Lost In The Fog

Just finished the rest of the brass bases for the cooling blocks. Moving on to the acrylic discs this weekend. Not sure yet which type of connection to use for the water pipes/hose. The thing I would like to do is thread for 3/8 water fittings and use mini ball valves to adjust the water flow of each block to get even flow over them all. Got hold of the threading tap to do it but I think I have tried this once with acrylic and it cracks easy so this will be the hardest part of the build. I could just glue fittings in plastic but that's plan B.

Going to polish them up to glow in the dark. :) I'm in love with brass from now on. So fun to work with. Understand now why the old timers loved it too.
:rollit:

brassleds.jpg

brassleds.jpg


Made four of them so I have one extra just in case. Maybe using that for my new 80w 4000K puck.
 
I'm looking forward to you getting this finished because I have no idea how you water cool these :). No need to explain as your pictures will do it for you!
 
Make sure you get the center holes drilled they are more important thermodynamically :) most of the heat is going to want to move toward the center. they run a lot hotter than I expected TBH like I would definitely do some water cooled solutions on above 90W per puck
 
you going to bend a copper tube and weld to the back brass? it would be your most solid way, then ferrule compression swagelock fittings to the end and run hose coupled swage ferrule to your rad.
 
straight union copper tube compression on one side with a tube adapter from the hose that has a straight ferrule rib to lock the other side union nut.

that was hard. lol
your hose weight will need to be supported because they will drag your lights off balance tho :)

like this, based off one of the semiconductor tools I used to build. just dont be a dummy like this guy and torque the nut without holding the holding nut and ruin your welds :D
heatsink.jpg

if this is too much though 120mm fans on regular syncs will do the job hehe
 
I hope I will get a more manageable heat with this. The center holes will not be used. Going to make a ring of 10mm acrylic that's 160mm in diameter and fit it over the backside of the brass plate and fit another acrylic disc on top of the other to seal the gap in the ring of the other disc... hmmm

sketched this up don't know if makes more sense than my writing. Still got it in my head and making adjustments as I go along...

paint.jpg

paint.jpg

 
Purpsmagurps said:
if this is too much though 120mm fans on regular syncs will do the job hehe
Click to expand...
:laugh:

Though I'm sure it's not gonna slow Crazy the Dumpster Diver down.
 
I follow a bunch of custom pc modders that do acrylic heatsink work. they all order through a shop that will machine the acryllic for you I will check it out and see if I can find the link again. this isnt DIY friendly shit in any case lol.
 
the thing is tho. gotta find an O ring first that will work then build the acrylic around it. dont go an odd size on the acrylic and have to order custom o rings I dont think thats possible for us lol.
 
It's a mean to occupy my brain some. The costs running away emailed a chines workshop that made blocks in aluminium but not round. They ran at almost 70$ apiece and no means of screwing the led to it. So I'm going to try this approach. There are no pressures to talk about so with the right sealant it's going to work. We glue plastic pipes at work that takes up to 10 bar with just super glue.
 
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