Look at this beauty! I'm looking for some tips :) I'm very anxious

[newfarmeragain]

Hi everyone, can you give me some tips for this stage? It looks like I'm transitioning from a seedling to the vegetative stage. Should I trim anything, or do any topping or fimming, or should I just relax and wait? If you could provide tips for the future, I would really appreciate it. I'll send a photo. This baby is a photoperiod Gelato in the last days of the 4th week. I'm very grateful! I could only get to this point with your help.


A short summary

Germinated in coco with perlite and transplanted to peat with perlite.
I plan to use rooter in the first 6 weeks.
In a 5-gallon pot, I water with 1.5L to 2L when dry, carefully monitoring pH 6.0, EC, and ppm (EC and ppm depend on the week).

After the first 6 weeks, I'll start using a tea made of Bokashi with molasses and algae, with a bit of GH fertilizer and Cal-Mag only if needed. Before that, I'm using a solution with a little bit of nutrients.
The light is now around 385-400 PPFD.

 

[Azimuth]

Looks good!

For training, I'm partial to Quadlining, link in my signature. It's a way to improve yield especially indoors.

 

[Bill284]

Hi everyone, can you give me some tips for this stage? It looks like I'm transitioning from a seedling to the vegetative stage. Should I trim anything, or do any topping or fimming, or should I just relax and wait? If you could provide tips for the future, I would really appreciate it. I'll send a photo. This baby is a photoperiod Gelato in the last days of the 4th week. I'm very grateful! I could only get to this point with your help.


A short summary

Germinated in coco with perlite and transplanted to peat with perlite.
I plan to use rooter in the first 6 weeks.
In a 5-gallon pot, I water with 1.5L to 2L when dry, carefully monitoring pH 6.0, EC, and ppm (EC and ppm depend on the week).

After the first 6 weeks, I'll start using a tea made of Bokashi with molasses and algae, with a bit of GH fertilizer and Cal-Mag only if needed. Before that, I'm using a solution with a little bit of nutrients.
The light is now around 385-400 PPFD.

Beautiful lady my friend.
Just a little info on coco.
It requires you put calmag in your feed water first from now on.
Coco drains if from your girls.
Also coco requires being fed every day to run off full strength nutrients at 5.8 ph.
No plain water ever and never let your coco dry at all.
Follow these simple instructions and your lady will be healthy and strong.
Bokashi is great for the microbes and feeding your roots.
No nutrients though.
I run coco/bokashi/frass in all my grows if you want to take a look.




Stay safe
Bill284

 

[SmokingWings]

Germinated in coco with perlite and transplanted to peat with perlite.

Is there any compost or top soil or garden dirt?

Or, is it all coco, peat moss, and perlite? If so, then I am thinking that you will have to be giving it some fertilizers. I do not grow in coco or peat based soils but from what I have read the plants will need to be fed several times a week or even every day for best growth.

...a solution with a little bit of nutrients.

Might not be enough and it could start showing in the next couple of weeks. It will definitely show big time shortly after flowering starts.

...and Cal-Mag only if needed.

By the time the leaves start to show that the Calcium-Magnesium is needed it will already be too late. Plan on using a Cal-Mag product weekly or bi-weekly as shown on the products label whether the plant shows it needs it or not. Pretty hard to fix Cal-Mag issues once the deficiency shows on the leaves. Been there myself and learned that the hard way.

 

[newfarmeragain]

Quadlining done but I'm considering removing the 3rd node too.

Do today's photos indicate an excess of nitrogen or a nutrient lockout? I watered with 850 ppm and 1700 EC.

 

[bluter]

she's hungry. either not feeding every day, not feeding enough when you do, or not at the correct ec.

don't let that coco dry out. it's best fed thin and often. a lot of coco growers feed multiple times per day. it's an indica - they are fatties and like the yum yum yum.

 

[Azimuth]

Quadlining done but I'm considering removing the 3rd node too.

Quading is topping above node four and removing nodes one and two. Looks like you still have node 2 attached?

 

[newfarmeragain]

Quading is topping above node four and removing nodes one and two. Looks like you still have node 2 attached?

I let it grow a bit more and did the topping above the fifth node. The first and second nodes have already been removed, so this is the third node I mentioned earlier. Let's call it 'queenlining' or 'quinlining'. LOL

 

[newfarmeragain]

The leaves are starting to yellow and burn at the tips, especially the two bottom ones, but the new small leaves seem fine. Do you have any specific tips for this situation, apart from spacing out the feedings? I don't want to lose it, it's already emitting a very nice fragrance, and I've grown attached to it. Besides ensuring proper fertilization, what are the next steps I should take?

I don't have much knowledge in this type of cultivation and I'm a bit lost. I didn't cut at the fourth node because the fifth node already showed it would have 5-fingered leaves, and I thought this would help with photosynthesis. I would like to learn how to grow them well like you do. I am very grateful for your help and will keep trying.

 

[bluter]

you can go back in and feed that one as per normal

 

[SmokingWings]

he leaves are starting to yellow and burn at the tips, especially the two bottom ones, but the new small leaves seem fine. Do you have any specific tips for this situation, apart from spacing out the feedings?

If you want the help best for the plant and the soil it is growing in you have to help us know what you have in the pots.

Is there any compost or top soil or garden dirt in that mix? Or, is it all coco, peat moss, and perlite?

Do today's photos indicate an excess of nitrogen or a nutrient lockout?

The yellowing looks like a serious lack of Nitrogen and possibly not enough Potassium for starters.

The leaves are starting to yellow and burn at the tips, especially the two bottom ones, but the new small leaves seem fine.

It is spreading into all the leaves. The browning is not fertilizer burn. It is that part of the leaf already being dead and what is called the "necrotic plant tissue" beginning to show.

 

[newfarmeragain]

If you want the help best for the plant and the soil it is growing in you have to help us know what you have in the pots.
Is there any compost or top soil or garden dirt in that mix? Or, is it all coco, peat moss, and perlite?

Only perlite and peat, and I also added a cup of bokashi.

The coco was just the cup where it germinated and stayed during the seedling phase. During the transplant, I placed this coco in the middle of the peat with perlite.

The yellowing looks like a serious lack of Nitrogen and possibly not enough Potassium for starters.

I thought I had added too much nitrogen and that there was a lack of phosphorus or magnesium. I'm completely lost.

It is spreading into all the leaves. The browning is not fertilizer burn. It is that part of the leaf already being dead and what is called the "necrotic plant tissue" beginning to show.

She's wilting is she going to die?

 

[Roy Growin]

You just need a balanced nutrient
Bokashi does nothing without organic fodder such as frass
Canna coco is the most simple of all imo
Camg, nutes, pH - simple

 

[SmokingWings]

Only perlite and peat, and I also added a cup of bokashi.

The coco was just the cup where it germinated and stayed during the seedling phase. During the transplant, I placed this coco in the middle of the peat with perlite.

Based on that info I suggest that you grow it like it is a hydroponic style set-up. It may look like a soil mix that contains composted material but there is none. It will take years for the peat moss to decompose and the coco coir takes 5 or more years.

You will have to read up on the basics of hydro styles of growing. But you will have to find and start using a decent fertilizer. There are hydro fertilizers and there are some fertilizers that can be used in hydro or in a dirt/compost soil mix. Maybe some will make recommendations.

Think about using something that is a one or two part fertilizer because those are pretty easy to use.

 

[013]

One can buy a huge bale of peat moss on the cheap, however peat is only 1 component of a true soil mix… at a minimum regular peat (CSPM) needs mulch, rock dust and dolomite to set the ph

for your next run I’d suggest buying a good soil mix and avoid the do it yourself route until you gain more experience and have a few jars of buds stockpiled.

another option would be coco & perlite but you have to feed often and adjust ph each time as well.

Anyways stick with us and we will get you sorted…

 

[SmokingWings]

One can buy a huge bale of peat moss on the cheap, however peat is only 1 component of a true soil mix… at a minimum regular peat (CSPM) needs mulch, rock dust and dolomite to set the ph

It seems that the mix is peat moss and Perlite. The only coco is a cups worth that was used for germination and seedling stages before it was placed in the peat mix. I am a big fan of using peat as an ingredient for a potting mix. When it comes to using it as primary or even the only grow medium the story changes.

I started thinking about the good and bad points of peat moss and as how the peat relates to the issue with @newfarmeragain's plant.

The coco was just the cup where it germinated and stayed during the seedling phase. During the transplant, I placed this coco in the middle of the peat with perlite.

If I am understanding it your soil is primarily peat moss, maybe even as much as 75% but maybe more. The amount of coco is next to nothing.

Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss is extremely acidic and just about every nutrient except Iron is being locked out by low pH values. I am thinking that you will have to make a quick decision on whether you want to go with a compost/dirt based soil mix or a coco coir or other hydroponic soil amendment. Then transplant the plant into the new mix. The idea is to get the plant into something that is close to a neutral pH as soon as possible.

 

[newfarmeragain]

It seems that the mix is peat moss and Perlite. The only coco is a cups worth that was used for germination and seedling stages before it was placed in the peat mix. I am a big fan of using peat as an ingredient for a potting mix. When it comes to using it as primary or even the only grow medium the story changes.

I started thinking about the good and bad points of peat moss and as how the peat relates to the issue with @newfarmeragain's plant.


If I am understanding it your soil is primarily peat moss, maybe even as much as 75% but maybe more. The amount of coco is next to nothing.

Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss is extremely acidic and just about every nutrient except Iron is being locked out by low pH values. I am thinking that you will have to make a quick decision on whether you want to go with a compost/dirt based soil mix or a coco coir or other hydroponic soil amendment. Then transplant the plant into the new mix. The idea is to get the plant into something that is close to a neutral pH as soon as possible.

I measured the soil pH, and it is 6.5. I always keep the irrigation water at pH 6.

The plant has been doing better since I started keeping the soil consistently moist with nutrients.

It seems that my nutrients are helping to maintain a higher pH. I’m not sure if it’s due to the calcium or the seaweed extracts, but something is definitely making a difference.

The problem is that I’m noticing some of the new leaves are showing yellowing tips again.

I’m unsure if I can transplant it to another pot since this is the largest pot I have, and I don’t know how to go about it.

 

[013]

to transplant from a grow bag you set the plant on a smaller sized round column such plastic wastebasket then you shuck the old grow bag down… it’s not necessarily easy and you may have to squeeze the soil inwards to be able to shuck the old bag off. Last resort is to cut the bag off…

my comments about peat moss was intended for your next grow… it’s easy to throw soil amendments together the hard part is steering out of a Frankenmix…

What kind of ph meter are you using for testing soil?? If it’s a cheapie probe type soil meter then just know they are not necessarily accurate.

Also know that if you are watering at ph 6.0 then that’s probably part of the issue… for soilless grow media like coco the ph of your liquids shoukd be set at 5.8, but for a soil mi liquids should be set at 6.3

When ph is out of range for the media type then your plant can’t access those nutes… it’s like the nutes are not even there

It’s all good tho, this is how you learn!!!

 

[SmokingWings]

I measured the soil pH, and it is 6.5. I always keep the irrigation water at pH 6.

As long as the instrument used to do the test is accurate.

You mentioned that you added 1 cup of coco coir the peat moss when you transplanted the seedling to the pot. It would seem that the mix is peat moss with one cup of coco and some Perlite.

Looking up Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss shows that CSPM has a pH of 3.0 to 4.5. Unless some compost or dirt has the added a reading of 6.5 does not seem right.

 

[013]

Hey NFA,

Can you drop us a pic of the meter you are using to check soil ph

and do the same for the meter used to check feed water ph…