This is the part I dont understand. I'm using organic nutrients and after they are mixed, I get a pH of 4. So, if I did not correct the Ph, I would be pouring acidic fluids into my soil, over time it will make that soil acidic. So, Is it not advisable to iron out the variables and bring the pH back up to 6.3 anyway.. it can only eliminate future problems, by making sure the soil stays in the happy zone.
I realise the organic nutrients are available to the roots at a lower/higher Ph, but it must be beneficial to keep the Ph above 6 and below 7.. please educate me, as there is something I'm not grasping.
Sorry to hijack your thread
@static123 , I will move my questioning to my thread, if it becomes a debate..
Hi Paul and thank you for asking this question.
First, lets define soil, if we can, and see if we can identify a happy place. The pH of the soil out of your backyard garden is going to be way different than that of a commercial "buffered" soil, designed with synthetic nutrient users in mind. Then look at the pH of coco-coir, happy anywhere from 5.5-6.8 pH. Then, look at a peat moss based soil, where the pH can easily be 3.8 - 4... do you see the difficulty in defining a happy zone? Where it is has a lot to do with the type of garden you are running.
Then, what happens when you have these low pH nutes in your system? The plant uses some of these nutes, and as it does so, the pH will begin to rise back toward the pH of the water... its not just nutes reacting against buffers, eventually wearing out the buffers so the base pH of the soil begins to drop. It actually would take quite a few waterings, way more than in the average 3 grows, to even begin to neutralize the buffers and make your soil more than 1 or 2 tenths of a point more acidic. If you were a wise gardener and added back some dolomite after each run to "sweeten" the soil, you would never deplete the buffers. I don't believe that watering a couple of times a week with acidic nutes is enough to dramatically "wreck" your soil... I submit that it would barely move the pH of the soil during the time of the grow.
Commercial buffered soil is usually adjusted to around 6.8 base pH... or at the high end of the soil suggested pH range. This suggestion is only for users of synthetic nutes that are chemically bonded with other nutes in a protective salt shell, so that they stay inert and not interact with each other in the bottle. When you put them in a water mix within their range of 6.2-6.8 pH, the salt bonds evaporate and the nutes become available to the plant. Commercial potting soil is designed so that you can water with the pH adjusted to the low end, or typically at 6.3 pH, and then the buffers and the nutes being used up will drift the pH of the wet soil toward the high end, toward that of the buffers and the neutrality of the water. This allows your soil system to drift through the entire range of 6.3 - 6.8, picking up the most nutes possible.
Organic nutrients are not made inert with chelation... they are available to the plant as soon as they are applied. PH is not a factor... the nutes do not need to be in any sort of pH range in order to work. Microbes don't care either, and nothing in this system requires that the base pH of your soil remains between 6 and 7. Until you turn your soil so base it resembles a salt flat, or so acidic it burns organic material, the pH of the medium really can't stop the organic feeding process. And again, factor in that as the nutes start getting used up, the acidic influence goes down and the pH starts to rise. The buffers in your soil also help neutralize out your system and before you know it, you are getting very close to the internal pH of the plant itself, 6.1 pH, without doing a thing. Bottom line, all the talk these days about soil pH has dramatically over amplified its influence in an organic grow. Now, if you are trying to run synthetic nutes in acidic soil, it could be challenging, same as trying a soil type grow in peat moss using artificial nutes... but it can be done. What you are doing by adjusting the pH isn't really harming anything, but it really isn't necessary to do so. Your happy zone is so wide it really isn't worth worrying about. If you can stick your hand in the liquid you are pouring on your plants without harm, all is good.
I can't thank you enough.. 
