Living soil & Korean natural farming question

[QUOTE="dirt mcgert, post: 4495408, member: 253138
You asked for advice. Advice was given. It's up to you in the end.
[/QUOTE]
Or like 1 8 gallon pot + scrog ? Sorry guys but I am abit disappointed ;q
 
I will confirm that done correctly, it is entirely possible to run a TLO organic grow in 3 gallon containers, especially if they are smart pots. The advice you are hearing about the super huge pots is from a guy who runs a true living soil, and he needs that extra large buffer of that huge amount of soil so he can keep his soil alive. I grow differently from him, assuming that most of my microlife dies out every 10 days (although it doesn't) and I supplement the microlife regularly using actively aerated compost teas and microbial super packs, so I don't have to worry about keeping the whole thing thriving. He only gives water, which is super cool and deserving of having that much soil to work with, while I have to work a little harder in 3 gallon containers. Don't be disappointed, just know that there are just about as many growing styles as there are growers. You have a good plan... don't let the naysayers dissuade you from your course.
 
Emilya said:
I will confirm that done correctly, it is entirely possible to run a TLO organic grow in 3 gallon containers, especially if they are smart pots. The advice you are hearing about the super huge pots is from a guy who runs a true living soil, and he needs that extra large buffer of that huge amount of soil so he can keep his soil alive. I grow differently from him, assuming that most of my microlife dies out every 10 days (although it doesn't) and I supplement the microlife regularly using actively aerated compost teas and microbial super packs, so I don't have to worry about keeping the whole thing thriving. He only gives water, which is super cool and deserving of having that much soil to work with, while I have to work a little harder in 3 gallon containers. Don't be disappointed, just know that there are just about as many growing styles as there are growers. You have a good plan... don't let the naysayers dissuade you from your course.
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Hmm so what u suggest ? 1 8gallon pot + scrog or 4x 2 gallons and aloot of compost tea I got actually aquarium pump aswell as I am using in my current grow :)
 
it depends on how long you want this grow to go. If you want a good rootball under your plant, you can't hurry veg.
In 6 weeks you could have a pretty decent plant in 2 gallons ready to bloom, and with 4 plants in 2 gallon containers you are going to end up with around an ounce of dry product per plant at the end.
or you could go up to a 5 gallon container... that takes 8 weeks of veg to do it right. You should be able to get 3-4 oz per plant out of these containers, the general rule being that you double your production with every extra week you spend in veg. If you go up to a 7 gallon container, spend another couple of weeks in veg to really bush that plant out and fill that space, and you should be able to get 5-7 ounces easily, especially under a SCROG.
 
Emilya said:
I will confirm that done correctly, it is entirely possible to run a TLO organic grow in 3 gallon containers, especially if they are smart pots. The advice you are hearing about the super huge pots is from a guy who runs a true living soil, and he needs that extra large buffer of that huge amount of soil so he can keep his soil alive. I grow differently from him, assuming that most of my microlife dies out every 10 days (although it doesn't) and I supplement the microlife regularly using actively aerated compost teas and microbial super packs, so I don't have to worry about keeping the whole thing thriving. He only gives water, which is super cool and deserving of having that much soil to work with, while I have to work a little harder in 3 gallon containers. Don't be disappointed, just know that there are just about as many growing styles as there are growers. You have a good plan... don't let the naysayers dissuade you from your course.
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Hi I got 2 more questions to you if u could help me I would appreciate it alot ^^
1: how often/how much and from what u doing top dressing ?
2:if I will add malted barley powder now and let it cook for example for 2 month it will not burn my seedling ? ^^
Sorry for noobish question :)
 
Virandell said:
Hi I got 2 more questions to you if u could help me I would appreciate it alot ^^
1: how often/how much and from what u doing top dressing ?
2:if I will add malted barley powder now and let it cook for example for 2 month it will not burn my seedling ? ^^
Sorry for noobish question :)
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No question is a bad one. I do no top dressing... it is not needed. Everything the plants need is in that soil, so all I have to do is supply active microlife that have been bred to specialize in the elements needed at that stage of the grow, ie, in veg I create microlife that specializes in nitrogen... later in flower, calcium and phosphorus and potassium are supplied in my teas so that the microlife that works on those elements are what thrives in my tea. The only thing I have done is put a thin layer of both earth worm castings near the top of the container and there is another thin layer just under the surface of bloodmeal... but as far as adding anything else from the top, I don't do it. The top of my containers have a thick mulch layer, and this helps keep the microlife right at the surface very healthy.
So, the malted barely powder during the grow is a good thing, but not for the reasons you are thinking. You don't want to add it to the top of the soil as a nutrient, since it will take months to break down into usable elements for the plants. The barley powder promotes a certain group of microlife. Brew it up in an aact for 36 hours and the water soluble parts of the flour will indeed go into the soil, but the real purpose of that is to create those special helpers. If you want to add it to your soil now as you are beginning to compost (cook) it all together, then yes, adding a bit of it is a good thing. Don't get too far off from the recipes however, because you don't want to lock out other things just so you could get that in there.
 
Emilya said:
No question is a bad one. I do no top dressing... it is not needed. Everything the plants need is in that soil, so all I have to do is supply active microlife that have been bred to specialize in the elements needed at that stage of the grow, ie, in veg I create microlife that specializes in nitrogen... later in flower, calcium and phosphorus and potassium are supplied in my teas so that the microlife that works on those elements are what thrives in my tea. The only thing I have done is put a thin layer of both earth worm castings near the top of the container and there is another thin layer just under the surface of bloodmeal... but as far as adding anything else from the top, I don't do it. The top of my containers have a thick mulch layer, and this helps keep the microlife right at the surface very healthy.
So, the malted barely powder during the grow is a good thing, but not for the reasons you are thinking. You don't want to add it to the top of the soil as a nutrient, since it will take months to break down into usable elements for the plants. The barley powder promotes a certain group of microlife. Brew it up in an aact for 36 hours and the water soluble parts of the flour will indeed go into the soil, but the real purpose of that is to create those special helpers. If you want to add it to your soil now as you are beginning to compost (cook) it all together, then yes, adding a bit of it is a good thing. Don't get too far off from the recipes however, because you don't want to lock out other things just so you could get that in there.
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Right thanks alot :)
hmm so instead of malted barley I think I will do sst from alfalfa I been reading is very good for flo
Right with top dressig I understand now so every how many grows we have to "re supply" all ingredients like rock dust fish meal alfalfa etc becouse they will be not forever there ? I read some guy never been adding anything for few grows later he had struggles with the soil
 
you should take a close look at my last journal though, and see how i take advantage of layers of specific nutrients in my containers, as well as my use of high energy pure nutrient spikes that I drill into the soil in various places for the roots to find.
 
Emilya said:
you should take a close look at my last journal though, and see how i take advantage of layers of specific nutrients in my containers, as well as my use of high energy pure nutrient spikes that I drill into the soil in various places for the roots to find.
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I will definitely do thanks for your help appreciate it :)
 
Emilya said:
Glad to help!
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Omg last short question as I forgot to ask u and I want to hear it for u becouse u using 3 gallons pots are u doing knf ? My friend said is not good to mix it together but I wonder how u doing that ? ^^ I am especially interested in ffj and fpj (I been doing fpj from aloevera and it's been working amazing)
 
Virandell said:
Omg last short question as I forgot to ask u and I want to hear it for u becouse u using 3 gallons pots are u doing knf ? My friend said is not good to mix it together but I wonder how u doing that ? ^^ I am especially interested in ffj and fpj (I been doing fpj from aloevera and it's been working amazing)
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I must be too stoned, but I can not figure out what ffj and fpj are... I will probably smack my head and say "how could I have not figured that out?" but at this point I figured it would be easier to just ask. eh??
 
Emilya said:
I must be too stoned, but I can not figure out what ffj and fpj are... I will probably smack my head and say "how could I have not figured that out?" but at this point I figured it would be easier to just ask. eh??
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Fermented plant juice and fermented fruit juice ^
 
ah, now I understand. I have had several people ask me this and I don't really see where these would be incompatible with each other. While there are both aerobic and anaerobic bacteria and generally the anaerobic class are not beneficial for our gardens, there still are helpful bacteria brought in with KNF. I don't think that I would rely on KNF methods to do everything that we need but I would think that having them being part of the overall population of microbes would be ok.
Regarding fermented fruit juices... this usually produces alcohol as a by product and that would not be beneficial to our soil. Some fruit juices can be useful after fermentation even so, and it is possible to ferment and then apply lactobacillus bacteria to eat up the alcohol. Fermented Plant Extracts (FPE) can be very useful because fermentation releases all of the minerals the plants have been able to accumulate.
 
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