LKABudMan Grows A Fruit Punch Auto With The Vivosun Smart Grow System! - Featuring Herbies Seeds, GeoFlora & Dynomyco

it does look like it's not entirely happy with the root zone. i chalked the look the leaves are giving up to early n excess at first, but it could be pointing to the roots as well.

it's also eating the top fans faster than the ones inside the canopy which concerns me. it should be the other way around.

my best guess is you've locked all the media up, and your air gap is holding them back from being root bound. it happens in different kinds of passive hydro all the time. by this point i would expect the rootball to be so developed that it won't matter.
 
Date - 11/14/22 - Day# 75 (W11D5)
Strain - Herbies Seeds - Fruit Punch Auto Fem (Heavyweight Seeds)
Grow space - The 'Playpen' - a 32x32x60 tent outfitted with the VIVOSUN Smart Grow System
- AeroLight - The world’s first 100W LED grow light with an integrated circulatory fan
- AeroZesh - 6" Ultra powerful automated exhaust fully programmable through the GrowHub
- Growhub - Controls all tent equipment simultaneously
All controlled through the VIVOSUN App
In -Flowering- Mode
- Light - 12" away, 500-550PPFD, 40-45DLI
- 00:00-04:00 OFF
- 04:00-24:00 Spectrum:Flowering, Intensity:100%, Simulate Sunrise/Sunset
- Circulation Fan
- 00:00-24:00 Natural wind
- Exhaust Fan
- 00:00-04:00 - AUTO Temp 74f Humidity 52% Speed 1 Default:OFF
- 04:00-24:00 - AUTO Temp 80F Humidity 56% Speed 1 Default:OFF
Nutrients - Geoflora Bloom, Purpinator, Sweet Candy, TPS CalMag, Hydroguard / Great White
Medium - 5g SIP container with Sohum soil amended with Dynomyco and GeoFlora Nutrients
Other - 8" Floor Fan, 6" oscillating fan
Water - Carbon-filtered well water (100ppm)

I was watering her on Saturday morning and realized that something stinks! I know Geoflora can have a musty smell, but this was strong sulfer. It smelled like rotten eggs and it was coming from the res! As I was adding water the res was farting through the air hole. I'd been smelling something recently and chalked it up to a recent Geoflora feeding. This was different, though. This is one of the few times on this site that you're lucky there's no smell!

So I decided to drain the res. Easier said than done. In the end, I put a piece of tubing in the inlet and another to syphon out of the air hole gap. Then I blew in the top pipe to create positive pressure in the res, which pushed the water out of the res. And that stuff smelled like shit. There were some rotten root pieces in there too ;( I guess I know why she stopped drinking as much, and possibly some of the deficiencies as well.

I haven't let the res run dry for the entire 70+ days, plenty of time for something to grow down there. I'll use bennies from now on in SIP, and probably let the res run dry at least every week or two.

I got it all drained out then filled with 2L of H2O2 solution (1 part 3% H2O2 to 2 parts water). On Sunday morning that was mostly gone, so I added 2l of nutes along with some Great White (GW). I'll continue using the GW and HydroGuard (HG) in the res through the end of the grow.

This morning there was still water/nutes in the res. I really want the res to go dry before I add anything else. So, I top-watered 1L this morning to get the Geoflora goodness down to her. If the res isn't dry tomorrow, I'll top-water 1/2 liter. I'm going to make her use up everything in the res before I fill it again.

Pebbles is still hanging tough. She's still really light on top, but I'm hoping to get her healthy enough to finish up that last couple of weeks strong!







#VIVOSUN #SmartGrowSystem #LoveWhatYouGrow
Nice plants, LKA!
I have two home-made SIP's and am curious as to what GW and Hydroguard does.

Cheers!
 
I haven't let the res run dry for the entire 70+ days, plenty of time for something to grow down there. I'll use bennies from now on in SIP, and probably let the res run dry at least every week or two.

What are bennies? (other than amphetamines)
 
What are bennies? (other than amphetamines)
Hey HG. Bennies are beneficial bacteria....
Nice plants, LKA!
I have two home-made SIP's and am curious as to what GW and Hydroguard does.

Cheers!
Thanks Scott. Great White (GW) is a water-solubale mycorrhizal fungi powder that contains other beneficial bacteria. Hydroguard (HG) is Bacillus amyloliquefaciens, another beneficial bacteria. I use HG in hydro religiously to ward off root rot. This is the first time I've used GW.

The idea behind bennies is that they outperform the bad bacteria that cause root rot and spoilage. They also help the roots absorb nutrients better. Win-win!
 
That's a great idea. @Bill284 what if you ran HPS in your shed, at least part of the time. Would that be any cheaper than LED+Heaters?
I picked up a floor heating kit yesterday.
I'm pouring 150 pounds of concrete over the heat cables.
That will act as a thermal mass.
Heating from underneath should be efficient.
Keeps the pots at a steady temp and the room fairly warm.
But alternating flower times is an option too.
Can't use my 1000w halogen, Stacey would not be happy about that.
Besides @VIVOSUN is sponsoring it and no halogen.
Strictly top notch VIVOSUN equipment. :thumb:
Hope you have a great day.
Talk soon.




Stay safe
Bill284 :cool:
 
the programmable exhaust fans are fantastic for retaining or scrubbing both heat and rh. they are on my upgrade wish list. the newest gear i'm using is over 5 yrs old now and getting tired.





that's one of the few apps where i would recommend hid lighting. i used hid in heat challenged spaces before. my veg space requires a heater, it wouldn't need it under hid. the initial pull on the light would too much for my wiring though.
Hey @bluter, hope yer well. Sorry, OP. Just wanted to say hi and thank him for his insight in the light/head convo.
 
Date - 11/14/22 - Day# 75 (W11D5)
Strain - Herbies Seeds - Fruit Punch Auto Fem (Heavyweight Seeds)
Grow space - The 'Playpen' - a 32x32x60 tent outfitted with the VIVOSUN Smart Grow System
- AeroLight - The world’s first 100W LED grow light with an integrated circulatory fan
- AeroZesh - 6" Ultra powerful automated exhaust fully programmable through the GrowHub
- Growhub - Controls all tent equipment simultaneously
All controlled through the VIVOSUN App
In -Flowering- Mode
- Light - 12" away, 500-550PPFD, 40-45DLI
- 00:00-04:00 OFF
- 04:00-24:00 Spectrum:Flowering, Intensity:100%, Simulate Sunrise/Sunset
- Circulation Fan
- 00:00-24:00 Natural wind
- Exhaust Fan
- 00:00-04:00 - AUTO Temp 74f Humidity 52% Speed 1 Default:OFF
- 04:00-24:00 - AUTO Temp 80F Humidity 56% Speed 1 Default:OFF
Nutrients - Geoflora Bloom, Purpinator, Sweet Candy, TPS CalMag, Hydroguard / Great White
Medium - 5g SIP container with Sohum soil amended with Dynomyco and GeoFlora Nutrients
Other - 8" Floor Fan, 6" oscillating fan
Water - Carbon-filtered well water (100ppm)

I was watering her on Saturday morning and realized that something stinks! I know Geoflora can have a musty smell, but this was strong sulfer. It smelled like rotten eggs and it was coming from the res! As I was adding water the res was farting through the air hole. I'd been smelling something recently and chalked it up to a recent Geoflora feeding. This was different, though. This is one of the few times on this site that you're lucky there's no smell!

So I decided to drain the res. Easier said than done. In the end, I put a piece of tubing in the inlet and another to syphon out of the air hole gap. Then I blew in the top pipe to create positive pressure in the res, which pushed the water out of the res. And that stuff smelled like shit. There were some rotten root pieces in there too ;( I guess I know why she stopped drinking as much, and possibly some of the deficiencies as well.

I haven't let the res run dry for the entire 70+ days, plenty of time for something to grow down there. I'll use bennies from now on in SIP, and probably let the res run dry at least every week or two.

I got it all drained out then filled with 2L of H2O2 solution (1 part 3% H2O2 to 2 parts water). On Sunday morning that was mostly gone, so I added 2l of nutes along with some Great White (GW). I'll continue using the GW and HydroGuard (HG) in the res through the end of the grow.

This morning there was still water/nutes in the res. I really want the res to go dry before I add anything else. So, I top-watered 1L this morning to get the Geoflora goodness down to her. If the res isn't dry tomorrow, I'll top-water 1/2 liter. I'm going to make her use up everything in the res before I fill it again.

Pebbles is still hanging tough. She's still really light on top, but I'm hoping to get her healthy enough to finish up that last couple of weeks strong!







#VIVOSUN #SmartGrowSystem #LoveWhatYouGrow
Yooo budman glad you got on top of things bet that smell was horrific lol. She is looking wonderful plenty of bud sites too good job man keep going strong
 
Clean, and let's hope this doesn't get too stupid!
We had our 60 gal gas boiler removed.
It did domestic and floor heating.
Pilot light and gas for 60 gallons of water costs a lot, even though floor heating is efficient.
Plus they had all 3 zones on 1 circ pump.
3 thermostats one massive loop. :rolleyes:
I designed a three circ pump system and had a huge instant hot installed.
And ecobee wifi control.
Now I only use gas if I turn on the hot tap or want heat in a zone.
Plus it's 98%"efficient.
Seperate heat and domestic built-in, incredible unit.
The 1993 gas guzzling rental we inherited with the house is gone. :thumb:
And we have wood heat aswell as a heat-pump I had installed in the spring.
Unfortunately we still need a couple windows.
But one thing at a time, right.
If I don't get crippled doing wood this winter I'll be happy.
I'm rooting for spring already. :rofl:
Stay warm Buddy.




#Love What You Grow
Bill284 :cool:
 
hi LKAB, I have a sneaking suspicion that the top watering is causing fertilizer and microbes to leach into the reservoir. Organic nutes can be used in this and other shapes/sizes by scratching into surface and then laying non or restricted breathable plastic, cardboard, whatever over top. Leaving this 'mulch' cover on top will maintain moisture level on top, breaking down fertilizer, until next time you are ready to feed and you will be surprised at how well this works when you lift it and examine the remnant Geoflora.

For the first weeks after transplant, however, consider a pre-buried dose into the medium. Calculate an estimate for how long buried amount should last and keep vigil for signs of hunger just before and after that estimate, and when you pull the trigger, then use the top dress method. Reason for this variation initially is We want an obvious discrepancy between moisture levels at top and bottom that seedling can recognize quickly after transplant to direct root growth toward water source. "Mulching" like this works against this scenario by keeping top moist. After a week of obvious growth, then start using the covering and top dress at your pref'd sched.

In my experience using SIPs, leaching anything through the medium into the reservoir needs to be avoided at all costs as it likely will lead to putrification. It collects elements in the grow matrix washing them into the rez, where otherwise they would not be found, and subsequently quickly rot. This is even more important to organic growers who, for one thing, have many more potentially deadly contents in their medium were it to enter the reservoir, and second, they cannot utilize the remedy of adding h202 to their reservoirs to kill pathogens when they present. Aside from my personal experience (all of the containers I permitted to receive 100% of natural rainfall came up with this issue after a storm) , leached materials are also listed as the primary cause of reservoirs going off in all of the anecdotal and evidentiary data I collected on the grow style (except those instances whereby the individual added something suspect into the reservoir directly - usually LABs or other cultivated liquid-biology).

I recommend either just waiting for bad bacteria to die off for anyone who has this issue after adding something new to the reservoir, or, and this is what I'd rec. here, using Heisenburg teas for treatment. Try mixing your bennies into some room temp water and sugar/molasses and chuck in an airstone for 36 hours, then feed that into the rez. It will have billions more soldiers available to fight and die in the war you need to fight. Remember that unless otherwise specified the recommended applications of these products assume a clean system and are maintenance doses only. If in doubt go ask the Russians how much easier it is to defend rather than attack. You know all this LKAB, I realize.

This leaching issue is somewhat more likely to cause issues in smaller reservoirs that can be more quickly overwhelmed by pathogens, however, in my opinion, all SIPs growers should consider leaching to be one of the cardinal sins.
 
Forgot to add that my most recent experience was with a SIP after I'd flushed it to avoid toxic salts buildup. I top dressed with wormcastings before flushing, hoping they'd mix into medium and help the bounceback after a stressful flush. Well, I didn't remove all of the flushed water right away from one of the two flushed SIPs and this one started to smell in under 48hrs in warm conditions.
 
bennies / enzyme cleaners work best in a recirc system. i don't think you'll get the same benefit in a passive system like sips. you can toss them in there if you want, it's probably wasted money.

sips depends on frequent water changes the same as hempy. if you aren't running the res dry or washing it through with new stuff you'll get rot for sure. very similar to hempy if you don't maintain it.
 
Aside from my personal experience (all of the containers I permitted to receive 100% of natural rainfall came up with this issue after a storm) , leached materials are also listed as the primary cause of reservoirs going off in all of the anecdotal and evidentiary data I collected on the grow style (except those instances whereby the individual added something suspect into the reservoir directly - usually LABs or other cultivated liquid-biology).
Interesting, but that was not my experience with my outdoor vegetable SIPs this season. They were in 17 gallon tubs like yours and the tops were mulched in with a layer of fresh worm castings, then a layer of leaf mold and finally one of grass clippings but otherwise open to the periodic rains.

I filled the reservoir everyday plus whatever rain it got. Never noticed a smell.

sips depends on frequent water changes the same as hempy. if you aren't running the res dry or washing it through with new stuff you'll get rot for sure. very similar to hempy if you don't maintain it.
That's probably good advice especially when the plants are small. My practice during this phase is to monitor the water level with a dipstick and only add a bit more after they have mostly used up what was in there. My theory is there is no reason to add more water if they haven't used what's already there for them.
 
bennies / enzyme cleaners work best in a recirc system. i don't think you'll get the same benefit in a passive system like sips. you can toss them in there if you want, it's probably wasted money.

sips depends on frequent water changes the same as hempy. if you aren't running the res dry or washing it through with new stuff you'll get rot for sure. very similar to hempy if you don't maintain it.
This is not the experience that, now, this is an impression of my own, the vast majority of SIP users experience. I insist on 40% aeration in the medium (perlite and lava rock) and it's my impression that this really helps the fertigation get pulled up quickly and used quickly, so there's no old stuff hanging about. I take your point, Bluter, thanks for making it. Slava Ukraini!
 
This is not the experience that, now, this is an impression of my own, the vast majority of SIP users experience. I insist on 40% aeration in the medium (perlite and lava rock) and it's my impression that this really helps the fertigation get pulled up quickly and used quickly, so there's no old stuff hanging about.


the access to oxygen is the basis of hempy as well. it's 100% perlite. in that system you refresh the res if the plant isn't using it all between feeds. it's on a schedule essentially. you might try running the typical 3-2-1 hempy schedule in sips to see if that helps.
 
Remind us what the 3-2-1 is again?


feed every third day from seedling to mid veg
feed every second day from mid veg to early flower
feed every day in flower.
 
hi LKAB, I have a sneaking suspicion that the top watering is causing fertilizer and microbes to leach into the reservoir. Organic nutes can be used in this and other shapes/sizes by scratching into surface and then laying non or restricted breathable plastic, cardboard, whatever over top. Leaving this 'mulch' cover on top will maintain moisture level on top, breaking down fertilizer, until next time you are ready to feed and you will be surprised at how well this works when you lift it and examine the remnant Geoflora.

For the first weeks after transplant, however, consider a pre-buried dose into the medium. Calculate an estimate for how long buried amount should last and keep vigil for signs of hunger just before and after that estimate, and when you pull the trigger, then use the top dress method. Reason for this variation initially is We want an obvious discrepancy between moisture levels at top and bottom that seedling can recognize quickly after transplant to direct root growth toward water source. "Mulching" like this works against this scenario by keeping top moist. After a week of obvious growth, then start using the covering and top dress at your pref'd sched.

In my experience using SIPs, leaching anything through the medium into the reservoir needs to be avoided at all costs as it likely will lead to putrification. It collects elements in the grow matrix washing them into the rez, where otherwise they would not be found, and subsequently quickly rot. This is even more important to organic growers who, for one thing, have many more potentially deadly contents in their medium were it to enter the reservoir, and second, they cannot utilize the remedy of adding h202 to their reservoirs to kill pathogens when they present. Aside from my personal experience (all of the containers I permitted to receive 100% of natural rainfall came up with this issue after a storm) , leached materials are also listed as the primary cause of reservoirs going off in all of the anecdotal and evidentiary data I collected on the grow style (except those instances whereby the individual added something suspect into the reservoir directly - usually LABs or other cultivated liquid-biology).

I recommend either just waiting for bad bacteria to die off for anyone who has this issue after adding something new to the reservoir, or, and this is what I'd rec. here, using Heisenburg teas for treatment. Try mixing your bennies into some room temp water and sugar/molasses and chuck in an airstone for 36 hours, then feed that into the rez. It will have billions more soldiers available to fight and die in the war you need to fight. Remember that unless otherwise specified the recommended applications of these products assume a clean system and are maintenance doses only. If in doubt go ask the Russians how much easier it is to defend rather than attack. You know all this LKAB, I realize.

This leaching issue is somewhat more likely to cause issues in smaller reservoirs that can be more quickly overwhelmed by pathogens, however, in my opinion, all SIPs growers should consider leaching to be one of the cardinal sins.
Thanks RD this is what I suspected.
bennies / enzyme cleaners work best in a recirc system. i don't think you'll get the same benefit in a passive system like sips. you can toss them in there if you want, it's probably wasted money.

sips depends on frequent water changes the same as hempy. if you aren't running the res dry or washing it through with new stuff you'll get rot for sure. very similar to hempy if you don't maintain it.
I'm putting the bennies in the SIP to keep the res clean. You may be right that they're wasted, but it makes me feel better ;)
That's probably good advice especially when the plants are small. My practice during this phase is to monitor the water level with a dipstick and only add a bit more after they have mostly used up what was in there. My theory is there is no reason to add more water if they haven't used what's already there for them.
In the future I'll let my SIP go dry every couple of weeks. Especially if I'm top-dressing, letting it go dry before feeding and top-watering makes sense.
 
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