbe population. This is why a supersoil grow, relying on the microbes that came in with the soil, is very much influenced negatively by tap water... because with regular watering, by mid flower the microbes will be so low in number the plants are no longer getting the nutrients they need. Geoflora solved this problem however, by bringing in a fresh set of microbes with each 2 week feeding. This easily keeps up with the little bit of damage the tap water is able to do, and you again have all the microbes you need to process the nutrients into plant food.
 
Krissi1982 said:
O.M.G. they are adorable for 5 weeks! Yes definitely behind because of the homing and light situation but they seem pretty healthy regardless. How long again? Saturday?
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They’ll be 5 weeks tomorrow.
 
Maggiep409 said:
Or did you mean how long until the light gets here? It was estimated to arrive Friday.
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I meant when does the set up and everything arrive...I noticed they were 5 weeks. If you want a gage, mine are also 5 weeks...with the exception of that larger auto w buds and the smaller one in the middle was stunted for 2 weeks so she is technically only showing 3 weeks of maturity...you really need to get set up soon! Don't want you to lose them to the environment after taking care of them at this stage for so long which some consider the hardest stage!

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Krissi1982 said:
I meant when does the set up and everything arrive...I noticed they were 5 weeks. If you want a gage, mine are also 5 weeks...with the exception of that larger auto w buds on the left. And the smaller one in the middle was stunted for 2 weeks so she is technically only showing 3 weeks of maturity...you really need to get set up soon!
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Oof. Mine are doing horrible. I don’t know when the fan, RH controller or timer will arrive yet. If I have to, I’ll restart. :(
 
Maggiep409 said:
Oof. Mine are doing horrible. I don’t know when the fan, RH controller or timer will arrive yet. If I have to, I’ll restart. :(
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Listen, you don't have to start over! They are actually healthy but just not where they should be! Once you get set up they will take off cause whatever you have going on with them is keeping their head up! Don't be worrysome of their overall health-these are extremely resilient plants and to have kept them alive for this long under those conditions at this age is something to be very proud of! Just need to get going before they start going south on you. I am certain once you get setup they will be just fine, just be weeks behind which you would already be if you started over.
Edit..I had changed the pic to a closer shot for you
 
Krissi1982 said:
Listen, you don't have to start over! They are actually healthy but just not where they should be! Once you get set up they will take off cause whatever you have going on with them is keeping their head up! Don't be worrysome of their overall health-these are extremely resilient plants and to have kept them alive for this long under those conditions at this age is something to be very proud of! Just need to get going before they start going south on you. I am certain once you get setup they will be just fine, just be weeks behind which you would already be if you started over.
Edit..I had changed the pic to a closer shot for you
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If I were weeks behind, would that lower their yield , even once I have it all set up?
 
Maggiep409 said:
If I were weeks behind, would that lower their yield , even once I have it all set up?
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Not if you just increase the amount of time you keep them. Gage them for their size like say yours are week 1 so you add on another month to your grow time. My one that was stunted I am not going by her actual age when I flip her but how old she is developmentally
 
Krissi1982 said:
Not if you just increase the amount of time you keep them. Gage them for their size like say yours are week 1 so you add on another month to your grow time. My one that was stunted I am not going by her actual age when I flip her but how old she is developmentally
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But these are auto's, so they could begin to flower at any time, right?
 
Its not a race with photoperiod plants... I have some going now that vegged for over 100 days, and now that I am finally letting them bloom, they are monsters. When you have troubles in veg that you are able to correct, all you have lost is a little time, yield will always be that which you create by training and then vegging them for an extended period of time.

But if they are autos, a simple mistake in the beginning to slow down the plants, can cut yield significantly. This is just one of the many reasons that I don't run autos.
 
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