I thought it said amended living soil i misread that
Leaves look bad, help please!
- Thread starter Floki88
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- #42
Now I've seen what's called great white at the store which supplies those fungi and all you talk about would adding those in accordance with it's directions change anything when it comes to feeding?
Great white is myco. Has to be applied directly to the plants roots when transplanting to be effective.
The curled leaves sucks but your plants don't look all that bad brother. And you've got some good advice. @Emilya knows her soils
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- #44
Oh ok, I read the bottle it said you can apply directly to roots when transplanting but also makes a watering solution that you give like every two weeks for optimal results is what I think it said. I thought about getting it but wasn't sure. A whole big list of words I can't say is what it contains lol
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- #45
And yea she went in-depth with detail I appreciate her input as well. And you aren't the first to mention her so her input is looking more and more valuable
Never used a soil PH meter never needed one.
If you water with a 6.3ish going on. And you water till 15 to 25% runoff and remove the excess. Your soil PH will never need to be adjusted. It'll always stay in an acceptable range. Thats only if you get runoff. Runoff removes excess salts from the last watering and keeps lockout at bay.
6.2 and under in soil calcium intake slows WAY down. I always keep my ph going in around 6.3 to 6.5 in soil. That seems to be the sweet spot.
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- #47
Ok thanks I can work with that. And common opinion is deficiency so I'ma feed her tomorrow with big bloom and grow big unless she grew pistils, at least a coupleand not just one overnight. Then I'll use the flower nutes. But feeding her distilled water with the nutes and ph 6.3 should help her start thriving again?
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Well, I find myself agreeing with Mr.Sauga on this as far as the leaves indicating a potassium deficiency, I just don't agree with this not adjusting pH thing.
As far as the nutrient thing, FF gives you different loads of their nutes for each week of the grow. If you are in week 5, or the week you flip, you should have just started giving tiger bloom. You should have been giving Big Bloom since day one and Grow big since week 2. Your nutrient deficiencies can be very easily explained just by looking at the feeding chart. Here is a copy for your own use.
As far as the nutrient thing, FF gives you different loads of their nutes for each week of the grow. If you are in week 5, or the week you flip, you should have just started giving tiger bloom. You should have been giving Big Bloom since day one and Grow big since week 2. Your nutrient deficiencies can be very easily explained just by looking at the feeding chart. Here is a copy for your own use.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Are you alternating feed one time and then plain water the next, continuously going back and forth or are you feeding every time?
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- #50
Thanks for the chart, I just thought that with soil already having stuff in it that I shouldn't give nutes as that would over do it and that the schedule was for plain like normal soil. So I fed once the big bloom and grow big and only water since cuz it looked like I burned her by doing it, however it sounds like I misinterpreted the very first symptoms. If actively feeding I'd alternate back and forth between food and plain water each watering...
Question about the chart.. do the colors mean something? The orange green and purple? I only have the three green, am I supposed to get and use all the others too? Or is just the three good?
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
The feeding chart was made to be used along with Fox Farm Ocean Forest soil, some of the richest and most nutritious soil you can buy for growing pot. Again, note that the nutrients are suggested to start being applied on day one. You have been over thinking. You should be actively feeding.
The colors do mean something. The green is the base nutrients... they must be used as suggested. The purple is the 2nd level of nutrition, and I strongly suggest getting those three solubles to add to the base nutes, as suggested. The orange stuff is all the extra stuff and money that you can throw at your plants if you really want to supercharge your grow. I never wanted to spend that much to grow pot, but if you do, there are the instructions on how to use all of their products without overloading your plants. I found that the green and purple sections allowed me to grow excellent pot... maybe not organic quality, but it was good stuff. I ran those specific nutrients for over 2 years as I got started in this hobby.
MidwestZest
Well-Known Member
I’m thinking you should try a nice heavy flush and start over with a correct pH of Of 6.0 6.5 There are products to break down the salts to ease the flushing of the roots, which should be always used with an adjusted pH level depending on the life stage of the plant. And I would try some molasses water and a phosphorus/nitrogen supplement maybe even incorporate a C02 Canister possibly
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- #53
Awesome answer. Thank you so much, I didn't know it was to be used with OF so that's very helpful info. And you are right it definitely seems I overthink it, which I tend to do alot, even not plant related lol. You are very knowledgeable and I think I may have found where I reach out to from now on if needed instead of hours and hours of looking up stuff online. I love this hobby and just want to be the best I can at it. Gimme something to be proud of at harvest. Thanks again Emilya you answered my questions, told me how to fix the problem, and gave me good advice moving forward. Many props to you and your knowledge..
Just one more question.. if I start a seedling at 12/12 from the start should I start at the week 5 schedule or go week by week on the chart still even tho it's not technically vegging?
You are the one who told me there is no need to pH my FFOF because it has Dolomite Lime & it pH's it for you.Hi @Floki88 and welcome to the forum!
I hate the popular advice to new growers that they don't have to adjust pH because it can be very misleading. Sure, in a buffered soil, you can get away with not setting your pH to the right point and your soil buffers will eventually get the nutes into the range where they are mobile and available to the plants. This however is the lazy girl's way of growing, taking shortcuts and letting the soil do all the work for you. For the entire period of time when your nutes/water are out of the proper range, being auto adjusted, your nutes are unavailable to the plant, or at least to a degree they are. Why inefficiently use your expensive nutes? Why not just set them into the range right at the get go, and get all that extra time when they are available to the plant? Sure, not adjusting your pH can work in certain situations... but is this advice for the masses, true every time? Nope, it isnt.
So trust your soil to be where it needs to be... there is no need to measure your soil's pH. If you make sure that every fluid that hits your soil is set to 6.3pH, you can do no better... for that is the optimal pH to come in at.
Now, back to your problem....
Where is the Tiger Bloom? Do you have a Fox Farms feeding chart? Go by that, flush when they tell you to, come in at the correct pH, and the Fox Farm system will work. To me, your plants look like they got or are getting too much light, and as said above, they have a potassium deficiency, if not also several others.
However, I continue to pH anyway because I don't trust Dolomite Lime to do this for me. I prefer to be on the safe side.
I do know there are several growers who don't pH at all; but I'm not one of them. I feel eventually, not pH-ing your nutes will throw your soils pH off so I just pH to 6.4 every time. I have no scientific facts to back that up. Just my thoughts on it.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Please find where I said that... I must have been hallucinating that day. To the best of my knowledge I have always said that in FFOF it is important to pH to 6.2... even lower than the normal recommendation of 6.3 pH. I think you might be confusing my words with someone else.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
I have no idea why you are trying to stunt out a plant by going 12/12 in veg, but whatever. The feeding chart has nothing to do with the lighting schedule. If you give the wrong nutrients before the plant is physically mature enough to handle them, problems will result. Go by the week on the chart.
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- #57
Well I have the widow on that light schedule and I popped others cuz I wanted more going and they are in the same tent, plus I'm impatient and wanna try the new strains I just got. So I germed 1 of each seed when I finally received them to flower out as well. When they are all done I'ma do more the recommended way of veg then flower. Cuz of shipping issues seeds came wayyyy later than planned so my supply is getting very minimal waiting on harvest. Just trying to supplement myself before putting 12 weeks of time into them.
GoogleGenie
Well-Known Member
Great White is great stuff. You can apply it directly to the roots (which i do when transplanting) or include it in your feed. It is extremely effective either way. And a little goes a long way.
GoogleGenie
Well-Known Member
Just my 5c - You're at where you're at so it will be interesting to see how it turns out - but I wouldn't suggest starting a seed on 12/12 in future - poor thing won't know if she's coming or going. If it does survive, you aren't going to get a lot from it either because it wouldn't have had a very healthy veg period (comparing to the 18-6).
Admittedly I've never done this myself, so i'm just going by what I understand about the plant lifecycle.
Distilled water is wet but has no micronutrients. No by checking the output it gives you runoff ph but it’s of no value, it’s fine sediments & chemical salts that come out in wash so it’s inflated number anyway. Heres where newbies hit the wall... they check runoff and go OMG and start jacking with input ph trying to get better number on output side. Leads nowhere good so don’t chase that rabbit.
To test soil ph you need a slurry test with distilled water, but if you started in FF theres not much sense in checking soil ph anyway, not their first rodeo. You would be better off using tap to water with or mix nutes from, let it sit out overnight or use vitamin c tablet to mitigate but check municipal water system website and they will tell you if it’s chlorine or chloramine if that’s your concern.
But agree by starting from seed in 12/12 you have ensured that you will get a few buds but they will be tiny and dry out to nothing. Start photoperiods on 24/0 then go to 18/6 but forget 12/12 from seed - that’s a huge waste.
To test soil ph you need a slurry test with distilled water, but if you started in FF theres not much sense in checking soil ph anyway, not their first rodeo. You would be better off using tap to water with or mix nutes from, let it sit out overnight or use vitamin c tablet to mitigate but check municipal water system website and they will tell you if it’s chlorine or chloramine if that’s your concern.
But agree by starting from seed in 12/12 you have ensured that you will get a few buds but they will be tiny and dry out to nothing. Start photoperiods on 24/0 then go to 18/6 but forget 12/12 from seed - that’s a huge waste.
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