SoGnotSOG321
Well-Known Member
Emilya has a fantastic watering schedule. Follow that.
Leaf cupping?
- Thread starter HarrySchleem69
- Start date
OldMedUser
Formerly Known as LabRat
What first pistils? You talking little pre-flowers? Those are normal at around 6 weeks for a photo plant but don't have anything to do with counting flowering days. For photos I start counting from the flip. Then I know how many days until harvest so when I grow clones from that plant I'll be able to schedule the finish better. With autos or outdoor plants I'd count from when it starts becoming more than pre-flowers and the heads are swelling. Once you've grown out a few you'll know what to look for. You should see it start happening a few days after flipping.
Some count from when flowers start forming for indoor plants too but that's a bit ambiguous as everyone's judgement is a bit different.
- Thread starter
- #23
HarrySchleem69
Well-Known Member
Yeah I guess now that I think about it, they eventually show up either way. I forced flowered my plant because for whatever reason it just wasn't showing its sex. I vegged it for about 6 weeks and still nothing but as soon as I flipped it to 12/12 I started seeing the calyxes pop up and eventually pistils. So you suggest counting from the actual flip to 12/12? I'm indoor, growing photo'sWhat first pistils? You talking little pre-flowers? Those are normal at around 6 weeks for a photo plant but don't have anything to do with counting flowering days. For photos I start counting from the flip. Then I know how many days until harvest so when I grow clones from that plant I'll be able to schedule the finish better. With autos or outdoor plants I'd count from when it starts becoming more than pre-flowers and the heads are swelling. Once you've grown out a few you'll know what to look for. You should see it start happening a few days after flipping.
Some count from when flowers start forming for indoor plants too but that's a bit ambiguous as everyone's judgement is a bit different.
OldMedUser
Formerly Known as LabRat
Did you go back to 18/6 light after seeing sex? Some plants won't show sex before the actual flip so when I'm growing a new strain of photo plants I'll usually take the tops off once they have 5 nodes or more then put the tops under 12/12 light to get them to start flowering so I can see what's up.
Also when I grow photos I like to get at couple of rooted clones going before flipping to flower just in case that plant is 'The One! I've missed out on keeping a few really good plants going because I didn't get clones and they didn't come back after re-vegging.
Like I said I count flowering time from the flip tho most seed sellers must count from when buds start forming because I've yet to hear anyone say their plants finished in the amount of time that is posted along with seed info. It's almost always a couple weeks longer than advertised.
- Thread starter
- #25
HarrySchleem69
Well-Known Member
Nah once I flipped it to 12/12 that's where it stayed lol. Im at around week 4 of flower nowDid you go back to 18/6 light after seeing sex? Some plants won't show sex before the actual flip so when I'm growing a new strain of photo plants I'll usually take the tops off once they have 5 nodes or more then put the tops under 12/12 light to get them to start flowering so I can see what's up.
Also when I grow photos I like to get at couple of rooted clones going before flipping to flower just in case that plant is 'The One! I've missed out on keeping a few really good plants going because I didn't get clones and they didn't come back after re-vegging.
Like I said I count flowering time from the flip tho most seed sellers must count from when buds start forming because I've yet to hear anyone say their plants finished in the amount of time that is posted along with seed info. It's almost always a couple weeks longer than advertised.
OldMedUser
Formerly Known as LabRat
Tomorrow will be 8 weeks for these Monkey Banana Kush. Ever since they went into flower the leaves have been going yellow and dropping off. It has to be the strain as they are both getting different nutes as a little experiment. The one on the left has been getting nothing but Greenleaf MegaCrop nutes including their P/K and K boosters. The one on the right is getting AN 3-part nutes with Big Bud.
Both are getting common things like Epsom Salts, Calmag and Carbo to feed the Myco they both get as well. Same soilless mix of ProMix HP with added Insect Frass and lobster/crab meal with DynoMyco mixed in.
I even tried giving them each a good feed of REMO nutes which caused a bit of nute burn but did not green up the leaves so it has to be how this strain grows. I've had ones like that in the past and there's literally nothing you can do to stop them turning yellow.
The buds are fattening up nicely tho so I won't be feeding them any more until the finish which looks like another week or more as all the trichs are still crystal clear. I have another one still in veg upstairs that will be getting cloned and tossed into flower as soon as these are done. They're under a 600W Hortilux Super HPS bulb on a digital ballast.
- Thread starter
- #27
HarrySchleem69
Well-Known Member
I hope to have yields like that in the future. Everything I've grown so far has been bag seed. Im still working on finishing the first grow i started. Other than what I'm assuming is too much nitrogen and overall nute burn, I got way more than I thought I would. This particular plant was topped, but when I went to lst the two tops, I completely broke one off so that grew all wonky and ugly, then I topped it again so it's been topped twice but I only have 2 tops lol the rest of the plant pretty much grew like it would have without any training. I started off with 4 plants from this grow, and this plant was the only one that was very close to death so I had the thought "if it dies, I have 3 more". Well those other 3 turned out to be male so I was left to try to salvage this plantTomorrow will be 8 weeks for these Monkey Banana Kush. Ever since they went into flower the leaves have been going yellow and dropping off. It has to be the strain as they are both getting different nutes as a little experiment. The one on the left has been getting nothing but Greenleaf MegaCrop nutes including their P/K and K boosters. The one on the right is getting AN 3-part nutes with Big Bud.
Both are getting common things like Epsom Salts, Calmag and Carbo to feed the Myco they both get as well. Same soilless mix of ProMix HP with added Insect Frass and lobster/crab meal with DynoMyco mixed in.
I even tried giving them each a good feed of REMO nutes which caused a bit of nute burn but did not green up the leaves so it has to be how this strain grows. I've had ones like that in the past and there's literally nothing you can do to stop them turning yellow.
The buds are fattening up nicely tho so I won't be feeding them any more until the finish which looks like another week or more as all the trichs are still crystal clear. I have another one still in veg upstairs that will be getting cloned and tossed into flower as soon as these are done. They're under a 600W Hortilux Super HPS bulb on a digital ballast.
OldMedUser
Formerly Known as LabRat
I looks healthy enough so good thing you kept at her. Looks like you ought to get a couple oz off her once she's done too if the buds are that big at 4 weeks.
I planted 4 supposedly fem autos outside this spring. Two each of two different strains and 3 of those went male on me. One each came up as autos and I collected pollen from them plus one I had indoors. Two grew as regular photo plants then about mid-Aug they started to flower and one was male so he got chopped down leaving me with just the one. She was a hi-CBD strain with less than 1%THC and got pretty big tho could have used at least a couple more weeks to finish off properly but winter came along. I built a small greenhouse around her and had a heater in there for cold nights when it got down to -12C/11F and even snowed a few inches. Warm sunny days tho until it went really cold for 2 weeks and I started chopping her down. As it all gets made into cocobudder for medicinal use I just trimmed them up quick and sealed the fresh buds in cans for the freezer. got 3/4 of a pound if dried as I had 3lbs wet and and multiplied by 0.25 to get a fairly accurate dry weight. Also did a Beam's Test on her and another CBD plant and both showed positive for CBD with the outside girl showing a stronger reaction.
Outside girl on the right. I'm sending a sample to a lab to get a potency test done so I know exactly what I'm working with. I have a nice clone/plant from her to grow more inside.
- Thread starter
- #29
HarrySchleem69
Well-Known Member
I'm hoping for a decent harvest. So what exactly am I looking at in that picture? Lol. Cbd medicine?I looks healthy enough so good thing you kept at her. Looks like you ought to get a couple oz off her once she's done too if the buds are that big at 4 weeks.
I planted 4 supposedly fem autos outside this spring. Two each of two different strains and 3 of those went male on me. One each came up as autos and I collected pollen from them plus one I had indoors. Two grew as regular photo plants then about mid-Aug they started to flower and one was male so he got chopped down leaving me with just the one. She was a hi-CBD strain with less than 1%THC and got pretty big tho could have used at least a couple more weeks to finish off properly but winter came along. I built a small greenhouse around her and had a heater in there for cold nights when it got down to -12C/11F and even snowed a few inches. Warm sunny days tho until it went really cold for 2 weeks and I started chopping her down. As it all gets made into cocobudder for medicinal use I just trimmed them up quick and sealed the fresh buds in cans for the freezer. got 3/4 of a pound if dried as I had 3lbs wet and and multiplied by 0.25 to get a fairly accurate dry weight. Also did a Beam's Test on her and another CBD plant and both showed positive for CBD with the outside girl showing a stronger reaction.
Outside girl on the right. I'm sending a sample to a lab to get a potency test done so I know exactly what I'm working with. I have a nice clone/plant from her to grow more inside.
OldMedUser
Formerly Known as LabRat
No it's a test you can do to see if your pot has any CBD in it. You use naphtha to extract the oils then add a few drops of a 5% sol'n of potassium hydroxide in ethanol. I used EverClear for the ethanol. My first try with it worked better. Didn't have all that dark oily stuff in it. I think my reagent is getting old or something. Good excuse to buy another bottle of EverClear and make a fresh smaller batch. Drink the excess.
I make sure to use the same amount of pot - 0.2g, solvent - 8ml and 5 drops of the KOH sol'n. Then the amount of redness in the colour change indicates amount of CBD compared to other other sample. Doesn't tell me how much CBD just that one is lower or higher than the other.
This was the first batch I did and used one with no known CBD as a control. Another showed no CBD but was supposed to be all CBD and almost no THC. She was going to be my momma to make CBD crosses with. Sure glad I found out she was a dud before getting into breeding with her.
HydroponicFireman
Well-Known Member
Know it. I highly doubt this is your issue though.
Check your deficiency chart, etc
OMG dont do that.
From Ed Rosenthalls Marijuana Growers Handbook:
- leaves curling under = overfertilization (I would put my $ on this) OR defiencies of Potassium and/or Copper (usually shows in flower which is why i assume over-fert)
I would try watering with several gallons of pure water and letting it all run off. Its easy and wont hurt anything and is a great starting point for troubleshooting.
- Thread starter
- #32
HarrySchleem69
Well-Known Member
Is it bad to foliar spray with Epsom salt? Lol
The Dawgg
Active Member
Harry Im a New Member but right off the bat i was told to use Fox Farm or Happy frog soil. Do not start seed directly in this soil as it will burn your plant i am told, so i started mine in half Fox Farm Ocean Forest and half ProMix BX but next time i am going to try the rockwool cube and then go into my Fox Farm soil, the soil has done wonders for my plants but I am just learning about Cal-Mag to bring green back into my plants. Anyways look into the above soils as i am told they are the plants best friend.
- Thread starter
- #34
HarrySchleem69
Well-Known Member
I've been debating for a long time on which soil i wanted to try out and it was between Promix HP, Happy Frog or ocean forest but for now I went with a jiffy brand organic soil and some worm castings thrown in. I have it growing right next to my plant in Miracle Grow so I can kind of do a comparison on the two. Im still on my first grow so I still have alot to learn. I learn the best by trial and error and if I make a mistake, I learn a ton by the things I do to correct said mistake
OldMedUser
Formerly Known as LabRat
Your Happy Frog, Ocean Forest etc are real soil blends and a great choice for organic growing.
ProMix HP, Sunshine Mix etc are soilless mediums well suited to growing with hydro nutes. Coco and plenty of others work the same. They can also be used to 'dilute' hot soils like the first mentioned so there's less likelihood of burning sprouts or small plants.
- Thread starter
- #36
HarrySchleem69
Well-Known Member
Ok what exactly makes something a "soiless" mix? What's the difference. To me they both look the same, they look like soil lolYour Happy Frog, Ocean Forest etc are real soil blends and a great choice for organic growing.
ProMix HP, Sunshine Mix etc are soilless mediums well suited to growing with hydro nutes. Coco and plenty of others work the same. They can also be used to 'dilute' hot soils like the first mentioned so there's less likelihood of burning sprouts or small plants.
- Thread starter
- #37
HarrySchleem69
Well-Known Member
Reason I ask is because the specific brand of "soil" i got, i read some people call it a soilless mix. It's jiffy seed starting mix. Thought it was worth a try since it was right there in front of me
OldMedUser
Formerly Known as LabRat
Soilless is just that. Without soil. ProMix uses peat moss and coco uses coconut husks. Soilless blends don't contain any nutrients so you have to start adding nutes right way once a sprout is up and starting to grow. A lot of guys say don't feed nutes for the first two weeks as the seed has enough food to support it for that long. Totally wrong if using a soilless blend but 2 weeks can be too soon if using something like Happy Frog.
Seed starting mix usually has some nutrients in it but isn't the best for actual growing in. Should say on the bag what's in it. Drainage is very important so if there isn't a lot then up to 30% perlite should be added to make it easier for roots to grow and oxygen to get in to keep them healthy and prevent root rot.
On the left is ProMix HP right out of the bale. Lots of perlite and loose texture as it's all peat moss. I can just fill a pot with it, add nutes and be growing. HP stands for High Porosity.
On the right is the same stuff after it's gone through that 1mm mesh screen. I use that for starting seeds or clones in as it's finer particles will have better contact with the seed surface or the stems to help keep them moister and take root. I wouldn't use that to grow plants in tho.
- Thread starter
- #39
HarrySchleem69
Well-Known Member
The jiffy brand soil i am using contains sphagnum peat moss, coco pith, lime for pH and compost. But I added worm castings, some bone meal and plenty of extra perlite this time as it barely had any. I figured by the time I'm deep into flower maybe the bone meal will be starting to break down enough for my plant to get some extra phosphorus as I just flipped this plant to flower after I transplanted it into this soil a few days agoSoilless is just that. Without soil. ProMix uses peat moss and coco uses coconut husks. Soilless blends don't contain any nutrients so you have to start adding nutes right way once a sprout is up and starting to grow. A lot of guys say don't feed nutes for the first two weeks as the seed has enough food to support it for that long. Totally wrong if using a soilless blend but 2 weeks can be too soon if using something like Happy Frog.
Seed starting mix usually has some nutrients in it but isn't the best for actual growing in. Should say on the bag what's in it. Drainage is very important so if there isn't a lot then up to 30% perlite should be added to make it easier for roots to grow and oxygen to get in to keep them healthy and prevent root rot.
On the left is ProMix HP right out of the bale. Lots of perlite and loose texture as it's all peat moss. I can just fill a pot with it, add nutes and be growing. HP stands for High Porosity.
On the right is the same stuff after it's gone through that 1mm mesh screen. I use that for starting seeds or clones in as it's finer particles will have better contact with the seed surface or the stems to help keep them moister and take root. I wouldn't use that to grow plants in tho.
Does this look like plenty of perlite or could I have added a little more?
And also, will the existing compost and the added bone meal and worm castings be enough to feed my plant what it needs or will I still have to feed it pretty regularly? I have some organic liquid nutes if she needs more but I don't know how to gauge the nute content or value in the amount of compost, worm castings and bone meal in the soil mix
OldMedUser
Formerly Known as LabRat
The jiffy brand soil i am using contains sphagnum peat moss, coco pith, lime for pH and compost. But I added worm castings, some bone meal and plenty of extra perlite this time as it barely had any. I figured by the time I'm deep into flower maybe the bone meal will be starting to break down enough for my plant to get some extra phosphorus as I just flipped this plant to flower after I transplanted it into this soil a few days ago
Does this look like plenty of perlite or could I have added a little more?
And also, will the existing compost and the added bone meal and worm castings be enough to feed my plant what it needs or will I still have to feed it pretty regularly? I have some organic liquid nutes if she needs more but I don't know how to gauge the nute content or value in the amount of compost, worm castings and bone meal in the soil mix
Then that stuff you're using is a soilless mix. It does have some nutrients in it from the compost it has but it won't be much. With the other stuff you've added you should get decent veg growth for a while but you're going to need to use some nutes and bone meal breaks down too slowly to be of much help right away. It needs to 'cook' in a soil mix for a couple of months before the nutrients become available to the plants. Having a healthy bio-herd is essential to good growing using organic nutes. The good bacteria and fungi break down the organics into salts the plants need to flourish.
It looks like a good mix and you'll have excellent drainage with the peat, coco and perlite. Water well, let dry then water well when the pot feels light. You want it to dry down a lot so it pulls in more oxygen.
Your first indication that the plant needs food is the older big fan leaves near the bottom will begin to yellow. You might notice slower growth too. Then feed a half strength dose of nutes at first to see how she likes it. Takes a while to be able to read your plants but after a bit you can tell when she's hungry before anything happens.
