Derbybud
Well-Known Member
Wow otter that room has to smell great. Nice job on the harvest and grow.
Lemon OG Candy Philosopher Seeds From Cannapot
- Thread starter StoneOtter
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #1,162
Thanks Derby, it's my favorite smell!
The Bard
Well-Known Member
Just a quick note to say how much I enjoyed this journal. I read it from start to finish over a couple of nights, following up on @Virgin ground's parallel grow. Was cool to see all the different phenos emerge. Wow, that tent was bursting. Congrats!
I hope you find it mildly entertaining. I think that journal is pretty clean, I can be a bit crass at times on my continuous journal. Lol.
I have 5 strains sitting in front of me right now, she's the only one that I really want. Lol.
Mr.Ground and I are going to fight to the death ala Star Trek for her last bud.
The Bard
Well-Known Member
I found both journals to be entertaining, and really informative! No crass-ness! Lemon OG Candy is now on my seed list for a future purpose, thanks to you both.
Stone, did you take clones from these girls?
- Thread starter
- #1,167
Thanks Bard! I was and am still so grateful to the 420 Mag and all the fantastic members who help and contribute every day. I learned almost everything here and you made my day to hear someone else enjoyed and maybe learned something. VG and I learned tons and had a fun grow together... separately.
- Thread starter
- #1,168
No, I only have a strawberry cough, daughter of the one I dropped that was never the same after. She's interesting though finicky and I love the smoke. I should have the place back up in a couple of days with her for my focus. I need a clone tent
or area one day.- Thread starter
- #1,169
So I got Fungus Gnats this round. This is something about them. The more we know, the better we can kill! These pesky bastards. I found this from The Missouri Botanical Garden.
Fungus gnats
Fungus gnats, insects that belong to the fly family Diptera, occur around damp, decaying vegetation, algae, and fungi. These tiny gnats can appear in large numbers in or around buildings, prompting complaints, and also can be a problem in greenhouses, nurseries, and interior plantscapes. Fungus gnats infest soil and container media, where larvae feed on organic matter and roots, feeder roots and root hairs.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Adult fungus gnats primarily are a nuisance. They can enter buildings as flying adults and develop indoors through all life stages. They do not bite people or animals and, in the United States, are not known to carry human pathogens. Adults feed very little, consuming only liquids, such as water or flower nectar.
Fungus gnat larvae do damage plants. When their preferred food choices run out, they feed on roots, stunting plant growth, causing foliage to yellow and leaves to drop. Larval damage can be especially serious in greenhouses, nurseries, and sod farms where they harm seedlings, cuttings, and young plants without fully developed root systems. Both larvae and adults can spread plant pathogens and may promote disease in commercial crops. They have been implicated in the transmission of plant fungal diseases, including black root rot, Pythium blight, Verticillium wilt, Botrytis blight and Fusarium wilt.
Outdoors, little serious damage is done by fungus gnat larvae. Their population is kept in check by natural predators, weather and seasonal changes. Any root feeding in gardens or landscapes is usually minor in comparison with the gnats’ beneficial role as decomposers converting dead vegetation into nutrients for plant growth, as important pollinators and as food for small animals such as birds, reptiles and beneficial insect predators.
Fungus gnats are sometimes confused with other small flies not discussed here, including black flies, midges, mosquitoes, shore flies, moth flies and March flies. Adult fungus gnats are dark, delicate-looking insects, similar in appearance to mosquitoes. They have slender legs and segmented antennae that are longer than their heads. Adults commonly are about 1/8 to 1/16-inch long with wings that are light gray to clear. The common species have a Y-shaped wing vein. Fungus gnats are relatively weak fliers and remain near plants running or resting on growing media, foliage, or plant litter. They have mandibles for gnawing and tunneling.
Females lay tiny eggs in moist organic debris or potting soil. The ¼ inch long larvae have a shiny black head and an elongate, whitish to clear, legless body. They eat organic mulch, leaf mold, grass clippings, compost, root hairs, algae and fungi. If conditions are especially moist and fungus gnats are abundant, larvae can leave slime trails on the surface of media that look like trails from small snails or slugs.
Life Cycle
Fungus gnats develop through four stages: egg, larvae (four larval stages or instars), pupa, and adult. They produce many generations in a year. Adult females deposit 30 to 200 whitish-yellow eggs singly or in clusters in crevices or cracks on the surface of growing media, and in moist, organic debris. They prefer to lay eggs where fungus is growing. Indoors, they occur anytime of year.
The larvae feed for about 2 weeks and then pupate near the soil surface within thread chambers. After 3 to 7 days in the pupal stage, adults emerge and live for about 8 days. The gnats develop from egg to adult in 3 to 4 weeks. Their life cycle is dependent on temperature. The developmental time increases as temperature decreases.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Live with the gnats. If damage is minimal, the prudent thing to do is do nothing.
2. Use physical and cultural controls to manage the gnats. Screening windows/ doors and reducing moisture are recommended. Maintaining good sanitation is vital. Dead plant material and debris must be picked up. Spilled growing media and algae must be cleaned. Over watering and sloppy irrigation need to be avoided. To kill larvae, allow soil to dry as much as possible (without damaging plants) between waterings.. Provide good ventilation. Dry, level, weed-free, well drained greenhouses floors eliminate breeding larvae.
3. Avoid problems. Do not bring infested plant containers indoors.
4. Traps. Use yellow sticky traps for trapping adult flies and monitoring their population.
5. Biological controls. Use biological control agents such as nematodes, rove beetles, and mites to control fungus gnats. Bacillus thuringiensis subspecies israelensis (Gnatrol and Summit Mosquito Bits) is effective against larvae in potted plants. It is toxic for 2 days and doesn’t kill egg laying adults, so repeat applications are necessary. It is best used as prevention. Steinernema feltiae is an insect killing nematode that can be applied as a drench treatment. Best results come from a first application at planting and then following with 2 to 3 weekly applications. Ineffecftive when used to reduce a serious infestation. Hypoaspis miles is a small, soil-dwelling predatory mite that feeds on gnat larvae. It is spread over the growing media surface at planting. The mites are best used when gnat populations are low. It is compatible with Bt and S. feltiae
Fungus gnats
|
| Fungus gnat (Diptera) on fruit of ponderosa lemon (Citrus) |
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Adult fungus gnats primarily are a nuisance. They can enter buildings as flying adults and develop indoors through all life stages. They do not bite people or animals and, in the United States, are not known to carry human pathogens. Adults feed very little, consuming only liquids, such as water or flower nectar.
Fungus gnat larvae do damage plants. When their preferred food choices run out, they feed on roots, stunting plant growth, causing foliage to yellow and leaves to drop. Larval damage can be especially serious in greenhouses, nurseries, and sod farms where they harm seedlings, cuttings, and young plants without fully developed root systems. Both larvae and adults can spread plant pathogens and may promote disease in commercial crops. They have been implicated in the transmission of plant fungal diseases, including black root rot, Pythium blight, Verticillium wilt, Botrytis blight and Fusarium wilt.
Outdoors, little serious damage is done by fungus gnat larvae. Their population is kept in check by natural predators, weather and seasonal changes. Any root feeding in gardens or landscapes is usually minor in comparison with the gnats’ beneficial role as decomposers converting dead vegetation into nutrients for plant growth, as important pollinators and as food for small animals such as birds, reptiles and beneficial insect predators.
Fungus gnats are sometimes confused with other small flies not discussed here, including black flies, midges, mosquitoes, shore flies, moth flies and March flies. Adult fungus gnats are dark, delicate-looking insects, similar in appearance to mosquitoes. They have slender legs and segmented antennae that are longer than their heads. Adults commonly are about 1/8 to 1/16-inch long with wings that are light gray to clear. The common species have a Y-shaped wing vein. Fungus gnats are relatively weak fliers and remain near plants running or resting on growing media, foliage, or plant litter. They have mandibles for gnawing and tunneling.
Females lay tiny eggs in moist organic debris or potting soil. The ¼ inch long larvae have a shiny black head and an elongate, whitish to clear, legless body. They eat organic mulch, leaf mold, grass clippings, compost, root hairs, algae and fungi. If conditions are especially moist and fungus gnats are abundant, larvae can leave slime trails on the surface of media that look like trails from small snails or slugs.
Life Cycle
Fungus gnats develop through four stages: egg, larvae (four larval stages or instars), pupa, and adult. They produce many generations in a year. Adult females deposit 30 to 200 whitish-yellow eggs singly or in clusters in crevices or cracks on the surface of growing media, and in moist, organic debris. They prefer to lay eggs where fungus is growing. Indoors, they occur anytime of year.
The larvae feed for about 2 weeks and then pupate near the soil surface within thread chambers. After 3 to 7 days in the pupal stage, adults emerge and live for about 8 days. The gnats develop from egg to adult in 3 to 4 weeks. Their life cycle is dependent on temperature. The developmental time increases as temperature decreases.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Live with the gnats. If damage is minimal, the prudent thing to do is do nothing.
2. Use physical and cultural controls to manage the gnats. Screening windows/ doors and reducing moisture are recommended. Maintaining good sanitation is vital. Dead plant material and debris must be picked up. Spilled growing media and algae must be cleaned. Over watering and sloppy irrigation need to be avoided. To kill larvae, allow soil to dry as much as possible (without damaging plants) between waterings.. Provide good ventilation. Dry, level, weed-free, well drained greenhouses floors eliminate breeding larvae.
3. Avoid problems. Do not bring infested plant containers indoors.
4. Traps. Use yellow sticky traps for trapping adult flies and monitoring their population.
5. Biological controls. Use biological control agents such as nematodes, rove beetles, and mites to control fungus gnats. Bacillus thuringiensis subspecies israelensis (Gnatrol and Summit Mosquito Bits) is effective against larvae in potted plants. It is toxic for 2 days and doesn’t kill egg laying adults, so repeat applications are necessary. It is best used as prevention. Steinernema feltiae is an insect killing nematode that can be applied as a drench treatment. Best results come from a first application at planting and then following with 2 to 3 weekly applications. Ineffecftive when used to reduce a serious infestation. Hypoaspis miles is a small, soil-dwelling predatory mite that feeds on gnat larvae. It is spread over the growing media surface at planting. The mites are best used when gnat populations are low. It is compatible with Bt and S. feltiae
Great info on the gnats, thanks otter! Oh yeah...heard you took down a couple of plants this weekend. Sorry I missed it. Looks like a great haul and I'm glad you survived that all-at-once harvest!
What's this about growing in a wooden shed? My shed is exposed plywood and 2x4s, as evidenced by my avatar
.
What's this about growing in a wooden shed? My shed is exposed plywood and 2x4s, as evidenced by my avatar
.- Thread starter
- #1,171
Getting the cycle of their life in mind for future killing tactics. Thanks pal, I do love me a harvest, aches and all.Great info on the gnats, thanks otter! Oh yeah...heard you took down a couple of plants this weekend. Sorry I missed it. Looks like a great haul and I'm glad you survived that all-at-once harvest!
What's this about growing in a wooden shed? My shed is exposed plywood and 2x4s, as evidenced by my avatar
- Thread starter
- #1,172
What Did I Learn
This was a learning rich grow for me. Starting with it being a gift of Philosopher seeds from Cannapot. Just that made it fun and I'm grateful to both. Genetics is key and it shows here!
Reading The Rev's book True Living Organics and mixing Living Organic Soil and having it work was a huge buzz. I have plenty to learn for future runs. My ph pen is in the pool shed lately, I didn't use it once this grow. I like that a lot.
I threw caution out the window when I decided to grow them without a scrog net, as I had only grown autos natural before. Then to tempt fate even more i let them grow a few nodes too long. That decision, along with one plant that wanted to grow way to the sativa side and hit the roof of the tent made my days exciting. Something new to tweak twice a day lots of days! It really was a fun grow however don't try this at home. One Bug, or a sickness would have ruined the whole crop. I couldn't even see my timer or power strips. The danger factor was too high this grow and I won't willfully do this again, fun as it was. My new goal is to make the best of the bottom 2/3's of the tent.
Microbes and other tiny life are newish to me and involved with this style of growing. I find the circle of life in the way plants and microbes interact fascinating. More to learn there too.
The stretch. Waiting for the stretch to complete I learned, is important for hormones to develop for bud structure. I didn't know that if I cut the stretch time down by stripping leaves or supercropping I would be decreasing the opportunity the buds have to grow large.
Fungus Gnats. Got em. The Rev says we're going to get them and I did. Dusting with Safers Garden Dust and waiting 2 weeks decreased them by a lot but I still don't like it. I'll put it on a schedule this coming grow and see. They're already there.
I re-enforced knowing the body of knowledge here on 420 Mag is incredible and members are fantastically willing to share. Thank You Thank You Thank You my 420 Family!
This was a learning rich grow for me. Starting with it being a gift of Philosopher seeds from Cannapot. Just that made it fun and I'm grateful to both. Genetics is key and it shows here!
Reading The Rev's book True Living Organics and mixing Living Organic Soil and having it work was a huge buzz. I have plenty to learn for future runs. My ph pen is in the pool shed lately, I didn't use it once this grow. I like that a lot.
I threw caution out the window when I decided to grow them without a scrog net, as I had only grown autos natural before. Then to tempt fate even more i let them grow a few nodes too long. That decision, along with one plant that wanted to grow way to the sativa side and hit the roof of the tent made my days exciting. Something new to tweak twice a day lots of days! It really was a fun grow however don't try this at home. One Bug, or a sickness would have ruined the whole crop. I couldn't even see my timer or power strips. The danger factor was too high this grow and I won't willfully do this again, fun as it was. My new goal is to make the best of the bottom 2/3's of the tent.
Microbes and other tiny life are newish to me and involved with this style of growing. I find the circle of life in the way plants and microbes interact fascinating. More to learn there too.
The stretch. Waiting for the stretch to complete I learned, is important for hormones to develop for bud structure. I didn't know that if I cut the stretch time down by stripping leaves or supercropping I would be decreasing the opportunity the buds have to grow large.
Fungus Gnats. Got em. The Rev says we're going to get them and I did. Dusting with Safers Garden Dust and waiting 2 weeks decreased them by a lot but I still don't like it. I'll put it on a schedule this coming grow and see. They're already there.
I re-enforced knowing the body of knowledge here on 420 Mag is incredible and members are fantastically willing to share. Thank You Thank You Thank You my 420 Family!
- Thread starter
- #1,173
One last pic bomb for the road.
Absolutely beautiful Stone!One last pic bomb for the road.
Don't forget to contact Cannapot. They will send you a few seeds for completing your grow. They sent me a couple of autos and some photos as well.
I just got done talking to irie. He's quite the generous guy, eh?
- Thread starter
- #1,175
I contacted them yesterday and am excited! What ones did they send you? Yea irie is awesome. He's just the right person around here and very generous in all ways. And a super grower! Like all the members here I wish all my neighbors were as nice as folks here!
They sent me RQS Critical, Sensi Northern Lights, WOS Amnesia Ryder Auto and Nirvana AK-48 Auto. I requested for a couple of autos and they obliged. I've never grown an auto so I am excited to have these tucked away.
- Thread starter
- #1,177
Wow those are some fine pics! There's some great growing coming up. Autos are fun, when you do grow them see the link for autos in my sig. to better understand them.
You bet I'll check it out. I have absolutely no clue.
- Thread starter
- #1,179
A little update on the drying. They hang in a room at 58% rh today. It's been perfect in my opinion for air drying. started at 60% and is decreasing slowly daily. Today is the 4th day I believe and they are shrinking as planned. Another two or three days it looks to be for them to finish and into bags for the finish dry to 58%. I have jars for when they get to the desired rh and will vacuum them with a seal a meal vac sealer for storage. Thats's if I catch it just right. If not then bovedas go in and no vacuum. Enjoy the day.
Growing is such a waiting game...until it's not! Beautiful buds, beautiful bud pics 
.
.