I get that on my OGK all the time before I push it into flower. It never progresses beyond what you've shown... but that's my strain in my world.
LA's Daft New Multiple Test - With Remo Nutrients & Budmaster's New Tech!
I get that on my OGK all the time before I push it into flower. It never progresses beyond what you've shown... but that's my strain in my world.
Crowded roots can make a plant panic a bit. If she does hermie I wouldn't use those seeds, they will carry that hermaphroditic trait.
The Dealer
Well-Known Member
I'm thinking he would use the hermie to pollinate some of his other females.
#notafuckingchair 
Looks good buddy. Gonna be awesome in full flower.
Looks good buddy. Gonna be awesome in full flower.
Yes but this would still pass on the tendency to become hermaphroditic. Any plant can go hermie with stress, but some under normal conditions or with much less stress. The tendency is determined by its genetic makeup. This gets passed on to the next generation.
- Thread starter
- #1,066
Well Bollox is the word of the day today!
I was supposed to get a workman visit today, so last night I took everything down and packed my cupboard and other spots with all my plants and equipment. Well they cancelled.....! Also I've no idea when they're gonna come round now... Then add into the mix I'm still due a landlord visit...!
So my plants are fooked and its getting hard to work a way to continue my DeathStar on at my own place without being found out etc. Luckily I've a pal 3 mins walk around the corner, problem being Im back at work doing daft hours at mo. So I may be transporting my DeathStar by hand, running the streets with a huge cannabis plant lol. Infact I may move the majority of my girls round his and use that as my main base!
Its just the the thought of running the gauntlet in next few days whilst out of work hours, leaves me moving her in the morning in full daylight or at late night!
So everything is up in the air at the moment and all may come to a sticky end if I'm stopped when on my adventures!
I was supposed to get a workman visit today, so last night I took everything down and packed my cupboard and other spots with all my plants and equipment. Well they cancelled.....! Also I've no idea when they're gonna come round now... Then add into the mix I'm still due a landlord visit...!
So my plants are fooked and its getting hard to work a way to continue my DeathStar on at my own place without being found out etc. Luckily I've a pal 3 mins walk around the corner, problem being Im back at work doing daft hours at mo. So I may be transporting my DeathStar by hand, running the streets with a huge cannabis plant lol. Infact I may move the majority of my girls round his and use that as my main base!
Its just the the thought of running the gauntlet in next few days whilst out of work hours, leaves me moving her in the morning in full daylight or at late night!
So everything is up in the air at the moment and all may come to a sticky end if I'm stopped when on my adventures!
We will all send powerful waves of smoke and prayers your way. Just put on some Christmas ornaments and lights on the deathstar and hide it out in the open tied to the top of the car.
GL my friend. I transported a 10' plant once in the back of my truck back in Arkansas. I did mine the way early hours. But I was living kind of out in the country. I did have to drive past a sheriff officers house. Even if he was my cousin. He once gave me 3 DUI's in the same night. That was a long night. He kept taking my keys, but I had spares. Back in the late 70's, early 80's, DUI's weren't the big thing they are today. Besides, regardless what cops say, ' I have to do this', they can do what they want. They don't have to bust someone. Guess where you live, you have to be carefull with plants. Do so!!!!!! You've got to finish them girls out. GL&Keepem Green
What a crappy shell game, sorry LA! Hope it all goes well. Green blessings!
- Thread starter
- #1,070
Cheers my friends! 
So I've had one visit. I hid my plants up for a good few days! They suffered big stylie! The issue being I'm still due a proper landlord inspection lol. But can't kill my plants...! So banged everything back up nd tried to somewhat sort the DeathStar out lol, I've hours ahead of me before she's back to where I had her. She looks rough as foook to be fair after 5 days in a cramped cupboard! So bare with me folks as I'll get her back perfect in a few days or so!
What she looked like before....
Some pics of her in cupboard
What she looks like after a very quick go at organizing her up!
So I've had one visit
. I hid my plants up for a good few days! They suffered big stylie! The issue being I'm still due a proper landlord inspection lol. But can't kill my plants...! So banged everything back up nd tried to somewhat sort the DeathStar out lol, I've hours ahead of me before she's back to where I had her. She looks rough as foook to be fair after 5 days in a cramped cupboard! So bare with me folks as I'll get her back perfect in a few days or so!What she looked like before....
Some pics of her in cupboard
What she looks like after a very quick go at organizing her up!
great to hear you had one of the visits out of the way I was just asking on another thread if you had had a visit yet
The Death star I think is so big a strong she will recover very well
So onwards just one more an you are on the home run 
The Death star I think is so big a strong she will recover very well
So onwards just one more an you are on the home run - Thread starter
- #1,072
Well what's to be said
I've sorted my big girl out some, yet she's now drinking daft amounts and to be honest her root zone is a little small at 8 gal. So I may think about doing a change up on her, or I may say stuff it and just go with what I've got. It'll just make watering a twice daily event lol.
Then I'd like to talk about the dreaded mould !!!! Basically due to her being in the cupboard for so long some leaves died off and went all mouldy, now although removed I'm thinking spores have spread throughout her. So does anyone know a home made wash to spray her down with? Or does the SNS package have anything suitable?
Some pics
I've sorted my big girl out some, yet she's now drinking daft amounts and to be honest her root zone is a little small at 8 gal. So I may think about doing a change up on her, or I may say stuff it and just go with what I've got. It'll just make watering a twice daily event lol.
Then I'd like to talk about the dreaded mould !!!! Basically due to her being in the cupboard for so long some leaves died off and went all mouldy, now although removed I'm thinking spores have spread throughout her. So does anyone know a home made wash to spray her down with? Or does the SNS package have anything suitable?
Some pics
Kriaze
Well-Known Member
Hello LA, I can't help much personally in regards to bud rot, I had it once myself and had to strip the grow room but I know that there is a risk of it returning. As I won't be allowed to link to this particular article I will copy and paste it here so apologies for a wall of text. These are not my own writings and all due courtesy should go to Rambo who posted this elsewhere in 2011:
Description and Identification
Botrytis usually first attacks marijuana plants from the inside of the thick buds a few weeks before harvest. Because the infection begins near the stem, it can be difficult to detect until it has become well established. Often the first telltale sign of Botrytis is a single leaf protruding from the kola beginning to wither and dry out. Botrytis can be spotted by bending larger kola slightly to reveal the interior of the bud and stem. If your buds are infected you will see either a gray, white, or blue-green mold with hairs growing on the inside of the bud. In wet and humid conditions this will turn the bud to slime. In dryer climates the affects of botrytis appear brown or rust colored and will crumple when touched.
Botrytis can also attack leaves, stems, and seedlings causing damping off. It should be noted that even dried and stored marijuana is not safe from botrytis and should be inspected regularly. If an outbreak is left unchecked, botrytis can spread to all of your plants and entirely destroy your garden in as little as a week.
There are many genetic varieties of Botrytis cinerea but all persist through the winter months in the form of sclerotia or mycelia. In the spring, both the sclerotia and the myscelia produce conidiophores which grow millions of asexual spores (conidia) that are then spread by wind and rain.
Because of prevalence of Botrytis cinerea spores in nature, this fungus affects many species of plants besides marijuana. Vineyards are often infested with Botrytis where it can either rot bunches of grapes or change the grape chemistry, making them actually more suitable for certain types of wine. Botrytis also can cause significant damage to strawberry plants and tomatoes grown in greenhouses.
Prevention
In dealing with Botrytis, nothing could be truer than “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure”. While Botrytis is probably the most prolific mold found in marijuana buds, there are many different kinds of fungal outbreaks that could affect your garden. Luckily, most types of fungus thrive in the same environment, so in working to prevent one, you can effectively decrease the potential for other fungal outbreaks as well. Botrytis thrives in contaminated environments with humid air and poor circulations. A combination of cleanliness and climate control measures can be taken to decrease its prevalence.
Controlling Spores
Unfortunately botrytis spores are nearly impossible to completely eliminate from your grow room or garden. If you are growing marijuana indoors this begins with properly constructing your grow room.
If possible remove all carpet, curtains, fabric and trash from the grow room that could harbor botrytis spores. Cover wood or cement floors with linoleum that can be regularly mopped clean with at least 5% bleach and water solution. If you don’t glue the linoleum down, make sure that its edges are folded up around the baseboards of the room to prevent any spills from seeping under. Thoroughly wash the walls and ceiling with a bleach solution, and then repaint the room with a fungus resistant white paint. Covering floors with plastic or hanging plastic on the walls in not advised as this can trap moisture and create a fungus friendly environment.
Once all of your equipment is in place and wiped down with a bleach solution, treating the grow room with a high dose of ozone can help kill any remaining spores. When the room is filled with plants, you’ll need to make sure dead leaves and debris are never allowed to remain in the room. I’ve been in more than one grow room where the grower removed foliage but left it in the room’s garbage can to rot and spread mold spores.
For those growing marijuana outdoors, remove as much dead foliage from the garden as possible. Keep any grass or ground-cover as short as possible so that it does not trap moisture or prevent air circulation. If possible cover the ground around the plants with landscape cloth to prevent weeds and maximize airflow.
Humidity, Ventilation, and Circulation
In addition to keeping the grow room or garden as free of spores as possible, you must also maintain an environment healthy for marijuana plants, but inhospitable to botrytis. Fungi that affect marijuana plants thrive in conditions with overly wet and soggy soil, humid air, and poor air circulation. These problems can generally all be fixed through adjusting your watering schedule and proper ventilation.
It is very important to maintain a humidity level in your grow room under 50% and a temperature that is above 70 degrees F. To accomplish this, pay careful attention to your watering schedule and make sure you are not over watering your plants. Extra water in the room or pooling up in your garden will evaporate causing the humidity to increase. Warm air holds more water than cool air, so try to water only after the sun is up, or lights have come on and your room has reached its normal daytime temperature. This way the majority of the water evaporation takes place during the warm period which will not increase the humidity of the grow room nearly as much.
In addition to over watering, another common mistake for indoor gardens and greenhouses is using larger containers and more growing medium then necessary. While you certainly don’t want your plants to be root-bound, too much soil means extra expense on nutrients, extra water and extra humidity from evaporation.
CO2 generators produce more than just CO2, they also produce heat and water vapor. The heat will help keep the room above 70 degrees, but the water vapor increases humidity that must be dealt with. Make sure you are only running your CO2 generator during the daylight hours since this is the only time the plants benefit from CO2 anyway.
If you are running a sealed grow room or the air outside is above 50% humidity a dehumidifier can quickly and inexpensively remove extra moisture from the air while helping to heat the room. A 30 to 65 pint per day dehumidifier is capable of maintaining a grow room the size of a normal bedroom and is available for under $200. These dehumidifiers are easy to use but must be emptied daily, create some heat and generally draw between 400 and 700 watts.
If your grow room uses ventilation to keep it cool, make sure your fan is strong enough to quickly remove moist air sufficiently. If the air outside is above 50% humidity, you may need to stop drawing in outside air and use sealed light hoods and a small air conditioning unit to keep the rooms humidity low and the air within the correct temperature range. Make sure any outside air that is drawn into the room is filtered to remove as many outside contaminants as possible.
In addition to the airflow required to keep the room at the proper temperature and humidity levels, you must also maintain airflow through the plants themselves. Oscillating circulation fans will prevent pockets of moisture and help move air through the plants foliage and across the surface of the growing medium. An added benefit of circulation fans is that this airflow will also strengthen the plants stems so you won’t require as much staking towards harvest. Use selective pruning to remove any unnecessary foliage from the lower parts of the plant and avoid over crowding the plants.
Sprays
As a preventative measure plants can be treated with foliar sprays. These can be either a non organic chemical based fungicide, an organic fungicide containing copper or sulfur, or they can be inoculated with foliar sprays containing beneficial fungi.
Chemical and copper or sulfur based fungicides can’t be used along with biological sprays because they kill fungi indiscriminately and will effectively wipe out your beneficial fungi along with the harmful parasite. While often effective, the drawback is that chemical or copper and sulfur bases sprays is they can only be used during a vegetative period. These organic and non-organic chemical sprays can be extremely harmful if smoked, especially for medical marijuana patients, and should never be used after your plants begin to flower.
Biological based foliar sprays containing Gliocladium and Trichoderma, or products like Serenade that contain Bacillus subtilis can be used to both prevent and treat outbreaks of botrytis all the way up until harvest. These species are also fungi’s but colonize plants in a symbiotic relationship protecting them against fugal attacks.
Treatment
Once an outbreak of Botrytis is discovered it is imperative that you take action immediately. If the conditions are right, an outbreak can spread and wipe out an entire garden of buds in a matter of days. Sterilize your pruning shears in alcohol and cut the bud at least one inch below the affected area. You must be very gentle while removing the bud to prevent spreading the spores. Make sure not to let the bud, your hands or the shears touch any other buds until they have been sterilized.
Once every kola has been inspected, and the damaged areas are removed, drop the humidity in the room as low as possible and make sure the temperature does not fall below 70 degrees. If the humidity can be maintained below 50%, continue to treat with biological foliar sprays all the way until harvest. If the outbreak is already widespread, consider cutting your losses and harvesting the garden early.
Health Problems
Botrytis cinerea may cause “winegrower’s lung”, which is a rare form of hypersensitivity pneumonitis. To a layperson this means an allergic reaction in the lung and airways that affects some who are predisposed. We can’t avoid mold spores, they are literally everywhere, and we smoke some in every joint without concern. Some medical marijuana patients however have compromised immune systems or respiratory problems and can become quite sick from smoking marijuana with high spore content. If your garden has had a severe outbreak of botrytis or any other fungus, it is imperative that you remove all infected bud and have your marijuana lab tested before offering it to patients
I hope it is of some help and I'd also like to say that whatever problems that plant has had it still looks fantastic! The Death Star is almost upon us, can you grow some X-Wing Fighters to the side? lol
Description and Identification
Botrytis usually first attacks marijuana plants from the inside of the thick buds a few weeks before harvest. Because the infection begins near the stem, it can be difficult to detect until it has become well established. Often the first telltale sign of Botrytis is a single leaf protruding from the kola beginning to wither and dry out. Botrytis can be spotted by bending larger kola slightly to reveal the interior of the bud and stem. If your buds are infected you will see either a gray, white, or blue-green mold with hairs growing on the inside of the bud. In wet and humid conditions this will turn the bud to slime. In dryer climates the affects of botrytis appear brown or rust colored and will crumple when touched.
Botrytis can also attack leaves, stems, and seedlings causing damping off. It should be noted that even dried and stored marijuana is not safe from botrytis and should be inspected regularly. If an outbreak is left unchecked, botrytis can spread to all of your plants and entirely destroy your garden in as little as a week.
There are many genetic varieties of Botrytis cinerea but all persist through the winter months in the form of sclerotia or mycelia. In the spring, both the sclerotia and the myscelia produce conidiophores which grow millions of asexual spores (conidia) that are then spread by wind and rain.
Because of prevalence of Botrytis cinerea spores in nature, this fungus affects many species of plants besides marijuana. Vineyards are often infested with Botrytis where it can either rot bunches of grapes or change the grape chemistry, making them actually more suitable for certain types of wine. Botrytis also can cause significant damage to strawberry plants and tomatoes grown in greenhouses.
Prevention
In dealing with Botrytis, nothing could be truer than “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure”. While Botrytis is probably the most prolific mold found in marijuana buds, there are many different kinds of fungal outbreaks that could affect your garden. Luckily, most types of fungus thrive in the same environment, so in working to prevent one, you can effectively decrease the potential for other fungal outbreaks as well. Botrytis thrives in contaminated environments with humid air and poor circulations. A combination of cleanliness and climate control measures can be taken to decrease its prevalence.
Controlling Spores
Unfortunately botrytis spores are nearly impossible to completely eliminate from your grow room or garden. If you are growing marijuana indoors this begins with properly constructing your grow room.
If possible remove all carpet, curtains, fabric and trash from the grow room that could harbor botrytis spores. Cover wood or cement floors with linoleum that can be regularly mopped clean with at least 5% bleach and water solution. If you don’t glue the linoleum down, make sure that its edges are folded up around the baseboards of the room to prevent any spills from seeping under. Thoroughly wash the walls and ceiling with a bleach solution, and then repaint the room with a fungus resistant white paint. Covering floors with plastic or hanging plastic on the walls in not advised as this can trap moisture and create a fungus friendly environment.
Once all of your equipment is in place and wiped down with a bleach solution, treating the grow room with a high dose of ozone can help kill any remaining spores. When the room is filled with plants, you’ll need to make sure dead leaves and debris are never allowed to remain in the room. I’ve been in more than one grow room where the grower removed foliage but left it in the room’s garbage can to rot and spread mold spores.
For those growing marijuana outdoors, remove as much dead foliage from the garden as possible. Keep any grass or ground-cover as short as possible so that it does not trap moisture or prevent air circulation. If possible cover the ground around the plants with landscape cloth to prevent weeds and maximize airflow.
Humidity, Ventilation, and Circulation
In addition to keeping the grow room or garden as free of spores as possible, you must also maintain an environment healthy for marijuana plants, but inhospitable to botrytis. Fungi that affect marijuana plants thrive in conditions with overly wet and soggy soil, humid air, and poor air circulation. These problems can generally all be fixed through adjusting your watering schedule and proper ventilation.
It is very important to maintain a humidity level in your grow room under 50% and a temperature that is above 70 degrees F. To accomplish this, pay careful attention to your watering schedule and make sure you are not over watering your plants. Extra water in the room or pooling up in your garden will evaporate causing the humidity to increase. Warm air holds more water than cool air, so try to water only after the sun is up, or lights have come on and your room has reached its normal daytime temperature. This way the majority of the water evaporation takes place during the warm period which will not increase the humidity of the grow room nearly as much.
In addition to over watering, another common mistake for indoor gardens and greenhouses is using larger containers and more growing medium then necessary. While you certainly don’t want your plants to be root-bound, too much soil means extra expense on nutrients, extra water and extra humidity from evaporation.
CO2 generators produce more than just CO2, they also produce heat and water vapor. The heat will help keep the room above 70 degrees, but the water vapor increases humidity that must be dealt with. Make sure you are only running your CO2 generator during the daylight hours since this is the only time the plants benefit from CO2 anyway.
If you are running a sealed grow room or the air outside is above 50% humidity a dehumidifier can quickly and inexpensively remove extra moisture from the air while helping to heat the room. A 30 to 65 pint per day dehumidifier is capable of maintaining a grow room the size of a normal bedroom and is available for under $200. These dehumidifiers are easy to use but must be emptied daily, create some heat and generally draw between 400 and 700 watts.
If your grow room uses ventilation to keep it cool, make sure your fan is strong enough to quickly remove moist air sufficiently. If the air outside is above 50% humidity, you may need to stop drawing in outside air and use sealed light hoods and a small air conditioning unit to keep the rooms humidity low and the air within the correct temperature range. Make sure any outside air that is drawn into the room is filtered to remove as many outside contaminants as possible.
In addition to the airflow required to keep the room at the proper temperature and humidity levels, you must also maintain airflow through the plants themselves. Oscillating circulation fans will prevent pockets of moisture and help move air through the plants foliage and across the surface of the growing medium. An added benefit of circulation fans is that this airflow will also strengthen the plants stems so you won’t require as much staking towards harvest. Use selective pruning to remove any unnecessary foliage from the lower parts of the plant and avoid over crowding the plants.
Sprays
As a preventative measure plants can be treated with foliar sprays. These can be either a non organic chemical based fungicide, an organic fungicide containing copper or sulfur, or they can be inoculated with foliar sprays containing beneficial fungi.
Chemical and copper or sulfur based fungicides can’t be used along with biological sprays because they kill fungi indiscriminately and will effectively wipe out your beneficial fungi along with the harmful parasite. While often effective, the drawback is that chemical or copper and sulfur bases sprays is they can only be used during a vegetative period. These organic and non-organic chemical sprays can be extremely harmful if smoked, especially for medical marijuana patients, and should never be used after your plants begin to flower.
Biological based foliar sprays containing Gliocladium and Trichoderma, or products like Serenade that contain Bacillus subtilis can be used to both prevent and treat outbreaks of botrytis all the way up until harvest. These species are also fungi’s but colonize plants in a symbiotic relationship protecting them against fugal attacks.
Treatment
Once an outbreak of Botrytis is discovered it is imperative that you take action immediately. If the conditions are right, an outbreak can spread and wipe out an entire garden of buds in a matter of days. Sterilize your pruning shears in alcohol and cut the bud at least one inch below the affected area. You must be very gentle while removing the bud to prevent spreading the spores. Make sure not to let the bud, your hands or the shears touch any other buds until they have been sterilized.
Once every kola has been inspected, and the damaged areas are removed, drop the humidity in the room as low as possible and make sure the temperature does not fall below 70 degrees. If the humidity can be maintained below 50%, continue to treat with biological foliar sprays all the way until harvest. If the outbreak is already widespread, consider cutting your losses and harvesting the garden early.
Health Problems
Botrytis cinerea may cause “winegrower’s lung”, which is a rare form of hypersensitivity pneumonitis. To a layperson this means an allergic reaction in the lung and airways that affects some who are predisposed. We can’t avoid mold spores, they are literally everywhere, and we smoke some in every joint without concern. Some medical marijuana patients however have compromised immune systems or respiratory problems and can become quite sick from smoking marijuana with high spore content. If your garden has had a severe outbreak of botrytis or any other fungus, it is imperative that you remove all infected bud and have your marijuana lab tested before offering it to patients
I hope it is of some help and I'd also like to say that whatever problems that plant has had it still looks fantastic! The Death Star is almost upon us, can you grow some X-Wing Fighters to the side? lol
- Thread starter
- #1,074
OK folks well my big girl ain't looking like no chair anymore!
She is really really taking shape now
Maybe look into Actinovate AG. Or try the Green Cleaner, I know it works great on PM and great on bugs. PM washes off. The Actinovate's ingredient is Steptomyces lydicus which is a bacteria that feeds on dead matter and molds on the leaves or in the soil.
Actinovate - YouTube
GL and Keepem Green
Actinovate - YouTube
GL and Keepem Green
- Thread starter
- #1,077
Woody your a star!
Sns-244 is good for powder mould.
DankestBuds42
New Member
Hey LA, man that's one packed cupboard 
Just like Tetris haha. Hope all your inspections go well.
Just like Tetris haha. Hope all your inspections go well.- Thread starter
- #1,080
Well folks things in LA land be a bit buggered at present lol.
I'm still waiting on my landlord visit and am running out of time to be honest! Then throw into the mix I got laid off from work yesterday and my writing etc for my supposed canna based job doesn't seem to be happening!???
So yep life's a bit crap presently, but we motor onwards regardless
A cpl pics
I'm still waiting on my landlord visit and am running out of time to be honest! Then throw into the mix I got laid off from work yesterday and my writing etc for my supposed canna based job doesn't seem to be happening!???
So yep life's a bit crap presently, but we motor onwards regardless
A cpl pics