Delps8
Well-Known Member
Strictly speaking, you don't have to even do that.The other types of measurements such as micromoles are just approximations via linear equations based on Lux, correct? Unless one has a fancy expensive meter? I hope it’s that simple.
You can use lux to set light levels for your grow. Below is a simple table will give some idea of what light levels to use. I think in PPFD which is expressed in µmols/second/square meter ("µmols"). PPFD indicates how many photons are hitting one square meter of the canopy every second. Read that description again and then forget about it.
The table above is the way that I grow cannabis. Those light levels work for my environment and many growers and many sources on the internet will disagree with them because "those light levels are too high". If your grow environment is optimized, cannabis will benefit from a staggering amount of light.
A key point is that my grow has pretty good conditions - temperatures are usually close to optimal, VPD rarely leaves the optimal level, I run a large dehumidifier in the garage, the humidifier in the tent is electronically controlled, water temperature is constant, my RO water is consistently 0 PPM, nutes are measured to 0.1±gm, I use a calibrated Apogee MQ-500, etc., etc.
Scroll back to message #14 in this thread which is my posting with the images and the table.
I have the UT383 now and am a bit overwhelmed with all the terminology, symbols, conversions and so on being used online. Maybe I’m being too simplistic but after reading through various threads, it appears that this meter only measures brightness as in “Lux”, but has a button that does a one step conversion to foot candles.
The other types of measurements such as micromoles are just approximations via linear equations based on Lux, correct? Unless one has a fancy expensive meter? I hope it’s that simple.
If it helps, I’m using a sf2000 and sf7000, both from spider farmer, separately in two respective tents that are both 2x4. I see these figures referenced elsewhere for lux readings* but I’m curious as to whether it’s this simple given my situation: the sf7000 is overpowered for this size tent and I need to back it down with the dimmer vs manufacturers recos. I do wonder though if the spectrum coverage gets compromised by doing so.
*
Seedling : 15,000 lux.
Veg : 20,000 - 50,000 lux.
Flower : 50,000 +
Many thanks.
You want to take readings in lux.I have the UT383 now and am a bit overwhelmed with all the terminology, symbols, conversions and so on being used online. Maybe I’m being too simplistic but after reading through various threads, it appears that this meter only measures brightness as in “Lux”, but has a button that does a one step conversion to foot candles.
No. And it does not matter. And it is as complex as you want to make it.The other types of measurements such as micromoles are just approximations via linear equations based on Lux, correct? Unless one has a fancy expensive meter? I hope it’s that simple.
Details
If you refer to message #14 in this thread, the first graphic shows that the human eye is very sensitive to green light and less so toward the blue and red parts of the spectrum. Lux meters report the amount of light in this range.
The spectrum that we use to describe where plants are most sensitive is referred to as PAR. It's a different set of wavelengths and plants are more sensitive to some parts of PAR than others.
You can covert lux to PAR - that's what message 14 illustrates.
"compromised" - that's a "How many angels can fit on the head of a pin?" discussion. What does "compromised" mean?If it helps, I’m using a sf2000 and sf7000, both from spider farmer, separately in two respective tents that are both 2x4. I see these figures referenced elsewhere for lux readings* but I’m curious as to whether it’s this simple given my situation: the sf7000 is overpowered for this size tent and I need to back it down with the dimmer vs manufacturers recos. I do wonder though if the spectrum coverage gets compromised by doing so.
We can prove that the light output from one SF2000 is different from the next one coming off the line. It's a tiny difference — is that "compromised"? Not to me.
Your light will be putting out fewer photons and a different mix of photons after it's been used for a week, a month, a year. It's measurable and reproducible. Is that "compromised"? No.
Consider - "Measurable but insignficant." That covers a lot of things in life.
The other day, I took 41 samples when I took light readings. I could not possibly reproduce those values because light levels are measurably different if the sensor moves less than 1" from the light source.
The goal of a light meter for most cannabis grows - and this is why I recommend a light meter even though I have a PAR meter - is to get you close and then allow you to "adjust fire".
Assuming the other parts of the grow environment are…up to par, those light values will result in a bountiful crop.*
Seedling : 15,000 lux.
Veg : 20,000 - 50,000 lux.
Flower : 50,000 +
Many thanks.