PurpleGunRack
Well-Known Member
The issue is with the size of the intake and/or how well the hot air can escape the closet the tent is in.
What is the m3/h rating on the fan?
Don't worry about the driver, it's the lights that make the most heat, and don't worry about that either you can't find a much better light to heat ratio than you have, so even a smal HPS would make it an oven in there.
Get a watt meter and set it to 135w (or lower)
Yes, the Type A 'CV' (Constant Voltage) ones have a slightly higher voltage than their name suggests and they're the only MW drivers where you can adjust both Volt and Ampere.
A MW HLG 185h - 24A is not 24V max but actually 27V max, it should be 187,2w DC, but it's capable of delivering 210,6w DC (pulls ~227w from the wall)
The Type A 'CC' (Constant Current' drivers can only be dimmed via the Ampere so the Volt will follow according to the load on the unit being powered.
What is the m3/h rating on the fan?
Don't worry about the driver, it's the lights that make the most heat, and don't worry about that either you can't find a much better light to heat ratio than you have, so even a smal HPS would make it an oven in there.
Get a watt meter and set it to 135w (or lower)
I remembered today that the Meanwell "A" type drivers (the ones with built in dimming), run above their rated output when the built in potentiometer is turned to max. I know this is true of mine, I just checked
Yes, the Type A 'CV' (Constant Voltage) ones have a slightly higher voltage than their name suggests and they're the only MW drivers where you can adjust both Volt and Ampere.
A MW HLG 185h - 24A is not 24V max but actually 27V max, it should be 187,2w DC, but it's capable of delivering 210,6w DC (pulls ~227w from the wall)
The Type A 'CC' (Constant Current' drivers can only be dimmed via the Ampere so the Volt will follow according to the load on the unit being powered.