Stan....your in luck i am an electrician by trade for 30 years.
1=Led lighting all in one units produce a huge amout heat because the ballast are in the housing of the light.I would make a remote ballast LED the application would increase for small rooms and tents.you can remote the ballast outside the room and control your temp much better.
2=LED.would consider an LED a directional light.This gives a big adavantage to the HID.
Common manufacturers of metal halide and high pressure (HP) sodium lights include Philips, General Electric, Iwasaki, Venture, and Osram/Sylvania. Many of the manufacturers buy and use the same components, often manufactured by competitors. Most often the bulbs have the exact same technical statistics.
Lighting Chart - A guide for wattage per square foot.
HID Light Output Primary Growing Area ,Suplemental area
100 watts 2' x 2' 3' x 3'
250 watts 3' x 3' 4' x 4'
400 watts 4' x 4' 6' x 6'
600 watts 6' x 6' 8' x 8'
1000 watts 8' x 8' 12' x 12'
The LED has little to no suplemental area that is do to its lack of a reflector.
If you look at the numbers above that is whats called a foot print of the unit
In this way you can over lap your suplemental light with multipal units.
this is almost impossible with LED.As i use a 600watt unit i can tell you it will only cover area 3x3 but it grows plant very well.
3=Efficient energy use.I use a 600 watt unit but it draws 740 watts of power that needs to be worked on you are using 140watts more then an HID that is power that is wasted that could be used in my garden better.or saved think green.
4=This would be some extras that would help on the selling points.put a built in time in the remote ballist.and put a few green bulbs in with a switch on your ballist so you can work in your garden and not mess with the bloom.If you work on the problems and add the features i think you could have the prerfect lighting system.