Lexort's Kaneh Bosm CFL Garden

On another subject... I dug up a milk jug... I don't like the shape with the handle cutout. I'll have to find something bettah.

When it comes to milk jugs i like to cut them at the top ridge and leave most the handle intact. That is just my preference lol
 
Something i have learned so far with growing in 2L is that it is best to veg 2-4 weeks depending on how much your girls stretch. Example being, when i root my clones i plant them and let em settle for a few days then when i see growth picking up i give medium strength nutes (now if im shooting for budcicles this would be when they get thrown into flowering and give them veg nutes for the next two weeks then switch to bloom nutes) if shooting for Christmas tree shape in a 2L i found 2 weeks of veg after they stabilize then flip and continue veg nutes for 2 weeks then switch to bloom nutes, when it comes to a 4 week veg in my experience this is the max you can go and its still iffy as to if the plant will make it ok with minimal problems. This is my opinion though!

Well said. Thanks.
I'm doing everything Osmo from here on out... tho my recent visit with the Aurora guy has me second guessing.
 
Well said. Thanks.
I'm doing everything Osmo from here on out... tho my recent visit with the Aurora guy has me second guessing.

Hahaha the temptation must be pretty strong! Lol. Im sure you could make osmo your main and have a couple tester plants for new stuff your interested in hell grow a couple budcicles that won't take up room and still allows for you to push a veg formula and then after 2-3 weeks of that you start giving the bloom formula, that way you could try the new stuff but if the nutes fry and kill your little one then you don't lose out on much. That is worst case scenario ofcourse, best case scenario you see the true potential of the new nutes and end up liking them lol. Just a thought though lol. Key to growing with small containers IMHO is to keep veg time short or do lst asap when they are little to slow their progress a little but i can't see it buying alot more time really so ya just keep it short lol.
 
I know I haven't been updating lately I been trying to figure some stuff out as far as when to end this journal and start another. I am trying to get a sour diesel going to replace one of my bagseed strains so i had to either A throw away a semi rough plant or B flower it as is, and the latter is what i chose to do since i didn't want to waste my favorite bagseed girl. Anyways heres some pictures enjoy!
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Haha ya its a bit trippy lol. Do you have any idea what is up with the purple splotches on the leaves? I thought phosphorus deficiency brought on by the cold snap i had last round of plants but this time around the temps are up. I been contemplating whether im not giving strong enough nutes for the led light cause I have only seen them go purple since switching to the led panel from cfls.
 
I'm afraid I won't be any help. The times I had purple leaves that looked like that it was when I flowered small plants in pots that were too big for how I was managing things. I'd soak them down every weekend and they stayed overwatered and turned purple and stunted. I doubt that's your situation.
A good guy to ask if you want help with deficiencies and such things is VillageIdiot.
Usually there's more than one issue going on and things overlap and interrelate - gets complicated fairly quickly trying to unravel it.
 
With leds your 1st go to should always be more cal/mag Lex. They seem to eat that up with led. 1 tsp per gal at all times. :thumb:
I agree. General Organics calls for 5 ml of cal/mg but i always add 7 ml/gallon
 
I'm afraid I won't be any help. The times I had purple leaves that looked like that it was when I flowered small plants in pots that were too big for how I was managing things. I'd soak them down every weekend and they stayed overwatered and turned purple and stunted. I doubt that's your situation.
A good guy to ask if you want help with deficiencies and such things is VillageIdiot.
Usually there's more than one issue going on and things overlap and interrelate - gets complicated fairly quickly trying to unravel it.

Alright ya I was just throwing it out there really. I guess I need to go track down VillageIdiot cause i really been stumped cause alots not adding up and I do need a second set of eyes on it.
 
With leds your 1st go to should always be more cal/mag Lex. They seem to eat that up with led. 1 tsp per gal at all times. :thumb:

Ya i do know about needing more calmag with leds,and i do give them plenty the get some in the floramicro and i add some calimagic as well lol. Im just wondering if having this more powerful led panel (more powerful than the cfls i was running atleast) makes my girls crave more phosphorus. On another note I am glad to see your still hanging around i had been going through my journal the other day and I realized you been stopping by my garden for quite some time now! Lol.
 
It would be interesting to see you get a new strain - and compare how that grows to what you have growing now. Sometimes you just get a fussy one that's acts up a lot.
 
I agree. General Organics calls for 5 ml of cal/mg but i always add 7 ml/gallon

Ya i give 1/2tsp of floramicro (depending on what stage but most my schedule calls for 1/2tsp) which has 5% calcium then the florabloom has 1.5% mag and depending on schedule dose of that ranges from 1/4tsp up to 1tsp then I add calimagic usually 1/2tsp per gallon which its 5% calcium and 1.5% mag so I would think that's enough lol
 
It would be interesting to see you get a new strain - and compare how that grows to what you have growing now. Sometimes you just get a fussy one that's acts up a lot.
Well I am sprouting a sour diesel fem at the moment lol im anxious to see if these problems im having are just the bagseed genetics or if something is screwed up in my setup.
 
I just found a little bit that sounds kinda like what is going on with my girls wondering what you guys think?

During a plant's life cycle, the leaves go through changes creating phytochemicals for various reasons which give plants their color, anthoxanthins (white/cream), carotenoids (yellow/orange), chlorophyll (green), lycopene (red), and cnthocyanin which make up the vibrant purple and blue color in plants. Each of these compounds play a unique roll in the nature of a plant's life, as well as its survival.
Anthocyanins serve to protect photosynthetic tissues from stress brought on by different light intensities and spectrums. Essentially, the anthocyanin acts as a sunscreen for the leaves. (It should be noted that LED lights with sophisticated spectrums could aid in increased anthocyanin production.)
Anthocyanin production is also thought to be a nectar guides for pollinators such as butterflies, hummingbirds, bees, as well as deter some insects from laying eggs on the foliage by tricking them into thinking the plant is unhealthy
 
I just found a little bit that sounds kinda like what is going on with my girls wondering what you guys think?

During a plant's life cycle, the leaves go through changes creating phytochemicals for various reasons which give plants their color, anthoxanthins (white/cream), carotenoids (yellow/orange), chlorophyll (green), lycopene (red), and cnthocyanin which make up the vibrant purple and blue color in plants. Each of these compounds play a unique roll in the nature of a plant's life, as well as its survival.
Anthocyanins serve to protect photosynthetic tissues from stress brought on by different light intensities and spectrums. Essentially, the anthocyanin acts as a sunscreen for the leaves. (It should be noted that LED lights with sophisticated spectrums could aid in increased anthocyanin production.)
Anthocyanin production is also thought to be a nectar guides for pollinators such as butterflies, hummingbirds, bees, as well as deter some insects from laying eggs on the foliage by tricking them into thinking the plant is unhealthy

I can dig it Lex. I had the same worries with a couple plants when the leaves started Purpling and getting dark colors. I attribute the changes to the cooler temps ive had during the winter months. These anthocyanins help explain what is really happening.
 
I can dig it Lex. I had the same worries with a couple plants when the leaves started Purpling and getting dark colors. I attribute the changes to the cooler temps ive had during the winter months. These anthocyanins help explain what is really happening.

So it does make sense and its not wishful thinking? I mean this led panel has great spectrum from what I've read so the led part stuck out to me.
 
Found some info on your issue, little long winded but I think it ll be a great reference!:thumb:



Phosphorus (P) Mobile Element and Macro Element

Benefit: Phosphorus does a lot of things for the plant. One of the most important parts of Phosphorus is: It aids in root growth and influences the vigor of the plant and is one of the most important elements in flowering as well helps to germinate seedlings.
Phosphorus is an essential plant nutrient, and since it is needed in large amounts, it is classified as a macronutrient. Phosphorus is a MAJOR important nutrient in the plants reproductive stages. Without this element the plants will have a lot of problems blooming without proper levels of Phosphorus.


When your plants are deficient in phosphorus, this can overall reduce the size of your plants. Not enough causes slow growth and causes the plant to become weak, to little amount of Phosphorus causes slow growths in leaves that may or may not drop off. The edges all around the leaves or half of the leaves can be brownish and work its way inwards a bit causing the part of the leaves to curl up in the air a bit. Fan leaves will show dark greenish/purplish and yellowish tones along with a dullish blue color to them. Sometimes the stems can be red, along with red petioles that can happen when having a Phosphorus deficiency. This isn’t a sure sure sign of you having one though, but can be a sign. Some strains just show the red petioles and stems from its genes.

So pretty much the overall dark green color with a purple, red, or blue tint to the fan leaves is a good sign of a Phosphorus deficiency.

Having Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can make phosphorous absorption very troublesome for plants.

Many people get a Phosphorus deficiency confused with a fungus problem because the ends of the leaves look like a fungus problem, But the damage occurs at the end of the leaves. side of the leaves and has a glass like feeling to it as if it had a ph problem. Parts affected by a phosphorus deficiency are: Older Leaves, Whole plant, Petioles.

Too much Phosphorus levels affect plant growth by suppressing the uptake of: Iron, potassium and Zinc, potentially causing deficiency symptoms of these nutrients to occur def in plants. A Zinc deficiency is most common under excessive phosphorus conditions, as well as causing other nutrients to have absorption troubles like zinc and copper. Phosphorus fluctuates when concentrated and combined with calcium



Problems with Phosphorus being locked out by PH troubles

Cold wet soils, acid or very alkaline soils, compacted soil.


Soil

Phosphorus gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.0-5.5
Phosphorus is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.0-7.5 (wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Phosphorus deficiency.


Hydro and Soil less Mediums

Phosphorus gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 6.0-8.5.
Phosphorus is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.0- 5.8. (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Phosphorus Deficiency.



Solution to fixing a Phosphorus deficiency
Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Any chemical or organic fertilizers that have Phosphorus in them will fix a Phosphorus deficiency. If you have a phosphorus deficiency you should use any N-P-K ratio that is over 5.Again Peters all purpose 20-20-20 is a good mix. Miracle grow Tomato plant food, Miracle grow All purpose plant food (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients, or it will cause nutrient burn!) Other forms of phosphorus supplements are: Bone meal, which is gradual absorption, I suggest making it into a tea for faster use, where bone/blood meal is slow acting, but when made into a tea it works quicker! Fruit eating bat guano, which is fast absorption, Worm castings, which is gradual absorption, Fish meal, which is medium absorption, Soft Rock Phosphate, which is medium absorption, Jamaican or Indonesian Guano, which is fast absorption. Crabshell, which is slow absorption. Tiger Bloom , which is fast absorption.

Here is a list of things to help fix a Phosphrus Deficiency.

Chemical

Advanced nutrients Bloom (0-5-4)
Vita Bloom (0-7-5)
BC Bloom (1.1-4.4-7)
GH Flora Bloom (0-5-4)
GH Maxi Bloom (5-15-14)
GH Floranova Bloom (4-8-7)
Dyna-Gro Bloom (3-12-6)
Fox Farm Tiger Bloom (2-8-4)
Awsome Blossums

Organic

Dr. Hornby's Iguana Juice Bloom (4-3-6)
Advanced Nutrients Mother Earth Bloom (.5-1.5-2)
Fox Farm Big Bloom (.01-.3-.7)
Earth Juice Bloom (0-3-1)
Pure Blend Bloom (2.5-2-5)
Pure Blend Pro Bloom (2.5-2-5)
Buddswell (0-7-0)
Sea Island Jamaican Bat Guano (1-10-0)
Indonesian Bat Guano (0-13-0)
Rainbow Mix Bloom (1-9-2)
Earth Juice Bloom (0-3-1)
BIO BLOOM (2-6-3.5)
AGE OLD BLOOM (5-10-5)
ALASKA MORBLOOM (0-10-10)
METANATURALS ORGANIC BLOOM (1-5-5)


Any of these will cure your phosphorus deficiency. Affected leaves will not show recovery but new growth will appear normal.


Now if you added to much chemical ferts and or organics,( which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) You need to Flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients.


Note: Blood Meal, Dried Blood, Guanos, Kelp Meal, Cotton Seed Meal, Peat Moss,
Sulfur and fish meal are all acidic and can bring your ph down, so if you add these please monitor your ph when using those.

Note: Bone Meal, Rock Phosphate, Wood Ashes pretty much all ashes, Shellfish Compost and Crab Meal are all alkaline and can make your ph go up, so if you add any of these please monitor your ph.
 
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